968311
Front: progressive, 325-541lbs/in
Rear: linear, 610lbs/in
These are for quattro avant/cab, V6/TDI/TIP up to 1250kg front axle weight.
968310
Front: progressive, 285-473lbs/in
Rear: linear, 610lbs/in
These are for quattro avant/cab, 1.8T/2.0NA/1.6NA manuals up to 1080kg front axle weight.
I chose the 968311's after some discussion with Vogtland germany, imeant to post this before but i forgot about it haha
Glad you did, interesting to see the different options.
The Vogtlands from PureMS are #968467 and per Eric's epic coilover spring rate info thread here,
Vogtland
* Progressive front spring and linear rate rear spring
* Front has a working range of 500# (475#-525#) rear is 550#
* These numbers are from Vogtland USA. Height adjustable on car, dampening is preset by factory (otherwise non-adjustable)
I just popped Mike@Pure a quick email to re-confirm. We shall see.
EDIT: he's unable to confirm but can get all 6 kits available to our cars
And I must reiterate, the addition of the RS4 rear sway to these CO's is nothing short of fantastic. Even taking turns at completely nominal speeds is effortless and puts a smile on the face!
Last edited by a4darkness; 05-12-2011 at 01:42 PM.
- Thomas -latest pic | Engine Strengthening-Reliability Project | RogueEuro
-> Revo Stage 1, Forge TIP, ER Sport FMIC, NGK BKR7EIX Plugs, Mitsu Evo DV, Valeo SMFW 228mm Clutch, 034 HFC <-
WTB: H&R Front or Hotchkis S4 Sways
The play im talking about is rotational play, what im doing in the video is rotating the driveshaft between front and rear transaxles. The play is about 1/2" on the driveshaft, and 1-2mm on the inner CV joints.
I got the same rotational play you described. Basically it had the same amount of slop in both directions, forward to back and side to side. I don't recall how much slop I had on my 3.0 Avant when I changed the axle, but that was because it was such a quick job and I had it done in less than an hour vs. the nearly 2 months it took me to replace the CV joint on my S4 (due to getting the wrong part from ECS, which explained why I could never get it to work)
Ha, sounds like my control arm story.. The first side popped right the F off.. Next side.. Not so much, took me forever to get it off, just hitting it with a copper hammer over and over and over.. Prying and what not, I felt like I just went 8 rounds of boxing by the time it popped loose.
Ha, sounds like my control arm story.. The first side popped right the F off.. Next side.. Not so much, took me forever to get it off, just hitting it with a copper hammer over and over and over.. Prying and what not, I felt like I just went 8 rounds of boxing by the time it popped loose.
I was sore all over for 3days haha
Heres pics of my cutoff fab:
The stock cutoff shield, not so sharp
I took some leftover metal i have:
I cut it in half and shaped it with a battery to get the same curve as the stock shield:
Then i glued it with silicone to the stocker and put it back in:
I placed the shield closer towards the bulb to get even sharper cutoff, just enough for it to stay put while the silicone hardened. As you see the stocker didnt go all the way down over the lens, hence i had much light bleeding over the cutoff line(and glaring oncoming traffic, which is the main thing i wanted to prevent with my conversion).
With my "new", lower, cutoff shield i have zero bleed and no glare
Ill try get a video when its dark, of my non-glaring projectors! and of the light disturbution, its REALLY wide and even, im happy i did this.
Yesterday my horn grew out when some punk from my street decided to tailgate me in his mommys SUV. As we got out on highway on ramp i winded through 2nd-5th, the handling with the new suspension is insane felt like the car just wanted to faster, stable as a train, i have missed that feeling since my old audi s4..
Here is a picture my brother took of me and my two babies. He took this picture one week after he bought his first camera, just wanted to post it because i think he has talent.
Maaaaany of the photos i took came out good(at least to me ), so im gonna post them in three categories: The Red pics, the gray pics and the blue pics.
Im a noob at this, i have by no means any experience taking pictures and edit them. Many pictures are the same. I just borrowed my brothers camera and played around with the pics in lightroom and photoshop some, still experimenting and (hopefully) learning something
VERY NICE - no critique from here.
Custom blades came out nice.
MODS
Do u have the Bentley or Dealership Manual & Tools it takes to work on YOUR car properly? Or...
Are u just going to continue to wing it & keep expecting manna to fall from AZ?
Apikol>Snub/Diff APR>ExhTIP-TB hoses,Stg3 AWE>DV
JHM>ShortShift-the works
Misc> 18x8x9 235/265;HSport S4 barsTT225;Bosch-F6DTC;CarbonioV2+V6Intake Inlet;HFC;Podi-P2;ATP mani;GPopK04;034mounts
SPEC>Stg3+,LWFW
STaSIS>328/305mm,40/60,SL
Personal Motto>Walk Softly Carry a Big Stick
I really like the yellow city lights, they have a nice gold look. Where did you get them shits?
USP CLUB MEMBER #7 2005 BT Audi A4 USP 1.8TQ 6-speed Integrated-Engineering/Forge/ATP/Clutch-Masters/Garret/APR/Magnaflow/Tein/AWE/Innovative-Motorsports/OZ-Racing/United-Motorsports
Things for sale: http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/...00&ppuser=3228
Yeah well, it welds like a boss. Have to turn it dowwwwn to weld exhaust pipes haha
Spent about 3 hours yesterday welding pipes, im getting better but i need to get me a grinder. The hardest thing seems to be getting a good melt through the material but not get any big dabs on the inside, and you dont want big chucks of shit hanging in your exhaust/IC pipes.
This being my first post as a four ringer im going to make it somewhat worthwhile, im going BT this winter and the plan is to have the car running in the spring. Im going to do it in stages to keep the downtime to a minimum.
The goals for my build are response, reliability and stealth. Im not going for max horsepower.
Specs i have in mind:
HTA2868r eliminator with a cleaned up BEX mani
B5/6 S4 MAF
ID1000's
Maestro 7
3" DP with a high flow cat
Treadstone TR8 intercooler with 2" hotside and 2.25" coldside
240mm FX400 6-puck and steel LWFW
Stern soft motor/trans + apikol soft rear diff mount
That will be the first stage, and im going to do the DP, IC and clutch while on stock turbo. When i get all that figured out/running as intended, i will swap in the turbo/injectors and load up Maestro 7. I will be running it like this for a while to enjoy the car and to save up the funds for the next stage. I know the elim housing will hold me back, but im not intending to max it out at this point, im going to run it with an unopened longblock.
Second stage will consist of:
10:1-ish CR 83mm pistons
IE rods
PSi t25 mani
Inline fuelpump and upgraded system
3bar MAP
E85
Building the block on the side, ill figure out what i want for CR when i get to that point. break the motor in on ron98, upgrade fueling then tune it for E85.
This is the first build i planned myself, i will run into problems for sure, but problems = learning. Im just hoping to avoid the most stupid ones
I have owned a BAT audi s4 -92(think theyre called 5000 in the USA), that one i wrenched at night to get me to work in the morning, good times...
Great thread and nice work on the avant. I found this thread because I was looking for info on replacement fog lamps for my 2001 C5 A6 Avant.
I had a cracked lens and didn't want to pay the dealer $130+ for a OEM lamp. I ended up buying chinese knockoffs on eBay for $40 for the pair - including shipping. You get what you pay for. I agree that they are pretty cheap quality - stay away if you can! I needed to do some modding to compensate for the cheap quality but they do the job.
The lamps also came with two H3 bulbs which proceeded to burn out in under two months. It wasn't the filament that burned out but some other part of the bulb that caused them to fail. I find it difficult to find 55 watt H3 bulbs near where I live. Most places have 100 watt bulbs but I don't want to use those if that's not what is recommended. I found some LED H3 bulbs on eBay that I might try next. Does anyone have any experience with them or other H3 bulbs?
I'm also going to replace all my control arms later this year because some of the bushings are starting to get worn. I don't think (or know) that my control arms have never been replaced - the retaining bolt from manufacturing is still there though. I'm going to start adding penetrating oil to the pinch joint a week before I start the work!
Sounds like an awesome build. You will love the clutch...I have that same one.
That might be a while
How is the clutch engagement? some say it is very high but som say its right were the stocker is engaging?
Originally Posted by Batcave
Great thread and nice work on the avant. I found this thread because I was looking for info on replacement fog lamps for my 2001 C5 A6 Avant.
I had a cracked lens and didn't want to pay the dealer $130+ for a OEM lamp. I ended up buying chinese knockoffs on eBay for $40 for the pair - including shipping. You get what you pay for. I agree that they are pretty cheap quality - stay away if you can! I needed to do some modding to compensate for the cheap quality but they do the job.
The lamps also came with two H3 bulbs which proceeded to burn out in under two months. It wasn't the filament that burned out but some other part of the bulb that caused them to fail. I find it difficult to find 55 watt H3 bulbs near where I live. Most places have 100 watt bulbs but I don't want to use those if that's not what is recommended. I found some LED H3 bulbs on eBay that I might try next. Does anyone have any experience with them or other H3 bulbs?
I'm also going to replace all my control arms later this year because some of the bushings are starting to get worn. I don't think (or know) that my control arms have never been replaced - the retaining bolt from manufacturing is still there though. I'm going to start adding penetrating oil to the pinch joint a week before I start the work!
If your car has seen rough winters i strongly recommend buying/borrowing a torch when doing a control arm kit. The upper joints seizes like a mother and theres not much room to bang them out with the spindle still on.
I also recommend breaking loose all joints before your start taking them off, first knock out the tie rods(should be easier than the uppers), when it is loose, pop it back in and put the bolt on. Then start wrestling the uppers/pinch loose, when the uppers are loose, clean them and the pinch throughly and put it together again, just slide the pinch in.
Then bang loose the lower joints, those were pretty straight forward on mine, i loosened the nut and screwed it out til the threads on the joint werent showing and put a socket with some grease on to hold it in place and banged them loose.
Then its just changing out all arms, and be sure to torque all bolts that goes through a bushing, when the suspension is loaded. I just jacked up the spindle until the car barely lifted off the jackstand, then carnked them all down.
oh, and the tie rods are all different lengths, just measure from the center of the joint to the lock nut on your old ones and transfer the length to your new ones. Make sure you have an wheel alignment apointment in the next few days. Get the solid tie rods, i recommend the Meyle HD front end kit.
Glad you did, interesting to see the different options.
The Vogtlands from PureMS are #968467 and per Eric's epic coilover spring rate info thread here,
Vogtland
* Progressive front spring and linear rate rear spring
* Front has a working range of 500# (475#-525#) rear is 550#
* These numbers are from Vogtland USA. Height adjustable on car, dampening is preset by factory (otherwise non-adjustable)
I just popped Mike@Pure a quick email to re-confirm. We shall see.
EDIT: he's unable to confirm but can get all 6 kits available to our cars
And I must reiterate, the addition of the RS4 rear sway to these CO's is nothing short of fantastic. Even taking turns at completely nominal speeds is effortless and puts a smile on the face!
According to Mike @ Pure the only ones they sell are the 968309. Not sure where you got that weird part number (#968467) Thomas!
:)
I'm sure they would be fine on an Avant...but because Vogtland makes an "Avant-specific" kit (several actually) that's the f'ing one I want!!!
RAI | MTM Stage II | DSMIC | Fluidampr | FX400 | Vogtlant GT coilovers | B6 S4 brakes | ER TIP | Forge 007 | STaSIS | Stėrn | Apikol | JHM trio | Podi | OEM+
Bookmarks