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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings jdaudi's Avatar
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    P2006 + P2007 - Intake Runner Stuck Closed

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    05 C6 3.2


    So heres my problem.. CEL came on.. P2006, P2007 came up. Alldata says "Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Closed bank 1 (P2006) and bank 2 (P2007)" It comes on, then goes off, comes on.. Goes off.. (Every few trips.)

    Friends say its a vacuum leak. TSB says it could be a vacuum leak or the intake manifold actuator diaphragm. My other friend gave me a vacuum pump to use saying i could use it to diagnose this. I have never worked with vacuum lines before, could some give me some directions? Has anyone experienced this?

    Thanks guys!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings jdaudi's Avatar
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    Solved: Thanks nobodys input - Vacuum line way down by the evap canister melted against the block, broke clean off. Repaired, fixed.

  3. #3
    Registered Member One Ring
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    06 A6 (C6) 3.2 Vacuum Line Failure, DTC P2006 P2007

    Quote Originally Posted by jdaudi View Post
    Solved: Thanks nobodys input - Vacuum line way down by the evap canister melted against the block, broke clean off. Repaired, fixed.
    jdaudi, just came across your post. I've had the exact same issue (CEL on, P2006 + P2007 codes) in the last few days on my 2006 3.2 (~44000 miles). I saw the advice on checking vacuum lines and sure enough found a break in the line to the evap canister, just below where it theroetically clips onto the dipstick (clip was broken, not sure for how long).

    I yanked on the end just below the break and a 3-inch section came off in my hand, with a hole melted through the middle of it from contact with the head.

    My question is: where the heck is the other end of this line (on the evap canister), and how do I get to it? Did you have to go underneath the car to swap that line or can you do it from the engine bay up top?

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings ebi718's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jb246 View Post
    jdaudi, just came across your post. I've had the exact same issue (CEL on, P2006 + P2007 codes) in the last few days on my 2006 3.2 (~44000 miles). I saw the advice on checking vacuum lines and sure enough found a break in the line to the evap canister, just below where it theroetically clips onto the dipstick (clip was broken, not sure for how long).

    I yanked on the end just below the break and a 3-inch section came off in my hand, with a hole melted through the middle of it from contact with the head.

    My question is: where the heck is the other end of this line (on the evap canister), and how do I get to it? Did you have to go underneath the car to swap that line or can you do it from the engine bay up top?

    Thanks
    Bumping this up. I just pulled both codes, with MIL on. Is the fix as simple as replacing vacuum line(s)? Thanks in advance!!

    UPDATE: Fixed!! Hose/pipe was broken in 2 places...... I got a replacement hose from Autozone; took me about 10 minutes; codes cleared, MIL gone.

    Last edited by ebi718; 02-16-2013 at 05:52 AM. Reason: Fixed
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  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings Santana's S5's Avatar
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    P2006 + P2007 - Intake Runner Stuck Closed

    Quote Originally Posted by ebi718 View Post
    Bumping this up. I just pulled both codes, with MIL on. Is the fix as simple as replacing vacuum line(s)? Thanks in advance!!

    UPDATE: Fixed!! Hose/pipe was broken in 2 places...... I got a replacement hose from Autozone; took me about 10 minutes; codes cleared, MIL gone.

    Where are the vacuum hoses located? This code just popped up on my car.
    Audi S5 4.2
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Three Rings MedicCarter's Avatar
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    What were your problems when the car was running? I'm wondering if my issue is related to the flap runner too. Not sure if its that or a coil pack going bad but I'm checking my options.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings ebi718's Avatar
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    Re: P2006 + P2007 - Intake Runner Stuck Closed

    Quote Originally Posted by Santana's S5 View Post
    Where are the vacuum hoses located? This code just popped up on my car.

    The hoses/lines are usually under the front engine plastic cover. When you locate then, trace from from one end to the other. GL.

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  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings Santana's S5's Avatar
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    P2006 + P2007 - Intake Runner Stuck Closed

    Quote Originally Posted by ebi718 View Post
    The hoses/lines are usually under the front engine plastic cover. When you locate then, trace from from one end to the other. GL.

    Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
    Thanks. Turned out that the arm that open and closes the flap somehow got disconnected. Everything's working fine now.
    Audi S5 4.2
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    Future Mod's: Supercharger

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings ebi718's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Santana's S5 View Post
    Thanks. Turned out that the arm that open and closes the flap somehow got disconnected. Everything's working fine now.
    Nice
    '10 A6 3.0T Quattro Avant Prestige Phantom Black Pearl Effect (Link)
    '09 A8L Phantom Black Pearle (Link)
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings AdiDas's Avatar
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    hey guys this code got thrown on my a4 3.2 and the mechanic has checked the vac line several times and can't find a leak. he called audi and they couldn't figure out why the code was being thrown.

    any input would be helpful. my mechanic says that the car runs, but has a really rough i9dle
    2005.5 3.2 V6 A4

  11. #11
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Hey guys, i bought my car with the check engine light on and it had the code p2006, p2007, and so.etimes the p2404. I have already found 2 vacuum leaks that it had and after checking about 6 times, i can not find any more. I have cleared the codes but they keep coming up. Is it possible that my vacuum pump went out? Because if i turn my car on there is no sucktion in any like. The car's idle is normal and it runs great but i still have those codes. Any suggestions?

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings tboo72's Avatar
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    I have this same problem. My hose broke in half & Im getting a CEL. Does anybody know the part number at Autozone?
    2008 A6 S-Line 3.2 Quattro

  13. #13
    Senior Member Two Rings jdaudi's Avatar
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    Hi All,

    Sorry I have been gone (have had no audi issues up until now so I am replying to my past threads.) When this issue happens to your car you will feel a major decrease in performance, almost scary (scared the hell out of me at first!) This is 9/10 vacuum leak issue. You can follow my new vacuum thread here, which I am sure a lot of smart audi folks will give lots of great suggestions on how to locate these leaks and where they may be (common areas). If you have any specific questions about this code PM me!

    Thanks guys!

  14. #14
    Registered Member One Ring dondraper's Avatar
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    Same issue and same codes. I had replaced the cracked hose and the check engine light didn't appear again for a month and a half. Light came on again last week with the same codes so I took it in this time. Mechanic says it's the "Intake Manifold Runner Control Actuator"; and when you give the car gas it blow the hose off. To fix it they need to order a new Intake Manifold Runner Control Actuator and with labour and parts I'm looking at around $860 ...any thoughts?
    Don Draper

  15. #15
    Active Member Two Rings Sodium's Avatar
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    OK, I have just finished with this and the problem had nothing to do with vacuum.

    Turns out that when installing the intake runners/fuel rail you need to reach inside the intake runner duct and actuate the runner slightly. Otherwise the runner will be pinned over the intake divider mounted in the cylinder head and be unable to actuate. (remember when installing the fuel rail to use a little petroleum jelly to allow the fuel injector o-rings to seat easily and not twist in their socket on the fuel rail).

    You should be able to see the intake divider in each intake next to the runner. You should be able to reach down into the duct and actuate the runner by hand once the fuel rail/runner ducts are installed on the head.

    Voila, problem solved. I couldn't find this procedure in my Bentley manual nor in any of the vids I checked out on line when blasting my intake valves with walnut grit and consequently reassembled the darn thing incorrectly.

    If you bought your car with these codes, as some folks above mentioned, then chances are good someone took the intake system apart, possibly to blast or clean the valves or possibly to replace one or more fuel injector. The repair is time consuming but relatively simple.

    Disconnect the battery, put out cigarettes, don't work near heaters or flames, make sure there's good ventilation. You need to undo the fuel rails and that's going to spill fuel all over the place.

    1) Remove intake ducts & air filter.
    2) Remove the throttle body
    3) Disconnect the PCV duct by the firewall. It attaches behind the throttle body.
    4) Disconnect electrical connectors to the intake manifold.
    5) Disconnect the vacuum lines at the front and back of the manifold.
    6) Pull the 12 bolts from the intake manifold and remove the intake manifold. (there's 6 gaskets for connecting the intake manifold to the intake runner ducts. Make sure you've got all of those.

    Now check the runners. You should be able to look into the intake ducts (6) that lead to the cylinders and see a flap half way across the duct. You should be able to reach down into the duct and push firmly against the metal runner flap. It should depress to open INTO the duct. If it won't move check for the divider flap. That should be up against the runner flap. If the divider flap is UNDER the runner flap then this is your problem.

    7) Disconnect the 2 stainless steel fuel lines. Use rags to sop up the gas that will spill.
    8) Undo the 5 bolts and 2 nuts on each intake runner duct. These are attached to the fuel rail too. NOTE: fuel is going to spill everywhere.
    9) Tug the intake runner/fuel rail up gently. Sop up the fuel that spills everywhere with rags. Put the rags outside to evaporate. Pull the assembly fully off the guide bolts and remove the fuel injector o-rings. While it's good practice to replace these every time you do this service in my experience these are ludicrously hard to source. If your o-rings are in reasonably good condition put them back on the fuel injector, coat them in petroleum jelly so that they don't bind in the socket in the fuel rail and twist. These MUST be lubricated or you risk a major fuel leak when you attempt to start the car UNDER the intake manifold.
    10) Using your fingers to actuate the intake runner to keep it clear of the intake divider re-seat the intake runner ducts and fuel rail over the fuel injectors. Release the intake runner plate and it should snug up against the intake divider plate. Snug down the middle three bolts on the assembly and then use your fingers to be sure the runner plate still moves freely and it not pinned on top of the intake divider plate.

    Do the same on the other side and reverse the steps to reassemble.

    WARNING. Take the time to double check the fuel line flange fittings to be sure they are properly snug. If these leak you're not going to be able to access them once the intake manifold is back on. Proper assembly of the fuel system at this point is truly critical or engine fires can result.

    Also, get our your code scanner or VAGCOM software. When the fuel system purges the air in the lines it's going to set codes and carry on. So once the engine is running again you'll need to reset codes once more.

    If the intake runners are clear and operable you will notice a LOT more power from the engine. It'll run quite well in spite of them being pinned but the difference is dramatic.

    ETA: I found on another part of the forum a replacement part for the impossible to find fuel injector o-ring seals. AutoZone part number 800-9212 is a set of 8 for about $7. They are an exact fit. So if you dig in this deep to your intakes just swap 'em out while you're in there.
    Last edited by Sodium; 11-30-2016 at 07:34 AM.

  16. #16
    Active Member Two Rings Sodium's Avatar
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    Oh, one other thing. The vacuum actuators for the intake runners connect to an 1/8" vacuum line at a T connector near the firewall at the back of the intake manifold right above the MAP sensor. FYI.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    Good write up! Thanks for taking the time to do it. Value added post FTW!


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