Not a problem man, I should have expecting that myself but I was just clearing everything out before I do it myself, my car has 165,000 KM on it now without Trans, oil change.
Another question, how important changing the filter, because that is why the oil pan has to be removed. Do you think it is not enough going the easy way, drain from the drain plug then pump the new oil from the refill plug without the filter? At least it would be better than leaving the fluid for life time
How difficult inserting the pumping hose in the right direction?
Thanks Phile
Not a problem man, I should have expecting that myself but I was just clearing everything out before I do it myself, my car has 165,000 KM on it now without Trans, oil change.
Another question, how important changing the filter, because that is why the oil pan has to be removed. Do you think it is not enough going the easy way, drain from the drain plug then pump the new oil from the refill plug without the filter? At least it would be better than leaving the fluid for life time
How difficult inserting the pumping hose in the right direction?
Thanks Phile
The tricky part might be the filling process. The pan filter is a walk in the park and without question, I would replace the filter. If you check closely the pictures, you will see the pick up entry at the end of the filter: Check the color difference between the old one and the new one. Plus, the deposit on the magnets is microscopic and I am sure that this deposit has clogged the filter so to answer, I would not do this process without replacing the filter
Inserting the hose is really easy once you figured out the right position during the initial filling
Thanks for clearing that out for me. I just called the dealer they give me prices as follow
Oil is $64/ littler and they said I will need almost 9 litters to fill it up (can you verify that pls) total is $576
Gasket is $60.28
Filter is $108.27
labore 2.5 hours
Total parts is 744.55 I remember you just said around $350 total for parts. I am in Ontario Canada though.
I even called the USA dealer they even gave me higher prices, and said exactly the same it takes 9 litter for full fill, am I missing something here, because I saw you purchased the parts or $350 , thanks
Don't know Audi autos well enough yet... But if it is like other auto's, the torque converter will have fluid in there, so there usually are 2 numbers reported, full and refill, because when you drain the oil, you aren't removing the fluid from the converter.
That is make sense, but since we are doing all this work we might as well find out the best way to flush the whole system including the converter and refill it with brand new fluid , is there any way of doing that?
That is make sense, but since we are doing all this work we might as well find out the best way to flush the whole system including the converter and refill it with brand new fluid , is there any way of doing that?
A transmission flush... not drain and refill... unless you want to pull the transmission you have no way of removing the fluid out of the torque converter. This is from my knowledge of transmissions in general... not Audi trans. To do a flush, you need machines that are typically bought by shops.
I even called the USA dealer they even gave me higher prices, and said exactly the same it takes 9 litter for full fill, am I missing something here, because I saw you purchased the parts or $350 , thanks
JPT is right: You will not be flushing the entire circuit and I don't encourage you to do so
Price seems right but I had a better deal on the oil. I paid $45 per liter and I used 5.5 liter
I have been off this forum for a while, so I get in and find another great DIY! Thanks, Phil. I may note and actually stress to ONLY use Audi ATF for TIP cars. Go to the dealer, provide the VIN of your car so they get you the correct fluid. Last time I talked to the parts' guy at a local dealership and since I have an early 2006 build s-line he wasn't sure what fluid to provide unless I gave him the serial number from the transmission! on early 2006 there're three different types of transmission units used and each used a different type of ATF. they differ by color: yellow, blue and green. obviously, the tint...
I have been off this forum for a while, so I get in and find another great DIY! Thanks, Phil. I may note and actually stress to ONLY use Audi ATF for TIP cars.
What makes the Audi ATF fluid so special? This seems awfully pricey for ATF fluid. I know everyone is going to say that German cars are more expensive upkeep but fully synthetic ATF fluid for any other automobile is nowhere near these prices.
Here's a big money saving tip: You can get the OEM fluid from ZF at $32/Liter list price. Some discounters have it for less. It's called ZF Lifeguard Fluid 6. The bottle is even identical, except without the Audi label.
EDIT: I did some researching and it does appear that ZF is not clear about which fluid to use. Depending on which ZF documentation you read, your car may need LG6, LG6+, or LG8 (and each has a different tint). The stuff used in this writeup is the same as LG8, which can be had at thctsc.com for $35/liter.
Safest thing to do is get the model and serial number from the transmission housing, give the info to your Audi parts guy and buy OE fluid.
just wondering bc when i did my gear oil change (i know i have a 6 speed and this is for tips) but im thinking that your fill plug in picture 5 may not be the right 'phil' plug.....seehwatididtherE?
kidding aside there is a 10mm allan bolt to the side that you can see very easily in the same picture (#5), just above where you identified the fill plug i think thats the correct fill plug
my reasoning for it is bc on the 6speed gear box you use the same exact bolt as the fill plug
any thoughts on it?
Scott
I don't even have an audi....i just love me some 'zine
America is all about speed, hot, nasty, bad-ass speed - Eleanor Roosevelt
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