Performance Upgrade Suggestions

[tayone415]

I have a 02 A4 1.8T

Only Performance Mods so far...

APR stage 1
Upgraded DV
KO3 to KO3s with different internals (NOT sure what exactly I bought it used)
Resonator delete
Intake filter/Breather filter


I'm thinking of getting reflashed to either stage 1+ that requires injectors but I heard the HPFP should be replaced to avoid fuel cut and a FMIC to prevent heat soak while stage 2 that only requires a TP or HFC. But my timing still sucks so was also thinking of getting a adjustable cam gear but don't know how that works after an ecu re-map or getting the sprint power booster converter from ecs tunning?

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...tle/ES1896878/




Any ideas or advice? Thanks in advance.

BTW this is a daily driver and I CAN'T afford or do BT so that's not an option.

[Matt Devo]

you have a B6, no HPFP to worry about. Get a HFC and the stage 2+ flash (larger injectors) and you'll be set for a while. Don't waste your time with adjustable cam gears or sprint boosters (which just screws up the throttle response)

[Pothole]

http://www.ecodetuning.com/shop/cart...t_detail&p=564

best place ive found to get he injectors, 1+ is a very fun set up


and a text pipe or HFC will only make you more happy, I am currently 2+ on APR with a 034 HFC and it is night and day feel over a stock 1.8t

[Matt Devo]

http://www.ecodetuning.com/shop/cart...t_detail&p=564

best place ive found to get he injectors, 1+ is a very fun set up


and a text pipe or HFC will only make you more happy, I am currently 2+ on APR with a 034 HFC and it is night and day feel over a stock 1.8t

these work just as well: http://ecodetuning.com/shop/cart.php..._detail&p=1229

[tayone415]

http://www.ecodetuning.com/shop/cart...t_detail&p=564

best place ive found to get he injectors, 1+ is a very fun set up


and a text pipe or HFC will only make you more happy, I am currently 2+ on APR with a 034 HFC and it is night and day feel over a stock 1.8t

How long have you had the stage 2+ because from stock to stage 1 I been told the same and I did notice a change but after 2-3 days it felt boring and slow again.

[tayone415]

you have a B6, no HPFP to worry about. Get a HFC and the stage 2+ flash (larger injectors) and you'll be set for a while. Don't waste your time with adjustable cam gears or sprint boosters (which just screws up the throttle response)

So the b6's don't suffer from fuel cut with larger injectors?

[vteckiller2000]

How long have you had the stage 2+ because from stock to stage 1 I been told the same and I did notice a change but after 2-3 days it felt boring and slow again.

No way, I have had mine 2+ for a couple thousand miles and it feels much faster than stage 1. You should do injectors and a hfc/testpipe and drive it that way until the mod bug bites again.

[vteckiller2000]

So the b6's don't suffer from fuel cut with larger injectors?

No. If you have a fuel cut feeling, you have a problem which needs correcting.

[tayone415]

No way, I have had mine 2+ for a couple thousand miles and it feels much faster than stage 1. You should do injectors and a hfc/testpipe and drive it that way until the mod bug bites again.

Sounds good I'm just to impatient to save up for both the larger injectors and the TP/HFC. Which would give higher gains? APR's website estimates the stage1+ but not the stage 2 or 2+ and I'm not worried about paying 2X to the reflash the car since it will only cost me $60 for each software upgrade

[vteckiller2000]

Sounds good I'm just to impatient to save up for both the larger injectors and the TP/HFC. Which would give higher gains? APR's website estimates the stage1+ but not the stage 2 or 2+ and I'm not worried about paying 2X to the reflash the car since it will only cost me $60 for each upgrade

The reflashes for 1+, 2 or 2+ are no charge from your apr dealer. The big injector file will make it feel meatier everywhere, and the hfc/tp will free up the top end, help spool and is a good start to a full 2.5" or 3" exhaust.

[tayone415]

The reflashes for 1+, 2 or 2+ are no charge from your apr dealer. The big injector file will make it feel meatier everywhere, and the hfc/tp will free up the top end, help spool and is a good start to a full 2.5" or 3" exhaust.

034 motorsports charge a $60 shop fee for the software upgrades between stages...at the same time I'm trying to build more of a sleeper because of the area I live in, I was thinking about getting an electronic cut out but as far as spooling I'm boosting @2000rpms and by 3000-3-5000 I hit 15-18 sometimes 19 psi by then. But my mpg is at around 12-15. How much decrease did you see after the larger injectors and apr file?

[vteckiller2000]

034 motorsports charge a $60 shop fee for the software upgrades between stages...at the same time I'm trying to build more of a sleeper because of the area I live in, I was thinking about getting an electronic cut out but as far as spooling I'm boosting @2000rpms and by 3000-3-5000 I hit 15-18 sometimes 19 psi by then. But my mpg is at around 12-15. How much decrease did you see after the larger injectors and apr file?

That is BS, my local tuner told me the flashed should be no charge per APR. I actually saw an increase in mileage, but I don't dog it everywhere. With the stage 2+ flash I see 20-21 lbs spike and 10 psi at 6500 rpm.

I get 25-35 in town depending on my route and how many lights I hit and around 30 on the highway. I have seen as high as 40 in town, but that was hypermiling HARD.

[tayone415]

That is BS, my local tuner told me the flashed should be no charge per APR. I actually saw an increase in mileage, but I don't dog it everywhere. With the stage 2+ flash I see 20-21 lbs spike and 10 psi at 6500 rpm.

I get 25-35 in town depending on my route and how many lights I hit and around 30 on the highway. I have seen as high as 40 in town, but that was hypermiling HARD.

APR doesn't charge for the new files but 034 motorsports charge a $60 shop fee each time. What other mods do you have besides the obvious tune and required larger fuel injectors and did you go TP or HFC?

[tayone415]

Any opinions on getting an electronic cut out on 2.5 or 3" piping to stock exhaust?

[vteckiller2000]

APR doesn't charge for the new files but 034 motorsports charge a $60 shop fee each time. What other mods do you have besides the obvious tune and required larger fuel injectors and did you go TP or HFC?

That is really weak. Powerwise mine is on the stock k03 turbo, 93 octane Stage 2+ APR tune with TT225 injectors and test pipe, APR TIP, Borla 140100 with the front pipe section (2.12") cut out and replaced with 2.5", Techtonics 2.5" downpipe, and 710N DV. I also have a foam air filter element in the stock box and I have a FMIC going on this saturday.

Any opinions on getting an electronic cut out on 2.5 or 3" piping to stock exhaust?

Do it, I am going to do an e-cutout on my downpipe as soon as I recover from the clutch/flywheel/FMIC purchase...


If you are concerned with exhaust being loud, there are a couple of quieter systems like my Borla, the Techtonics (which uses Borla muffs) or the Milltek. None are cheap.
Mine, for reference:

[tayone415]

That is really weak. Powerwise mine is on the stock k03 turbo, 93 octane Stage 2+ APR tune with TT225 injectors and test pipe, APR TIP, Borla 140100 with the front pipe section (2.12") cut out and replaced with 2.5", Techtonics 2.5" downpipe, and 710N DV. I also have a foam air filter element in the stock box and I have a FMIC going on this saturday.

I'm in BS California we only have 91 octane and a TP is from what I read is about a $2-2.5k fine and a federal fine or something but 034 motorsports said the difference between their TP and HFC is only 2-3HP



Do it, I am going to do an e-cutout on my downpipe as soon as I recover from the clutch/flywheel/FMIC purchase...


If you are concerned with exhaust being loud, there are a couple of quieter systems like my Borla, the Techtonics (which uses Borla muffs) or the Milltek. None are cheap.
Mine, for reference:

Miltek is way too expensive, Borla I can get a decent price on but I'm going for more of a sleeper this time, it's my daily driver.

[tayone415]

Any opinions on getting either the Forge 004 splitter or 007 or 008 DV and a MBC?

[vteckiller2000]

Any opinions on getting either the Forge 004 splitter or 007 or 009 DV and a MBC?

Use a DV. MBC is not very friendly with our car's relatively smart computer and tiny insta-spool turbo. Much better setup and more daily friendly to get a tune for injectors. The MBC won't do much if you already have a tune and the stock n75 is far better at modulating boost.

[EErie B6]

Miltek is way too expensive, Borla I can get a decent price on but I'm going for more of a sleeper this time, it's my daily driver.

It does not matter what you do, as long as you are on the stock turbo, it's always going to be a sleeper... You just get to choose noisy or quiet.

[tayone415]

It does not matter what you do, as long as you are on the stock turbo, it's always going to be a sleeper... You just get to choose noisy or quiet.

I want something quiet. I love coming from behind ricers trying to showoff then passing them up or driving side by side letting them hear the sound of the DV and watching them back down. I might just get a electronic cut out.

[B6A4Dave]

I want something quiet. I love coming from behind ricers trying to showoff then passing them up or driving side by side letting them hear the sound of the DV and watching them back down. I might just get a electronic cut out.

you can hear your DV??????

I can only hear mine in 2nd if I really listen for it...

[tayone415]

you can hear your DV??????

I can only hear mine in 2nd if I really listen for it...

After getting rid of the restrictive stock air intake and just installing a cone filter and breather I can hear it in all gears and revving it on a stand still and in reverse actually in my car it's a kinda too loud at times.

[EErie B6]

I want something quiet. I love coming from behind ricers trying to showoff then passing them up or driving side by side letting them hear the sound of the DV and watching them back down. I might just get a electronic cut out.

since when do ricers back down?
...and the moment you try running one, its going to smoke you.

you asked if the difference from 1 to 1+ is going to be boring in 2-3 days, the answer is yes... and in the grand scheme of things you will still be slow. Most minivans on the road today will still be able to put you away.

Not sure if you know this or not, this is just kind of an FYI...
the only difference from stage 1 to 2 or 1+ to 2+ is a CEL. The tune is exactly the same. The "2" just ignores the cat efficiency code... so don't expect power from the "tune" when you upgrade b/c the power comes solely from the TP when and if you upgrade that.

[vteckiller2000]

since when do ricers back down?
...and the moment you try running one, its going to smoke you.

you asked if the difference from 1 to 1+ is going to be boring in 2-3 days, the answer is yes... and in the grand scheme of things you will still be slow. Most minivans on the road today will still be able to put you away.

Not sure if you know this or not, this is just kind of an FYI...
the only difference from stage 1 to 2 or 1+ to 2+ is a CEL. The tune is exactly the same. The "2" just ignores the cat efficiency code... so don't expect power from the "tune" when you upgrade b/c the power comes solely from the TP when and if you upgrade that.

Exactly, if you are going to reflash it, just go to the 2+ file in anticipation of the tp/hfc.

[tayone415]

since when do ricers back down?
...and the moment you try running one, its going to smoke you.

you asked if the difference from 1 to 1+ is going to be boring in 2-3 days, the answer is yes... and in the grand scheme of things you will still be slow. Most minivans on the road today will still be able to put you away.

Not sure if you know this or not, this is just kind of an FYI...
the only difference from stage 1 to 2 or 1+ to 2+ is a CEL. The tune is exactly the same. The "2" just ignores the cat efficiency code... so don't expect power from the "tune" when you upgrade b/c the power comes solely from the TP when and if you upgrade that.

I had quite a bit of ricers slow down and stop revving when they heard the sound of the DV mine is loud especially when I hit 16-18 psi sometimes 19 psi I know 1 to 1+ is only a difference of 20 HP and 35 lbs of TQ but when I called my APR dealer they said the stage 2 tune does a little more than just delete the CEL from the HFC or TP but it's not as good as stock to stage 1.

Are you still getting smoked by ricers? I've only messed with ricers that were N/A.

[vteckiller2000]

I got "raced" by some jackwagon in a quad cab Dodge ram with a hemi 5.7 when I was trying to thread the needle in traffic. I only just pulled ahead in time...

[BUSAfREAkA4]

I had quite a bit of ricers slow down and stop revving when they heard the sound of the DV mine is loud especially when I hit 16-18 psi sometimes 19 psi I know 1 to 1+ is only a difference of 20 HP and 35 lbs of TQ but when I called my APR dealer they said the stage 2 tune does a little more than just delete the CEL from the HFC or TP but it's not as good as stock to stage 1.

Are you still getting smoked by ricers? I've only messed with ricers that were N/A.

Lol...your in a 1.8 stage one, its not a racecar. Drive it like the lux sedan it is. You want power, get an s4.

[vteckiller2000]

You want power, get an s4.

And the 12 city mpg that comes with it...

[tayone415]

Lol...your in a 1.8 stage one, its not a racecar. Drive it like the lux sedan it is. You want power, get an s4.

I know it's not a racecar but it's faster than most stage 1 cars, and I'm waiting to get money to buy an s4 but I'd be getting the b5 platform for the 2.7T motor.

And the 12 city mpg that comes with it...

I already avg 12-15 mpg highway/city

[waldo1324]

you can hear your DV??????

I can only hear mine in 2nd if I really listen for it...

if you have a 007 you can def FEEL it like its kicking your air pedal.

and yah ** maybe a few minivans may smoke us, and ricers beat us,, but ill be damned if they dont have wet dreams about the way we look!

[tayone415]

I got "raced" by some jackwagon in a quad cab Dodge ram with a hemi 5.7 when I was trying to thread the needle in traffic. I only just pulled ahead in time...

You must of really out drove him, I don't see how you'd keep up otherwise?

[vteckiller2000]

You must of really out drove him, I don't see how you'd keep up otherwise?

Vbox likens my 0-60 to 5.8 seconds when I was on the stock downpipe and clutch. It would fall off pretty quick after the 1/8 mile though...

Those Dodges are roughly high 14, low 15 second trucks in the quarter with around a 90 mph trap speed*


*on a good day

[BUSAfREAkA4]

I know it's not a racecar but it's faster than most stage 1 cars, and I'm waiting to get money to buy an s4 but I'd be getting the b5 platform for the 2.7T motor.

Just buy the motor and swap it into the b6

[tayone415]

Vbox likens my 0-60 to 5.8 seconds when I was on the stock downpipe and clutch. It would fall off pretty quick after the 1/8 mile though...

Those Dodges are roughly high 14, low 15 second trucks in the quarter with around a 90 mph trap speed*


*on a good day

I stay racing on the street hopefully I'm already 2000 rpms boosting because of the turbo and throttle lag and on the freeway my high end is shit after 80-90 mph I need lots more work.

[tayone415]

Just buy the motor and swap it into the b6

I'd love to do that I like the b6 body so much more than the b5 but I live in shitty ass CA and there's no way that swap would ever be legal.

[DNasty777]

I stay racing on the street hopefully I'm already 2000 rpms boosting because of the turbo and throttle lag and on the freeway my high end is shit after 80-90 mph I need lots more work.

Stop street racing, seriously. And to be fast after 80-90 you're going to need a larger turbo.

[kwimberly]

I had quite a bit of ricers slow down and stop revving when they heard the sound of the DV mine is loud especially when I hit 16-18 psi sometimes 19 psi I know 1 to 1+ is only a difference of 20 HP and 35 lbs of TQ but when I called my APR dealer they said the stage 2 tune does a little more than just delete the CEL from the HFC or TP but it's not as good as stock to stage 1.

Are you still getting smoked by ricers? I've only messed with ricers that were N/A.

Do you have one of these? I do, and I've found that it's the best thing at scaring the ricers. Of course, I do have a turbo, so there's no need to fake it, per se. However, this thing gives me extra psi sound. Prior to installing it, I loosened one of my FMIC clamps to create a slight leak so that I could get a whistle.

[old guy]

Do you have one of these? I do, and I've found that it's the best thing at scaring the ricers.

I bought two of them so I could get stereo turbo

Nobody eff's with me now.

[Kwarner]

I know it's not a racecar but it's faster than most stage 1 cars

Huh? More like most stock cars are faster than a stage 1 B6 1.8t.

[Charles.waite]

This thread is making me laugh.

OP it sounds like you need to get your car in shape before you start throwing more money at mods. If your stage 1 isn't significantly faster than stock you've got engine issues. Get a boost gauge, or borrow a Vag Com from someone and log your boost. I bet its far below the 18 PSI a stage 1 tune should clock in at.

Also you want to get an adjustable cam gear to fix a timing issue?!

I already avg 12-15 mpg highway/city

Again, if you're averaging 12mpg in a 1.8t you have issues. I dont care how bad the traffic is, I don't even think its POSSIBLE to get that low on a stage 1 1.8t...

After getting rid of the restrictive stock air intake and just installing a cone filter and breather I can hear it in all gears and revving it on a stand still and in reverse actually in my car it's a kinda too loud at times.

Restrictive stock filter? Turbo spooling in neutral? Hearing the turbo in reverse? Troll?

Not sure where to start....