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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings USAFS4's Avatar
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    Aiming headlights? They don't move during Output test?

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    I've done my research and have replaced my lights and ballasts. I have VAG and have tried the realignment procedure. My car is lowered. Is my problem poss related to the level sensors? If so where might I find a diagram to locate these? If the output test does nothing (no movement), could it be something else?
    Car: B5 S4 STG III (Santorin Blue)
    Going: VAST Rs4 fueling, Ko4's w/Meth, Kevlar clutch w/lwfw, Piggies, Borla, TBB, 710dv's
    Stopping: Cayene 350 BBK
    Cornering: H&R coilovers, sway bars f/r, Stern adjustable upper arms, 4:1 center diff
    Wheels: 19" RS4 DTM reps

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    2 things it could be:

    1) the manual levelers are 'broken' meaning the headlights are facing the ground and the plastic tab used to move them up/down is broken.
    2) your headlights don't use the 'auto-levelers' and need to be leveled manually using the white plastic adjustable pieces.

    The first thing you need to check is whether you're run the auto-levelers, I'm not. These are what allow you to adjust using the VAG tool. When you replaced
    your ballast do you remember a little black box that connected to the projector?
    APR
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings USAFS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quattro_silver View Post
    2 things it could be:

    1) the manual levelers are 'broken' meaning the headlights are facing the ground and the plastic tab used to move them up/down is broken.
    2) your headlights don't use the 'auto-levelers' and need to be leveled manually using the white plastic adjustable pieces.

    The first thing you need to check is whether you're run the auto-levelers, I'm not. These are what allow you to adjust using the VAG tool. When you replaced
    your ballast do you remember a little black box that connected to the projector?
    I do not remember a black box. I definately can hear motors activating during output test. The headlights are aiming down. I don't see how I could have broken any connections to the projectors during install. As for my manual knobs they don't do much. If the connections are busted is it possible to fix?
    Car: B5 S4 STG III (Santorin Blue)
    Going: VAST Rs4 fueling, Ko4's w/Meth, Kevlar clutch w/lwfw, Piggies, Borla, TBB, 710dv's
    Stopping: Cayene 350 BBK
    Cornering: H&R coilovers, sway bars f/r, Stern adjustable upper arms, 4:1 center diff
    Wheels: 19" RS4 DTM reps

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    If the connectors are busted you will need new headlight housings (same thing happened to me when I over adjusted mine). The thing you should do is pull 1 headlight and check to see if the black box (see picture) is in your headlight housings. If it's not then the VAG will not work to adjust them.

    red arrow points to auto leveler:


    Now look at the white tab that you can stick a hex key into (top-right of pic). That's one adjuster, each headlight has 2. You want to check inside the housing to see if the part it connects to is broken. Based on this post you should be able to determine if it's one of those 2.
    APR
    Vogtland Coilovers
    BBS CH black/lip
    Piggies/Neuspeed G2
    E-Codes + DDM 55w 6k
    SRP pedals
    Hawk HPS + Adams slotted
    Kicker CompVT

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings USAFS4's Avatar
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    Thanks. That is exactly what I needed.
    Car: B5 S4 STG III (Santorin Blue)
    Going: VAST Rs4 fueling, Ko4's w/Meth, Kevlar clutch w/lwfw, Piggies, Borla, TBB, 710dv's
    Stopping: Cayene 350 BBK
    Cornering: H&R coilovers, sway bars f/r, Stern adjustable upper arms, 4:1 center diff
    Wheels: 19" RS4 DTM reps

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings jibberjive's Avatar
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    Where those white connectors connect inside can be epoxied if they're broken. One side is bowl-shaped, and the other is thinner and pointy-er. Make sure you can get the light so that you can rest it in a position where the weight of the inside projector hosing puts its weight pushing the two sides together, fill up the bowl side with epoxy and let it sit for a day.
    ** GT2860R-7 S4 Build Log--
    FOR SALE (click me):
    --FIKSE FM10 - 3pc LIGHTWEIGHT WHEELS - 17x9 et55 & 17X8 et57 - 5x130 - WORK ON AUDI W/ ADAPTER**

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    --BROKEN SPIDER HOSES

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings USAFS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quattro_silver View Post
    If the connectors are busted you will need new headlight housings (same thing happened to me when I over adjusted mine). The thing you should do is pull 1 headlight and check to see if the black box (see picture) is in your headlight housings. If it's not then the VAG will not work to adjust them.

    red arrow points to auto leveler:


    Now look at the white tab that you can stick a hex key into (top-right of pic). That's one adjuster, each headlight has 2. You want to check inside the housing to see if the part it connects to is broken. Based on this post you should be able to determine if it's one of those 2.
    So tabs aren't broken. But drivers side is bending upward. It's like the whole housing that it connects to is bent. The black box adjuster connection (green with ball joint) was out of its housing connection. Im not sure how it pulled loose but I managed to use the manual adjustments to get it a little seated again. But I am unable to ratchet it down any further. I'm guessing either the black box is extended fully so the manual adjustment just gets tighter, so I can't tighten it all the way. My passenger side was seated fine and I could tighten the manual adjustment all the way. What gives?

    What's supposed to the move? Why does my housing seem bent and won't budge? I have pics how do I attach them? This is driving me crazy, nothing is noticeably broken .
    Car: B5 S4 STG III (Santorin Blue)
    Going: VAST Rs4 fueling, Ko4's w/Meth, Kevlar clutch w/lwfw, Piggies, Borla, TBB, 710dv's
    Stopping: Cayene 350 BBK
    Cornering: H&R coilovers, sway bars f/r, Stern adjustable upper arms, 4:1 center diff
    Wheels: 19" RS4 DTM reps

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USAFS4 View Post
    So tabs aren't broken. But drivers side is bending upward. It's like the whole housing that it connects to is bent. The black box adjuster connection (green with ball joint) was out of its housing connection. Im not sure how it pulled loose but I managed to use the manual adjustments to get it a little seated again. But I am unable to ratchet it down any further. I'm guessing either the black box is extended fully so the manual adjustment just gets tighter, so I can't tighten it all the way. My passenger side was seated fine and I could tighten the manual adjustment all the way. What gives?

    What's supposed to the move? Why does my housing seem bent and won't budge? I have pics how do I attach them? This is driving me crazy, nothing is noticeably broken .
    I'm guessing you don't have the green ball joint in properly. If you search the forums you can find out how to remove/install the levelers (it's a bit tricky). That's basically all you need to do though, then you can adjust the lights.
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    BBS CH black/lip
    Piggies/Neuspeed G2
    E-Codes + DDM 55w 6k
    SRP pedals
    Hawk HPS + Adams slotted
    Kicker CompVT

  9. #9
    Senior Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by jibberjive View Post
    Where those white connectors connect inside can be epoxied if they're broken. One side is bowl-shaped, and the other is thinner and pointy-er. Make sure you can get the light so that you can rest it in a position where the weight of the inside projector hosing puts its weight pushing the two sides together, fill up the bowl side with epoxy and let it sit for a day.
    Is there anyway you post a pic of what you mean? or a write up? I have this exact same problem, and trying to save myself from having to buy new headlights. THANKS in advance!

  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings USAFS4's Avatar
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    Does the green rod from the auto-leveler push in & pull out to adjust the lights? If so, then if it is stuck in its fully extended position, wouldn't that mean it was point up since the rod connects to the base of the projector housing?

    I can't find any write-ups on auto-leveler removal. It seems to be permanently connected? I don't think it was designed to be removed? Unless you have to break it.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings USAFS4's Avatar
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    "Depending on how low your car is you may want to adjust (bend) the suspension sensor arm relative to your height. When lowered and the suspension is compressed it can put the the range sensor into too-far reading, then error. Basically it tries to adjust past the end of what the leveling motor is able to do in one direction. And if you've done a "basic settings' on the range sensor while lowered it'll be all fubar because it 'knows' the setting is wrong, and wont even reset.
    You could check measuring blocks...or try a different chassis code adaptation if you have real VCDS."

    Could this make my auto-leveler extend too far? My car is lowered about 1.25".
    Car: B5 S4 STG III (Santorin Blue)
    Going: VAST Rs4 fueling, Ko4's w/Meth, Kevlar clutch w/lwfw, Piggies, Borla, TBB, 710dv's
    Stopping: Cayene 350 BBK
    Cornering: H&R coilovers, sway bars f/r, Stern adjustable upper arms, 4:1 center diff
    Wheels: 19" RS4 DTM reps



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