4/18 - Modified S4 fuel rail to fit RS4 intake manifold, RS4 T/B & Manifold measurements, Airaid 3.5" heat resistant plastic intake to be built (post #640)
3/24 - Throttle body insulator gasket, Lighter battery, fresher tires, A/C bypass belt (post #586 & 593)
3/22 - 2.7 manifold dyno, power loss, w/ Video Womp Womp lol
3/20 - Rough port matching of 2.7 manifold complete (post #502)
3/20 - Pics of Tar Removal & Monster Truck ride height after 280lbs removed! lol (post #491)
3/18 - VIDEO of 2.7 manifold sound (post #438)
3/17 - Begin porting of 2.7 Intake manifold (post #428)
3/16 - 2.7 BI-TURBO intake manifold installed and first idle test w/ VIDEO (post # 411)
3/15 - FWD CONVERSION!!, Comparison dynos', 1/4 mile, w/ VIDEOS (post #396)
3/12 - Creating a sealed area for intake air charge. Measured 3.0 Throttle body size (post #381)
3/09 - Heat Shield for Intake & Maintenance (Trans Fluid, Spark Plugs, Fuel Filter) (post #378)
2/28 - Built a Custom partial 3.5" intake (post #322)
2/24 - IMPROVED Dyno Graphs & Video, +26 awhp PEAK over stock (post #258)
2/23 - Front Brakes Overhaul, Beginning front suspension overhaul, Painted interior trim gunmetal color (post #256)
2/19 - Continuing Weight Reduction (sort of), New Aluminum interior trim to be painted (post #254)
2/12 - Found Variable Manifold was broken & choking Upper RPM's (post #242)
2/10 - IMPROVED 1/8th mile & 20-55mph 2nd gear pull times w/ Vids (post # 237)
2/4 - 3" single exhaust Version-2 w/ Take-off video (post # 172)
1/29 - Gutting cats beginnings PITA!! (post # 135)
1/28 - 3" single exhaust system w/ VIDEOS (post #112)
1/22 - Bentley Manual (post # 111)
1/18 - WEIGHT Reduction beginning stages (post #96)
1/13- Stock 1/8th mile results & VIDEO of Run (post #71)
1/12 - Complete Exterior Reassembly of color matched lowers & grill!
1/11 - Trunk painted & Received Complete Front Control Arm Kit
1/2-1/7 Repair 1/4 panel & Painted parts to color of car
12/31/11 Dynoed stock 156awhp/182awtq
12/24/11 Purchased the car
This Audi A4 V6 3.0 6-speed i must say it is a very nice car with lots of potential. It has a clean title and 140k miles. I live in miami and this car was a Boston car for all of its life the owner drove down here to live and sold it to me recently. It has alot of rust underneath the car but i am slowly alleviating all of the oxidation and grime from the car as to me this is the only way to learn by taking apart cleaning and putting things back together. Ok on to the fun stuff.
need painted lowers. what kind of intake is that?? i'm not sure if you are aware but you are missing several covers and seals in the engine bay
yea i know i took that pic when i was workin on the engine so i removed all of that stuff but i do have all the stock pieces, the intake is just some spare parts i had layin around, its a blox 3 inch velocity stack with pantyhose covering it
is their flash available yet? i was looking into unitronic because there is a dealer close by my house so there would be no down time? Any input on these two?
It doesn't say 155 Max power does it? 182 Tq? God I hope not. I'm not real great at reading dyno graphs, but ...?
sadly yes, but for a relatively stock car i am optimistic becuz of the strong torque graph, which brings me to a theory, arent The 3.0's rated at 220hp/220tq to the engine? so given that doesnt that mean if the engine is rated at equal horsepower and torque shouldnt it make equal numbers to the wheels? Ok so looking at my graph of 156whp/182wtq there is an approximate 29% loss of horsepower to the wheels and an approximate 17% loss of torque to the wheels. Which leads me to conclude in theory that the torque numbers of this engine are severely under rated. This engine should be rated closer to the 250tq mark becuz 30% less than 250 is 180. Thoughts?
sadly yes, but for a relatively stock car i am optimistic becuz of the strong torque graph, which brings me to a theory, arent The 3.0's rated at 220hp/220tq to the engine? so given that doesnt that mean if the engine is rated at equal horsepower and torque shouldnt it make equal numbers to the wheels? Ok so looking at my graph of 156whp/182wtq there is an approximate 29% loss of horsepower to the wheels and an approximate 17% loss of torque to the wheels. Which leads me to conclude in theory that the torque numbers of this engine are severely under rated. This engine should be rated closer to the 250tq mark becuz 30% less than 250 is 180. Thoughts?
I wouldn't assume drivetrain loss is constant at all engine speeds.
I'm gonna say you are down on power due to the worn state of the motor. 140k miles worth of worn seals and various other issues. Logging it with VAGCOM would show a lot more insight into what's going on. I'm assuming you flushed all fluids and changed the plugs, but maybe clean the injectors too? I would definitely like to see a run on that same dyno with the same conditions after you get a JHM flash. They are supposedly squeezing a lot of performance out of these engines.
-Tim
'08 VW R32, Candy White - stock
'02 A4 1.8tmq Avant, Dolphin Grey - engine swap in the future
Would be interested to see a dyno with the JHM flash too... That being said, a healthy 3.0 should dyno around 170, so maybe focus on getting the engine healthy first. And go back to the stock intake, you're only losing power with the one you have.
2004 a4 3.0, black on black, sport package, UPL
| JHM 94oct tune, TCU tune | ST Coilovers |
| Pioneer avh4000dvd, hertz hsk 165's, PPI 580.4, JL 10w6v2, JL 500/1 |
I stand corrected, the dyno I was thinking of was 162, thought it was 169. So 155 is reasonable. Still should go back to the stock intake, that one is just slowing you down.
2004 a4 3.0, black on black, sport package, UPL
| JHM 94oct tune, TCU tune | ST Coilovers |
| Pioneer avh4000dvd, hertz hsk 165's, PPI 580.4, JL 10w6v2, JL 500/1 |
What year model and build date is your B6. Also you would be better going back to stock intake and doing a Zingo mod, but I see your intake takes a dive down to the bottom of the car, where is it picking up the fresh air from.
Would be interested to see a dyno with the JHM flash too... That being said, a healthy 3.0 should dyno around 170, so maybe focus on getting the engine healthy first. And go back to the stock intake, you're only losing power with the one you have.
wow 170? thats sounds great that lets me know i have work to do, i would say the catalytics would be the first culprit i would go for as well as the exhaust system, the exhaust is rusted out on the outside and i was able to shine a light in the mufflers and witness rust inside the mufflers as well so there has to be some heavy restriction in there will things dislodging and causing blockage of some sorts, and does anyone have any graphs from other stock 3.0's that they could post so i can compare?
I'm gonna say you are down on power due to the worn state of the motor. 140k miles worth of worn seals and various other issues. Logging it with VAGCOM would show a lot more insight into what's going on. I'm assuming you flushed all fluids and changed the plugs, but maybe clean the injectors too? I would definitely like to see a run on that same dyno with the same conditions after you get a JHM flash. They are supposedly squeezing a lot of performance out of these engines.
i have not done a full fluid flush yet, i got this thing last weekend christmas eve so i am doing a little bit at a time, i just really wanted to dyno so that way when i make changes i had a baseline so i know if i am doing things rite, i did change the engine oil though and gear lube. The spark plugs are audi brand and the gap is .044 which i believe is in the correct spec. I would like to do the JHM mods in the near future but like i said i have had it for only a week and need to take care of basics first. I just found the front lower control arms are shot and causing noticeable inside tire wear. One of the tires were corded. OUCH!
more updates! puttin the parts in for paint this week, my days of multi color are over cant wait for the new look here are some disassembly pics, its my fathers business so gettin it done quick and for the right price
WOOAHHH put the Audi rings back on the grill it ruins the car.It's an Audi you should be proud to have them on the grill. And what kind of potential are you talking about bc there isnt that much stuff you can do to make that car faster. It's a 3.0 non turbo. unless you turbo that car you will not see much increase in power. But i still do not know what kind of potential you mean. Good luck with it anyway. It's still an Audi keep it clean. welcome to the forums.
sadly yes, but for a relatively stock car i am optimistic becuz of the strong torque graph, which brings me to a theory, arent The 3.0's rated at 220hp/220tq to the engine? so given that doesnt that mean if the engine is rated at equal horsepower and torque shouldnt it make equal numbers to the wheels? Ok so looking at my graph of 156whp/182wtq there is an approximate 29% loss of horsepower to the wheels and an approximate 17% loss of torque to the wheels. Which leads me to conclude in theory that the torque numbers of this engine are severely under rated. This engine should be rated closer to the 250tq mark becuz 30% less than 250 is 180. Thoughts?
Those are crank hp and torque numbers...the dyno tell you wheel hp and torque numbers. For the 3.0 stock that where it should be.
Check over everything underneath again, You say everything is rusted? or just has surface rust.? These cars don't rust that much unless they sit for years in the rain and snow just rotting. Front Control arms should be done, sway bar end links, possibly sway bar bushings, your alignment could be off causing the tires to wear, that is due to camber wear on the inside of the tire like you said but you are not low so it could be something different. How are your engine mounts? does the engine move alot when shifting. If everything o nthis car is stock and was never updated then you will need about everything on this car new. Did this guy you bought that car from tell you if he replaced anything.
I can help you out a lot just ask me any question you might have.
WOOAHHH put the Audi rings back on the grill it ruins the car.It's an Audi you should be proud to have them on the grill. And what kind of potential are you talking about bc there isnt that much stuff you can do to make that car faster. It's a 3.0 non turbo. unless you turbo that car you will not see much increase in power. But i still do not know what kind of potential you mean. Good luck with it anyway. It's still an Audi keep it clean. welcome to the forums.
Lol i kno i kno nothing against AUDI i just wanna do a different look for now, and its a V6 with 10.1:1 compression thats being choked to death by small piping, catalytics, a terrible exhaust manifold design, and not to mention a heavy AWD platform, once i alleviate a few of those things it should be a moderately more pleasureable vehicle IMHO, i can tell you just by the extrememly worn lower control arm bushings that this thing is in need of TLC, once i fix those LCA's and get and alignment i will be off to the drag strip to get another baseline of where i stand in pretty much stock form :)
Check over everything underneath again, You say everything is rusted? or just has surface rust.? These cars don't rust that much unless they sit for years in the rain and snow just rotting. Front Control arms should be done, sway bar end links, possibly sway bar bushings, your alignment could be off causing the tires to wear, that is due to camber wear on the inside of the tire like you said but you are not low so it could be something different. How are your engine mounts? does the engine move alot when shifting. If everything o nthis car is stock and was never updated then you will need about everything on this car new. Did this guy you bought that car from tell you if he replaced anything.
I can help you out a lot just ask me any question you might have.
_Brandon Bondar_
i can only see surface rust as of now nothing is really through and through,
Yes I understand, but I think the car will look great with the rings on the grill and the outer chrome pieces black, that's what i did and it looks sick. But its your car not mine :)
So what have you done so far, let me know if im wrong... I read you changed coil packs, you changed the oil, have you changed the spark plugs?? a good tune up will help out alot.
I would change the fuel filter, you have alot of miles it will help out alot. Also I would put back the stock air intake and throw a K&N air filter you will gain alot of power and retain stock look.
Originally Posted by MJM Autohaus
KONI COILOVERS WITH MEYLE 1O-PIECE HEAVY DUTY CONTROL ARM KIT:
$1449.95 WITH FREE SHIPPING AND FREE FRONT SHOCK MOUNTS - PM US TO PLACE AN ORDER!
Yea the exhaust was the worst with the rust. but with some grease and wd-40 and paint you can get ride of all that rust. It doesnt look that bad I thought it was worse but liek i said these cars do not rust like american cars do. I am a mechanic and see all types of cars with rust you wouldnt believe. our cars are good for rust hold up. Like for those bolts and stuff you can take off and grease them up and underneath spray black rust preventer,but you dont have to go crazy taking off every bolt just spray wd-40 on everything under there and lube up anything that you can lube. Take a wire brush or wire wheel to clean the rust off and spray that and rust will stay away.
WOOAHHH put the Audi rings back on the grill it ruins the car.It's an Audi you should be proud to have them on the grill.
I dunno, the no ring look can be pulled off if done correctly: Captain Obvious
Buy my stuff:
B7 Bixenon Housings (3 pieces--1x Left housing, 2x Right housings, one for parts, the other has a loose piece inside the housing)
B7 Bixenon Ballasts - adaptive (2)
B7 Bixenon Ballasts - non-adaptive (2)
Damn this car is going to be looking mint when all these parts are done!
Well i hope so i still hav to get my rear right hand quarter panel fixed, ill picture that later, it has a nasty bondo crack from a poor repair that has allowed the metal underneath to Rust
Last edited by A-FourLO; 01-05-2012 at 04:06 PM.
2002 A4 3.0 V6-6speed converted to FWD :)
(Current): 185fwhp/177fwtq
9.930 @ 72.1mph 1/8th mile
20-55mph 2nd gear street test 6.2s
(Stock): 156awhp/182awtq
10.369 @67mph, 1/8th mile
20-55mph 2nd Gear Street Test 6.6s
Dynos & Progress Thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...rogress-thread
i have been meaning to add a couple examples of "Real World" results:
I noticed when i bought the car that the intake manifold butterfly was broken so i had decided that i would do a couple tests just to see if they really helped as much as they r "supposed" to. First i removed all the dashpots and vaccuum hoses out of the way so i could create something that i could lock the butterflies in place to do the testing, now i learned that initially when the car is started that these cars pull vacuum and lock the butterflies to what i believe is the longer runners because theoretically the longer runners create more velocity and improve torque however they are not ideal for top end power, so given this i first wanted to lock the runners to the long runners first and run some tests. I first did some normal driving to see how the "seat of the pants feel" would be so i could have a basis for the short runner test. Next with the longer runners still locked open i decided to do some timed runs leaving the car in second gear from 20mph to 55mph and i went to find a flat open road. The times i came up with from the average of 3 - 5 pulls was 6.4seconds the lowest being 6.2s and the highest 6.7s. I live in miami so the weather right now is a bit cooler than normal i would say high 50s low 60s rite now and this was the weather when i did the testing and it was at night.
So i stopped and checked to make sure my locking system had not been moved and the runners were still in place and sure enuf they were. So i proceeded to change the runners to the short runner position and lock it in. Ran the same tests again and what do you know there was no change at all to the results the times were very similar. So i stopped to check to make sure the runners were still locked in the short position and yes they were. I even successfully locked the runners in the middle position and ran the test and still no changes in time and feel.
Well you may say ok the times arent accurate well possibly becuz there is a such thing as human error, but i was looking for a bigger change. So you might say well a dyno would show a change for sure. Well not quite....when i dynoed that 156awhp/182awtq i changed the butterflies around several times looking for a change and still not even a miniscule change in the numbers or curves.
I dont know much but i can tell you after these tests i will next be trying to remove the butterflies entirely to get them out of the way so there is some more airflow within the manifold cuz it seems they do nothing other than give a "better seat of pants feel" if that, and just get in the way.
I will try to get some pics of the manifold and how i locked it in. Granted its just a screw that holds the butterfly shaft so its really nothing, looks crappy but hey it works.
a quick shot of how i locked the butterflies in dont mind my professional mastery lol j/k
Thoughts?
Last edited by A-FourLO; 01-05-2012 at 04:01 PM.
2002 A4 3.0 V6-6speed converted to FWD :)
(Current): 185fwhp/177fwtq
9.930 @ 72.1mph 1/8th mile
20-55mph 2nd gear street test 6.2s
(Stock): 156awhp/182awtq
10.369 @67mph, 1/8th mile
20-55mph 2nd Gear Street Test 6.6s
Dynos & Progress Thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...rogress-thread
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Originally Posted by zz2h33
, the intake is just some spare parts i had layin around, its a blox 3 inch velocity stack with pantyhose covering it
![Dan[FN]6262's Avatar](customavatars/avatar32962_26.gif "Dan[FN]6262's Avatar"){kind=avatar}
, but for a relatively stock car i am optimistic becuz of the strong torque graph, which brings me to a theory, arent The 3.0's rated at 220hp/220tq to the engine? so given that doesnt that mean if the engine is rated at equal horsepower and torque shouldnt it make equal numbers to the wheels? Ok so looking at my graph of 156whp/182wtq there is an approximate 29% loss of horsepower to the wheels and an approximate 17% loss of torque to the wheels. Which leads me to conclude in theory that the torque numbers of this engine are severely under rated. This engine should be rated closer to the 250tq mark becuz 30% less than 250 is 180. Thoughts?
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