Lets not turn this into a discussion of which brake upgrade is best, please!
So I've been mulling the idea of buying a set of HP2 calipers over in my head for a long time now. I've looked at the A4mods HP2 rebuild DIY and it doesn't seem that hard assuming its even needed. My question is (hypothetically of course), if I could source a set for under $100 that were of dubious condition, and I were willing to put in the effort to rebuild them myself, get the exterior bead blasted/cleaned up, what could be my possible pitfalls when putting these brakes into service? Possible issues that would make the brakes totally unusable?
I'm usually a huge stickler when it comes to critical systems like brakes, etc. Is getting a cheap set and reconditioning them myself just asking for headaches (and actual injury) down the road when/if they fail? I don't want to buy a damaged or faulty set of brakes, or a set that is on its last legs. Spend right or spend twice, and all that.
The brakes in question are no longer listed on eBay, but they were from a parts seller on the east coast. Seemed legitimate, but they condition wasn't listed, except for a few pictures showing some rust and signs of age.
Would it be possible on old ass brakes like them that even if I put in new seals, the piston could be scored or otherwise unserviceable? I know how difficult/impossible it is to source a new piston.
What are people's opinions of the remanufactured brakes that are all over eBay? Raybestos, Nugeon, Centric, Cardone, are all names that constantly pop up. Is there a real drawback to these reman. brakes? I would love to stay with OEM Lucas brakes, but they can get pricey.
I know I've got a lot of questions, but I'd love to start a discussion on this as I am very curious and found little info on cheapskate brake upgrades and re-manufactured options. Again I'm more than willing to put in my own time and effort, and if the price is right, I wouldn't feel terrible if I get a cheap set and they turn out to be useless... It would be a good learning experience
Last edited by Charles.waite; 01-23-2012 at 01:56 PM.
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
The same money you put into new seals, bushings, cleaning, etc. for those ooooooold brakes, would probably get you a decent set of B6 S4 brakes that don't need any work.
Kevin W.
2003 A4 1.8T quattro 5-spd. | USP lower | APR ECU w/ TT225's | APR TIP | test pipe | FMIC | Apikol snub | ecodes | Podi® | AWE sport pedals | JHM SSK/linkage | Forge 007 DV | '02 OEM sport suspension | OEM sport wheels | B6 S4 brakes w/ TyrolSport stiffeners | RS4 rear sway bar| Magnaflow 14829's| AVIC F700BT | hard-wired Passport 9500 | Side-mount trash bag hanging from shifter
I find it very hard to locate a set of B6 S4 brakes for under $350 right now. So taking that into account I don't see how it would cost $250 to refurbish a set of HP2s. I did a quick scan of the classifieds and ebay and found one set of OEM B6 S4 Brakes: B6 S4 Brakes
Having a B7 A4 I KNOW how much better those brakes are but its more of a cost issue than anything else. I've never really seen those brakes for less than $300. meanwhile a very good condition set of HP2s goes for less than $200.
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
I know, I saw those. You guys are ignoring the point of my thread. I am aware of the options, I've read about them ad nauseum, I've read nearly every thread on AZ regarding HP2 vs B6S4 and cost considerations, and Touraeg brake upgrades, etc.
Please reread my OP. Not asking for where I can find the calipers or which set I should get. I'm asking about rebuilt/rebuilding calipers and what would lay ahead of me were I to go that route.
Not trying to be an ass, just would prefer if we stick to my questions!
You ninja'd me: I've got OEM 18" USPs so I'm pretty sure clearance isn't an issue.
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
1.) Guide Pin bushings, the bushings are rubber and can be deteriorated.... these are not sold separately and can be next to impossible to find if you need a replacement.
2.) Guide pins, if the guide pins are nicked, scratched, or hurt the brake won't operate properly.... again, like bushings these are not sold separately.
3.) Pistons, If the pistons have not been properly maintained they could be damaged and render the brake unusable.
4.) Maintenance problems, if they have not been properly serviced the hard lines and bleeder valves could be rusted in pretty good, and not easily removable. I ran into this problem on a set of HP2's and the bleeders broke off in the caliper, trying to drill them out ruined the seat an the caliper was destroyed.
Luckily, they are cheap so if you do run into these problems you can pick up another set... lol
And stick with used OEM's ...remanufactured brakes off ebay are not worth the trouble.
Thats what I assumed, but I wasn't sure. I don't trust much on eBay, as a general rule, so I assumed they weren't worth it. I don't generally like to gamble with non-OEM parts in critical systems like the brakes, though even "OEM" parts on eBay are generally pretty suspect...
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
At our shop we use Nugeon reman calipers almost exclusively and have had no problems with them. They seem to do an excellent job and the prices are great.
As far as the HP2's, we've never sourced that particular caliper from Nugeon. We have tried to sources just the guide pin boots, and they are not available separately. The best bet would be to find a similar boot.
2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, APR 93, 710N, electronic oil pressure gauge, B6 Sport 17's, OEM Sport Shocks, H&R Sport Springs, My 5-Speed Swap Need to borrow a Cam Chain Tensioner Tool? Just pay shipping ($4 total). PM me. "If i had a manual for my commuting, i would literally...LITERALLY...kill myself in the face. Kill myself dead... right in the face." -toaster
1.) Guide Pin bushings, the bushings are rubber and can be deteriorated.... these are not sold separately and can be next to impossible to find if you need a replacement.
2.) Guide pins, if the guide pins are nicked, scratched, or hurt the brake won't operate properly.... again, like bushings these are not sold separately.
3.) Pistons, If the pistons have not been properly maintained they could be damaged and render the brake unusable.
4.) Maintenance problems, if they have not been properly serviced the hard lines and bleeder valves could be rusted in pretty good, and not easily removable. I ran into this problem on a set of HP2's and the bleeders broke off in the caliper, trying to drill them out ruined the seat an the caliper was destroyed.
Luckily, they are cheap so if you do run into these problems you can pick up another set... lol
Thanks for this info, this is the type of knowledge I was looking for.
I know Tyrolsport is testing their guide pin upgrade on the HP2s according to their rep in the Group buy thread, but its not yet available and trying to find that stuff separately is going to be tough as you've found out.
As far as the damage, I know if the piston is trashed it basically renders the caliper useless so I figured that would be the worst case scenario, but it sounds like excess corrosion in general could render the caliper un-useable as well, if as you said, the valve bleeder or something gets seized in the caliper. Good to know as I hadn't really thought about those parts as being an issue.
Originally Posted by walky_talky20
At our shop we use Nugeon reman calipers almost exclusively and have had no problems with them. They seem to do an excellent job and the prices are great.
As far as the HP2's, we've never sourced that particular caliper from Nugeon. We have tried to sources just the guide pin boots, and they are not available separately. The best bet would be to find a similar boot.
Good to know the reman. parts aren't total crap. I looked up the Nugeon calipers and it looks like they tend to run around $200 per side so that may be a bit too rich for my blood, even though they would be in "like-new" condition. They could still be a viable option, though at that price I would prefer to go with some newer S4 brakes.
One thing I learned is that with the HP2 and the B6S4/B7A4 brakes is that they all use the exact same rotors. At least that makes that part of the process that much simpler!
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
What are people's opinions of the remanufactured brakes that are all over eBay? Raybestos, Nugeon, Centric, Cardone, are all names that constantly pop up. Is there a real drawback to these reman. brakes? I would love to stay with OEM Lucas brakes, but they can get pricey.
You can get remanufactured calipers with pads for about $170/wheel on rockauto. They are probably just as good as the OEM brakes. I would think they use OEM Lucas cores and the remanufactured part is just new sliders, piston seals, etc.. I personally have never used remanufactured units.
If you bought used ones and needed new pistons that will drive the cost up fast. Not sure where you can get a piston beyond the dealer.
Replacing the seals is easy. I've done a few of them.
I never liked the brake pedal feel when I had HP2s. They also tended to fade a bit when hot (which is common on the S4s). Not sure if the pedal feel was because I had stock rubber flexible lines and if the fade was the Mintex Red Box pads I had.
An opportunity came up for B6 S4 brakes at all four corners so I went that route in the end. Brake feel is rock solid and the car stops much much better.
Another option might be B7 A4 front brakes. Smaller rotor than the S4 but the same caliper and pads.
A cheaper option is B6 3.0L rotors with TT/3.0 caliper brackets and good pads and SS lines. The brakes will feel better than stock.
HP2 calipers do not clear the OEM USP 18s but they DO clear the OEM sport 17s. When looking at used sets of calipers make sure that they include the brake line bracket and mounting bolt on the back of the caliper. I've seen some sets on here that don't come with that bracket for who knows what reason. They'll end up costing you another 30 something and a trip to home depot for bolts.
One thing you may or may not be aware of is that you should definitely check the C5 A6/Allroad classifieds because they use the same caliper. Picked up my set for under 200 a while back off an Allroad.
I had 18 and 5mm spacers were cutting it close. I was able to find a nice set for cheap. A lot of the S4 guys just upgrade to alcons so its pretty easy to find a complete and good condition set for 200 or so. HP2 are pretty good brakes overall. I dont know much B6S4 compare but I have 4 piston brembos and the only benefit is the weight and slightly better response.
You can get remanufactured calipers with pads for about $170/wheel on rockauto. They are probably just as good as the OEM brakes. I would think they use OEM Lucas cores and the remanufactured part is just new sliders, piston seals, etc.. I personally have never used remanufactured units.
If you bought used ones and needed new pistons that will drive the cost up fast. Not sure where you can get a piston beyond the dealer.
Replacing the seals is easy. I've done a few of them.
I never liked the brake pedal feel when I had HP2s. They also tended to fade a bit when hot (which is common on the S4s). Not sure if the pedal feel was because I had stock rubber flexible lines and if the fade was the Mintex Red Box pads I had.
An opportunity came up for B6 S4 brakes at all four corners so I went that route in the end. Brake feel is rock solid and the car stops much much better.
Another option might be B7 A4 front brakes. Smaller rotor than the S4 but the same caliper and pads.
A cheaper option is B6 3.0L rotors with TT/3.0 caliper brackets and good pads and SS lines. The brakes will feel better than stock.
I'm aware of those options, the 3.0 brakes IMO wouldn't offer enough of an improvement for the outlay but I'm not opposed to the b6S4/b7A4 calipers. I would likely pair them with 321mm B7 rotors and carriers unless they came with S4 carriers. With the massive increase from 288 to 345mm S4 rotors, though I would be worried it would throw off the brake bias in the car, though maybe its not as big an issue as I think given I'll likely never track my car...
Interesting to hear your impressions of the HP2s. The pedal feel is fairly important aspect of how the brakes perform so that's definitely a concern. I would likely go with some Goodridge or Stop-Tech SS lines and either Hawk Ceramic or HPS pads. (I really hate brake dust so most likely ceramic)
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
One thing I like about the HP2 calipers is the integrated Carrier. Seems like fewer bolts to corrode and seize, and less shit to worry about when I need to service them.
What would be stopping me from putting B5 S4 rears on my B6? Anyone tried it before?
Possible issues with e-brake linkage or attachment though they appear to be be nearly identical to the B6 rears (wider though to accommodate the 22mm thick vented discs) after some ECS Picture browsing...
Possible clearance issues since they are vented discs and are much thicker (22mm vs 10mm) but they are still only 256mm diameter. So 11mm larger than my 245mm rears.
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
I'm aware of those options, the 3.0 brakes IMO wouldn't offer enough of an improvement for the outlay but I'm not opposed to the b6S4/b7A4 calipers. I would likely pair them with 321mm B7 rotors and carriers unless they came with S4 carriers. With the massive increase from 288 to 345mm S4 rotors, though I would be worried it would throw off the brake bias in the car, though maybe its not as big an issue as I think given I'll likely never track my car...
Interesting to hear your impressions of the HP2s. The pedal feel is fairly important aspect of how the brakes perform so that's definitely a concern. I would likely go with some Goodridge or Stop-Tech SS lines and either Hawk Ceramic or HPS pads. (I really hate brake dust so most likely ceramic)
I drove Vince's car with B6 S4 front brakes and stock B6 A4 rear brakes (hawk front pads, stock rubber lines) and my car felt much stronger in the braking department. This was with my B6 S4 at all 4 corners. I have Pagid RS4-2 pads at all four corners.
Originally Posted by Charles.waite
One thing I like about the HP2 calipers is the integrated Carrier. Seems like fewer bolts to corrode and seize, and less shit to worry about when I need to service them.
What would be stopping me from putting B5 S4 rears on my B6? Anyone tried it before?
Possible issues with e-brake linkage or attachment though they appear to be be nearly identical to the B6 rears (wider though to accommodate the 22mm thick vented discs) after some ECS Picture browsing...
Possible clearance issues since they are vented discs and are much thicker (22mm vs 10mm) but they are still only 256mm diameter. So 11mm larger than my 245mm rears.
Hub offset on the B5 rears does not match the B6. That means the rotor doesn't fit and the caliper carrier is wrong. I physically tried putting a free set of B5 S4 rear brakes on my B6 when I had front brakes from a B5 S4 and they wouldn't fit.
I'm currently running HP2's with Goodridge lines and Hawk HPS pads. HUGE improvement over stock! I can't comment on pedal feel vs B6 S4 calipers (yet) but if you can pick up a used set for not too much $ its a welcome upgrade. In fact my HP2's will be for sale in a couple of weeks (scored a nice set of B6 S4 calipers to restore) so PM me if you think you'd be interested. I restored them when I first got them and they are still in excellent condition. The whole clearance thing is a pain since you have the 18" USP wheels. Running spacers & longer lug bolts isn't the end of the world, but you'd have to buy them which would add to the cost of the upgrade. If it were me I'd hold out for a B6 S4 or B7 A4 setup.
RAI | MTM Stage II | DSMIC | Fluidampr | FX400 | Vogtlant GT coilovers | B6 S4 brakes | ER TIP | Forge 007 | STaSIS | Stërn | Apikol | JHM trio | Podi | OEM+
I'm currently running HP2's with Goodridge lines and Hawk HPS pads. HUGE improvement over stock! I can't comment on pedal feel vs B6 S4 calipers (yet) but if you can pick up a used set for not too much $ its a welcome upgrade. In fact my HP2's will be for sale in a couple of weeks (scored a nice set of B6 S4 calipers to restore) so PM me if you think you'd be interested. I restored them when I first got them and they are still in excellent condition. The whole clearance thing is a pain since you have the 18" USP wheels. Running spacers & longer lug bolts isn't the end of the world, but you'd have to buy them which would add to the cost of the upgrade. If it were me I'd hold out for a B6 S4 or B7 A4 setup.
Yea the clearance is a bit of a hurdle, but not a huge issue. I would want to space out all sides evenly so new bolts and spacers for all four corners does add up in the end.
As much as the HP2s are a great budget option, I might have to reconsider. Though I had to slam my brakes on today and I was reminded how appalling the stopping power of our stock brakes is. I mean did a single person drive the 1.8t with the brakes before they threw it into production or were they just sitting on a warehouse full of B5 calipers and the bean counters made them carry them over, to the B6...
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
Yea the clearance is a bit of a hurdle, but not a huge issue. I would want to space out all sides evenly so new bolts and spacers for all four corners does add up in the end.
As much as the HP2s are a great budget option, I might have to reconsider. Though I had to slam my brakes on today and I was reminded how appalling the stopping power of our stock brakes is. I mean did a single person drive the 1.8t with the brakes before they threw it into production or were they just sitting on a warehouse full of B5 calipers and the bean counters made them carry them over, to the B6...
What are u talking about? (some will say)...
The b6 brakes are totally adequate (the nay sayers continue)...
Are u on a racetrack? (they rant on)
I can lock up the tires with the stock setup (good grief)
All that is needed is fluid/pads/stainless steel lines and the brakes are more than adequate (if u dont know it dont hurt I guess)
^^^ I almost killed a somebody several times on those spongy stock fading excuses for stopping devices.
Gud Luk with ur brake upgrading journey.
Last edited by A4SoftWalker; 01-24-2012 at 10:10 PM.
MODS
Do u have the Bentley or Dealership Manual & Tools it takes to work on YOUR car properly? Or...
Are u just going to continue to wing it & keep expecting manna to fall from AZ?
Apikol>Snub/Diff APR>ExhTIP-TB hoses,Stg3 AWE>DV
JHM>ShortShift-the works
Misc> 18x8x9 235/265;HSport S4 barsTT225;Bosch-F6DTC;CarbonioV2+V6Intake Inlet;HFC;Podi-P2;ATP mani;GPopK04;034mounts
SPEC>Stg3+,LWFW
STaSIS>328/305mm,40/60,SL
Personal Motto>Walk Softly Carry a Big Stick
^^ I wouldn't say I've come close to killing anyone (unless you count scaring my GF half to death) but its horrendous how spongy and shitty the stock brakes are. It's like after a certain, quite low threshold, you just don't get any more stopping power from them until the abs kicks in. There are nO good words I have for them. What I really want are the brakes from my old g37. Those things could stop! Every car should have brakes that good. The fact that they were powdercoated in gunmetal from the factory didn't hurt either...
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
I am considering this mod myself. I have searched all the posts about it, but can't find exactly which rotors to work with it. Would it be the same B5 S4/A6/other cars they cam on. What is the dia that I need?
So I managed getting two HP2 calipers off ebay for 20.50! I have to replace the hard line on the driver side, which ECS has for like 20. Since I'm doing this, I want to put on stainless lines as well. Will the front lines for a B6 chassis bold up the the HP2 fronts? Stoptec has the same part number (950 33007) for the B6 A4 and B5 S4 fronts. can anyone confirm this? Would save me a little money buying the front and rear in a kit, instead of separately.
Sweet! I'm sorry if the other bidder is on here, and you didn't get them. I'm in MI, and the auction is in CA, and it ended at 2:11am my time. It was at 15.00, and I set my alarm to go off at 2:09am and bid 30.00. With shipping its only 55 bucks. I am going to rebuild them, so I have checked out that page on a4 mods. Don't know if the link will work, but this is them
^ Good deal if your willing to put in the time to get them working/looking like new.
There's a set of (supposedly) good working B5 S4 calipers for 99.99 (free shipping) on ebay right now. Just search around and you can find deals.
I'd skip B7 A4, I always thought it wasn't the time or effort for what I feel is a minimal upgrade.
Rust/pitting of the caliper piston and I'd say it's not worth it. Anything else it's done easily enough, but only if you were getting a deal like tommygunns got.
***I agree with almost everything A4SoftWalker said.***
not to thread jack, but can anyone with HP2's comment if the added weight of the calipers and rotors have a noticeable effect on the ride/handling, due to the added unsprung weight? I'm considering the upgrade, but deal with awful roads in NJ and don't want to make things worse. Thanks in advance!
not to thread jack, but can anyone with HP2's comment if the added weight of the calipers and rotors have a noticeable effect on the ride/handling, due to the added unsprung weight? I'm considering the upgrade, but deal with awful roads in NJ and don't want to make things worse. Thanks in advance!
when I ran them years ago, I remember noticing the steering felt a bit heavier, but some people prefer that so yeah
2002 A4 1.8TQ 5M. 182k+ miles
FWD-->Quattro swap, Frankenturbo + MTM, Valeo SMFW/clutch, 034 HFC, Mototec exhaust, ER sport FMIC, S4 e-codes, USP front lip, Zender trunk lip, Stoptech 355mm front/B7 S4 rear brakes, Stasis Ohlins SL COs, Neuspeed 21mm RSB, Sportec Mono 10 (rep) wheels, B6 S4 nogaro alcantara front seats, Euro shift knob, JHM short shifter, B7 console, RS4 pedals, OEM brushed interior trim, SII+, TT-S MFSW, color instrument cluster, Alpine PDX-5, IDQ 10" sub
Thanks for the response, I'm trying to figure out which direction go with this upgrade. For the time being i'm leaning towards just pads and rotors & stainless lines.
Thats kind of how my thinking has finished up. The HP2s are great brakes, but the newer/better design of the B7 brakes and their reduced bulk and bolt-on fitment for my OEM USP wheels and potentially a winter set down the line has me leaning in that direction if I do replace my front calipers. For now, I've settled on SS lines, Ceramic pads, and the Tyrolsport stiffening kit. If at that point, I'm still not happy with the braking performance, I'll step up to B7 brakes. The Stiffener kit transfers over for that, so I could recoup the costs for that at least.
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
Thats kind of how my thinking has finished up. The HP2s are great brakes, but the newer/better design of the B7 brakes and their reduced bulk and bolt-on fitment for my OEM USP wheels and potentially a winter set down the line has me leaning in that direction if I do replace my front calipers. For now, I've settled on SS lines, Ceramic pads, and the Tyrolsport stiffening kit. If at that point, I'm still not happy with the braking performance, I'll step up to B7 brakes. The Stiffener kit transfers over for that, so I could recoup the costs for that at least.
I was just going to recommend the stiffening kit. Have heard they make a night and day difference. Here is the link
), if I could source a set for under $100 that were of dubious condition, and I were willing to put in the effort to rebuild them myself, get the exterior bead blasted/cleaned up, what could be my possible pitfalls when putting these brakes into service? Possible issues that would make the brakes totally unusable?
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Originally Posted by kneel
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