Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 28 of 28
  1. #1
    Senior Member Four Rings wildcat333's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2011
    AZ Member #
    71493
    My Garage
    2009 Suzuki GS500F
    Location
    Seacoast NH

    Post KW V1 Coilover Suspension Adjustment

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    DIY: KW V1 (Variant 1) Coilover Suspension Adjustment

    Tools needed:
    - Custom-made wooden ramp if you are really low
    - Car jack
    - Jack stands
    - Wheel chocks
    - OEM Audi lug bolt wrench; or breaker bar with 17mm socket for OEM lug size
    - 2 KW coil wrenches (rear and front)
    - Ratchet (I used my 3/8”drive ratchet, but it could be whatever ratchet drive you prefer).
    - 3/8" hex socket
    - 10" socket extension
    - A small hex screwdriver (a.k.a. Allen) of unknown size. Note: a T10 torx screwdriver will work.
    - WD-40; or PB Blaster
    - Shop towels
    - Tape measure
    - Paper/pencil

    Difficulty:
    It really depends on your skill and experience. Difficult first attempt; should be easier next time. Block off at least 3-4 hours for your first time. Maybe 1-2 hours your second time.

    How-to guide with pics:

    Loosen the lugs on the wheels you plan to remove soon. They will need to be loose enough so you can remove them while the car is in the air on the jack stands.

    Since my car was too low, the car jack would not fit under the front end of my car. I had a board cut up for me at a hardware store into 1' wide blocks. The tires measure approximately 9" wide, so it was perfect. The first level of the ramp is 1.5" in height from the ground, and the second level of the ramp is 3.0" in height from the ground. This gave me the needed clearance to get the car jack underneath.



    With the car on my custom wooden ramp, I was able to get the car jack underneath the car. SAFETY FIRST: Before you start to jack anything up, make sure your car is in park, and your emergency brake is on (while you are on the little wooden ramps, or on the ground if you don't need the wooden ramps). Using wheel chocks on the rears while you jack up the front is also a good idea, and vice versa, for added safety.

    You will find the proper hard metal that's maybe 8" long behind the front wheels for the front, and in front of the rear wheels for the rear. Typically these are beat up already, since your car has been on a lift or jack before, which is fine. Once the car is up high enough, slide your jack stands onto the jack metal area underneath the car (right beside your car jack). Very slowly, release the pressure in your car jack, allowing your car to slowly put all the weight on the jack stand. I used 3-ton jack stands, but that probably isn't necessarily needed (you could use lower weight stands I'm sure). Once securely on the jack stand, remove the car jack, and repeat until you are on all 4 jack stands. If you only have 2 jack stands, do your fronts first, then your rears.





    Using your OEM Audi lug wrench from your trunk tool kit, pop the center cap off, and remove your wheels. Alternatively, you could use a breaker bar with a 17mm socket for OEM lug size.





    Now for the "fun" part. My goal here was to raise my car up approximately one inch in preparation for the winter. This DIY can also be used to lower your car, just make sure you check your measurements, and also make sure you are spinning the coil parts the correct way.

    The red/bold font is for a reason. I thought I knew what I was doing, but made the critical error of accidentally lowering my car one inch in the front without realizing it until both front coils were "done," wheels were put back on, taken off jack stands, and put back onto the ground. I wanted to cry. I am now "over" my mistake, and simply wanted to share this waste of time and energy so people actually take note of what you are doing.

    KW coilover kits come with 2 coilover wrenches. The larger one is for the front, and the smaller one is for the rear.




    Spray the hell out of your the coil silver spirals and the purple coil perch with WD-40 or PB-Blaster. Let it soak in a bit, then wipe it clean with a cloth. You want the purple coil perch to be as dry as possible so the coil wrench does not slip out. It's ok to have the lube on the silver spirals though, probably want it lubed actually. Try to get all the dirt and grime clean before you attempt to spin the purple coil perch knob.






    FRONT ADJUSTMENTS:

    Use a T10 torx screwdriver to remove the little screw from each side’s purple coil perch. This screw is designed to prevent the perch from moving, so removing this is key and will make your adjustments easier.


    Taking the large coilover wrench, fit it into the notches in the purple coil perch.

    To raise the car up (winter-mode we will call it), move the coil tool to the right (knob goes up, higher towards the car).

    To lower the car down (summer-mode), move the coil tool to the left (knob goes down, closer to the ground).


    My front FTG (fender-to-ground) measurements were 25.0" FTG while lowered (summer-mode). The following picture is a measurement of the summer-mode coil setup. It measured 2.25" from the bottom of the purple coil perch to the end of the silver spiral threads at the bottom. Write your measurements down before you start adjusting, so you can revert back at a later time if you want.



    Summer-mode:



    Turning the coil tool can be a pain in the ass, as you can only do partial turns, and it will just take some time and patience. If it's properly lubed up, it will be a lot smoother. You will eventually get in a groove, and better understand how to quickly turn and find the grooves with the coil tool.

    To totally slam it (slam-mode) to 24" FTG, you will want to lower the purple coil perch down so only 1.25" of spiral is between it and the end of the spirals.



    Slam-mode:



    For winter-mode, I raised it to its max height. I might not go as high next winter, but I'm definitely not changing it this year. Some people argue against raising it at all, but I live in NH, and the roads here are absolute shit - potholes, frost-heaves (large bumps in pavement due to the temps), snow, ice chunks, etc. I figured I'll play it conservative this year at least. Anyhow, I raised it up to its max height of 25.75" FTG, and the measurement from the purple coil perch to the bottom of the spirals was 3.0".



    Once the fronts are where you want them, put the wheels back on, put the car jack under the car, raise it a little, remove jack stand, make sure the wooden ramps are under your wheels (definitely needed if you just lowered it or are low), slowly release the pressure off the car jack, lower the car into the wooden ramps, remove car jack, put car in reverse, slowly drive backwards off the wooden ramps.



    Winter-mode:



    Front is complete.

    Videos of the front adjustments:

    RAudiB7A4’s video:


    My video (wildcat333):



    ************************************************** ************************************************** **********

    REAR ADJUSTMENTS:

    05/05/14 update:
    Hi guys. Here is an update on how to adjust your rear KW V1 coilover suspension. A huge thanks goes to user “RAudiB7A4” and “aluthman” for their ideas and help. The thread where this started is here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...uestions/page3 . I successfully utilized this method, and it worked flawlessly.

    With the car on jack stands, and the rear wheels removed, you can now start to look at what we are dealing with. Fold the little piece of carpet-like fender material up, because you will need to have access to get your coil tool up in there. Alternatively, you can use a Dremel with cutting wheel (or a utility knife) to cut away that the carpet piece so you will never have to deal with it again.





    You will need a ratchet. I used my favorite 3/8” Drive Ratchet. Attached to that was a 10” socket extension. And on the tip of that extension was a 3/8” Hex (a.k.a. Allen) bit socket – pictured here:


    Ratchet position for summer-mode to lower the car:


    It would be on the other side for winter-mode to raise the car.

    You put the extension with hex bit up through the bottom of the rear control arms. Insert the hex bit into the black plastic piece that has the threads on it. The 3/8” hex bit should fit perfectly snug in there.

    Take your coilover wrench (a.k.a. spanner wrench; a.k.a. crescent wrench) and grip the purple metal coilover perch. You will need to be on the left side of this piece for summer-mode; or right side for winter-mode. You are not spinning the spanner wrench at all, but rather just holding on tight, and preventing the purple coil perch from moving at all.

    You will be using your ratchet now to spin the black coil piece with threads. The higher up the black piece with threads moves up towards the car, the lower the car’s ride height will be. I left 15mm between the absolute top and the purple coil perch. This left me right at 24.5” FTG (fender-to-ground measurement). This is my summer-mode setup.















    *****
    Pics of winter-mode setup:

    I raised my car to the max height, by moving the knob to the lowest level of spirals possible. Winter-mode:



    The rears are now approx 26.0" FTG. All ready for winter now:



    *****

    Once your coil purple perch is in place where you want, throw your wheels back on, and put it back on the ground.

    Rears are complete.

    Many people have advised me that a proper torque wrench would be good, so the lugs can be put back onto the wheel with the proper torque... so that would be a good idea too. I’ve been advised between 95-100 foot-lbs is the proper spec. 95 seems to be a good number from my experience. If you don't have one, the OEM Audi lug wrench will work for now (that's what I used for a while until I got a torque wrench). Just make sure you really put some muscle into the lugs so they won't fly off while driving later.
    Now would be a good time to get an alignment - it will be worth it so you don’t ruin your tires.

    My videos for the rear adjustment.
    1 of 2:


    2 of 2:


    *****************
    For people interested more in my KW V1 review with more pics:
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...now-%28pics%29

    For those interested in my true rear coil adjustment terror and freaking out:
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...44#post6910744

    I hope this helps. The reason I wrote this is because KW doesn't seem to offer actual real instructions (barely anything in English); and I did not find anything of substance (or with pics) online prior to my adjustments.

    Let me know if I need to edit anything please, and I will. Hope this helps a few people.

    *************
    Last edited by wildcat333; 05-06-2014 at 04:25 AM.
    2008 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro | Light Silver | S-Line | Automatic-Tiptronic | GIAC Stage 1+ | Autotech HPFP | 135 bar PRV | 35% Tint | KW V1 Coilovers | RS4 RSB | Evolution Thor Skid Plate | 6000K Bi-Xenons | Clear-Corner Mod | 6000K LED City Lights | LED DRLs | Paint-Matched Sidemarkers | 6000K HID Fogs | Interior LEDs | Rear Plate LEDs | Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads | Goodridge SS Lines | Spacers: 17.5F/20R | Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner | Hardwired 8500 X50

  2. #2
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Apr 25 2011
    AZ Member #
    74614
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    I should have read this a long time ago! When I did my rears I dropped the whole sub-frame and then did the same thing you did... so stupid. Nice write up.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charlescrs6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 28 2008
    AZ Member #
    33539
    My Garage
    E46 M3 'Vert
    Location
    Darien, CT/ Bristol, RI

    Nice write up. For the rears, I prefer to use a long 12" extension with a ratchet through the subframe to adjust them. I think it's slightly easier. None the less, good write up.
    Current: E46 ///M3 Convertible
    Past: 2004 Audi A4 1.8TQM: KW-APR-OEM+, 2003 Audi A4 3.0

  4. #4
    Active Member One Ring Zridder19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 20 2011
    AZ Member #
    78542
    Location
    Stuart, FL

    How much more adjustment is still left in the rear to go lower?
    '08 A4 Quattro S-Line blk/blk 6 speed

  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings wildcat333's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2011
    AZ Member #
    71493
    My Garage
    2009 Suzuki GS500F
    Location
    Seacoast NH

    Quote Originally Posted by Zridder19 View Post
    How much more adjustment is still left in the rear to go lower?
    Assuming you are asking to lower the car... the lowest possible for me was 24.5" FTG (purple perch knob at the top in the rears). It was maxed out.
    2008 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro | Light Silver | S-Line | Automatic-Tiptronic | GIAC Stage 1+ | Autotech HPFP | 135 bar PRV | 35% Tint | KW V1 Coilovers | RS4 RSB | Evolution Thor Skid Plate | 6000K Bi-Xenons | Clear-Corner Mod | 6000K LED City Lights | LED DRLs | Paint-Matched Sidemarkers | 6000K HID Fogs | Interior LEDs | Rear Plate LEDs | Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads | Goodridge SS Lines | Spacers: 17.5F/20R | Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner | Hardwired 8500 X50

  6. #6
    Registered Member Four Rings BoSNiaN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 02 2011
    AZ Member #
    76367
    My Garage
    2012 Benz ML350, 2007 BMW 325xi, 2006 Audi A4 2.0T
    Location
    Canada



    ^LOOOOOOOOOOL, that is fucking genius....nice DIY btw. Although I'm not interested in lowering my car, these home made ramps give me some great ideas
    2006 A4 2.0T 6 SPD MT // Dolphin Grey on Black // Sport + Premium Package // Quattro

    ==> Complete Mod List <==

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings Audi_509's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 20 2010
    AZ Member #
    59269
    My Garage
    2008 A4
    Location
    Eastern WA

    Great write.

    Quote Originally Posted by BoSNiaN View Post
    ^LOOOOOOOOOOL, that is fucking genius....nice DIY btw. Although I'm not interested in lowering my car, these home made ramps give me some great ideas
    I use this method (actually one piece of wood for each ramp) when I use my Rhino ramps.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Korrect414's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 11 2004
    AZ Member #
    71
    Location
    Laguna Beach

    Thanks for the write up. This will definitely come in handy.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Four Rings fordyoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 20 2011
    AZ Member #
    74329
    Location
    Boston/philly

    excellent write up.

    thanks so much, i have been itchin to find something like this. looks like i know what im doing this weekend.
    Borg Warner EFR6758 B7 A4

  10. #10
    Established Member Three Rings jmarch1122's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 13 2011
    AZ Member #
    72322
    Location
    MA, USA

    1. You said you used a 3/8" allen-but shouldnt it be metric? If I have to buy one id like to know the real size.

    2. charles, can you explain your method for the rears in more detail?
    Mauritius Blue 2.0T quattro

    GT3071R, AutoSpeed Tuned, VAST S3 Clutch w/ LWFW, HPFP.com S2, RS4 injectors, V-Flow intake, Hallman MBC, DO's W/M, Forge 008, KW V3, H&R Sway Bars, Neuspeed, AWE, JHM
    DTM front, Deval rear and sides, JL HD750/1, JL 10w7

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings mr shickadance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 08 2010
    AZ Member #
    61203
    My Garage
    tucson
    Location
    danbury
    Items for Sale

    everything on our cars is metric.....but the coils are aftermarket, it could very well be metric as well, but being that its aftermarket it does have the chance to be imperial


    it looks like he folded the bed liner, and basically used the allen key to hold the perch, while he used the "coil over crescent wrench" to spin it down


    i could imagine that the use of lots of WD 40, and renting a spring compressor could turn this 3-4 hour job into a 1-2 hour job bc if you can release the tension from the front springs, you could very easily spin the perch with your hands....im sure most of his time was consumed by the constant fiddling with the crescent wrench....those things can be a serious pain in the ass
    Scott

    2011 S4

    America is all about speed, hot, nasty, bad-ass speed - Eleanor Roosevelt

    DIY: How to make yourself look like an idiot.


  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings mr shickadance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 08 2010
    AZ Member #
    61203
    My Garage
    tucson
    Location
    danbury
    Items for Sale

    things i forgot to say

    1) amazing write up....well written, easy to follow and to the point

    2) i think you should add that you really ought to get an alignment after this is done as you should with anything suspension related
    Scott

    2011 S4

    America is all about speed, hot, nasty, bad-ass speed - Eleanor Roosevelt

    DIY: How to make yourself look like an idiot.


  13. #13
    Senior Member Four Rings wildcat333's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2011
    AZ Member #
    71493
    My Garage
    2009 Suzuki GS500F
    Location
    Seacoast NH

    Thanks guys

    I added the alignment comment to the end of the DIY, good suggestion. As for the 3/8 piece... I don't have my tool set where I am right now, but I could check on it later, or if schizzy is around and sees this, he might be able to better explain the piece.
    2008 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro | Light Silver | S-Line | Automatic-Tiptronic | GIAC Stage 1+ | Autotech HPFP | 135 bar PRV | 35% Tint | KW V1 Coilovers | RS4 RSB | Evolution Thor Skid Plate | 6000K Bi-Xenons | Clear-Corner Mod | 6000K LED City Lights | LED DRLs | Paint-Matched Sidemarkers | 6000K HID Fogs | Interior LEDs | Rear Plate LEDs | Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads | Goodridge SS Lines | Spacers: 17.5F/20R | Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner | Hardwired 8500 X50

  14. #14
    Senior Member Four Rings fordyoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 20 2011
    AZ Member #
    74329
    Location
    Boston/philly

    did this today on my fronts. i have ST coilovers. extremely easy after reading your DIY. not sure what to expect when i try the rears tomorrow...
    Borg Warner EFR6758 B7 A4

  15. #15
    Forum Moderator Four Rings kristokes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 03 2007
    AZ Member #
    14586
    My Garage
    VW/Audi
    Location
    NNJ
    Items for Sale

    Moved.
    Stokes - Moderator, Audizine

    SLOWHTE | UNITRONIC
    .:R | UNITEDMOTORSPORT

  16. #16
    Senior Member Four Rings Schweini's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 12 2011
    AZ Member #
    81157
    My Garage
    '08 A4 2.0, '08 VW Golf
    Location
    Hamilton Ontario
    Items for Sale

    Thanks for the DIY dude, I couldn't understand why my damn rears didn't want to lower lol. So is it a 3/8" Allen key for ST's also?
    2008 A4 S-line 2.0T
    APR Stage 2+


  17. #17
    Senior Member Four Rings wildcat333's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2011
    AZ Member #
    71493
    My Garage
    2009 Suzuki GS500F
    Location
    Seacoast NH

    Quote Originally Posted by Schweini View Post
    Thanks for the DIY dude, I couldn't understand why my damn rears didn't want to lower lol. So is it a 3/8" Allen key for ST's also?
    no problem. I haven't touched ST's, but from what I hear, yes - it should be the same/similar parts.
    2008 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro | Light Silver | S-Line | Automatic-Tiptronic | GIAC Stage 1+ | Autotech HPFP | 135 bar PRV | 35% Tint | KW V1 Coilovers | RS4 RSB | Evolution Thor Skid Plate | 6000K Bi-Xenons | Clear-Corner Mod | 6000K LED City Lights | LED DRLs | Paint-Matched Sidemarkers | 6000K HID Fogs | Interior LEDs | Rear Plate LEDs | Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads | Goodridge SS Lines | Spacers: 17.5F/20R | Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner | Hardwired 8500 X50

  18. #18
    Senior Member Four Rings Schweini's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 12 2011
    AZ Member #
    81157
    My Garage
    '08 A4 2.0, '08 VW Golf
    Location
    Hamilton Ontario
    Items for Sale

    Why thank you
    2008 A4 S-line 2.0T
    APR Stage 2+


  19. #19
    Senior Member Four Rings fordyoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 20 2011
    AZ Member #
    74329
    Location
    Boston/philly

    i only had 1 coilover wrench for my ST's, but i was able to do the fronts and rears with it. not sure if it came with 1 or two to be honest. maybe i lost one?
    Borg Warner EFR6758 B7 A4

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings Adub-Drew's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 07 2010
    AZ Member #
    54631
    Location
    Wilton, CT

    Just wondering if anyone knows if the st's have their perches mounted on top just like the v1's? I know they are "exact same design" to the v1, just want to be sure 100% before buying..
    Team ACE - CT
    MODS: Custom K&N cone filter/heat shielding, Luminics 3000k fogs, ST coilovers ( Front 24.2", Rear 24.5" FTG ), RA mudflaps, Audi rack, Thule fairing/bike rack, Yakima ski rack)

  21. #21
    Senior Member Three Rings pDubs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 12 2012
    AZ Member #
    86552
    My Garage
    2005 Kawasaki ZX6R, 1973 Honda CB350F
    Location
    Fairfax, VA

    I have a quick question for anybody really. I have koni coilovers and the rears are all the way down. In your pics your adjusment thing on the rear that is purple... could I just take that out completely to go a little lower. My front is at barely over 24" ftg and the rear is like 24.3. Thanks!

  22. #22
    Senior Member Four Rings wildcat333's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2011
    AZ Member #
    71493
    My Garage
    2009 Suzuki GS500F
    Location
    Seacoast NH

    Quote Originally Posted by pDubs View Post
    I have a quick question for anybody really. I have koni coilovers and the rears are all the way down. In your pics your adjusment thing on the rear that is purple... could I just take that out completely to go a little lower. My front is at barely over 24" ftg and the rear is like 24.3. Thanks!
    I don't think you could realistically do that. The purple perch thing that you are talking about it what allows these coilovers to be adjustable - it is what spins down the black spiral. It is also what the top of the spring is touching. I mean anything is possible theoretically, but I can't suggest that you actually do that pdubs.
    2008 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro | Light Silver | S-Line | Automatic-Tiptronic | GIAC Stage 1+ | Autotech HPFP | 135 bar PRV | 35% Tint | KW V1 Coilovers | RS4 RSB | Evolution Thor Skid Plate | 6000K Bi-Xenons | Clear-Corner Mod | 6000K LED City Lights | LED DRLs | Paint-Matched Sidemarkers | 6000K HID Fogs | Interior LEDs | Rear Plate LEDs | Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads | Goodridge SS Lines | Spacers: 17.5F/20R | Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner | Hardwired 8500 X50

  23. #23
    Senior Member Four Rings wildcat333's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2011
    AZ Member #
    71493
    My Garage
    2009 Suzuki GS500F
    Location
    Seacoast NH

    05/05/14 update -
    I updated the rear adjustment section to a much better method.
    I also slightly tweaked the front adjustments as well.
    Let me know if there are questions.
    2008 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro | Light Silver | S-Line | Automatic-Tiptronic | GIAC Stage 1+ | Autotech HPFP | 135 bar PRV | 35% Tint | KW V1 Coilovers | RS4 RSB | Evolution Thor Skid Plate | 6000K Bi-Xenons | Clear-Corner Mod | 6000K LED City Lights | LED DRLs | Paint-Matched Sidemarkers | 6000K HID Fogs | Interior LEDs | Rear Plate LEDs | Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads | Goodridge SS Lines | Spacers: 17.5F/20R | Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner | Hardwired 8500 X50

  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2009
    AZ Member #
    37322
    My Garage
    E90, A3, A4
    Location
    SoCal
    Items for Sale

    FRONT ADJUSTMENTS:
    Use a T10 torx screwdriver to remove the little screw from each side’s purple coil perch. This screw is designed to prevent the perch from moving, so removing this is key and will make your adjustments easier.
    Should note that the retaining grub screw on the front adjusting perch is actually an Allen hex and not a torx. This applies to ST coilovers as well.

  25. #25
    Senior Member Four Rings wildcat333's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2011
    AZ Member #
    71493
    My Garage
    2009 Suzuki GS500F
    Location
    Seacoast NH

    Quote Originally Posted by A3DLE View Post
    Should note that the retaining grub screw on the front adjusting perch is actually an Allen hex and not a torx. This applies to ST coilovers as well.
    Thank you sir. I will update the original post.
    Either way, it's a tiny screw.
    2008 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro | Light Silver | S-Line | Automatic-Tiptronic | GIAC Stage 1+ | Autotech HPFP | 135 bar PRV | 35% Tint | KW V1 Coilovers | RS4 RSB | Evolution Thor Skid Plate | 6000K Bi-Xenons | Clear-Corner Mod | 6000K LED City Lights | LED DRLs | Paint-Matched Sidemarkers | 6000K HID Fogs | Interior LEDs | Rear Plate LEDs | Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads | Goodridge SS Lines | Spacers: 17.5F/20R | Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner | Hardwired 8500 X50

  26. #26
    Established Member Three Rings 2pointOh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 08 2013
    AZ Member #
    134578
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Items for Sale

    Just so its clear, the bottom rear bolt for adjusting the rears on STs is an Allen, just got mine in today.

    Also, @Wildcat333, when I install these STs, do you think I can just adjust them to where you had your threads for summer during install and then they'll settle to where I'd like it? I wanna go 25" FTG so I'd up yours a bit. I don't want to go too low as this will be my first time doing it and I don't want do something stupid I'll regret like not recognizing a pothole in time or whatever. Buffalo roads are ass. When I move to Lauderdale I'll slam the thing.

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by 2pointOh; 06-17-2014 at 09:47 PM.
    2001 1.8t A4... totaled.
    2000 1.8t Passat... sold.
    2006 2.0t A4... currently enjoying.

  27. #27
    Senior Member Four Rings wildcat333's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2011
    AZ Member #
    71493
    My Garage
    2009 Suzuki GS500F
    Location
    Seacoast NH

    Ya 2pointoh... Maybe assume they will settle about 1/4" in about 1-2 weeks time max. They adjust as needed if you want. Then get an alignment.
    2008 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro | Light Silver | S-Line | Automatic-Tiptronic | GIAC Stage 1+ | Autotech HPFP | 135 bar PRV | 35% Tint | KW V1 Coilovers | RS4 RSB | Evolution Thor Skid Plate | 6000K Bi-Xenons | Clear-Corner Mod | 6000K LED City Lights | LED DRLs | Paint-Matched Sidemarkers | 6000K HID Fogs | Interior LEDs | Rear Plate LEDs | Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads | Goodridge SS Lines | Spacers: 17.5F/20R | Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner | Hardwired 8500 X50

  28. #28
    Established Member Three Rings 2pointOh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 08 2013
    AZ Member #
    134578
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Items for Sale

    Quote Originally Posted by wildcat333 View Post
    Ya 2pointoh... Maybe assume they will settle about 1/4" in about 1-2 weeks time max. They adjust as needed if you want. Then get an alignment.
    Cool, so I'll just up your thread measurements a bit so its a little higher and then it'll settle in nicely to hopefully 25". Thanks!

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
    2001 1.8t A4... totaled.
    2000 1.8t Passat... sold.
    2006 2.0t A4... currently enjoying.



Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2014 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.