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  1. #1
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Under Car clunking noise..

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    Haven't yet had a chance to lift the car, and I dont know how long this has been going on, but I was doing some city driving today with my windows down and every time I would come to a stop slowly I'd hear this clunking sound from what appears to be the passenger side front suspension.

    Not sure if its a bad bushing in a control arm, or a loose brake caliper...No braking issues.

    No noise occurs from vertical movement, if I go over a speed bump lets say, no noise.

    But only horizontal movement causes the noise, I dont hear it on acceleration at all, but only on deceleration.

    It's like if I were to have a round magnet on a rod, and it only exceeded the magnets holding ability upon deceleration and the magnet moves to hit the other end...thats the sort of sound.

    Not a high pitch sound like aluminum, or a plastic sound at all, definitely sounds like its steel on steel. However my understanding of the under car and suspension on these cars is highly limited.

    I didnt check my snub mount to make sure that it wasnt that moving, its not. it's very tight.

    Anyone have some insight to what this may be? If anyone's owned a mid 90's ranger, it almost sounds like when a radius arm bushing goes out on those.

    My concern is definitely that it is a steel on steel damage and I may be ovaling out a mount for my suspension...


    For the record, its an '03 B6 A4 1.8T Quattro
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    I have a similar clunk I just noticed the other day when I brake hard, I get a clunk right as i come to a complete stop.

    I'm thinking its a control arm bushing of some sort.
    -CP
    USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - 034 Rear Swaybar (Soft Setting) and Endlinks - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  3. #3
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    I have a similar clunk I just noticed the other day when I brake hard, I get a clunk right as i come to a complete stop.

    I'm thinking its a control arm bushing of some sort.
    I've never noticed it until today...which is strange, havent done anything different...I did let my baby mom drive the car today....maybe a bad idea...I'll have to get under there and start shaking stuff around...Its just strange that it doesnt happen on the Z Axis....only X....

    No side to side noise, no up and down noise, no noise with a combination of both, and no noise under cornering like a wheel bearing would make....only front to back....

    I'm almost fearful its the plunge-joint on my drive shaft...but it SOUNDS like passenger front...but who knows where it's really coming from...sound has a way of fucking with you when you're in the driver seat.
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Might be time to do your control arms.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    I'm trying to search for this thread....one of the members was having a bitch time with his coilover swap I think, and he showed the complete front and rear suspension in 1 piece removed from the car, it was a great picture I was hoping to find to understand and pin point the sound....but cant find the damn thread.

    I'd think it would be a gradual wear of the control arm bushings, not good one day and blown the next...
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    I heard a loud pop in the parking lot pulling out from work, going straight, not turning. I got out and saw a little plastic $2 liquor bottle thing in my path, assumed that was the pop and headed home. Then I heard the clunk under braking. I doubt they were related, but who knows if the pop was something important or just the stupid plastic liquor bottle...
    -CP
    USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - 034 Rear Swaybar (Soft Setting) and Endlinks - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  7. #7
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    See...mine is consistent, if I put on the brakes from a decent speed it doesnt happen, if I brake hard i dont think I hear it, but if Im braking normally and slowly coming to stop, right about 20 mph and down I hear it...I heard it under 5mph coming through my apartment parking lot...never heard this noise until today.

    didnt hear it this morning, just recently..in this afternoon...not sure what it is, and cant find the damn thread Im looking for!!

    The thread has a picture of the complete front removed with the drive shaft still in the hub assembly...anyone know which thread Im talkin about or can find it?
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by B6A4Dave View Post
    I'm trying to search for this thread....one of the members was having a bitch time with his coilover swap I think, and he showed the complete front and rear suspension in 1 piece removed from the car, it was a great picture I was hoping to find to understand and pin point the sound....but cant find the damn thread.

    I'd think it would be a gradual wear of the control arm bushings, not good one day and blown the next...

    I think it was A4Darkness

  9. #9
    Senior Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    One thing to check is if your tires have the same amount of wear side to side. I had to shuffle around mine in order to "mostly" match the mismatched tires I had on. They were all the same tire, just a 3-4 year spread on manufacture date and wear was all over the map. After matching fronts and the backs from side to side (ie front right and front left are matched, rear right and rear left are matched) the clunking in my rear diff that happened every time I let out the clutch in gear from a stop finally went away.

    Its probably not what you're experiencing, but its a thought...
    -CP
    USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - 034 Rear Swaybar (Soft Setting) and Endlinks - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  10. #10
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Well, not what I was looking for, but works .

    Based on my understanding of the geometry of the suspension, In this picture...if yo look at the frame cradle..follow it to where it meets the brake heat shielding on the driver side rotor. You can se this large round rubber bushing...I believe its that but on the other side.


    Looks very similar to where a radius arm bushing would be...if this thing had radius arms.

    Im not looking at the large round one that goes on the Z Axis, but the one at a 45* angle shown in the aluminum..Ill try and find a better pic and check mine..


    as for my tires, They're very new Eagle GT's and the wear appears to be very even


    The further forward giant bushing in front of the axle, that is my prime suspect right now...but Im not sure if thats it...just based on the movement of the suspension and the conditions which the sound occurs...I think thats it...Have to get it in the air and see...I wonder how I can duplicate it....

    I wonder if its just loose enough to move back and forth by hand..
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    If i think i know what you talking about that's a lower control arm.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Lower curved control Arm



    Lower straight Control Arm

    FWIW, the bushings on both my lower straight arms appear to be cracked or torn.
    -CP
    USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - 034 Rear Swaybar (Soft Setting) and Endlinks - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  13. #13
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Yup!!! Thats it!!

    I THINK thats what it is.....I'll try shaking it and finding out..



    The big one at the end of the curve, Not the ball joint


    Is the FCP Groton group but for the master front suspension kit going on?

    Can anyone speak to the quality of the pieces?
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings boy412's Avatar
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    I will. I bought that kit and couldn't be more pleased. I already had Meyle HD outer tie rod ends...so I omitted those from the order, but the rest of the pieces have been working out great. I really wish I had done this sooner. It really is like having a new car...
    ~Eric
    '03 Ming Blue A4 Avant 1.8TQM | GTRS | Maestro | Spec Stage III+ | Vogtlant GT's | JHM trio | STE PPD | OEM+

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    '09 CC VR6 Sport
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    Quote Originally Posted by boy412 View Post
    I will. I bought that kit and couldn't be more pleased. I already had Meyle HD outer tie rod ends...so I omitted those from the order, but the rest of the pieces have been working out great. I really wish I had done this sooner. It really is like having a new car...
    Ditto. did the same thing last July. Kit was cheap in price but no issues whatsoever. Well worth it. Clicky click

  16. #16
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post4740705

    Thoughts as to Option 1?
    13 Piece Control Arm Kit Contains:
    4 Lower Control Arms
    4 Upper S4 Upgrade Control Arms
    2 Tie Rod Ends (Rubber Dampening Shaft)
    2 Updated Sway Bar Links
    Hardware Kit
    Audizine Group Buy Cost $194.95 (Shipped Free to US Lower 48)

    Appears to be a good deal...and should fix my problem?

    If not, at least stiffen it up.

    Which kit is my question now...I dont see much of a difference
    Which option kit did you end up getting?

    Option 1: (SEE PICTURE BELOW)
    13 Piece Control Arm Kit Contains:
    4 Lower Control Arms
    4 Upper S4 Upgrade Control Arms
    2 Tie Rod Ends (Rubber Dampening Shaft)
    2 Updated Sway Bar Links
    Hardware Kit

    Option 2: (SEE PICTURE BELOW)
    13 Piece Control Arm Kit Contains:
    4 Lower Control Arms
    4 Upper S4 Upgrade Control Arms
    2 Complete Tie Rod Assemblies (Rubber Dampening Shaft)
    2 Updated Sway Bar Links
    Hardware Kit

    Option 3: (SEE PICTURE BELOW)
    13 Piece Control Arm Kit Contains:
    4 Lower Control Arms
    4 Upper S4 Upgrade Control Arms
    2 Complete Tie Rod Assemblies (Updated Full Metal Version)
    2 Updated Sway Bar Links
    Hardware Kit

    Could someone please explain the major differences?
    This is what I mean about spending money on maintenance items...I was so about to file my taxes and get a test pipe, injectors, tune, etc....but now. I'd much rather have my car happy and restore my cornering to optimal
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    The difference is the tie rods.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    I see one is an updated metal design....but what is the major difference? are the OE or the replacement ones in Option 1 prone to failing or something?

    Sorry for my ignorance...new to this car.
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rausch View Post
    The difference is the tie rods.
    Also don't miss this further down in the thread: So, if you are looking for a B6/B7 kit, just add $40 to the price of the three options.

    Still well worth it.

  20. #20
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Also don't miss this further down in the thread: So, if you are looking for a B6/B7 kit, just add $40 to the price of the three options.

    Still well worth it.


    Ah...didnt see that...well, so its $230'ish for the Option 1...not a bad deal considering to replace the arm itself from Audi is like $227 (ECS Tuning's price...so add $8687894789645 in shipping)
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    The rubber dampened tie rods are the OEM design and they limit steering feedback and will eventually fail as the inner rubber dmpener degrades. The metal version is solid and thus more steering feedback (enthusiasts prefer it but the majority of people wouldn't according to some bean counter at Audi so we get the crappy rubber ones) and much more durability.

    Also option 1 has just the tie rod ends while 2 And 3 are complete assemblies w/ inners.
    -CP
    USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - 034 Rear Swaybar (Soft Setting) and Endlinks - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  22. #22
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    The rubber dampened tie rods are the OEM design and they limit steering feedback and will eventually fail as the inner rubber dmpener degrades. The metal version is solid and thus more steering feedback (enthusiasts prefer it but the majority of people wouldn't according to some bean counter at Audi so we get the crappy rubber ones) and much more durability.

    Also option 1 has just the tie rod ends while 2 And 3 are complete assemblies w/ inners.
    Thanks Charles! I appreciate the info!

    So really, the Option 3 is the best way to go to get any kind of feedback from the road past our super light already responseless power steering...and the guys at audi decided drivers dont want the vibration...makes sense....why else would be have a 24.5lbs dual mass retarded flywheel...
    '03 Crystal Blue A4 1.8T 180k and still tickin - ECS Snub Nose - AFE Filter in Modded Airbox - Test Pipe - B5 S4 Front Brakes - B7 A4 Rear Brakes - Forge DV.



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