I protected my car from swirl marks for over 6 months by washing at touch less car washes...When I went to switch to my winter setup, the dealer gave me a free wash and free swirl marks too ! My fault as I forgot to ask them not to wash it
How did you guys take care of this issue ?
Are there any alternates to buff job ?
There are no good body shops in my area. Dealer fixed a minor dent on my car and did a horrible job with buffing the paint . I will go to the dealer only if there are no other alternate solutions.
2011 A4 P+, Titanium, P. Black, Nav, B&O
TD1, APR Stage 2+, HFC, Carbonio, LED I/L, VAG-COM, Hoen Xenon, Llumar 35%, 19x9.5 40F/35R AG M310 M.Black (Winter)
See the detailing forum. There's a multitude of threads on paint correction.
Amen. FWIW, the dealership is in the business of selling and servicing cars. I wouldn't buy a car from the car wash or let them service my vehicles. Justsayin'...
2009 A4 2.0T quattro sedan: quartz, prestige, S Line, nav APR - ADV.1 - A.W.E. - StopTech - Posi-Quiet - STaSIS - Rieger - DEVAL/EuroGear - Ingolstadt-Kunst - FormulaOne - Valentine One - KW - VCDS - OEM+
Just a warning - they probably just covered up the swirls rather than actually removing them. I would wager they used a glaze or filler wax.
When they do show up again after you've washed off their filler you might want to find a trustworthy detailer to fix it for you. I wouldn't recommend learning how to remove swirls on Audi paint, especially black.
You can find recommendations on autopia.org for professional detailers.
Just a warning - they probably just covered up the swirls rather than actually removing them. I would wager they used a glaze or filler wax.
When they do show up again after you've washed off their filler you might want to find a trustworthy detailer to fix it for you. I wouldn't recommend learning how to remove swirls on Audi paint, especially black.
You can find recommendations on autopia.org for professional detailers.
There was some white powder in the doors and trunk area. I am not sure how they did it. They have a body shop where they fix these kind of issues.
Unfortunately, my area has 90% of old/rusted cars and not many good detailers. Thanks for the site. I think I found someone there.
2011 A4 P+, Titanium, P. Black, Nav, B&O
TD1, APR Stage 2+, HFC, Carbonio, LED I/L, VAG-COM, Hoen Xenon, Llumar 35%, 19x9.5 40F/35R AG M310 M.Black (Winter)
you may want to pick up some tools to do it yourself, once the car is washed you will see it maybe worse than before.
they probably used a rotary polisher and just buffed out the area and left all that stuff in the crevices, I would remove that before that gets too hard and will become a chore to remove.
I wish you guys were in my area. There are a lot of shops in my area that promise to fix things..but in reality they are using my car to experiment their abilities.
You guys should do a ' Fly to your state ' special or something..im sure there are lots of people like me who will buy your services.
2011 A4 P+, Titanium, P. Black, Nav, B&O
TD1, APR Stage 2+, HFC, Carbonio, LED I/L, VAG-COM, Hoen Xenon, Llumar 35%, 19x9.5 40F/35R AG M310 M.Black (Winter)
If you decide to do it yourself I would suggest doing a LOT of reading first. The difference between a good detail and bad is technique, not just product choice.
PC is a good choice. I've had my 7424 for years and it's been great. Easy to learn with and very capable.
The Meg's DA kit is supposed to work well. FYI - I've read some comments that the compound/polish leaves oils behind. You'll probably want a good cleaning step after the buff and before you apply wax.
If you're going all out and doing a full detail with paint correction you might as well get Optimum Opti-Coat to seal it all in. Requires a bit of prep and care in applying but once it's on there you don't need to wax again. You'd only need to remove if you get swirls/scratches in the future that you need to remove.
My car and truck are both Opti-Coated and it rocks!
If you decide to do it yourself I would suggest doing a LOT of reading first. The difference between a good detail and bad is technique, not just product choice.
PC is a good choice. I've had my 7424 for years and it's been great. Easy to learn with and very capable.
The Meg's DA kit is supposed to work well. FYI - I've read some comments that the compound/polish leaves oils behind. You'll probably want a good cleaning step after the buff and before you apply wax.
If you're going all out and doing a full detail with paint correction you might as well get Optimum Opti-Coat to seal it all in. Requires a bit of prep and care in applying but once it's on there you don't need to wax again. You'd only need to remove if you get swirls/scratches in the future that you need to remove.
My car and truck are both Opti-Coated and it rocks!
I will have to disagree with you. Products has little to do with it, some polishes leave micro marring no matter what your technique is.
The Meg DA kit will not work on this Phantom black S4, the DA MF compound will leave micro marring and the DA MF finish will not remove it. You're doing 2 step (15-20 hrs) that's going to disappoint !!
even with opti-coat, you still need to wax after min 1 yr - max 2 yrs. and also depends how the owner treats their vehicle.
I'm going to have to disagree with you Franki, my car was done with the Meg's D300 and finished with SF4000 and I'm going to say I'm happy with the results.
We have done quite a few Brilliant and Phantom Black cars in our shop and have had great success with this combo.
yes DA 300 + Menz SF4000 = Win but I was talking about the Megs MF kit D300 + D301...
Wow the information about detailing is over whelming ! I am still reading....Mabbe next week I might muster the courage to buy something and try myself.
On another note, I decided to plastidip my whole care white to save it from salt and winter weather !
2011 A4 P+, Titanium, P. Black, Nav, B&O
TD1, APR Stage 2+, HFC, Carbonio, LED I/L, VAG-COM, Hoen Xenon, Llumar 35%, 19x9.5 40F/35R AG M310 M.Black (Winter)
I will have to disagree with you. Products has little to do with it, some polishes leave micro marring no matter what your technique is.
The Meg DA kit will not work on this Phantom black S4, the DA MF compound will leave micro marring and the DA MF finish will not remove it. You're doing 2 step (15-20 hrs) that's going to disappoint !!
even with opti-coat, you still need to wax after min 1 yr - max 2 yrs. and also depends how the owner treats their vehicle.
I won't argue with you on the Meguiars kit, I haven't used it. I will say that my Moonlight Blue S4 took a much more aggressive approach than any other car. I've done Fords, Nissans, BMW (Jet black and metallic) Subaru, VW, etc. and the Audi is the hardest I've ever worked on.
i was trying to avoid giving the OP information overload on products.
I really like Optimum products. I typically get good results with Optimum Hyper Polish Spray but saw almost zero correction with that even on an orange or yellow pad. The Optimum Hyper Compound Spray with a yellow or orange pad produced really good results though. Finished down nicely and didn't leave micromarring.
You might want to try picking up some lake country pads (I like the 5.5" size) and some Optimum Hyper Compound. Give that a shot. Unless the dealer swirls are ridiculously deep that should correct most of the damage. You could try the Hyper Polish Spray as a finish polish... I didn't notice a huge difference using that as a final step though. Maybe a teeny bit of extra gloss.
OTDetailer - you need to do more research before making that claim on Opti-Coat. You simply can't layer wax over it. It just won't stick for more than a wash.
It's also not going to wear off in 1-2 years. Maybe you're thinking of Aquartz or one of the other nano coatings. You could also be confusing it with Opti- 'Seal' which is a spray sealer rather than a permanent coating. That will last 4-6 months and you can layer it with other products. Used to be part of my arsenal before I went to Opti-Coat. Love their products but Optimum names get confusing.
Opti-Coat is PERMANENT unless you remove it with abrasives. Washing or chemicals won't remove it.
It's definitely not for everyone though. If you like the extra carnauba gloss or have fun waxing every few weeks then it's not for you. But if you like excellent protection that keeps on going and preserves your shine it's for you.
Like Phil said the swirl marks are back after i went through touchless car wash. After reading the posts i realized im in no way qualified to do this job. I will leave this to professionals. Any pros from chicago or madison can pm me and we can schedule something soon.
For now im plast dipping my whole car.
2011 A4 P+, Titanium, P. Black, Nav, B&O
TD1, APR Stage 2+, HFC, Carbonio, LED I/L, VAG-COM, Hoen Xenon, Llumar 35%, 19x9.5 40F/35R AG M310 M.Black (Winter)
. I will go to the dealer only if there are no other alternate solutions.
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Originally Posted by AofC_RR
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