We've gone through a number of gear oils, and redline has the worst shear stregth of just about any fluid out there.
My recomendation would be the Titan Fuchs SintoFluid 75W90 or Motul Gear 300. We stock the Sintofluid here.... Best thing about the Fuchs is it is a performance oil that meets the OEM fluid specification.
We've gone through a number of gear oils, and redline has the worst shear stregth of just about any fluid out there.
My recomendation would be the Titan Fuchs SintoFluid 75W90 or Motul Gear 300. We stock the Sintofluid here.... Best thing about the Fuchs is it is a performance oil that meets the OEM fluid specification.
Good to know. I was just about to change the gear oil in my golf too.. Ill buy some motul
Royal purple 75-90 in both boxes and it meets the GL4 spec of the gear oil which is required and its cheaper then many alternatives. As is the 75-90 for both boxes by amsoil which also meets the GL4 spec which is required. Also cheaper as well and available at many auto parts stores. Both are full synthetic and have great properties (one of which being shear strength) and others like thermal stability and breakdown. Could do more detail but you would have to be a chemist almost to understand it.
hands down this stuff is the best... my old shop used it in all the race cars mainly Porsche, but works extremely well in the 01E and other quattro transmissions, ( even stop bad syncros from slipping in one customers TT) it is GL5 spec.
Race-proven gear oil
Special adhesive/cohesive formulation eliminates "dry starts", dramatically reducing initial start-up wear on pinion and ring gears
Helps improve "stiff shifting" manual transmissions
Reduces operating temperatures
Blended with highly refined pure paraffinic base stock and a high tech additive package, including SWEPCO's proprietary additive, LUBIUM®
Helps keep gearbox and transmission seals soft and pliable, reducing leakage
Meets all AGMA specifications, API GL-5, and MT-1
EP and limited slip differential additives
Available in SAE 80W-90, 90, 140 and 250; ISO Grade 150, 220, 320, 460, 680, 1000
I do ME7.1 and ME7.5 ecu tuning (stock-NA-Big turbo), emissions deletes, immo defeat, etc..
email me at coreyj03@gmail.com for more information.
hands down this stuff is the best... my old shop used it in all the race cars mainly Porsche, but works extremely well in the 01E and other quattro transmissions, ( even stop bad syncros from slipping in one customers TT) it is GL5 spec.
Race-proven gear oil
Special adhesive/cohesive formulation eliminates "dry starts", dramatically reducing initial start-up wear on pinion and ring gears
Helps improve "stiff shifting" manual transmissions
Reduces operating temperatures
Blended with highly refined pure paraffinic base stock and a high tech additive package, including SWEPCO's proprietary additive, LUBIUM®
Helps keep gearbox and transmission seals soft and pliable, reducing leakage
Meets all AGMA specifications, API GL-5, and MT-1
EP and limited slip differential additives
Available in SAE 80W-90, 90, 140 and 250; ISO Grade 150, 220, 320, 460, 680, 1000
It is not a good idea to use that fluid as it is a GL 5 spec luid and is not meant for out gear boxes. It is actually too slippery and will over time cause quite a bit of extra wear at contact surfaces.
It is not a good idea to use that fluid as it is a GL 5 spec luid and is not meant for out gear boxes. It is actually too slippery and will over time cause quite a bit of extra wear at contact surfaces.
if you put this in your fingers it strings like syrup, it wont cause wear... there are several cases where this stuff has actually gripped better on the syncros and caused gears not to grind anymore. also this oil is MT-1 approved (which means it does not cause harm to yellow metals)
If porsche 996, gt2/3 owners use this stuff then id say its safe for our transmissions. since some of the Porsche transmissions use a few of the same parts. ( I can prove this with because i came accross the parts when i build my last couple 01E's)
Last edited by coreyj; 01-26-2011 at 07:05 PM.
I do ME7.1 and ME7.5 ecu tuning (stock-NA-Big turbo), emissions deletes, immo defeat, etc..
email me at coreyj03@gmail.com for more information.
Dude this was on a balmy 60 degree day. Once the trans warmed up it was usable, but until it did the syncros did not work at all.
Do you even know how syncros work? lol. also i never said to use this in a VW 02j trans. i have this in my car right now and started it at 20*F this morning and had no issues whatsoever...
I do ME7.1 and ME7.5 ecu tuning (stock-NA-Big turbo), emissions deletes, immo defeat, etc..
email me at coreyj03@gmail.com for more information.
We've gone through a number of gear oils, and redline has the worst shear stregth of just about any fluid out there.
My recomendation would be the Titan Fuchs SintoFluid 75W90 or Motul Gear 300. We stock the Sintofluid here.... Best thing about the Fuchs is it is a performance oil that meets the OEM fluid specification.
I use motul gear 300 but I am curious how did you come to the conclusion that redline has worst shear strength?
Redline oils are based on esters (group V fluid) which is very shear resistant...
hands down this stuff is the best... my old shop used it in all the race cars mainly Porsche, but works extremely well in the 01E and other quattro transmissions, ( even stop bad syncros from slipping in one customers TT) it is GL5 spec.
Race-proven gear oil
Special adhesive/cohesive formulation eliminates "dry starts", dramatically reducing initial start-up wear on pinion and ring gears
Helps improve "stiff shifting" manual transmissions
Reduces operating temperatures
Blended with highly refined pure paraffinic base stock and a high tech additive package, including SWEPCO's proprietary additive, LUBIUM®
Helps keep gearbox and transmission seals soft and pliable, reducing leakage
Meets all AGMA specifications, API GL-5, and MT-1
EP and limited slip differential additives
Available in SAE 80W-90, 90, 140 and 250; ISO Grade 150, 220, 320, 460, 680, 1000
hey chief, where to get this stuff? at auto parts??
2000 S4//GIAC Tune//AWE Intake//AWE DTS Bar//Cross,Drilled Rotors//18" RS4's AtItalia//Bridgestone//Pioneer Navi//more to come
Im not saying that scott@advanced is wrong but my old jetta (02J) had first to second gear grinding issues even at low rpm, until I put the Redline shockproof in. Shifting felt like new again. (and my clutch wasnt bad)
I use motul gear 300 but I am curious how did you come to the conclusion that redline has worst shear strength?
Redline oils are based on esters (group V fluid) which is very shear resistant...
There are a couple different studies I've pulled found which showed how poorly the redline fluid sheared (note I do not know specifically which redline fluid it was, but I suspect it was MTL). Redline also scored poorly on the high temp particulate test. One study was done by Amsoil, and the other IIRC I saw it on bob is the oil guy.
We've also seen shear related gear face damage on some of the 01E's we have rebuilt which the owners stated they ran Redline for most of the trans' life.
Originally Posted by ThirdStrike
Im not saying that scott@advanced is wrong but my old jetta (02J) had first to second gear grinding issues even at low rpm, until I put the Redline shockproof in. Shifting felt like new again. (and my clutch wasnt bad)
People always testify a particular fluid worked great when it after flushing old fluid from the gearbox. This is not an objective test but rather and observation.It is highly likely that any fluid (be it redline, motul, or stock) would have likely displayed similar improvements due to the fact the old fluid was spent, or contaminated and likely needed to be changed in the first place. On another note, Audi and VW's lifetime fluid recommendation is a farce only implemented to sell gearboxes or parts (IMHO).
Originally Posted by J-b5
im guessing he had some tested after pulling it out of severely worn transmissions. but ill let him field that.
I've been meaning to send a few samples of some of the common gear lubricants as well as some of the shit drained from gearboxes to a couple of labs for analysis and evaluation, but haven't had much opportunity to do so.
Someone posted earlier a GL4 versus GL5 fluid. In the past most GL5 gear oils contained sulfur compounds which helped with smooth LSD clutch plate operation, however at elevated temperatures, the sulfur tended to bind with yellow metals (brass) found in syncro rings turning them into sludge. However modern chemistry has mostly eliminated sulfur in lubricants so it is now safe to run a GL5 fluid in a GL4 application. Just because a fluid is specified as being GL5 does not mean it won't function properly in a gearbox requiring
GL4, as long as the GL5 is sulfur free.
Last edited by Scotty@Advanced; 01-26-2011 at 07:58 PM.
Wanna do my manual trans fluid, and diff as well, because its noisy.
Is Redline any good? what to use on dff?
I searched.
tk
To directly answer your question, the best things to improve transmission life and performance is use a good oil, redline, motul, fuchs, factory whatever, don't shift like a tool, and change the fluid one every 2 years or 50K or if driven hard 1 year or 25K. If you ask me what I prefer, I say again Motul, factory or the Fuchs.
redline MT90 does not work well in cold weather (at least for me S4 - 2001.5 6mt)(and yes I know that you can mix MT90 and MTL and that that might work better in cold weather). Here in south eastern PA temps have been around 22F in the mornings. Shifting has not been easy. This past Friday night I switched back to the factory fluid (G 052 911 A2). Yes it was $26.00 per liter. Had to by 3. Since then shifting is fine especially the 1 to 2. No issues even this past Monday when it went down to -1F. When MT90 is warmed it works fine but, when it is below 35F I had issues.
i did the old fill till it leaks out and it damn near took 4 litres.... of course it was seeping out of the drivers side axle flange after i did that, so may thats not the best way. :)
the measured way is best but that stuff flows soooooooo slowly..
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