Changing brakes

[VonnyBoy]

Ok, so I've searched all over and can't find a DIY for changing the pads. This is my 1st Audi and I had no clue how different this would be compared to the Japanese cars I've owned in the past... Any help or link to a DIY would be greatly appreciated.

Purchased a set of EBC RedStuff pads, hoping to ease the brake dust and increase brake performance.

[Emission]

Ok, so I've searched all over and can't find a DIY for changing the pads. This is my 1st Audi and I had no clue how different this would be compared to the Japanese cars I've owned in the past... Any help or link to a DIY would be greatly appreciated.

Purchased a set of EBC RedStuff pads, hoping to ease the brake dust and increase brake performance.

Rumor says you can do fronts yourself, but you will need VAG-COM Diagnostic Tool with HEX-USB+CAN Interface to retract the electronic parking brake in the rear to do the job.

I am in the same position as you — I have new rotors/pads on my shelf but are looking for some clarification on the process.

- Mike

[neptunesfinest]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...eplacement-DIY
I followed this and was successful even though it was my first time ever changing brakes so I'd say it's pretty easy.

[Emission]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...eplacement-DIY
I followed this and was successful even though it was my first time ever changing brakes so I'd say it's pretty easy.

Yeah, I read every post in that thread. But, it isn't really clear about the REAR pads. Did you do you rear pads?

- Mike

[neptunesfinest]

Here you go - procedures for using VCDS to open, close, and cycle the rear electric parking brakes. However - be aware that while this opens the parking brakes it does NOT actually retract the pistons - you have to push the pistons back into the calipers (like on the fronts) - by applying pressure using a piston retractor tool:

Open Rear Parking Brake:
Prerequisites:
• Connect a battery charger.
• Cycle the Parking Brake ON, then OFF first.
[Select]
[53-Parking Brake]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 007
[Go!]
The brake calipers will then open, allowing the pads to be changed.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
It is normal for the LED in the parking brake switch and the warning lamp in the instrument cluster to blink rapidly at this point.
Close Rear Parking Brake:
Prerequisites:
• Connect a battery charger.
[Select]
[53 - Parking Brake]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 006
[Go!]
The brake calipers will then close.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

The LED in the parking brake switch and the warning lamp in the instrument cluster will probably continue to blink rapidly. This should stop after cycling the Parking Brake ON, then OFF again.
Function Test :
Prerequisites:
• Cycle the Parking Brake ON, then OFF first.
[Select]
[53 - Parking Brake]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 010
[Go!]
The brake pads are now opening and closing 3 times.
Wait 30 seconds after the the brakes stop making noise.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

From an A5 thread but the A4 is the same. VCDS is obviously needed.

[Emission]

Awrg. So much for quick brake changes at the track (shows you where Audi's mind is). Disappointing.

- Mike

[UmIsThisThingOn]

Awrg. So much for quick brake changes at the track (shows you where Audi's mind is). Disappointing.

- Mike

To be fair, this is a luxury car meant for driving on the street.

If you want quick change abilities, you need to pony up for a BBK that allows you to remove the bridge on top on order to swap 'em out. VCDS for the rear wouldn't be much of an time suck once you do it a cpl of times and get the hang of it.

Of course you know all this judging by your corral of cars in your sig.

[a4magnet]

I am going to change my front brake pads, i bought Mintex 320mm.. Do i need to use VCDS and do something with the electric parking brake?

[yourownhero]

It is not required to use VCDS to retract the brake. you can do the samething by buying a Disc-Brake Caliper Wind Back tool. Here is the one i have.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ms_ohs_product

Just release the parking brake, jack up the car, remove the wheel. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on. Then wiggle the caliper free, remove the old brake pads, install the new ones, then use the tool.

You need to put on the correct adapter (one for our car is medium circle with the single bar coming out, you will see it in the kit if its the one from amazon), then attach it to the tool, and start to wind back the caliper. It will take a little while and it will sometimes not go at all. Just take the tool off and reposition the adapter and turn some more. You will start to notice after checking if it fits back over the new pads, that it is getting more clearance. Keep this up until it is fully retracted. And again, it may feel as if its not going back any, but I assure you it is, just keep spinning, and if it gets stuck, take off adapter and reposition and keep on spinning. If after you reposition the adapter and it doesnt spin anymore, check fitment and it will slide right on.

Repeate for the other side.

You may need to open the lid for the brake reservoir to let any air out before you do this though, i have done it just from experience though. And replace it when your done changing the pads.

Also when you have your back brake pads on both rear tires, get in the car and pull the ebrake. It will make the noise and will take longer than usual for it to fully engage. (about 3 times longer). Once you see it is engaged, disengage it. I like to engage/disengage it a couple more times.

Front pads are easy, just watch those clips, they are dangerous and pop off at a high rate of speed which once it hits skin it equals blood blister. (from experience)

[VonnyBoy]

Thanks guys... I ordered a few tools (torx sockets) from ECS tuning but apparently I didn't order the complete set to include the correct size that I needed to remove the 4 torx screws from the caliper... Just for the sake of not wasting anymore time, what size torx bit is necessary to take off the 4 caliper screws?

[UmIsThisThingOn]

Ok, so I've searched all over and can't find a DIY for changing the pads. This is my 1st Audi and I had no clue how different this would be compared to the Japanese cars I've owned in the past...

It's not too much different.

Thanks guys... I ordered a few tools (torx sockets) from ECS tuning but apparently I didn't order the complete set to include the correct size that I needed to remove the 4 torx screws from the caliper... Just for the sake of not wasting anymore time, what size torx bit is necessary to take off the 4 caliper screws?

You only need to remove the caliper from the knuckle with the two bolts in the back. You don't have to mess with the rear hex bolts. If you're talking about the Hex bolt for the rotor, it's a T30.

Here's another thread. It's a DIY for the ST BBK, but you can follow the info for removal of the stock bits.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ech-ST-60-BBK?

[VonnyBoy]

So I followed the DIY and it was straight forward... The only thing now is that the brake warning light is still on. My 25k maintenance is approaching so I'll have the dealer reset the light. It may be all in my head, but my brakes feel a bit different now though. Actually they feel a bit squishy but it may just be my imagination.

All in all, thanks for the help guys. I was quite surprised how straight forward the job was. I can't believe the dealer charges $600 for such a simple task!

[yourownhero]

The brake warning light is on because the brake sensor wore down enough to trip it. The sensor cannot simply be reset, it will need to be replaced since it rubbed down enough to allow the metal to touch metal.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4-...sor/ES2089623/

best bet is to replace them before replacing the cable...

[Emission]

So I followed the DIY and it was straight forward... The only thing now is that the brake warning light is still on. My 25k maintenance is approaching so I'll have the dealer reset the light. It may be all in my head, but my brakes feel a bit different now though. Actually they feel a bit squishy but it may just be my imagination.

All in all, thanks for the help guys. I was quite surprised how straight forward the job was. I can't believe the dealer charges $600 for such a simple task!

Brakes also take a hundred miles or so to properly break-in. Next week they will feel fine.

- Mike