Yes it is a T04E housing, which is why I'm not sure if I want to run it. I mean I got a killer deal on it which is the only reason why I got it. Still unsure what I want to do to be honest. I don't want to have full boost at 5k but I also want a lot of power. 9.5:1 CR should help with spool a little, built stock port AEB head with supertech valve train and IE cams should help but I don't want a turbo that's too overkill. My god my head hurts.
Sell it and get a turbo you'll be happy with. When I chose my turbo, I really wanted a cheaper turbocharger like a journal bearing water and oil cooled unit. But when it came down to the come down, I forked up the money for a turbo I felt I would be happy with, had room to improve with (there are a couple options to upgrade my turbo), and really hoped I would not regret purchasing. And really, I don't.
The same principle applies here: Buy it right, or buy it twice.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Standard Garrett GT2871R T3 .63 A/R. After I do drop in rods (already picked up), then either HTA 71 or Comp CTB-30R (really, want to try out both and have a plan on how I'm going to go about it to have it not cost me much). I think I'll be happy with the power and won't want more. This is my DD and 350whp on pump is my contentment goal.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
That's my exact goal. I am aiming for 300 to begin with so when I hit 350 I'm smiling all the way to the bank. Enough thread jacking. I was going to say CTB5356 would be perfect for your needs nerd.
Yes it is a T04E housing, which is why I'm not sure if I want to run it. I mean I got a killer deal on it which is the only reason why I got it. Still unsure what I want to do to be honest. I don't want to have full boost at 5k but I also want a lot of power. 9.5:1 CR should help with spool a little, built stock port AEB head with supertech valve train and IE cams should help but I don't want a turbo that's too overkill. My god my head hurts.
You can always try to see if they will swap covers, if so you should only have to ship the cover in not the whole turbo. How much power do you want to be making?
I want the setup to be capable of 500 awhp+ with reasonable spool. I was really considering a HTA3076 but I don't know how much power I could expect from that and I don't want to be maxing out any turbos. I know it may be hard to have best of worlds (good spool and big power), which is why I want something in the middle.
My Elim kit was had full boost at ~3900 for some reason (maybe that's what they do idk). Here's the only vids I have from inside, second vid I didn't goto past 7grand for one I couldn't see the tach and two I misfired in high RPMs. Also stock clutch I Which is why I didn't beat on it, I can shift like a DSG do don't say anything about these shifts.
B5 Casa A4 with a built motor that isn't in the car and a PTE 6262 BB .83 A/R that going sing lag city b*tch lag lag city b*tch.
Also, I believe the HTA GT3076R is good for ~400whp on pump gas with decent tune and decent amount of boost (22-25psi). Not sure what can be achieved with race gas, more timing, and more boost.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
I want the setup to be capable of 500 awhp+ with reasonable spool. I was really considering a HTA3076 but I don't know how much power I could expect from that and I don't want to be maxing out any turbos. I know it may be hard to have best of worlds (good spool and big power), which is why I want something in the middle.
My Elim kit was had full boost at ~3900 for some reason (maybe that's what they do idk). Here's the only vids I have from inside, second vid I didn't goto past 7grand for one I couldn't see the tach and two I misfired in high RPMs. Also stock clutch I Which is why I didn't beat on it, I can shift like a DSG do don't say anything about these shifts.
HTA3076 on pump gas will get you around 425whp pushing about 25psi, on race gas at that boost around 470whp. Pushing 30+ would get you into the 500+whp.
That is close to a GTX3076r which has a 58mm compressor wheel and a 60mm exhaust wheel. So anything in that size will get you the power your looking for.
Another A4 member went with the Comp Turbo 5857 and another one went Comp Turbo 5562, both of those should be able to reach 500whp.
Yes it is a T04E housing, which is why I'm not sure if I want to run it. I mean I got a killer deal on it which is the only reason why I got it. Still unsure what I want to do to be honest. I don't want to have full boost at 5k but I also want a lot of power. 9.5:1 CR should help with spool a little, built stock port AEB head with supertech valve train and IE cams should help but I don't want a turbo that's too overkill. My god my head hurts.
Full boost by 5k with your 6262 seems a bit optimistic to me without 2L, even with cams and a high CR. However, didn't you say you were building your head with solid lifters? In that case, who cares if you don't hit full boost by 5k? You'll hit it shortly after, and be able to rev for another 4000.
Also, I'm sorry I probably missed it, but what are you doing about tuning? Do you have easy access to retunes? If you do, not going to be very difficult to swap to a different turbo in the future if this one doesn't work out. Should be able to sell it for a similar price as to what you paid, even after using it.
Comps own Triple Ball Bearing Billet CHRA, 100% rebuildable and 99% mechanically efficient, uses ceramic ball bearings. 4in anti surge .70 A/R compressor cover w/ 2.5in outlet, and .82 A/R Turbine housing with 4 bolt discharge. Obviously T3 flange lol.
I'll post some pics of the CHRA. It's pretty cool.
It's the only turbo I've ever seen that has absolutely zero shaft play, and wheels spin so effortlessly that all you have to do is blow on them to make them move.
Here you can see the built in restrictor
Threaded oil drain instead of the typical flange. Also pretty cool
Full boost by 5k with your 6262 seems a bit optimistic to me without 2L, even with cams and a high CR. However, didn't you say you were building your head with solid lifters? In that case, who cares if you don't hit full boost by 5k? You'll hit it shortly after, and be able to rev for another 4000.
Also, I'm sorry I probably missed it, but what are you doing about tuning? Do you have easy access to retunes? If you do, not going to be very difficult to swap to a different turbo in the future if this one doesn't work out. Should be able to sell it for a similar price as to what you paid, even after using it.
No I'm not doing solid lifters. For tuning it's either going to be one of these... Maestro, custom tune from VAST, custom tune from Paul (APR's old tuner, has a company now called ECS Performance), or Jordan from ICS... So lots of options there.
B5 Casa A4 with a built motor that isn't in the car and a PTE 6262 BB .83 A/R that going sing lag city b*tch lag lag city b*tch.
Hey Mike, does the CHRA on the Comp Turbo have enough room to thread in a 90* fitting for the coolant ports?
And Turbo Nerd, there is a guy on Vortex selling an 034 downpipe for the SPA manifold for $200 (full exhaust for $400 including the SPA downpipe, and you can probably talk him into selling it for lower). Just trying to look out. If the link gets deleted because it's in the wrong section, I copy and pasted it for you here . And if you don't want that exhaust, at least you can have the DP to have your car driveable to get to a shop to get a custom one made or have your current one tweeked to fit this. Also, maybe you would want to consider a tweeked B5 S4 3" aftermarket exhaust?
Most of this stuff is barely used. I had this turbo set up on my car for about 5,000 miles and it dyno'd at 313whp although I'd recommend the turbo for a VR6, the rest of the stuff is great for a 1.8t. PM me or preferably text me: 520-234-3431
-barely used rack: $250
-02J Manual Trans/almost new Clutch, pressure plate, flywheel: $200
-034 3" top mount downpipe: $200
-SPA top mount turbo manifold: $200
-Tial wastegate (dont remember which one...): $100
-Custom 3" exhaust w/ magnaflow muffler and tips: $200
-Borgwarner S300 turbo (great for VR6 but still fine on 1.8t): $600
-black OZ Superleggara 18x8 5x112 et32 w/ good tires: $700
Only posting the pics relevant to your needs, but listed above is what he has
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Hey Mike, does the CHRA on the Comp Turbo have enough room to thread in a 90* fitting for the coolant ports?
Might have to see if it will clear the exhaust housing or if it would have to be threaded on with CHRA out of the exhaust housing. There might be just enough room to spin the 90* fitting.
Other option would be to use a straight fitting into the CHRA then a -6 to -6 90* swivel fitting which is a fitting that PSI includes in their coolant line kit.
30K and up for an R/T. I was looking at one for 35K, 8.4" navi, black grille, black wheels, wing, front and rear heated seats, cool and warm cup holders, they told me just under $400 a month. I test drove the new 3.6 VVT with the 8 speed tranny and that thing had some balls I must say, also I was going 45 mph and was using the paddle shifters to get in 8th gear and it was below 1k rpms.... I was like wow.
Also yea Mike they are really nice, I could probably get the SRT8 but that would leave me with no room for mods with my car so that's out of the question.
B5 Casa A4 with a built motor that isn't in the car and a PTE 6262 BB .83 A/R that going sing lag city b*tch lag lag city b*tch.
mike-2ptzero
Come on guys, K03 is stage 1 no matter what you have on top of that. K04 is stage 2 and BT is stage 3. Lets not get like the S4 guys were they need to add a - or + to every stage.
Turbo Nerd, I have a question about your exhaust. I'm sitting here contemplating how to go about tweeking my exhaust to a 3" custom downpipe. I have the same 2.75" Milltek as you. With the slip fit, a 2.5" OD tubing will fit into the Milltek midpipe. At first, I was rather set on having a 2.75" to 3" transition peice welded onto the midpipe (cut down, where the slip fit section ends), placing a 3" V-band on that, and having one 3" downpipe made to the turbo (turbo will have a 2.5" 4 bolt to 3" v-band adapter...I actually want to have this welded onto my exhaust housing). But then the thought of actually being able to resell the exhaust for an extra $500 minimum sounds rather apealing. Because once it is tweeked, it would be rather difficult to find a buyer.
My question is: What are your thoughts on having a 2.5" OD to 3" OD transition peice placed into the midpipe (slip fit), and just doing the 3" custom downpipe that way? It is a bottle neck (more than the 2.75" would be), so I am wondering what's your opinion on how much of a performance downer it would be? Before I upgrade to a full 3" exhaust, this exhaust will see a turbo rated 51 lbs/min (HTA 71). But I will run it on a standard GT2871R for a while. That's the plan anyways. Since you have to go the same route, I am wondering what are your plans for it?
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Ok, pretty sure I am going to go the 2.5" slip fit transition to 3" v-band route, so I can resell my whole unit easier for like $500-600. And to not derail this thread, any update?
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Dude, going from a 2.5'' > 3'' will create more noise then anything.
It is my understanding the exhaust gasses are at their peak when they leave the turbine housing (duh) and start to cool down and compress down the exhaust. Thats why running a 3'' down pipe > 2.5/2.75" is generally ok in some applications. Obviously when you step up to GT30's and stuff you're gonna need a full 3".
I never had any intention to run 2.5" right off the turbo. I was referring to a 2.5" slip fit on the Milltek midpipe (vs cutting off the slip fit section and welding on a 2.75" to 3" transition) to a 3" v-band going towards the turbo...not the muffler. My exhaust will still be 2.75". I was just brainstorming on how to go about making my downpipe.
Anyways, it will be interesting to see what Turbo Nerd plans on doing, because we are basically in the same boat.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
I never had any intention to run 2.5" right off the turbo. I was referring to a 2.5" slip fit on the Milltek midpipe (vs cutting off the slip fit section and welding on a 2.75" to 3" transition) to a 3" v-band going towards the turbo...not the muffler. My exhaust will still be 2.75". I was just brainstorming on how to go about making my downpipe.
Anyways, it will be interesting to see what Turbo Nerd plans on doing, because we are basically in the same boat.
oh sorry dude,
just get 2.75>3 transition welded in. slip joints are crap dude.. it would be cheap to have a shop weld it if you supply parts :)
Realized I haven't updated this in a while. I haven't really did shit since I hate working in the cold and everything possible that I could do in doors is done. I have a propane heater in my garage but I don't have much room to work with unless I put the car outside (which I don't want to let it sit in the snow also I have my rack out and axe axles). The only thing I did was assemble the head, light tint on my tail lights (2 coats of VHT night shade), got my oil galley plugs (didn't pop them in yet). I did the group buy and bought 034's track density mount package so those should be here tomorrow or the next day.
We have had decent weather here but it's mostly during the week (of course when I'm working), on the weekends it's either really cold, rain, or snowing. Any Saturday that might be coming up that happens to be 40+ degrees outside then I am def putting this ****** in with the help of my cousin and my friend. Hopefully that day comes soon or I will just be waiting for Spring but by that time I will probably ditch the 2871 and throw in my 6262 or I might consider another turbo.
I'll get some pics tomorrow of whatever.
B5 Casa A4 with a built motor that isn't in the car and a PTE 6262 BB .83 A/R that going sing lag city b*tch lag lag city b*tch.
Picked up a 99 AEB Passat that needs a few things done, I'll get pictures of it sometime.... nothing special. Also hopefully I could go look at the red 2L A4 that's in the classifieds this weekend, $4500 seems to good to be true and the fact that VAST built the car doesn't make sense since they charge up the yahoo for building a motor. I don't know we will see, this car better be faster than my stock motor elim setup or else I'm walking away quick.
B5 Casa A4 with a built motor that isn't in the car and a PTE 6262 BB .83 A/R that going sing lag city b*tch lag lag city b*tch.
They are my OEM one's with 2 coats of VHT night shade, I haven't put them on yet but I don't think it will look bad. I may be wrong but I'll install them in a few hours and see how they turn out.
B5 Casa A4 with a built motor that isn't in the car and a PTE 6262 BB .83 A/R that going sing lag city b*tch lag lag city b*tch.
Neither- my opinion stick to the oem ones , and do the white part - red with red lamin-x or red tint spray, something to look clean red . . . keep it simple - less is more :)
, buy something that will make same power and earlier 
?
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Originally Posted by Turbo Nerd
![Dan[FN]6262's Avatar](customavatars/avatar32962_26.gif "Dan[FN]6262's Avatar"){kind=avatar}
. And if you don't want that exhaust, at least you can have the DP to have your car driveable to get to a shop to get a custom one made or have your current one tweeked to fit this. Also, maybe you would want to consider a tweeked B5 S4 3" aftermarket exhaust?
..... 15k on Street Built Engine
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