Mikse´s TiAL S605 Build ..€urostyle..

[BlakMarketKlash]

Do the euro s4's come with immobilizers? Here in N/a i know we dont. What you need is an M-box ECU, and i dont know what year or type of ECU you have. But i would suggest using nefmotos software to update to an M box before the FL program will be compatible. I remember my ECU was a very oddball A box that only saw once before in N/a. Here's the link:

http://www.nefmoto.com/forum/

Nefmoto is on AZ. And im sure Notorious could chime in aswell on this!
Hope that helps

[NOTORIOUS VR]

^^^ yes everywhere in the world except North America had IMMO :(

[Mikse]

Do the euro s4's come with immobilizers? Here in N/a i know we dont. What you need is an M-box ECU, and i dont know what year or type of ECU you have. But i would suggest using nefmotos software to update to an M box before the FL program will be compatible. I remember my ECU was a very oddball A box that only saw once before in N/a. Here's the link:

http://www.nefmoto.com/forum/

Nefmoto is on AZ. And im sure Notorious could chime in aswell on this!
Hope that helps

My car is late 2000 AGB with the latest immobilizer version (3) what means I can´t chance my ECU without going to Dealer where they can activate another ecu (btdt). My current ecu is 551D so I guess its a D-box. We tried to flash stock M-box file with no success, if thats what you ment by that I need M-box ECU (and not physical ecu) ?. I´m not sure yet does the immobilizer have anything to do with that that I can´t flash my car?

I´m consulting with EPL about this and what comes to their customer support: Pure Reference level!!

Next step is nefmoto. Don´t know a much about nefariousmotorsports but luckily I have a frind who´s helping me.

Any tips and help are welcome!

edit: To clear the immobilizer issue it was activated for some reason and now I can´t start the car.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Realistically the immo shouldn't interfere with the flash since it's on a separate eeprom on the back....

that said, the M box might now with with your ecu because it is a different hardware revision all together...

551D means it's a D box... you might want to look into trying maybe a C box? I think that is still an S4 ECU, could be wrong though.

You're wanting to self tune?

[Mikse]

Realistically the immo shouldn't interfere with the flash since it's on a separate eeprom on the back....

that said, the M box might now with with your ecu because it is a different hardware revision all together...

551D means it's a D box... you might want to look into trying maybe a C box? I think that is still an S4 ECU, could be wrong though.

You're wanting to self tune?

What were you trying to say about M-box?

C-box has smaller memory and immo2 so don´t believe it would work in my car.

I´m not going to tune the car, EPL is.

I´ve red a few similar flashing problems and please say I´m right: Flashing problems are over when you get the base file in...one way or the other?

[BlakMarketKlash]

What were you trying to say about M-box?

C-box has smaller memory and immo2 so don´t believe it would work in my car.

I´m not going to tune the car, EPL is.

I´ve red a few similar flashing problems and please say I´m right: Flashing problems are over when you get the base file in...one way or the other?

Yes thats usually true. Im sure EPL is going to try to send you different box re-flashes. Here's the link to Ross-tech for the immobilizer tho

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/audiB5.html

[Mikse]

I´ll get back to the flashing when I have something new.

In the meanwhile lets focus to happier things. Got a setrab 25 row oil cooler and for some reason my first impression was its freaking huge 19 row would´ve been more than enough...
Fitting was Really tight. Hammered the passanger side lug so the hood would fit..

[silentbob]

My car is late 2000 AGB with the latest immobilizer version (3) what means I can´t chance my ECU without going to Dealer where they can activate another ecu (btdt). My current ecu is 551D so I guess its a D-box. We tried to flash stock M-box file with no success, if thats what you ment by that I need M-box ECU (and not physical ecu) ?. I´m not sure yet does the immobilizer have anything to do with that that I can´t flash my car?

I´m consulting with EPL about this and what comes to their customer support: Pure Reference level!!

Next step is nefmoto. Don´t know a much about nefariousmotorsports but luckily I have a frind who´s helping me.

Any tips and help are welcome!

edit: To clear the immobilizer issue it was activated for some reason and now I can´t start the car.

You can't flash a ecu with the nefmoto flasher with a file with active IMMO. Either you deactive the IMMO on the EEPROM or you have to flash in boot mode with a Galetto clone for example.

[Mikse]

You can't flash a ecu with the nefmoto flasher with a file with active IMMO. Either you deactive the IMMO on the EEPROM or you have to flash in boot mode with a Galetto clone for example.

What hardware do I need to try the Galletto and is there any tricks what needs to be done to get it work?

About the IMMO: The car ran fine with the old file and after we wired the K-line to OBD connector (to get ECUx to work) and tried the flash a couple of times then the car just wouldn´t start anymore. Any ideas what caused the IMMO activation???

[Mikse]

We are back in business!! well partly. I sent the ECU to EPL and 5 day express mail lasted over 3 weeks since they lost the package!! Finally the package was found and EPL got to do their magic. Now the car is running again but I´m having problems with aquamist HFS-3 gauge. It won´t light up! We checked that the gauge is getting current but it just not working.?? The weird part is that the gauge was working OK earlier. So the rehearsals is continuing on that part. I´m very happy that the car is now OK and hopefully we can start tuning it soon after I´ve broken in the clutch.

[Mikse]

Been a while since last update so I thought I'd give a short briefing what has happened since last fall. A lot has happened but not much progress :)

When I got the car running and drove it back to home two days later I started to have charging issues. The battery couldn't keep the current. While I was looking into that I accidentally left the car on neutral and forgot it when I left home. It slided down to my other car and the front bumper took a small hit on the passenger side corner. I decided to take the car to a dealer to ask about new altenator but during first acceleration the instrument cluster had a late christmas and all warning lights lighted up and the voltage gauge jumped up to 16V... Got the car towed to a friends "garage" for an altenator change.



After that I took the car to a friend paint shop to fix the front bumper but the outcome was that the car was over painted with OEM achat gray with matte finish.



Old 17" Ultraleggeras has been sold and new wheels are coming for this summer..

Now it was finally time to take the car on the road to take logs. After the first two pulls my 3rd hear started to make loud while.. I've had 3rd and 5th gear making noise for a few years and last winter when we had -25C degrees my 2nd gear made horrible noise under mild acceleration so it was time to buy a new gearbox.. Found 44tml old gearbox from -04 A6 and it was changed. So far don't have noises from it...

The Aquamist HFS-3 was a real PITA from day one. It didn't help that bentley manual had wrong wiring diagram. ELSA had the corrent one but the system still wasn't working as it should. I had help from BlakMarketKlash (<- thanks) with the wiring and everything seem to be OK but the gauge didn't light up when the ingition was turned on.
Big thaks to Dave@EPL for helping me with this and he confirmed what I suspected. Euro cars have different wiring compared to US S4s. Dave told me that US -03 2,7tt cars the coil didn't get 12V until the car was running and thats why I my gauge didn't light up before it was running. Next issue was the system was spraying at all until I adjusted the threshold to 9 o'clock. This made the system activate but it was hitting failsafe. Now the threshold is adjusted to 11 o'clock and the system is working as it should.

Tuning is still in very early stage. Basically I'm running base map with 10% WGDC but its running guite strong already. Here's logs from last pull. The car is running 25.5psi (to be exact ). AFR's is still on the rich side ~11,5-11.

[Audi_S4]

2.9 FATS aint bad :-)

Tell me about the different wiring, my buddie Mark spent hours trying to find out what the hell all the different colors where on my coilpacks etc...

So I'll prob have a problem with my innovate wideband too cause I have to attach it to the 12v to light with ignition ?

Good luck with your project !

[Cadiburns]

What do you have the "gain" set to on the Aquamist?

[Mikse]

"Gain" is set to default. Haven't had the time/energy/need to adjust it.. yet

[Max@034]

Nice Mikse. Looking good; that is a strong acceleration graph. Excited to see what happens as the tune gets dialed!

[Mikse]

While waiting 4bar MAP sensor for VEMS I put new wheels on. Rota Grid 18x8,5" ET30. Sorry for the bad picture quality.

[Cadiburns]

Color looks great and dig the wheels. Are they 5x114.3? Running wobble bolts?

[Mikse]

Yes they are 114.3 with wobble bolts. It just wasn't that "bolt-on" with wobbles as people usually say here. I was aware that the bolt holes needed to be drilled to 15->16mm but what I've never heard anyone saying you need the "narrow style" wobble bolt. All wobble bolts I could find had 28mm wide wobble section and they are so wide that you they don't fit inside the wheel.
Here's pic of narrow and wide wobble bolt:



And as I couldn't find correct bolts anywhere I had to machine the bolts narrower like this.