Want to make some powahhh

[jaychen]

Thanks Mitch. Maybe he could ask if they could email him the file, then he could pass it on to me. That would definitely work

[Gbomer]

now.. i know there are more photo's.. so post em

[jaychen]

[redline380]

lookin awefully good! I certainly approve. but where did that black oil dipstick come from? you paint yourelf or where you buy it? my orange one is killing my green/black theme

[Gbomer]

gawd that looks shmick.. how much time do you have on your hands to get all this work done

[jaychen]

haha still studying fulltime and working 25hrs a week.. just make time bro.

I just painted that bad boy.. I figured it would look pretty out of place being orange..

Thanks guys.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

I'd suggest looking into a .64 A/R turbine housing. The .82 housings really don't add much in terms of power, but they do increase spool 500+ RPM.

[jaychen]

Yeh , I know I should..

I will try hang around the local jap import forums to see if i can find one cheap since SR20's are T25...

It wont be going on a for a little while yet, stil need new oil lines, alter my dump pipe, engine needs to be run in, send my cable back to CTapp..

[M-Hood]

Yeh , I know I should..

I will try hang around the local jap import forums to see if i can find one cheap since SR20's are T25...

It wont be going on a for a little while yet, stil need new oil lines, alter my dump pipe, engine needs to be run in, send my cable back to CTapp..

Just make sure you get the right T25 exhaust housing, Garrett offers a different style T25 housing for the Nissan's.

[jaychen]

I will.

Mike,

I have a slight problem..

When I measured my clutch kit for you, obviously it was within the spec to be able to use a stock height throwout bearing, my engine builder had to chop about 1/4'' - 1/2'' off every flywheel bolt because they were too long.

Now , I suspect my overall stack height is shorter than OEM, does this now mean that my input shaft is not going to reach all the way inside the flywheel?

Where can I find a spacer to space my clutch kit back out to use OEM length flywheel bolts? Do I need to do this?

edit: email me if need be..

[M-Hood]

I will.

Mike,

I have a slight problem..

When I measured my clutch kit for you, obviously it was within the spec to be able to use a stock height throwout bearing, my engine builder had to chop about 1/4'' - 1/2'' off every flywheel bolt because they were too long.

Now , I suspect my overall stack height is shorter than OEM, does this now mean that my input shaft is not going to reach all the way inside the flywheel?

Where can I find a spacer to space my clutch kit back out to use OEM length flywheel bolts? Do I need to do this?

edit: email me if need be..

The bolt length doesn't really have anything to do with the stack height, it has to do with how thick the flywheel is where the bolts go thru it. Stack height for the flywheel has to do with how thick it is from the back side of the flywheel where it mounts to the crank flange and the top of the flywheel were the PP is going to sit. So you really want to measure the whole thing with the flywheel, PP and TOB all stacked on top of each other.

Was it OEM bolts that he cut or aftermarket and is it a OEM flywheel or aftermarket flywheel? Because you cant use OEM bolts on a aftermarket flywheel since most aftermarket single mass flywheels have a thinner center section where the bolts to thru the flywheel which means it uses shorter bolts. The ARP bolts I use on the 1.8t aftermarket flywheels is only .8" long under the head and the CM bolts that come with their A4 1.8t flywheels are 1" under the head.

[s3apra4]

There is something about Clean engines with polished parts.
Looks SICK!
I could eat off it!

[jaychen]

There is something about Clean engines with polished parts.
Looks SICK!
I could eat off it!

Haha i hear you buddy ..

Love clean shit in the engine bay. Glad your car is nearly done!

[s3apra4]

Haha i hear you buddy ..

Love clean shit in the engine bay. Glad your car is nearly done!

Thanks! As am I after 2 years.
Now if we could just get parts shipped to Australia faster you would be running too.

[jaychen]

Ha yep..

Throwing the motor in on Saturday, run in Saturday night through the mountains.. Come home at 2am, drop oil and let it drain.. then continue to run it in over the next week and then one final oil change before I throw the turbo on and switch to Maestro

[s3apra4]

Thats what im talking about! Get that shit done. Oh, and there must be many pictures.

[jaychen]

Haha I will try. I am usually so concerned on getting the work finished that I don't take any pics during the install.

I will take HEAPS during this time around.

[Seerlah]

Too lazy to Google it, so how do your polish your mani to look like that? Is it as simple as metal polish and a buffer tool bit for a power drill. I picked that up to clean up my exhaust, and wondering does the same process apply to polish the mani. Thanks!

[jaychen]

Too lazy to Google it, so how do your polish your mani to look like that? Is it as simple as metal polish and a buffer tool bit for a power drill. I picked that up to clean up my exhaust, and wondering does the same process apply to polish the mani. Thanks!

I wish it was that simple.

What I did was pick up:

2 x 60grit sanding wheel for a die grinder
2 x 120grit sanding wheel for a die grinder
240 non grit sanding paper
320 non grit sanding paper
P400 wet and dry
P600 wet and dry
P1200 wet and dry
P2000 wet and dry

Start sanding with the die grinder, moving up in grits.. then when you finish the 2000, then you polish it ..

These are the only photos I took during polishing my comp cover..

[Seerlah]

Def looks nice. I just copy & pasted your post, sent it to myself as a PM, and threw it into my folder of crap (lots of usefull stuff I like to save there). I'm def going to do this later on. Looks super clean .

[jaychen]

Haha ok nice..

Perhaps you could send me a PM or email me some of the useful things you have saved.. I really should do that myself but never get around to it.. then I am frantically searching for the info when I need it, and 9/10 I never find it.

Did you make any headway on that GT2871R file from that guy?

[Seerlah]

Dan said he has a file he can send you. Didn't you read your thread? lol. I didn't even bother to follow through after I seen that post.

I can send you the 830 file I have. There is no difference between them, just how the Injectors are set up, which you just have to go into the injector wizard and click on the "630cc" button

Also, you still need me to pick up those parts for you?

[jaychen]

Dan said he has a file he can send you. Didn't you read your thread? lol. I didn't even bother to follow through after I seen that post.



Also, you still need me to pick up those parts for you?

Yeh I read that, so it turns out they are just injector specific files in the end?

If thats the case, I have all those anyway..

I do need those parts.. just waiting on a few things.. Will contact you in the next few days if that's ok.

[jaychen]

Beautiful weather to drop the motor back in! Scored a free Ramset 18v Impact driver as well!

[Gbomer]

Loves the street garage !!!

[jaychen]

Neighbours love it too lol 18v impact driver at 7am

[Grip99]

Looking good!

[flynnr]

so why is that tiny turbo on the car in the pics you just posted??

[jaychen]

Because Maestro is NOT PnP for Australian users.. So I am going to run the car in on stock tune + stock turbo + stock FPR and injectors, then swap it all out to the GT28 and maestro stuff once the motor is healthy and 'safe'.

[Seerlah]

^Smart move!

[spindoctor]

Someone's happy today.

[Gbomer]

Someone's happy today.

So his taken it for a spin i gather ?

[spindoctor]

So his taken it for a spin i gather ?

Popped in at his place to help out with this reinstallation and did a check over. Primed the engine and started very quickly. Jesse's a happy bloke.

Jesse's gonna ask about the hydraulic lifters to you guys. Its noisy but i pointed him to this:-

https://s3.amazonaws.com/fcp-pdf-files/audi-vw-valve.pdf

We take this opportunity to confirm to you, that best practice for engines using hydraulic lifters, as recommended by Federal-Mogul and OE, is to ensure that new hydraulic lifters are fitted at the same time as any new valves are fitted. All parts should be installed in conditions of pristine cleanliness to ensure successful working. Each follower should be coated with an extreme pressure cam lubricant as used on the lobes. Finally, old engine oil must be drained and replaced with both new oil, and filter, as old dirty oil will contaminate the new lifters, leading to early malfunction.
The hydraulic followers should be allowed to “settle” for a MINIMUM of 30 minutes, after the complete installation, this to allow the excessive oil in the hydraulic lifter to drain. If this step is not complied with, some valves will probably make contact with the piston crown. This leads to an immediate and violent fracture in the cotter groove, on start up or soon after, possibly during the test run. OE further recommend that the engine should be allowed to “settle” for a MINIMUM of 30 minutes when the repair is ready, then cranked over carefully for TWO complete cycles by hand, this to check for valve to piston contact. Ideally, we would recommend that the engine should be left overnight before restarting for the first time after the repair.

What do you guys normally do with a freshly built head?

[jaychen]

As Danny has asked.. there is something that is NOISY in the head.. It sounds like lifters or cam chain tensioner but it was really quite noticeable.. It kind of has me worried.



Short knocking video..

[Risky Bizkit]

HORRAH! why does it sound so throaty?! you not hooked up the exhaust yet?!

Now you just needs to replace that tiny SMIC!

P.S i liked the "and its that easy" hand gesture after it started first time lol.

[A4Rob]

Do you have an oil pressure gauge?

[jaychen]

Do you have an oil pressure gauge?

Nope.. Should I try and get one rigged up before driving the car?

[Aliel]

How long did you leave it running after the first start? When I changed my camshaft chain tensioner after the first start there was a loud ticking noise from the head. After running for 30 mins or so it quieted down because the lifter got filled with oil. Hopefully it's just that.

As Danny has asked.. there is something that is NOISY in the head.. It sounds like lifters or cam chain tensioner but it was really quite noticeable.. It kind of has me worried.



Short knocking video..

[M-Hood]

Did you prime the system to allow the brand new lifters to pump up before you started the motor?

turn engine over by hand at least once, then let engine sit for 24 hours (ideally) before starting. Failure to comply can cause valve / piston contact in some applications.

[jaychen]

Did you prime the system to allow the brand new lifters to pump up before you started the motor?

Yes.

Cranked by hand atleast 2 - 4 times then we took out fuse #28 and cranked again for atleast 5-10 seconds on each pass.