lazer viking build thread

[morzechowski]

Want an anti-surge compressor housing or TiAL SS turbine housing for that?

Vband? I do I do

[viceprp]

Very nice pole barn! We are building one to store material for our expanding company. What are the plans for this building? If you need a hand finishing the concrete, I know a guy that can do it. Cough me cough.

Nice pick up on the new car. What are the specs? S4, ecodes, and BBS CH..

[Lazer Viking]

the building is a 40'x60' with 12' celings, 2 overhead 12'x12' doors and a 12'x10' overhead on the side, construction is finished just need to level off the floor and add some stone, then wait for spring to pour the concrete which will be 4" slab with 6" pads for the lift's, still need to run electric supply out there, and figure out an insulation method, most likely will be going with a 300,000btu/hr waste oil heater to keep it toasty.

what kind of finishing do you do ? im still looking for a good flooring option. was thinking about doing a colored hardener powder when its poured, and topping it off with a clear epoxy coating as a stain protection.. but i dont really know how or if that would work.

its a 2000 S4 hibiscus red, non sunroof car, ecode head and tail lights, koni coils, neuspeed sway, bbs ch's, apr stage 2+ ssac dp's and exhaust with resonated mid pipes,

[$teady$upreme]

Wonder how much you got that stage 2+ beast for?

the building is a 40'x60' with 12' celings, 2 overhead 12'x12' doors and a 12'x10' overhead on the side, construction is finished just need to level off the floor and add some stone, then wait for spring to pour the concrete which will be 4" slab with 6" pads for the lift's, still need to run electric supply out there, and figure out an insulation method, most likely will be going with a 300,000btu/hr waste oil heater to keep it toasty.

what kind of finishing do you do ? im still looking for a good flooring option. was thinking about doing a colored hardener powder when its poured, and topping it off with a clear epoxy coating as a stain protection.. but i dont really know how or if that would work.

its a 2000 S4 hibiscus red, non sunroof car, ecode head and tail lights, koni coils, neuspeed sway, bbs ch's, apr stage 2+ ssac dp's and exhaust with resonated mid pipes,

[melomandn]

the building is a 40'x60' with 12' celings, 2 overhead 12'x12' doors and a 12'x10' overhead on the side, construction is finished just need to level off the floor and add some stone, then wait for spring to pour the concrete which will be 4" slab with 6" pads for the lift's, still need to run electric supply out there, and figure out an insulation method, most likely will be going with a 300,000btu/hr waste oil heater to keep it toasty.

Sounds like a great building. Just out of curiosity with the lifts and such is this just for personal use is there a business aspect?

[viceprp]

What ki.d of anchor bolts are you using? Some kits throw 3" all the way to 7" long. I would pour those areas 2" thicker then the bolt length. Pouring atleast a 4000 mix and dont fall for that fiber shit. Structure up with 3/8" rebar or 10 ga wire mesh. Don't get the roll bc if it springs back, its not very forgiving.

If you want one solid color the go with a bag mix and not that color gardener shit. It dries out the top and makes it fun to finish. If you want some funky colors the you could have a pad poured plain with some acid staining to finish it off.

Options:
1. Color hardener - brilliant colors but "could" flake the top off over time since it does cure evenly.
2. Bag mix - added to the truck. Usually a $50 wash out charge (concrete truck) but won't flake or appear white if it chips. Unlike the color hardener.
3. Acid stain - pour regular concrete and apply afterwards. Can be don't by yourself.
4. Epoxy flake - cheap DIY kit at lowes. Roughly $75 for 150sq ft. Turns out nice but kinda looks cheap.
5. Epoxy overlay - long process but turns out awesome. Lots of show room floors are done this way.

Of course, 1 & 2 are done on day of pour and 3 - 5 afterwards. The cheapest / easiest way is #2. I don't have proper walk behind finishing trowels so I would hand trowel all of it. Bit of a pain but easily done. I'm more of a decorative concrete guy so i would actually turn that concrete into stone / brick / slate / circles .. ect.

We are doing something similar but instead on large bay door to bring in our 7500 dump.

Honestly, its all about personal preference and what you plan on doing with it. If you want to run a shop out of there then its much nicer to see color then plain Jane concrete. Plus customers would see that as a sign of cleanliness and being professional. Something they want with their cars. The diy flakes aren't as easy to clean once dirty because the flakes will trap dirt. Pressure washer or not, they wont last as long as the others.

[Lazer Viking]

Sounds like a great building. Just out of curiosity with the lifts and such is this just for personal use is there a business aspect?

Personal for now.. Could turn business at a later time

[Lazer Viking]

What ki.d of anchor bolts are you using? Some kits throw 3" all the way to 7" long. I would pour those areas 2" thicker then the bolt length. Pouring atleast a 4000 mix and dont fall for that fiber shit. Structure up with 3/8" rebar or 10 ga wire mesh. Don't get the roll bc if it springs back, its not very forgiving.

If you want one solid color the go with a bag mix and not that color gardener shit. It dries out the top and makes it fun to finish. If you want some funky colors the you could have a pad poured plain with some acid staining to finish it off.

Options:
1. Color hardener - brilliant colors but "could" flake the top off over time since it does cure evenly.
2. Bag mix - added to the truck. Usually a $50 wash out charge (concrete truck) but won't flake or appear white if it chips. Unlike the color hardener.
3. Acid stain - pour regular concrete and apply afterwards. Can be don't by yourself.
4. Epoxy flake - cheap DIY kit at lowes. Roughly $75 for 150sq ft. Turns out nice but kinda looks cheap.
5. Epoxy overlay - long process but turns out awesome. Lots of show room floors are done this way.

Of course, 1 & 2 are done on day of pour and 3 - 5 afterwards. The cheapest / easiest way is #2. I don't have proper walk behind finishing trowels so I would hand trowel all of it. Bit of a pain but easily done. I'm more of a decorative concrete guy so i would actually turn that concrete into stone / brick / slate / circles .. ect.

We are doing something similar but instead on large bay door to bring in our 7500 dump.

Honestly, its all about personal preference and what you plan on doing with it. If you want to run a shop out of there then its much nicer to see color then plain Jane concrete. Plus customers would see that as a sign of cleanliness and being professional. Something they want with their cars. The diy flakes aren't as easy to clean once dirty because the flakes will trap dirt. Pressure washer or not, they wont last as long as the others.

I would like it to be durable and not chip if I drop something on it, I also hate stains so I'm leaving toward an epoxy of sorts.. Not sure how I feel about the flakes, I would like it to stay clean, but I also don't want it do be slippery if it is wet.. The doors are south east and east facing so there will be alot of light, so I don't want there to be a blinding glare off the floor

[Lazer Viking]

As far as the anchors I am not sure.. Tr lift manufacturer recommends 6" footings for it, why do you recommend 4000 over the traditional 3500 ?

[viceprp]

Those are psi rating for the concrete. 4000 mix is a better quality but you can get by with 3500. Any finish with epoxy or a solvent based sealer will be . slightly on the shiny side but will tone down before a reseal. It would be sick to see some acid etching in there and do multiple colors. Anyhow, just let me know if you have any questions. Not sure how busy ill be but I will do what I can.

[Lazer Viking]

got an awesome quote from a local concrete guy today.. 4" @4000psi with metal reinforcement, 6" sections for lifts, and 6" aprons for door entry's with color dye added and a seal coat.. he came in a couple thousand cheaper then i was originally quoted from another company for just a bare bones 4" 3500 psi fiber reinforced un finished slab

pretty excited, now just need to pick a damn color

[goody6691]

damn son clean that thing up, i can't believe i let it get so dirty. and the tial ss exhaust side won't work since it v-band, would be sexy though

[goody6691]

oh, and i hate you , your new s4 and the awesome new building

[Lazer Viking]

You still remember your password on here?

[viceprp]

What kind of sealer?

[Lazer Viking]

It's a solvent based sealer, I do not know brand or anything else about it really

[viceprp]

If it smells like it can get you high then you know its good.

Would it be cool to swing by once yours is insulted? Would like to see how the walls we finished.

[Lazer Viking]

If it smells like it can get you high then you know its good.

Would it be cool to swing by once yours is insulted? Would like to see how the walls we finished.

He had a water based option too.. But I'm still not sold in water based coatings/paints, so I went this way.. Concrete should be going in this week, and still waiting on the big rear door that the installation company ran over with the skid loader :facepalm:

You are more then welcome to.. I still am unsure of how they are going to be finished, perhaps corrugated PVC sheets.. Metal is way too expensive, and that is just way too much sheet rock to hang

[Lazer Viking]

For those interested

[jaychen]

Wish I had a garage like that to fuck around in.

Came out real nice .

[NeedingAnAudi]

You and Bobby going in business now?

[morzechowski]

For those interested

yikes. less hdr would make the photos look better.

[Lazer Viking]

I phone shots.. They were under exposed and useless before the hdr, you can atleast see the subject matter now

[viceprp]

Broom finished exterior and smooth interior? Hard to tell from the picture.

When are you planning on installing the lifts? We tell ppl to give it 2 weeks to cure (28 day cure period) to drive on it.

[Lazer Viking]

Yea, broomed outside burnished inside.. It's difficult to get a good picture of the inside, the color is also about a shade darker then what I would have liked.. But it still looks good.

The lifts haven't been ordered yet and will probably be one of the last things to go it.. Still need to sort out electric, hang lighting, insulation, and wall covering.. Might be able to set the lifts and start moving stuff in by the end if spring, so it should be fully cured by the time anything heavy touches it

[viceprp]

Well the color won't mature til the cure time is finished. It's a good idea but not the finished product. If you want to keep that "shine" look then be sure to reseal the outside every 2-5 years (sunlight dependent) and the inside might last 5-10. We haven't sealed out basement / sunroom since we poured it 15 years ago.

[Lazer Viking]

Yea it's gotten lighter since it was poured last week.. It was almost black the day they poured it, and I was really concerned. Good to know about the re coating thanks buddy.

The excavating back filling and drainage pipe is happening this weekend

[Wet0willy01]

Looks great Nic, I'm jealous. I'll have to swing by once it's done. In the mean time you can swing by mine still.

[viceprp]

Are you going to have a gutter system? I'm guessing the backside is getting a French drain system.

Looking good man.

[Lazer Viking]

Yea, it will have gutters.. And in the back it's going to be a storm drain for now which will hopefully work.. We have alot of water issues with the attached 4.75 car garage, so alot of thought is going into keeping this one dry

[Lazer Viking]

complete change in direction for the project..

car will be getting 2.7 / 6 speed swapped, after owning a 2.7 car i have to admit that it is a spectacular motor, and i know deep down i wont be able to get the power and driveability i want out of a 4 cyl.. and with the plans i had for my car, it really wont be that much more work to stuff a 2.7 in the car

all of my 4 cyl / big turbo stuff will be for sale, please let me know what you are interested in.

[NeedingAnAudi]

So are you going to swap to dbw or change the 2.7 to cable throttle?

[Lazer Viking]

swap, car will be gutted.. changing all harnesses, suspension, brakes, drivetrain, electronics.. so i can retain oem functionality of everything, will be using an 00 s4 harness so i can forgo all of the SAI bull shit

[NeedingAnAudi]

Jeez! What about the front bumper? lol gotta keep one a4 thing right?

[Lazer Viking]

a euro a4 bumper would be pretty cool, with a pair of side mounts stuffed behind it

[NeedingAnAudi]

a euro a4 bumper would be pretty cool, with a pair of side mounts stuffed behind it

Have you seen the "Tacky?" thread in the chatterbox? We have discovered the euro bumper

[Lazer Viking]

never mind then.. everyone is gonna have one now

[M-Hood]

never mind then.. everyone is gonna have one now

Now? People have been doing those front bumpers for longer then I remember, even my friend Juan had one on his B5 A4 back in 2001. lol

[viceprp]

K04, FT,rs6, 605, 770, single turbo monster?

[Lazer Viking]

Now? People have been doing those front bumpers for longer then I remember, even my friend Juan had one on his B5 A4 back in 2001. lol

yea, but now its on here.. and soon the people of vortex will find out, and then its just going to be a downward spiral