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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings lagadula's Avatar
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    Feb 06 2010
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    Intake manifold flaps "clicking" - scarry noise !!

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    I hear that my intake manifold flaps are making "clicking" noise on idlle (cold and warm engine). When i pull lever moving them to full open (its verry small move), they are quiet. But today i've notice something scary. I was in my friend's shop. I've selected D, and with foot brake on, I've apply acc. pedal a bit, just to check how they act on load... and the noise was back, but louder (constantly clicking). Looks like I must take out the manifold, and open him, to check, but anybody had this before ? And maybe somone has a picture how manifold is build inside ?
    I dont know if i can drive with it, I seriously scared.....
    2003 brilliant black S4 B6 Avant

  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Aug 31 2010
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    09 R1 Track Weapon
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    Greenacres, WA

    I've seen that happen when the vacuum solenoid on the front of the intake either goes out. or one of the mounts crack and allows it to move.
    05 B6 S4 Avant 6MT
    06 Touareg V8
    09 Yam R1, full race
    71 Honda Z50 88cc (pit bike of death)
    64 Ducati Mountaineer 90 (in restore mode)

  3. #3
    Active Member Two Rings lagadula's Avatar
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    Is it possible to repair, or i need to change whole manifold ? My selenoid is working.
    2003 brilliant black S4 B6 Avant

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings SquiddyB6S4's Avatar
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    Central Florida

    Either you or your shop need to check it. I thought the solenoid was on the front of the 4.2, and hence on the rear for the BHF (S4 4.2 engine, which is backwards compared to most Audi 4.2's). Either way, the solenoid is either acting up or you've got a bad actuator arm or mount or something. They're just plastic, and they do break. And if you do have a broken actuator arm, before you go having a metal one made, or buying an aftermarket metal arm, just think - next time something has to break, do you want the same $5 piece of plastic to break, or would you rather something more expensive break instead?

    Just my two cents. If the flap is actually moving around, I wouldn't drive it. The ECM may not be able to compensate for its rapid movement. If the solenoid is just making noise and the flap is sitting still, I'd say it's okay.

    EDIT: You won't likely find a replacement arm or other such parts from the dealership. You should try, but don't be surprised if they can't get individual parts of the manifold. Try a recycler (junk yard) or if need be contact somebody who is very good at welding plastic (in the case of a broken mount) or a machine shop (in the case of a broken actuator rod/arm).
    -Jason
    2004 B6S4 6MT - Apikol Snub Mount, Piggie Pipes, Magnaflow Cat-Back, JHM Tune with Launch Assist, Squid Rear LSD #01 20lb wheels + Michelin PSS
    2013 Veloster Turbo 6MT - Bone stock, DD Duty; annoying at times, but cheap and quick with extended warranty
    1996 Miata - Cheap and ugly, Hard Dog, huge fender flares, OE Torsen, Poly bushings, Redline greases and Mobil 1 oils everywhere - track slut
    LifeWithSquid

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings Jimingle10's Avatar
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    May 08 2013
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    Manchester NH

    bump...did you ever figure out the problem? My A6 4.2 is making this noise having trouble sourcing parts

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings SquiddyB6S4's Avatar
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    You may not need a whole manifold. You can buy just the actuators or just the linkages from wreckers or on ebay. Have you looked to see if yours are broken, or if you have a bad vacuum hose there?
    -Jason
    2004 B6S4 6MT - Apikol Snub Mount, Piggie Pipes, Magnaflow Cat-Back, JHM Tune with Launch Assist, Squid Rear LSD #01 20lb wheels + Michelin PSS
    2013 Veloster Turbo 6MT - Bone stock, DD Duty; annoying at times, but cheap and quick with extended warranty
    1996 Miata - Cheap and ugly, Hard Dog, huge fender flares, OE Torsen, Poly bushings, Redline greases and Mobil 1 oils everywhere - track slut
    LifeWithSquid

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings Dirtracer603's Avatar
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    Aug 15 2012
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    My Garage
    Custom stunt/street legal CRF250, 05 & 06 CBR600rr
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    Fredericksburg, Va

    In my experience, many times it's just a characteristic of the design. The intake pulses cause the flapper to vibrate on the seats which causes the noise. Chances are nothing is wrong. I made a youtube video about this issue but I'm unable to post it at this time. Look up 'audi s4 intake flapper' or 'dirtracer603' and it should pop up.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings rocky.ca's Avatar
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    Aug 24 2008
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    Toronto

    i have this problem. It can actually feel the vibes from it in the car. if you put pressure on the actuator it stops. I thought my engine was going to explode.
    Brilliant Shwartz 2004 S4: Stock

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings httuner's Avatar
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    Jun 18 2013
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    Anchorage Alaska

    I have this issue too, but I think I might have figure out what the problem is. There is a coil spring that helps with closing the flap, I think its worn out from all the miles/years of opening and closing. When I help turn it close and hold it there the noise completely goes away!! I'm thinking I'm going to replace this spring and report back with results. If I am able to completely rid myself of the problem, we might just have found a fix for the intake manifold flap noise.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings rocky.ca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by httuner View Post
    I have this issue too, but I think I might have figure out what the problem is. There is a coil spring that helps with closing the flap, I think its worn out from all the miles/years of opening and closing. When I help turn it close and hold it there the noise completely goes away!! I'm thinking I'm going to replace this spring and report back with results. If I am able to completely rid myself of the problem, we might just have found a fix for the intake manifold flap noise.
    I have the same problem.. Where are you going to source a spring?
    Brilliant Shwartz 2004 S4: Stock

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings httuner's Avatar
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    Jun 18 2013
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    Anchorage Alaska

    Quote Originally Posted by rocky.ca View Post
    I have the same problem.. Where are you going to source a spring?
    I'm going to the dealer today in hope they might sell it separately, but I will find out, otherwise I'm going bend the spring, the part that holds against the plastic arm that closes the flap. I'm going to bend it just a few millimeters to ensure a tighter tug so the flap fully closes. The problem here is that the flap doesn't fully close that's why it makes those clicking noises.

    Or my other solution was to add a few thick layers of tape to help build some material to help the spring press the arm close tighter to help hold the flap close so the noise goes away. =]

    I won't get to it till this next weekend due to work but will report with my results when I do.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings SquiddyB6S4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by httuner View Post
    I'm going to the dealer today in hope they might sell it separately, but I will find out, otherwise I'm going bend the spring, the part that holds against the plastic arm that closes the flap. I'm going to bend it just a few millimeters to ensure a tighter tug so the flap fully closes. The problem here is that the flap doesn't fully close that's why it makes those clicking noises.

    Or my other solution was to add a few thick layers of tape to help build some material to help the spring press the arm close tighter to help hold the flap close so the noise goes away. =]

    I won't get to it till this next weekend due to work but will report with my results when I do.
    I hope the added spring force does not accelerate breakage of the actuator arm.
    -Jason
    2004 B6S4 6MT - Apikol Snub Mount, Piggie Pipes, Magnaflow Cat-Back, JHM Tune with Launch Assist, Squid Rear LSD #01 20lb wheels + Michelin PSS
    2013 Veloster Turbo 6MT - Bone stock, DD Duty; annoying at times, but cheap and quick with extended warranty
    1996 Miata - Cheap and ugly, Hard Dog, huge fender flares, OE Torsen, Poly bushings, Redline greases and Mobil 1 oils everywhere - track slut
    LifeWithSquid

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Apr 24 2009
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    Chicago, IL

    Hit up Shokan to see if they have a used IM they'll sell you. Otherwise, JHM time!
    now: 2011.5 BMW M3 sedan ZCP
    past: 2005 Audi S4 sedan, 2011 Audi S4 sedan

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings blackedoutt's Avatar
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    B7 S4, MK1 TT, Tacoma
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    Anyone have a picture of where the actuator for this flap is? I'd like to check mine. Also isn't there a vagcom check for actuation as well? (future intake manifold flap health DIY in the making)
    YEAH BUDDY!

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings rocky.ca's Avatar
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    After more investigation, the flapper actuator is sucked open at idle, and below 5krpm. Perhaps some cars don't generate enough vac pressure to keep the flap fully seated?
    Brilliant Shwartz 2004 S4: Stock

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings SquiddyB6S4's Avatar
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    Mine does this occasionally, but there does not seem to be rhyme or reason. I am not concerned, so long as the little bolts inside the manifold do not loosen and find their way into the engine.
    -Jason
    2004 B6S4 6MT - Apikol Snub Mount, Piggie Pipes, Magnaflow Cat-Back, JHM Tune with Launch Assist, Squid Rear LSD #01 20lb wheels + Michelin PSS
    2013 Veloster Turbo 6MT - Bone stock, DD Duty; annoying at times, but cheap and quick with extended warranty
    1996 Miata - Cheap and ugly, Hard Dog, huge fender flares, OE Torsen, Poly bushings, Redline greases and Mobil 1 oils everywhere - track slut
    LifeWithSquid

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings httuner's Avatar
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    Anchorage Alaska

    Quote Originally Posted by rocky.ca View Post
    After more investigation, the flapper actuator is sucked open at idle, and below 5krpm. Perhaps some cars don't generate enough vac pressure to keep the flap fully seated?
    I was just about to correct my statement lol, I figure this out too and realize my mistake. So now I am looking at another option which I am currently working on. helping to push it close does stop the noise for me so I'm going to have a shop make me an arm that will be a few mili-meters shorter to help pull the flaps closed better. Its worth a shot.

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings Jimingle10's Avatar
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    Manchester NH

    Keep us updated and have the shop keep the design handy if it works! I know I would buy one

    Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    Senior Member Two Rings Dirtracer603's Avatar
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    Aug 15 2012
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    My Garage
    Custom stunt/street legal CRF250, 05 & 06 CBR600rr
    Location
    Fredericksburg, Va

    Quote Originally Posted by rocky.ca View Post
    After more investigation, the flapper actuator is sucked open at idle, and below 5krpm. Perhaps some cars don't generate enough vac pressure to keep the flap fully seated?
    Flapper is sucked closed from idle to 5,000 RPM's (it's a normally open design). There is no vag com parameters set up to monitor the actual flapper operation as it is vacuum controlled. There is a electro/pneumatic solenoid valve on the actuator line that relieves the vacuum at 5,000 rpm's so the flapper can open up.

  20. #20
    Senior Member Two Rings Dirtracer603's Avatar
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    Aug 15 2012
    AZ Member #
    98717
    My Garage
    Custom stunt/street legal CRF250, 05 & 06 CBR600rr
    Location
    Fredericksburg, Va

    Here is a quick video I made.....

  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings blaelock's Avatar
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    Sep 07 2013
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    San Diego

    I just shot a video of mine this morning. I shot this a few minutes after a cold start. Nothing happens when I touch the vacuum line on the front of the engine.

    1999 Techno Violet Metallic BMW M3
    2005 B6 S4 quattro Sedan 6MT Light Silver Metallic on Ebony Recaro Leather
    2004 BMW E46 330i Bilstein/Eibach B12 Pro Plus Suspension & Sway Bars
    1986 BMW E28 535i



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