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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings jibberjive's Avatar
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    DIY: B6 A4 1.8t ** Upper Vacuum/Breather Hose Replacement (Brittle/Crumbly)

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    Preamble: When I was replacing the cam tensioner/valve cover gaskets on my car, the brittle vaccum hose coming out of the bottom of the 3-way elbow that the valve cover and PCV go into (hose #9 in the ETKA diagram below) crumbled in my hands. After doing some researching, apparently I'm not the only one this has happened to and this is a common failure from a poor material selection and oil soak combined with engine heat. Of all of the posts that I found, the only solutions that people posted were a revamp of the vaccum system/elimination of some hoses, or a repair that involved having to buy a whole new plastic "T" fitting under the intake manifold (#5 in the diagram, like a $35 part from ECS IIRC). Most threads I found had people saying that the hose and T-fitting were fused, and that is why you couldn't replace just the hose. When I went to the dealer to order just the hose, I was brought out a metal hose (the original was stiff plastic and a different shape) apparently from an update/revision, which would also require that I replace the T-fitting with a different version that would connect to the metal hose. Plus, the hose itself was priced something ridiculous, like $90. Anywho, I went for a DIY route, and I'm happy to say that I found a simple solution that required less than $10 in parts and you don't have to take off the intake manifold. You literally just replace the missing hose section with heater tubing and a male-to-male coupling. Even though it's simple, I'll make a noob friendly writeup since I took the time to take pictures.


    NOTES: The ETKA diagram is a generic one for the 1.8t and your motor may not look exactly like that. For example, the metal elbow coming off of my valve cover faced the rear, not the right side of the car, and the main hose in question (#9) wasn't shaped like that on mine. The intake manifold doesn't have to come off, and that's how this writeup was written, though it would definitely be easier to get the clip off of the bottom of hose #2 with the intake manifold out of the way. You choose.





    TOOLS:

    - LONG flathead screwdriver
    - Smaller flathead (for electrical connectors)
    - Phillips screwdriver
    - Pliers
    - 5mm allen or hex key
    - Lighter

    PARTS:

    - Approx. 1.5' of 3/4" heater hose (you could probably get away with 12", I didn't measure after I trimmed)
    - 3/4" male-to-male hose coupler kit (I purchased both the hose and coupler from Autozone)



    - Simple worm-style hose clamps from hardware or auto store (note: you may not need 1 or 2 of the bigger clamps that I got, because I may have lost one of the re-usable Audi clamps)
    1 3/4"
    2 1-1/16"
    1 1-1/2"
    And if your coupler kit doesn't come with clamps, then you'll want 2 more 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" clamps




    PROCEDURE:

    -Just to give an overview, the goal is to get this hose assembly out so that we can replace the yellow (circled) hose (which is cut in half in this picture.)



    Yellow is #9 in ETKA, Blue is #2, Red is #24, Green is #10. From here on out I will refer to them by those colors.


    -Start by taking the 3-way elbow off of the back of the head/PCV, and disconnect the small hose from the junction off of the head (red circle). I use locking vise grips for the re-usable clamps. Disconnect the sensor with the orange arrow.






    - Back in that area there is a zip-tie wire fastener that clips into a tab on the yellow tube. If this tab hasn't already crumbled off, you can get the zip-tie clip out of the hole by squeezing the tabs with needle-nose pliers.

    - We now take off the throttle body. Unclip the electrical connector on the bottom of the TB. Loosen off the big clamp. Get the big hose off the front (it might help to grab the hose and push and pull to flex the hose off of the lip). Undo the 4 hex bolts holding the TB on.

    - Unmount the coolant reservoir. There's a single phillips screw on the front, and the back in held in place with two tabs. To get the tank out of the two tabs, you need to lift the front of the reservoir and pull up and towards you. This is a little tricky with all of the hoses connected. Disconnect the electrical connector on the bottom of the reservoir, and rest it out of the way towards the front of the car.




    - Unhook the green hose, which is on the driver's side of the intake manifold. Unhook the senor with the arrow.




    - Unhook this green sensor (we're trying to make as much room as possible to work with down there, which isn't much.)




    - Now the hardest part of this all, remove the clip holding on the blue hard pipe so that you can pull it straight up and out. Below are pictures of the clip, the pipe and the location. Because there's no room to work with, the clip is TOUGH to get off. I started out by going at it from above, through the slot between the intake manifold runners with the LONG screwdriver. To get in behind the clip to get it started, I used a little mallet. Once the blade was in, I twisted the screwdriver to pull it out a little. I also got vice grips on it from the side, but IIRC I finally got it off with some finagling with the screwdriver from above. Putting this back on is fun too. Once the clip is off, pull straight up and the hose just slides out.










    - Now that those 4 connections (yellow, red, blue and green) are off, you need to wiggle the assembly out from under there. I had to cut the yellow pipe in half (it's the one getting replaced) to get rid of some of the bends and make it easier to pull out. Leave the last bend on the yellow pipe though, because it's going to be beneficial when trying to twist the pipe to break whatever bonding may have occurred at the T fitting. It should look something like this (the same picture I posted at the beginning).




    - Now, to get the old hose off. I was expecting this to be bonded like everyone was saying, and I thought I'd probably have to go pay for the Audi specific parts at this point, but to my surprise, this part was really easy. It was really cold in the garage, so that may have helped, but I just grabbed the yellow tube and twisted. It popped and broke whatever bonding may have occurred. Once the bond was broken and the pipe was spinning freely, I got a lighter and heated up the hose at the fitting. Since the hose was relatively flexible material and the T fitting was hard plastic, I wasn't too worried about melting the fitting. With a little heat, the hose pulled right off the barbed fitting!




    - On with the new hose and clamp.




    - Installation is the reverse of this. Once you wiggle the hose assembly back up in there, cut the hose to the right length and install the male-to-male coupler, which goes into the bottom of the 3-way elbow. Getting that hard clip back on the bottom hose under the intake mani is a pain. I got it situated with my hand, and used a screwdriver and a mallet from the side to get it seated. Also, take note of the throttle body orientation when reinstalling it (reference the pic below). Other than that, just re-install everything and pat yourself on the back for saving $150+ in Audi parts, and at least the same amount on labor!







    Edit: This should probably be in the tech section, if someone wants to relocate it.
    Last edited by jibberjive; 12-29-2010 at 10:13 AM.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings PSU S4's Avatar
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    Nice write up, good work. Very well detailed and well written.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings rickadoe's Avatar
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    this should be put in the diy section...i recently went through hours of searching and had same issue to replace hose. Great write up!!!
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings msharifi's Avatar
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    I did this today I had to change the breather hose taking the clip and putting back is the hardest part. Does any one know if once the clip is inserted should the breather hose be kinda loose?

  5. #5

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings jibberjive's Avatar
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    Wow, two or so people having to do this this soon after it was written, I guess this might be more prevalent than I thought.

    Quote Originally Posted by msharifi View Post
    I did this today I had to change the breather hose taking the clip and putting back is the hardest part. Does any one know if once the clip is inserted should the breather hose be kinda loose?
    As long as you have the clip above the lip on the hardpipe and the sealing ring/gasket stayed in place, you should be fine.
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    Yeah, once the clip is in, it will still have a little bit of movement to it.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings msharifi's Avatar
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    I'm one happy person the vibration is gone and now I know for sure I don't need engine mounts. It's funny how I didn't get check engine for long time until recently. My boost Gage shows the right vacuum reading. It was hard to find it.The cracked breather hose had a hair line crack but once I took it out man it had so many cracks and holes. I wil post pictures soon.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings jibberjive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by msharifi View Post
    I'm one happy person the vibration is gone and now I know for sure I don't need engine mounts.
    Woooaa, I just realize that the rattle/vibration that I had is gone now too! I thought it was possibly the flywheel, broken cat inside, heatshield, or something, but it was simply this! So stoked! For future reference, my rattle was at about 2k RPMs, was worse under load and went away above/below that RPM range. Sounded like some sort of metallic rattle. If you've got a similar rattle, check your vaccum tube!
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings msharifi's Avatar
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    Guys after I did the breather hose replacement I just checked for codes and I'm getting the following codes.

    16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
    P0011 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

    What is the fix for this? I read on the forum Timing belt skipped one tooth but I dont think thats the cause because when I ran for codes before I didn't see it just today when I wanted to see if any codes were showing.

  11. #11
    Active Member One Ring
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    I have P0300, 301, and 302 error codes. I'm going to try this tomorrow and hopefully it will solve my problems. I also hear a quiet but noticible noise/ rattle around 2000 rpm. I also have a strong sell of oil? / exhaust? / fumes at an idle. (I usually notice it when going through a drive through for a snack) Sometimes it's bad enough to make my eyes burn a little. I'm sure i'll update with problems and questions before the project is done. Any additional tips would be appreciated!

  12. #12
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    The elbow that attaches to the block breather on top of the oil filter housing failed on my car and pieces of plastic were making their way into the oil pan. Its the one circled in blue and held in place with the c-clip. Just an FYI to anyone that may have a similar issue. I picked up a replacement silicone hose with a billet fitting from 034 and am installing it as part of my engine rebuild, along with several other silicone pieces to eliminate as many of the stock rubber pieces as possible.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaRtharsis View Post
    The elbow that attaches to the block breather on top of the oil filter housing failed on my car and pieces of plastic were making their way into the oil pan. Its the one circled in blue and held in place with the c-clip. Just an FYI to anyone that may have a similar issue. I picked up a replacement silicone hose with a billet fitting from 034 and am installing it as part of my engine rebuild, along with several other silicone pieces to eliminate as many of the stock rubber pieces as possible.
    Did you have to clean out those plastic bits before running the engine (I guess this is a moot point if you're rebuilding the whole thing)....

    I am replacing my breather hose (which was brittle and came off the metal piece when trying to remove it) and I am sure at least a few small plastic bits fell inside the housing...I'd rather not have to take everything apart (in fact it's almost nearly impossible).

    Thanks!

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings jibberjive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaRtharsis View Post
    The elbow that attaches to the block breather on top of the oil filter housing failed on my car and pieces of plastic were making their way into the oil pan. Its the one circled in blue and held in place with the c-clip. Just an FYI to anyone that may have a similar issue. I picked up a replacement silicone hose with a billet fitting from 034 and am installing it as part of my engine rebuild, along with several other silicone pieces to eliminate as many of the stock rubber pieces as possible.
    Integrated Engineering has a billet fitting as well
    http://www.intengineering.com/Billet...14999-1-2.html

    Quote Originally Posted by dantm View Post
    I am replacing my breather hose (which was brittle and came off the metal piece when trying to remove it) and I am sure at least a few small plastic bits fell inside the housing...I'd rather not have to take everything apart (in fact it's almost nearly impossible).

    Thanks!
    Be careful with that
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  15. #15
    Active Member Two Rings
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    For the Purple Hose the end got stuck inside where the clip comes out, I only have a small bit thats still stuck inside. It doesn't slide up at all what's the best way to remove the piece of the purple hose that ripped out? any help? :( I cant get much access to it

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    ^Yeah, it's a pain and why I always at least partially pull the manifold when I'm replacing this crap. Last time I did one I had to pretty much attack it with some pliers and screwdrivers to pry and pull the last bit out of there (the metal reinforced section was stuck and broke off in there, as with yours). It was nasty.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
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  17. #17
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by walky_talky20 View Post
    ^Yeah, it's a pain and why I always at least partially pull the manifold when I'm replacing this crap. Last time I did one I had to pretty much attack it with some pliers and screwdrivers to pry and pull the last bit out of there (the metal reinforced section was stuck and broke off in there, as with yours). It was nasty.
    basically that metal ring inside is that a part of the tubing or part of the engine?
    I have the bottom inch of plastic still stuck in from this picture. You think removing the manifold would make it easier to get out? also should i not try to stick in a screw driver or a knife and tap it down to get one side cut up?

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings Ricke166's Avatar
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    I was planning on doing my rear coolant flange and came across brittle hose and followed them through to find my breather hoses was damaged. I ended up doing the breather hose and used this as a reference! very helpful. It was a complete pain trying to remove the clip, but even a bigger pain to put the clip back on. After hours of fussing with it, i managed to fit a hammer into the area and use it to push the clip in. But anyways, thanks op for putting this up, definitely should be in the DIY section because this is a very common failure for our cars. The audi dealership had 7 of these breather hoses in stock.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings jibberjive's Avatar
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    Maybe I should make the note bigger that people may want to just remove the intake mani. It would probably really make it 10 times easier.
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  20. #20
    Senior Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jibberjive View Post
    Maybe I should make the note bigger that people may want to just remove the intake mani. It would probably really make it 10 times easier.
    I mean I did this using your walkthrough (thanks btw!) and found it a pretty big hassle without removing the manifold. I basically didn't feel comfortable enough with my mechanical skill to want to fuss with taking the manifold off. In retrospect it may have been easier to just remove it, but I got it done even with my fat fingers. Only a few bloody knuckles... Surprisingly, putting the clip back in was pretty easy for me, at least after I realised the old o-ring was still stuck in the oil cooler. Routing the relatively bulky heater hose proved to be more difficult. I still need to take a few hours to reroute it since its too long and bent almost 60 after the valve cover splitter thing.
    -CP
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings n7plus1's Avatar
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    if you use a long skinny pair of needle nose you can pry that broken piece out. I had the same problem and i didnt have time to remove the IM.

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings
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    good thread ;) I just replaced the downpipe on mine (part number 2) that goes in to the oil filter housoing. This had broken off just on top of the housing and the remainder of the plastic was pretty brittle too. I didnt need to remove the IM or even the throttle body. Instead, like you suggested i moved the coolant header tank out of the way, loosened the steel coolant pipe that is mounted on the IM, disconnected the connector below it to gain some space and then 'fed' pipe 9 with the associated t-piece through the pipes on the side. I then manouveured this from the side from under the IM. A bit tricky but if you look at it logically you can see what is restricting the movement. Move this out of the way and you're in business! There was a fair amount of crud in the pipework so this was cleaned with Carb cleaner and blown through with compressed air.
    When refitting, I found it easier to approach this from the side of the car. I didnt tighten up the clamp too much on the downpipe to allow it to move around as appropriate. I also applied a thin coat of oil onto the green o-ring and the bottom edge of the downpipe to facilitate fitting. Once in place approximately, from the passenger side (i'm in the UK so the LHS!) of the car, i pressed the downpipe into the oil fiter assembly, gradually 'walking' it into the hole, with my right hand. When it was about right i pressed it a bit more firmly on the bend with my left hand and pushed the spring clip in with my thumb! Hope that makes sense, and hope its of assistance to somebody.

    This is easier than replacing the coolant flange, so dont be put off by this job. I've unfortunately done both recently...

    I'll probably remove the oil filter housing later in the year to give it a good clean out, once i've worked out how to get it off
    Last edited by fla; 12-06-2011 at 10:16 AM.

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings Samulis's Avatar
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    I just replaced the Crank breather as well as well as the upper vacuum hose. I was planning on only replacing the upper hose, but my crank breather fell apart while I was removing the assembly. I used the OEM parts and they were a bitch to get back together. I needed to heat both hoses with a lighter to fit then over the T fitting/Check valve. I also was able to insert the clip using only my hand. I had a check engine light as soon as I fired the motor up, but quickly realized that I forgot to connect one of the small hoses on the bottom of the intake manifold. Overall, wasn't a bad.

  24. #24
    Senior Member Four Rings CrazyCal's Avatar
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    I just recently did this with the 034 Motorsport kit. IMO It's so much easier if you just remove the intake manifold. It's not that hard. I don't know why people think it's so difficult...
    ~Calvin
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  25. #25
    Senior Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyCal View Post
    I just recently did this with the 034 Motorsport kit. IMO It's so much easier if you just remove the intake manifold. It's not that hard. I don't know why people think it's so difficult...
    For me it was the mental intimidation of removing large pieces of the engine! If I were to go back I would have slapped myself and just removed the IM. My hands are WAY too sausagey to be working in those enclosed spaces!
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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings jibberjive's Avatar
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    Agreed, if I ever did it again, and I had the ability to get a gasket beforehand, I'd just pull the intake mani. It would prob be 10x easier.
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  27. #27
    Active Member Two Rings isco6's Avatar
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    I just replaced the blue part as well. It was very brittle and a couple of small pieces plastic fell in the hole. I couldn't get to them so I just put it together
    and went with it. Not sure how smart it was. It helped it run a little better still idles rough. I haven't reset the cel yet so maybe it will run right
    when I do it. This write up was a great help though.
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  28. #28
    Senior Member Three Rings blackfc3s's Avatar
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    Um.....if the blue part crumbled and went into the oil filter pedestal, thats bad. You either will get lucky and it will come out in your next oil change or its trapped somewhere in your engine. Usually when that happens you have to take off the oil cooler and the pedestal to get all the little bits out. Good luck.

  29. #29
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Question, I did they DIY, went great. Didn't even take the mani off. Now that it is said and done for about 7 months now I have come to realize that the hose i put in completely collapses at all times when the engine is running. Also haven't heard my DV since but a slight pheeew noise when letting of the gas. Does the heater hose collapse for everyone or is it just me. I'm about to change out my DV and possibly buy the actual part for this but if it's doing this with everyone I won't bother. I have no boost under a full load as well. Got a lot of issues to sort out while I have the $ to do it. Thanks guys.

  30. #30
    Registered Member One Ring
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    westport. CT

    Thanks for such a greart write-up.

  31. #31
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Jun 11 2013
    AZ Member #
    116992
    Location
    Corvallis, Or

    That was so helpful! I did this today, I thought I was going to have to take the manifold off. The worst part was getting out the little bits of plastic pieces that fell into the oil filter thing. I found a site that offered an upgraded section of the breather hose. I hope it'll work better than the stock setup, this one has a revised elbow and they took out the T section.
    http://www.urotuning.com/Breather-Ho...B-Breather.htm

  32. #32
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Aug 08 2013
    AZ Member #
    120550
    Location
    Netherlands

    I cant find or see any images which should be attached in this thread!!

    Could somebody please upload new images or send me the DIY to wise@home.nl?

    Thanks for your help!!

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings a4darkness's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 01 2007
    AZ Member #
    23015
    Location
    West Sonoma County <-> SF, CA
    Items for Sale

    Unsure why you can't see them man... they're all still there on the 1st page. Are you using the mobile site? If so try switching to the regular version (link at the bottom of the page).

    Quote Originally Posted by WiSETuning View Post
    I cant find or see any images which should be attached in this thread!!

    Could somebody please upload new images or send me the DIY to wise@home.nl?

    Thanks for your help!!

  34. #34
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 27 2013
    AZ Member #
    119760
    Location
    Galway

    I tried to remove the following



    I lifted it up the way and it broke, the plastic and copper are still in the engine. They wont come out and no room to maneuver. What is under this pipe? What happens if bits of plastic fall into the engine, will they get caught in the Oil Filter? Also why is there so much sludge in these pipes?

  35. #35
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Mar 25 2014
    AZ Member #
    164392
    Location
    United States

    Thanks for this thread. I was replacing my valve cover gasket and came across the broken/cracked breather hose as well as a broken elbow.

    I almost gave up on the c-clip but ended up grabbing onto the lip from the side with an adjustable, sticking a flathead in from the top between the adjustable and the tube wall, and turning the flathead. This brought the clip out far enough that I was able to get the flathead in and it was just coaxing and cursing from there until it was out.

    I replaced my cracked elbow with one from ECS that did not have the extra bit on the small side to slide a hose over. http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2602472/ I fit it onto my t-piece (as shown in this kit http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...Kit/ES2214901/) with a short section of 3/4 heater hose and clamps.

    Anyway, thanks again.

  36. #36
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Aug 20 2014
    AZ Member #
    276537
    Location
    Texas

    how do i fit the new breather hose on the pcv valve without breaking anything?

  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '09 CC VR6 Sport
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Quote Originally Posted by (A)(U)(D)(I) View Post
    how do i fit the new breather hose on the pcv valve without breaking anything?
    It may not be possible. The plastic components and hoses get brittle over time from the heat and hydrocarbon exposures. Your best bet is to plan on replacing all of the components from the block breather hose up to the valve cover as well as to the intake manifold. You will be much better off in the long run. Even if you manage to replace just one of the components, the others will probably fail fairly soon after being pushed, pulled and prodded to replace the component currently causing your problem.

  38. #38
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Aug 20 2014
    AZ Member #
    276537
    Location
    Texas

    well, i've purchased everything but the block breather hose (which i'm getting from the dealership in the next thirty minutes), but i don't know how to fit part 06b103213ak over the barbs on the pcv valve without potentially breaking it.

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '09 CC VR6 Sport
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Heat the hoses to make them more flexible before attempting assembly.

  40. #40
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Aug 20 2014
    AZ Member #
    276537
    Location
    Texas

    Ah, I suspected that and I'm grateful for your confirmation! Thank you!



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