Want to make some powahhh

[ZimbutheMonkey]

X2 on what Mike said. Hearing an audible bubbling is normal. Problem is without hearing it on yours I couldn't hazard a guess as too if it's normal or not. Like Mike said, a leakdown test will be a better indicator of what's really going on.

[jaychen]

On a leak down test does each cylinder have to be at TDC for it to work correctly?

[M-Hood]

Yes it does becaues the valves need to be closed and the piston need to be at the top.

[bmarshall]

Are you comparing these cylinder pressures with hot or cold engine?

[M-Hood]

Are you comparing these cylinder pressures with hot or cold engine?

He has already answered that, check post #7.

Yes motor was done hot and it was cranked atleast 10 times to ensure max pressure was read.

[aaronamerica]

I can't wait to see end results of this thread....keep us posted

[jaychen]

Next line of action is :

replace Camshaft position sensor
try to crank, if it runs then
check for codes
if it doesn't start or run
leak down test
pull motor.

[themadscientist]

If your cam sensor code returns after replacing it, then there's a good chance your timing is off.

[spindoctor]

Next line of action is :

Replace camshaft position sensor
try to crank, if it runs then
Clear codes, do leak down test

if it doesn't run
check cam timing, do leak down test and if necessary, strip down motor.

Fixed :D

[jaychen]

Haha thanks danny

[jaychen]

SO i replaced my camshaft position sensor, it did nothing.

I haven't had access to a VAG-COM yet so will wait to see if the code is gone.

Here are some pictures of my timing belt though, what are your thoughts. One set of marks is way off, another is on..

While I was bored the other day with nothing much to do, I refurbished my grill :)

[Crispy222]

Not sure what your trying to show with the marks being off between the cam gear and the VC notch. But the those marks should line up or within 1/2 tooth WHEN the crank pulley mark and lower timing belt cover mark are also lines up. You'll have to use a flash light to look down the front of the engine to see the notch in the crank pulley and the raised line on the front of the timing belt cover. You can also look into the window on the top of the bell of the transmission. There should be a visible mark on the flywheel there lines up with an arrow or notch on the housing. I could not find a photo of either of these nor could I locate the AZ DIY for B5 A4s.



If the crank and the cams are not correctly in time within 1-2 teeth, its guaranteed you have bent valves. That does explain why you would get low compression but does not explain why you would get decent wet compression. I would bet that you'll be pulling the head off this car before its running correctly again.

[jaychen]

I'm trying to show that there are two separate lines on my belt and cam gear and that one set of the lines, they are lined up. On the other set, they are slightly off.

Ill start pulling the front off my car tonight and get more photos. Hopefully I can be back on the road before Christmas

[Crispy222]

I'm pretty sure those lines are only for installation. If you keep turning the motor over, eventually they will line up. But they will not line up every time the engine turns over.

[walky_talky20]

I don't see in any of your photos where anything is lining up with the notch on the valve cover. Which photo was taken with the crank set to TDC (notch in engine plastic front cover)?

[jaychen]

I was referring to the variances between the mark on the actual timing belt and the cam gear. Not between anything else. Over the next few days ill post photos of the timing between the crank, cam gear and vc.

[walky_talky20]

Yeah, the mark on the belt means nothing, just an aid the tech used when installing it. Once it goes around once, it's meaningless. Crank mark is plenty visible by just popping the hood. No need to tear into anything.

[jaychen]

Wouldn't it be easier to see if the belt had jumped on the cam gear though, I just 'assumed' the belt would be more likely to jump on the cam gear than crank.I can understand what you're saying.. It just made sense in my head.

[bmarshall]

Are the photos of the cam gear at TDC? If so you have the gear around the wrong way! There is a recent post on this, although you have to break the key off the wheel to get it on the wrong way.

[Crispy222]

Its more likely the belt would jump the crank pulley. There is far less teeth to belt down there then up top.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Are the photos of the cam gear at TDC? If so you have the gear around the wrong way! There is a recent post on this, although you have to break the key off the wheel to get it on the wrong way.

My build thread near the bottom of the page is where it was posted http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...d-(pics)/page4 Although if he has the side with no writing facing forward, he should be OK.

[jaychen]

Ok,

So it looks like my timing is off.

These photos are taken when the crank is TDC and cyl 1 is right at the top of the revolution.

The actual mark on the cam gear from factory was almost half the way around eg 180 degrees away from the mark on the vc.

[rockersteady]

You are most likely still 360 degrees away from TDC firing stroke. Turn the crank one more turn clockwise looking from front and you can see IF the pulley has slipped.
TDC1 on crank and TCD1 firing on cam (both in and EX closed) sets of marks will line up

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Sounds like it's right on, like rockersteady said, you've got either 1) compression or 2) exhaust stroke. Just don't get them mixed up if you're rebuilding your engine lol.

[jaychen]

Lol yep, rocker was right on. So timing isn't the issue.

I was hoping that would explain its inability to start, hopefully the internals hold the answer.

[cory.smith]

Just by looking at the timing thing, I've got a feeling that this build thread is gonna be fun.

-Cory

[jaychen]

Have faith Cory.

Fault code:

00515 - Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40): Open or Short to Plus
Possible Causes
Wiring to Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40) faulty
Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40) Installation faulty
Camshaft Timing Out of Specification
Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Wiring to Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40)
Check/Replace Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40)
Check Camshaft Timing
Check/Replace Engine Control Module

I have replaced the camshaft position sensor and checked timing obviously. I am yet to check wiring but I was told that if the cam chain has skipped a tooth it throws this code as well?

[bmarshall]

Unplug the sensor and check with a multimeter the 5volt supply and signal ground wire. You can buzz all 3 wires to the ecu pins aswell.

[jaychen]

So I just did that B, I got 12v, 5v and a ground at the plug.

I then buzzed them through to the pins at the ecu harness. Everything was fine although my ground buzzed through to two different pins?

I have attached photos.


I haven't re-checked for codes since I put the new Camshaft Position Sensor in yet so I would like to see if the code is still there.

Another weird thing is that I cannot audibly hear my fuel pump priming when the key hits the acc notch.. Any ways to test the pump or do I just get a new one and be done with it?

[jaychen]

So I swapped the old K04 chip out of my ECU and put the stock one back in and wallah.

Throttle body made some noise, fuel pump primed, turn the key and it started first go.

It was not healthy by any means but its definitely a good start.

[gmx]

Good news

Was VAGCOM communicating with the ECU easily or intermittent no response from controller?
Is the chip a socket or straight replacement onto the board? I had similar issues when the tuner's replacement socket&chip was not making proper contact. (No priming, no TB adaption/noise etc).

[jaychen]

not sure about vagcom GMX but it was a socket+chip, no fault of the installer though.. it was already in there from a previous owner.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Lol yep, rocker was right on. So timing isn't the issue.

Don't feel too bad about that, if it's any consolation, if I had a nickel for every time I had made a worse assumption than you did over the last 18 years I spent learning to work on cars I'd be shitting on Donald Trump.

[aaronamerica]

Ok,

So it looks like my timing is off.

These photos are taken when the crank is TDC and cyl 1 is right at the top of the revolution.

The actual mark on the cam gear from factory was almost half the way around eg 180 degrees away from the mark on the vc.

Did you ever recheck or turn the motor one more time because those pics are showing your like 4-5 teeth off

[bmarshall]

Second that. Get that cam/valve cover off and check it properly.

[jaychen]

That was at the top of exhaust stroke, one more turn of the crank bought the cam gear around spot on with the notch on the vc. I am going to pull the vc today though anyway. Im just happy it started, now i can actually start the rebuild.

[jaychen]

http://vimeo.com/30826863

a short video explaining how bad my idle is, you can hear how it sounds like there is no oil in the head or the big end bearings are gone.

look at my vac reading as well.. that is after pressure testing as well, no leaks anywhere.

[aaronamerica]

I couldn't see the video via my phone but i will check it when i get home, What codes are you getting now after replacing the cam sensor?

[jaychen]

I haven't done a scan yet, Saturday morning is the earliest the car can be scanned. I don't own a VAG-COM or a cable, a buddy of mine does and he has been helping me out with this all alot so he said he will pop by on the weekend.

[Crispy222]

I watched the video. Its hard to believe it will even stay running with no vacuum. Do you have to keep your foot on the gas peddle? Pressure test the system. I would bet you have a leak somewhere, PCV, intake manifold, vacuum lines. If you still have the oem cloth cover vacuum lines, get some silicon hose. The oem lines will crack inside the cloth and you won't be able to see it.

Read these:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...st-Leak-Tester
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ng-Boost-Leaks

What you're looking for is not really a boost leak, but a plain leak somewhere after the throttle body. So if you wanted to, you could connect up pressurized air to the throttle body and pressurize just the manifold,head,motor. IIRC, put the engine at #1 TDC when testing. If the boost/vacuum gauge is correctly connected to the intake manifold (most ppl tee into the vacuum line going from the IM to the FPR), you can use this as the gauge while pressurizing the system to determine what pressure it is at (<20psi) and if you are leaking somewhere. Either have someone else watch it or move the gauge under the hood while testing. GL