I have my a4 b6 sold. I'm looking into getting a new and ran across an 06 lexus is250 with
83,000 miles. The car has a salvage title due to theft recovery. They were asking $12,900
for car and I got them down to $9,000. Im going to run a car fax report and get it checked
out by a mechanic. The car has aftermarket wheels and exhaust. The only thing is that I live in SC and the car is in FL. I would have to fly down and drive it back.
Would you buy the car if it passed an inspection?
ko4 turbo, apr stage II, genesis 380cc injectors, apr tip, apr snub mount, evolution racewerks fmic, forge dv, hallman mbc, testpipe, magnaflow exhaust, prosport boost guage, kenwood indash dvd, koni coilovers, 18 inch R8 replicas, 20% tint, alpine type r 12, kicker amp, led license plate bulbs, 10000k low beam hid, 3000k fog light hid, EuroPlate and b7 key fob.
My wife had one and they all have pretty bad carbon buildup issues--to the point where my wife's car had misfiring problems quite often, which required that we take it in for service (under warranty) on several occassions.
In the end, we sold the car. However, for 10k, it's a damn good price for an otherwise fine car.
Buy my stuff:
B7 Bixenon Housings (3 pieces--1x Left housing, 2x Right housings, one for parts, the other has a loose piece inside the housing)
B7 Bixenon Ballasts - adaptive (2)
B7 Bixenon Ballasts - non-adaptive (2)
Revo stage 2, tt225 injectors, Enkei Phalenx 19 x 8.5 ET38, Continental DWS 215-35-19, Tien S springs, S4 shocks and struts, RS4 rear sway, Euro Codes FMIC, USP mod, Deval Splitter, CC mod, 15% tint, 3" Test pipe, 3" full exhaust with Borla 40357 mufflers, APR T.I.P., Apikol snub mount, Podi steering column gauge pod, B7 Center Console, Interior and license plate LEDS, and the ability to decapitate a smurf.
Revo stage 2, tt225 injectors, Enkei Phalenx 19 x 8.5 ET38, Continental DWS 215-35-19, Tien S springs, S4 shocks and struts, RS4 rear sway, Euro Codes FMIC, USP mod, Deval Splitter, CC mod, 15% tint, 3" Test pipe, 3" full exhaust with Borla 40357 mufflers, APR T.I.P., Apikol snub mount, Podi steering column gauge pod, B7 Center Console, Interior and license plate LEDS, and the ability to decapitate a smurf.
Ultimately it's up to you to decide to buy it or not however here are some things to consider when dealing with vehicle with prior salvage history:
You cannot get a loan against the vehicle
You cannot get an extended warranty or service contract.
I believe that all factory support (warranties, campaigns, etc) is not applicable to salvage vehicles <** might want to verify this..
You might have difficulties binding insurance (comprehensive/collision) with a salvage vehicle.
You will have difficulty selling it when/if the time comes.
If it's declared a total loss the ins co can offer you significantly less than a similar non salvage vehicle.
In certain states salvage vehicles cost more to register and some state require a more stringent inspection.
Salvage vehicles can be a great buy however they generally have a great deal of baggage that goes with owning them. I had a salvaged A4 I drove for a few years, and although the car was flawless, it took almost a year to sell at 60% of retail.
My insurance will insure it and I'm paying cash for the car. I dont plan to sell it until the wheels fall off. I dont want to get into a car payment. I really think Im going to get it. I just wanted your guys opinions.
ko4 turbo, apr stage II, genesis 380cc injectors, apr tip, apr snub mount, evolution racewerks fmic, forge dv, hallman mbc, testpipe, magnaflow exhaust, prosport boost guage, kenwood indash dvd, koni coilovers, 18 inch R8 replicas, 20% tint, alpine type r 12, kicker amp, led license plate bulbs, 10000k low beam hid, 3000k fog light hid, EuroPlate and b7 key fob.
My insurance will insure it and I'm paying cash for the car. I dont plan to sell it until the wheels fall off. I dont want to get into a car payment. I really think Im going to get it. I just wanted your guys opinions.
If this is the case and you're willing to wrench on the car yourself or have a good shop help you when you're in need instead of warranties and all that then I don't see anything wrong with the situation. I say go for it since you've weighed out your pros and cons. is250's are nice cars.
My A4 was salvaged when I bought it and it had 848 miles lol. The dealer had done all the repairs and the car has been problem free in terms of frame related issues and as far as driving is concerned. Nothing wrong with a salvaged title car. Just have it inspected by a GOOD mechanic on a HOIST and you should be fine.
But just my opinion, IS250's suck ass. I had one as a loaner not too long ago and they are slow, don't handle that well and use ancient technology to stay running.
-Kirk
AZ's First 2.0 Stroker 3076R Powered Tiptronic B6 Built by RavenMS. Powered by PSI Concepts & GIAC
BetaAlphaTau Member #58
"The last time someone tried to put GRAMMAR in their shit it caused a massive over boost and their motor shit the bed." - Turbavanttro
Nothing wrong with salvage car. My a4 has a salvage title due to theft recovery. I got it with 20k miles and it was pretty flawless.
Make sure you get it inspected by a body shop and good mechanic to make sure there is no hidden issues. If the car was in an accident and wasnt reported the carfax would not show it.
Having a salvage vehicle you are fully eligible to get all the safety recalls and such.
Only downside is trying to sell it because when people hear salvage they automatically think bent frame, major accident... which is stupid.
I was going to buy a 2004 Black S4 Avant last year that was branded as a Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon because the 1st owner had the dealer buy it back for some reason within the first 4 months/1000 miles of ownership. Its carfax after that was spotless, and it had had multiple owners and 50+k miles on it with nothing major. The car drove great. I would have bought it but I couldn't get financing for it from ANYONE. kinda sucked. In retrospect I'm kinda glad I don't have the V-8 and all the maintenance that goes along with that. It would have been an expensive car to maintain. But yea, get it inspected really thoroughly and you may get lucky with a solid car.
Good luck trying to resell it though...
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
A good client of mine buys salvaged cars, fixes them, then re sells them. They can sometimes be a pain in the ass with air bags, seat belts etc etc. I've done a lot of detail work for him.
3.0 with a Cat back, oh and my roof rack adds 50+ Horse Power. DTP
-Max
Soft leather seats with heat / cooling functions, push button start, paddle shifters, roomy rear seat, navi (not sure if yours has this), backup camera (same as before).
However, I cannot stress this enough: have someone inspect the engine for carbon issues. When it misfires, the car goes into limp mode until you re-start the engine. I'm talking idling at a light and then when you go to push the throttle, it misfires and limps off at 15 miles / hour. Even when it happened to us a lot, it wasn't easily repeatable.
Buy my stuff:
B7 Bixenon Housings (3 pieces--1x Left housing, 2x Right housings, one for parts, the other has a loose piece inside the housing)
B7 Bixenon Ballasts - adaptive (2)
B7 Bixenon Ballasts - non-adaptive (2)
I just bought A8 with salvage title http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ent?highlight= As long as there is no frame damage and no flood damage you can go for it. Lexus is250 is a nice car, my friend owns it and I drove it quite a bit. I still like it, but man, its boooring
I was looking at IS300s when I was on the car hunt, mainly because manual and RWD. Kinda glad I didn't get one. It was really hard to find a non-riced-out one here in Seattle. Most of them got ruined when the Altezza parts hit our shores...
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
sc is known for being able to wash car titles. from wat my father inlaw was saying ther is an inspection u get in sc and they give u a clean title that can b transfered as a clean title to another state. its why he recommends carfax reports in the south east. he has been in the car business for the past 30 years, and i trust the things he says. he is partial to american made cars so he gives me shit for my "german crap car" as he calls it. but then he always wants me to drive when we go to the auto auctions lol.
Well I bought a 2000 honda accord to drive for now. Within the next month-3months going to get a new car. Either an brand new is350, used s5, used lexus is-f or used bmw m3.
Im just waiting on a settlement plus my taxes. That way I can buy the car cash with no note.
ko4 turbo, apr stage II, genesis 380cc injectors, apr tip, apr snub mount, evolution racewerks fmic, forge dv, hallman mbc, testpipe, magnaflow exhaust, prosport boost guage, kenwood indash dvd, koni coilovers, 18 inch R8 replicas, 20% tint, alpine type r 12, kicker amp, led license plate bulbs, 10000k low beam hid, 3000k fog light hid, EuroPlate and b7 key fob.
If there are documentation on what was wrong with the car and is an easy fix then I would go for it. but I wouldnt want to run into unexpected problems. and I would be pissed. so No
Im in Greenville sc and goto gainesville fl often to see my gf in grad school. Carpool? Lol..... IMO is300 is a great platform to build but not the 250. If you go BMW go 335i my buddy's makes about 320 at the wheels with some very simple parts.
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