B6 3.0 Auto Tiptronic vibration at D drive & Reverse issues-help

[coolblue]

Short story, I own B6 3.0 AUTO Tiptronic.
Because there is a lot vibration at idle (mainly when stop at traffic light on D drive, reverse even worse) right after all new front control arms replaced and coilovers installed (mechanic remove the subframe to install them). So I had all mounts replaced (All brand new-**-034 motor mounts-street, OEM Snub & OEM Transmission mounts).

Adjusted the all the mounts (centered snub mount bracket) while engine is running and transimission at D drive position with all the bolts are hand tight then tighten all bolts after couple mins of running. Went to 3 different mechanics including independent Audi specialist, adjusted more than 5 times But still having a lot vibration at D drive at stop. It doesn't have the shaking vibration all the time, usually it's around 60% chance getting the shaking vibration and the rest of the times are very quiet/smooth (same as at neutral position). There will be less chance of getting the vibration when the temperature is below 0 degree Celsius (32F), In the warmer temperature around 10 C (50F), there will be like 8 out 10 time got the shaking vibration at D drive. Also, there will be less vibration if shift it to neutral position and back to D drive.

Hate the vibration, can someone help me out in solving/point me out what cause the vibration problems and what are the solutions. And my last try will be increase the RPM to 820 instead of 780-790.

Thanks in advance

[meistah]

I have the exact same problem, can't figure it out. Idles fine in neutral. One mechanic theorized that there is a problem with the transmission where it doesn't properly disengage when you are at a stop in D, hence the idle. For now I just shift to N whenever I'm stopped... horrible solution but I see no other alternative.

[Charles.waite]

Sounds like the torque converter isn't fully disengaging when at idle. I would look into getting the Transmission fluid changed. Its worth a shot. One way to tell if its the TC or the mounts: find a flat parking lot. put it in D and let off the brake. Let the car idle up to its max speed in 1st gear at idle (5 mph or so). If the vibrations go away, the source is probably Torque Converter/Drivetrain related. If the vibration stays the same rolling at idle, its probably the mounts.

[coolblue]

Sounds like the torque converter isn't fully disengaging when at idle. I would look into getting the Transmission fluid changed. Its worth a shot. One way to tell if its the TC or the mounts: find a flat parking lot. put it in D and let off the brake. Let the car idle up to its max speed in 1st gear at idle (5 mph or so). If the vibrations go away, the source is probably Torque Converter/Drivetrain related. If the vibration stays the same rolling at idle, its probably the mounts.

Cabin vibrations usually go away once off the brake at D drive. So mostly Torque Converter/Drivetrain related problems, how did it happen/what causes it because there was no vibration before the front control arms/coils were installed.
Thinking of increase the RPM to around 820-830, hope it will settle down a bit. Then next is Transmission fluid change.

Need some more thoughts/inputs:
diagnosticator, a4darkness or Anyone else please!

[coolblue]

Anyone-help please? Thanks.

[big_c]

Try the trans fluid change. Blauparts kit is on sale with free shipping, $115. I just ordered mine and will be doing it later this week.

[thismyafor]

got the same problem. asked about changing the tranny fluid, mechanic said audi oem tranny fluid is "life time"? -_-

[RLB6]

You need to vag-com your car. You are probably idling differently from what is being requested. It happens and it quite noticeable in auto trannies due to the TC. Check your idle first and adjust as needed then proceed with checking the mounts.

BTW, the ATF is in no way "lifetime". You should always drain and refill when replacing the filter.

[big_c]

You need to vag-com your car. You are probably idling differently from what is being requested. It happens and it quite noticeable in auto trannies due to the TC. Check your idle first and adjust as needed then proceed with checking the mounts.

BTW, the ATF is in no way "lifetime". You should always drain and refill when replacing the filter.

Can you please describe the procedure for the vag com idling? Can it happen with VCDS lite?

[RLB6]

IN VAG-COM, you access the engine module -> measuring blocks. the engine speed is in block 001 I believe.

[meistah]

I remember having a problem on my old mitsu eclipse with a bad idle in gear and fluctuating idle... it was fixed by upping the idle rpm a bit. Never connected that until you mentioned this just now... I'll give that a try. At least its free!

[coolblue]

You need to vag-com your car. You are probably idling differently from what is being requested. It happens and it quite noticeable in auto trannies due to the TC. Check your idle first and adjust as needed then proceed with checking the mounts.

BTW, the ATF is in no way "lifetime". You should always drain and refill when replacing the filter.

Do you know what's the normal idling rpm for 3.0 v6 auto tip. Recheck and readjust all the mounts couple of times from three different mechanics, still nobody can make it right. Wait till the weather warm up a bit, Audi dealer will be my next try then increase the rpm and trans fluids change to be follow if the Audi dealer can't fix the vibrations.

Do you suggest to do complete trans fluids change which replace the trans belly pan gasket/filter together with the ATF fluids OR just simple drain and refill the ATF couple times?

[big_c]

I will be doing my trans fluid change tomorrow with the blauparts kit. From all the research ive been doing on this topic- everyone reccomends dropping the pan and changing the filter as well. One drain and fill should yield a replacement of 71% of the fluid. Another drain and fill means that 90% of your fluid is new.

[diagnosticator]

It's the 034 engine mounts you had installed. My 1.8T idles smooth on OEM mounts. The temp of the mounts makes a big difference, warmer is better. The idle speed is critical too. Most newer A4s have the adaptation channels in the ECU locked, but you can try using Unitronics ME7 app, same as lemmiwinks. The adaptation channel value is not in RPM it is shown in values between 128 and 135 each "1" is 10 RPM change in RPM. Changing the idle speed +/- 10, 20, or 30 RPM will make a difference in the vibration level. The torque converter on our 5 speed tips does not disengage at idle speed in D, so, vibration is transfered to the motor mounts with the trans in gear, due to the drag of the stalled torque converter when at a stop.

[RLB6]

but you can try using Unitronics ME7 app, same as lemmiwinks. The adaptation channel value is not in RPM it is shown in values between 128 and 135 each "1" is 10 RPM change in RPM. Changing the idle speed +/- 10, 20, or 30 RPM will make a difference in the vibration level.

The only issue I've been having with using lemmiwinks is that it's designed to use a serial cable, not a USB. I've found different forums talking about how to do it but no luck in getting my own to work successfully.

[RLB6]

nevermind, found the Uni version of it: http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/mai...i_setting.html

[diagnosticator]

The only issue I've been having with using lemmiwinks is that it's designed to use a serial cable, not a USB. I've found different forums talking about how to do it but no luck in getting my own to work successfully.

Unitronics for ME7 works with a USB cable.

[coolblue]

It's the 034 engine mounts you had installed. My 1.8T idles smooth on OEM mounts. The temp of the mounts makes a big difference, warmer is better. The idle speed is critical too. Most newer A4s have the adaptation channels in the ECU locked, but you can try using Unitronics ME7 app, same as lemmiwinks. The adaptation channel value is not in RPM it is shown in values between 128 and 135 each "1" is 10 RPM change in RPM. Changing the idle speed +/- 10, 20, or 30 RPM will make a difference in the vibration level. The torque converter on our 5 speed tips does not disengage at idle speed in D, so, vibration is transfered to the motor mounts with the trans in gear, due to the drag of the stalled torque converter when at a stop.

So you don't think is my oem Snub mount causing the vibration, I used to had the apikol snub mount installed which I gave me even more vibration on every stop. With the oem snub mount, the vibration actually much less and doesn't happen all the time. Also, less chance of getting a vibration when it's below 32F temp but will have more chance of getting the vibrations in the warmer temperature around 10 C (50F). There also will be less vibration if shift it to neutral position and back to D drive.

**The temp of the mounts makes a big difference, warmer is better** What do you mean warmer is better? They did all the mounts adjustment after car warmed up at d drive.
My current idling rpm is around 780-790, the vibration will settle down quite a bit if rev it up and hold it to around 820 rpm when there was a shaking vibration at D drive at stop. So Unitronics ME7 app & lemmiwinks are the only softwares that can change our idle speed (will either software works on my 02 audi a4 3.0) and where can it be downloaded (links or PM me please)?

Should I try to change the idle speed first or do the trans fluids change? And for the trans fluids change, you always recommend to do just drain and refill the ATF 2-3 times istead of doing a a complete trans fluids change which replace the trans belly pan gasket/filter together with the ATF fluids, correct?

Let me know

Thanks

[diagnosticator]

Idle vibration is very sensitive to the snub mount. The snub mount should not be touching the bracket at hot idle speed in D. This is why I reduced the diameter of my snub on a belt sander, made a big difference reducing vibration. The mounts only get fully warmed up after driving the car on the highway for awhile. The 034 mounts are not as compliant as the OEM mounts and will transmit more vibration than the OEM mounts. For a street driven only car, I don't recommend the 034 engine mounts.

I suggest changing the trans fluid for reasons other than the problem with vibration, as changing the fluid won't effect that.

Your '02 ECU should not have the ECU adaptation channels locked. Use UniSettings for ME7 with a USB cable, to adjust the adaptation channel 01 idle speed value UP as needed to smooth out the idle, AFTER driving on the highway. Using VCDS, you can change the 01 adaptation channel value as well. Each step of +/- 1 in the stored value changes the idle speed 10 RPM. As "RLB6" posted, download UniSettings for ME7 here:http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/mai...i_setting.html Using UniSettings, the value shown for RPM is in Rev/1*min.

Regarding multiple fluid changes, after replacing the fluid and filter, pan gasket, for the subsequent fluid changes, within 5000 miles or so, just drain the pan then refill agian. No need to replace the filter each time after the first fluid/filter change. A second fluid change within 5000 miles should be sufficient, unless the original fluid was extremely contaminated, then a third fluid change/drain-refill is recommended.

[coolblue]

Thanks for your help-diagnosticator.
Hate the idle vibration, should I replace the 034 motor mounts with OEM mounts (very expensive) or OEM replacement mounts (B5 S4 Febi Bilstein Motor Mounts -many members are using them) first?

[MikeWire]

Hey coolblue, did you adjust your snub with the car on ramps, or not on a level surface? When I put my snub mount on, I adjusted it with my car on ramps, which shifted the weight of the motor, and when level I had vibrations at idle. I re-adjusted it with the car flat and level, and it's all good, maybe just a bit more vibration than OEM mounts, but nothing to complain about. I am running the Apikol snub and the RS4 (034 solid) mounts. I drive daily, and only had issues when I had the snub adjusted incorrectly. Keep in min I have the 1.8, but the 3.0 should be similar if not the same.

I found my mount fit will into the adjustment cup with just a bit of play for adjustment, IMO more than enough room to get proper adjustment. But if you don't have much room to adjust, do what diagnosticator suggested and take a bit off with a belt sander.

For a quick write up on a TIP fluid change, I have a thread I did a quick write up for the 01V: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-and-filter-ew

[coolblue]

All mounts were adjusted on the hoist couple times by three different mechanics. My snub bracket current position is on the lowest setting which is the lesser vibration of all the attempts, there were more vibration and much more chance of getting vibration when the snub bracket is at the center position.
If the vibration is causing by the 034 engine mounts-street D, shouldn't I be getting the consistent vibration all the time? But why am I getting the vibration on and off and it's very quiet and smooth when there is no vibration.
I would love to sand down the snub mount a bit, unfortunately, it's very difficult with the 3.0 model-I will need to remove the front bumper and other parts in order to do so.

Hey coolblue, did you adjust your snub with the car on ramps, or not on a level surface? When I put my snub mount on, I adjusted it with my car on ramps, which shifted the weight of the motor, and when level I had vibrations at idle. I re-adjusted it with the car flat and level, and it's all good, maybe just a bit more vibration than OEM mounts, but nothing to complain about. I am running the Apikol snub and the RS4 (034 solid) mounts. I drive daily, and only had issues when I had the snub adjusted incorrectly. Keep in min I have the 1.8, but the 3.0 should be similar if not the same.

I found my mount fit will into the adjustment cup with just a bit of play for adjustment, IMO more than enough room to get proper adjustment. But if you don't have much room to adjust, do what diagnosticator suggested and take a bit off with a belt sander.

For a quick write up on a TIP fluid change, I have a thread I did a quick write up for the 01V: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-and-filter-ew

[msharifi]

Short story, I own B6 3.0 AUTO Tiptronic.
Because there is a lot vibration at idle (mainly when stop at traffic light on D drive, reverse even worse) right after all new front control arms replaced and coilovers installed (mechanic remove the subframe to install them). So I had all mounts replaced (All brand new-**-034 motor mounts-street, OEM Snub & OEM Transmission mounts).

Adjusted the all the mounts (centered snub mount bracket) while engine is running and transimission at D drive position with all the bolts are hand tight then tighten all bolts after couple mins of running. Went to 3 different mechanics including independent Audi specialist, adjusted more than 5 times But still having a lot vibration at D drive at stop. It doesn't have the shaking vibration all the time, usually it's around 60% chance getting the shaking vibration and the rest of the times are very quiet/smooth (same as at neutral position). There will be less chance of getting the vibration when the temperature is below 0 degree Celsius (32F), In the warmer temperature around 10 C (50F), there will be like 8 out 10 time got the shaking vibration at D drive. Also, there will be less vibration if shift it to neutral position and back to D drive.

Hate the vibration, can someone help me out in solving/point me out what cause the vibration problems and what are the solutions. And my last try will be increase the RPM to 820 instead of 780-790.

Thanks in advance

I have same issue and I can't find out what the cause is but I can tell you days its no vibration or little some days a lot like broken mounts.. How much does it cost to change the tranny fluid? is there a filter on the transmission?

[Charles.waite]

5 or so quarts of $15 fluid and a $20 filter. Not bad at all.

Compare that to 6 liters of $45-50 fluid and a $20 filter for my b7...

All in all not that much.

[big_c]

I have same issue and I can't find out what the cause is but I can tell you days its no vibration or little some days a lot like broken mounts.. How much does it cost to change the tranny fluid? is there a filter on the transmission?

$115 shipped from blauparts and a few hours. lots of shop towels lol.

Yes, there is a filter attached to the trans by 2 T30 screws.

[msharifi]

$115 shipped from blauparts and a few hours. lots of shop towels lol.

Yes, there is a filter attached to the trans by 2 T30 screws.

What brand is the fluid?

[big_c]

Meyle (German) ATF III-H Synthetic. Its a pinkish color. Has marked VW 052 162 complaint, which is on the recommended lubricants list on the ZF 5HP 19FLA trans booklet.

[msharifi]

Is it true that you need to use VAG com to monitor the transmission temp while adding fluid?

[big_c]

Yes, to have a proper fill , you need to have the fluid just dripping out when the trans is at 40*C.

While filling the trans, be sure to keep pumping fluid in while the fill plug is open, and cycling through the gears. This ensures that fluid is pumped through all the passages in the valve body and gears. The exact procedure is linked in my ATF thread.

[diagnosticator]

Meyle (German) ATF III-H Synthetic. Its a pinkish color. Has marked VW 052 162 complaint, which is on the recommended lubricants list on the ZF 5HP 19FLA trans booklet.

I would not use that. There is no way to know the original source of the Meyle ATF, Meyle does not manufacture ATF, "comliant" is not the same as "equivalnet", and OEM is not tinted. Instead, use only Pentosin ATF-1, 100% synthetic, and is included on the ZF Approved Fluids Listing, and exceeds OEM specs. ATF-1 is not tinted, like the OEM fluid. With the Pentosin, there is no question of who manufactured the AFT.

[big_c]

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=J1D2100-02

http://opc.meyle.com/opc/productDeta...4_014+019+2400

That is the fluid that it comes with. Its full synthetic with G052 162 as reference. I will call blau parts to make sure I have an acceptable fluid in my trans.

Also, FYI, I found that the A1, A2 suffix refers to the size of the bottle the fluid comes in. A1 is one pint, A2 is one Liter.

[ANDROID184]

Idle vibration is very sensitive to the snub mount. The snub mount should not be touching the bracket at hot idle speed in D. This is why I reduced the diameter of my snub on a belt sander, made a big difference reducing vibration. The mounts only get fully warmed up after driving the car on the highway for awhile. The 034 mounts are not as compliant as the OEM mounts and will transmit more vibration than the OEM mounts. For a street driven only car, I don't recommend the 034 engine mounts.

I suggest changing the trans fluid for reasons other than the problem with vibration, as changing the fluid won't effect that.

Your '02 ECU should not have the ECU adaptation channels locked. Use UniSettings for ME7 with a USB cable, to adjust the adaptation channel 01 idle speed value UP as needed to smooth out the idle, AFTER driving on the highway. Using VCDS, you can change the 01 adaptation channel value as well. Each step of +/- 1 in the stored value changes the idle speed 10 RPM. As "RLB6" posted, download UniSettings for ME7 here:http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/mai...i_setting.html Using UniSettings, the value shown for RPM is in Rev/1*min.

Regarding multiple fluid changes, after replacing the fluid and filter, pan gasket, for the subsequent fluid changes, within 5000 miles or so, just drain the pan then refill agian. No need to replace the filter each time after the first fluid/filter change. A second fluid change within 5000 miles should be sufficient, unless the original fluid was extremely contaminated, then a third fluid change/drain-refill is recommended.

Im with this guy, I had the same problems befoe and after a trans replacement by audi....so im leaning towards not fluid unless its low. Which I know mine isnt.
Im gonna follow diagnosticator and sand my snub a little. If that doesnt work then, I'll try and up the idle speed a few clicks. I saw a thread few years back on
here where the op said thats what he had to do to get rid of vibrations

[DoubleATO]

top off your tranny fluid. mine was acting funny. turns out i have a leak and i was a quart low. now the thing shifts perfectly

[big_c]

top off your tranny fluid. mine was acting funny. turns out i have a leak and i was a quart low. now the thing shifts perfectly

Better yet, just change the fluid and filter. Its only $115 for the kit. After 92k , my fluid was black with metallic particles in the bottom of the pan, magnets were coated with the sludge.

[MikeWire]

Better yet, just change the fluid and filter. Its only $115 for the kit. After 92k , my fluid was black with metallic particles in the bottom of the pan, magnets were coated with the sludge.

Yeah same here, direct from the link I posted...comparisons from clean vs. dirty (NOTE: the brand and type of fluid used in the service):

New vs. old fluid:


New vs. old filter:


New filter installed:


Dirty trans pan:


Clean trans pan & clean magnets and gasket:

[msharifi]

Yeah same here, direct from the link I posted...comparisons from clean vs. dirty (NOTE: the brand and type of fluid used in the service):

Since you already changed the fluid did you use VAG COM If so can you give the run down? does it require 2 person one monitoring while second person pumps and checks the level? My car has 113K never changed the fluid or the filter.

Thanks

[MikeWire]

Since you already changed the fluid did you use VAG COM If so can you give the run down? does it require 2 person one monitoring while second person pumps and checks the level? My car has 113K never changed the fluid or the filter.

Thanks

Yes, of course VCDS is needed and I did use it. I work alone, with no helper. Basically, after doing the filter and pan service, I refilled with about 4 liters of ATF. Started the car, shifted into all gears and back into P. Then start up VCDS and go to:

[Select]
[02 - Auto Trans]
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Set group to "005" (May be group 002 or 004 in some vehicles - again check the Repair Manual).
[Go!]
The value in field 1 should be ATF temp in °C.

Watch until the temp gets to 35C, then slowly add ATF until the fluid overflows the fill hole. Put the cap back on and that's it, done.

[msharifi]

Do you add fluid while the car is on after looking at the temp 35C?

[Charles.waite]

Do you add fluid while the car is on after looking at the temp 35C?

You know theres a DIY on this right? It answers all of your questions...

SEARCH!

[msharifi]

You know theres a DIY on this right? It answers all of your questions...

SEARCH!

Whats your problem? I know there is a damn SEARCH but asking someone already done it recently doesn't hurt at all! Everyone does something differently... I can give you names of DIY people have done and it doesn't look the same. If you dont like reading a post move on!