Made this slideshow of pix I took while doing the bank2 cam adjuster replacement on my S4. I tried to arrange them in order of the process, some are dupes but it gives the general idea of what I did. Part numbers are below for anyone getting ready to do this job [timing componant part #'s are different for bank1]. Cam parts are all in revised latest versions.
Wow, nice work getting to that with the motor in the car. Curious as to if you needed to lock in the timing at all before removing the chain?
Yes, I removed the FI fuse and blipped the ignition until the cam slits were close to alignment then used a pry bar to turn the flywheel a few teeth, after the slits aligned I locked them in with angle iron. Hence why I removed both valve covers.
Originally Posted by halik
Wow I'll be fucking damned, this needs to be stickied. I could've sworn there just insn't enough space to get the coolant hard pipes out of the way.
Golf clap in either case, excellent job!
LOL its a mix of finesse and muscle to deal with the rear coolant manifold. Unbolt it on both sides, remove the short coolant hose, then muscle it backwards and prop it with a section of wood block. The pipe that runs along bank2; theres a hidden hex bolt below cyl.7 right above the exhaust manifold, remove the bolt and wedge the pipe down on top off the downpipe. At that point the timing cover can slide back, clear the hydraulic controller and be removed.
Originally Posted by dmaxben
Nice job, great pics!! I always just assumed the engine had to come out to replace those...Is bank 1 any easier or harder to access?
Ben
LOL if this was biblical times I would have been crucified for saying this could be done without pulling the motor! According to every Audi tech I spoke to while acquiring all the parts I needed basically told me 'get ready to be disappointed, it can't be done' when I asked for tricks on doing the job in chassis. BTW bank1 is the easy side.....
Originally Posted by Tony951
Wow that's gotta be tight! Did you use any of the special tools for this - ie trim adjusters, camshaft holder, cam position sensor setting tool, etc??
Yeah some of my tools had to go on a diet plan.
Only special tools I needed were 2 pieces of angle iron to lock the camshafts and hall sensor setting gauge T40047.
Those techs lied to you... they wanted your money. I've done it in car before.... you however are amazing. I did this on a lift with the front of the subframe hanging down to give more room in the rear. I'm very impressed. How would you like a job as an Audi tech? LOL
Thanks for posting this. Ive said 100 times it can be done and Ive done it now atleast 17 times. I lower the motor a little and drop the trans mounts a bit to help but great job.
Let me know if your interested Ill put this in the Tech section
If you don't have haters, then you're not kicking enough ass.
AMA and YES! Together we can all defeat 2.0t and 2.7t crime...
And lastly for the grammar police that are bound to step in
I came here from Germany in the 6th grade. I could not read or write a lick of English. I am working to get better. Thanks and sorry. I always try to edit my posts for the best grammar and easiest reading.
Freaking great post, I wouldn't have believed it without the pics. Although at this point, I think following Joey's motor pull on EA and doing both side might make the job a bit easier and more worthwhile, and then maybe reward yourself with a header install as well hehe. That is seriously impressive work in a very cramped space though and really appreciate you posting up the pictures of it! Get your ass in the tech section, cross post this for others to enjoy, and make some more great posts for us all to enjoy!
2005.5 S4 MT6 lJHM Parts: Stg 1 Supercharger, Long Tube Headers, IM, SS Trio, LW Front Rotors, LWFW, Stg IV clutch, 4:1 Diff, Stern Motor Mounts, Snub/Trans/Diff Mounts, F.I. Res B6 Exhaust, Pedals &Weighted Shifter l H&R C.O. 24.75" G-F, 034 Adj UCA's, H-Sport RS4 Rear Sway l Hawk HPS Pads, SS lines & SuperBlue l Fly'sV4 LEDs l 15% Tint, 50% Front l VMR V710 GM 19" & Enkie RPF01's l JL 10W7, Focal Components l V1 Mirror Display l
Those techs lied to you... they wanted your money. I've done it in car before.... you however are amazing. I did this on a lift with the front of the subframe hanging down to give more room in the rear. I'm very impressed. How would you like a job as an Audi tech? LOL
That means a lot coming from an Audi master technician, thanks! I have a degree in automotive technology..maybe its time I use it for profits
Originally Posted by Justincredible
Thanks for posting this. Ive said 100 times it can be done and Ive done it now atleast 17 times. I lower the motor a little and drop the trans mounts a bit to help but great job.
Let me know if your interested Ill put this in the Tech section
Thats fine with me if you want to cross post it in the Tech section. Over my spare time I'd like to write it into a DIY, right now I just wanted to put it out there as an alternative thats possible over the traditional engine pull for this repair.
Damn..you did this 17 times now, respect man..hows your back and forehead btw?
Originally Posted by mbgt72
Freaking great post, I wouldn't have believed it without the pics. Although at this point, I think following Joey's motor pull on EA and doing both side might make the job a bit easier and more worthwhile, and then maybe reward yourself with a header install as well hehe. That is seriously impressive work in a very cramped space though and really appreciate you posting up the pictures of it! Get your ass in the tech section, cross post this for others to enjoy, and make some more great posts for us all to enjoy!
My pleasure and thanks! I'm happy to contribute and get this out there for others to see and hopefully benefit from.
My S4 expense account has to recuperate right now but JHM LT headers are in my future..one set for the car and one set to put in a glass case to admire
Bookmarked. And thanks! I will be doing this exact procedure in a couple weeks now. I thought I would need to pull the motor and I figured I'd do all the timing bits on it while out, but I don't have much time for that and I have to stop driving the 951 since it's gonna snow soon :). I just need to get the car on the road at the moment and this is what I needed. It's been siting in the garage since June cause I haven't been able to find the time to get to it. Do you have a time estimate it took you to do this start to finish?
Some of the part numbers seem off.... any clarification would be appreciated.
079109087N — Cam Adjuster (looks correct, current price $465.75)
N91086201 — Cam Adjuster Bolt
079109204L — Control Housing [bank 2] (this looks like it's the entire adjuster assembly with adjuster. See item #16 in diagram)
079109204L Engine - Camshaft & timing - Variable valve timing - Adjuster assy TIMINGCASE 2004 - 2008 $635.38
079109091B — Control Housing Gasket
079109204J — Chain Tensioner [bank 2] (wrong part number?)
079109204L Engine - Camshaft & timing - Chain case Chain case, a6, left - 4.2l (v8) 2005 - 2010 $635.38 Part number 079109204J was superceded by part number 079109204L.
Best of luck on the repair! Time estimates will vary heavily on this way of replacement, if you have all the parts and supplies ready and you don't run into any problems it can be done enthusiastically in a weekend but I would take as much time as you need since timing work on this engine is very delicate.
Originally Posted by S4iowa
079109087N — Cam Adjuster (looks correct, current price $465.75)
Yes, and thats the latest revision.
Originally Posted by S4iowa
079109204L — Control Housing [bank 2] (this looks like it's the entire adjuster assembly with adjuster. See item #16 in diagram)
079109204L Engine - Camshaft & timing - Variable valve timing - Adjuster assy TIMINGCASE 2004 - 2008 $635.38
Thats the real sad part...its only the control housing, no adjuster included
Originally Posted by S4iowa
079109204J — Chain Tensioner [bank 2] (wrong part number?)
079109204L Engine - Camshaft & timing - Chain case Chain case, a6, left - 4.2l (v8) 2005 - 2010 $635.38
Part number 079109204J was superceded by part number 079109204L.
Sorry! my mistake, its 079109217J for the chain tensioner [bank 2].
The housing (079109204L ) is a necessary part of this?
Logically if its not part of the problem and its tested, inspected, and functioning to spec than no. Its just a really smart measure to replace it while you're in there, and you're already saving $1000's doing the job yourself so why not. The new one is revised and it may cost you in the long run if you have to tear in all back down again to replace the old one. The electro-mechanical controller valve is what wears out.
Logically if its not part of the problem and its tested, inspected, and functioning to spec than no. Its just a really smart measure to replace it while you're in there, and you're already saving $1000's doing the job yourself so why not. The new one is revised and it may cost you in the long run if you have to tear in all back down again to replace the old one. The electro-mechanical controller valve is what wears out.
Thanks. I didn't understand the purpose of that part, I was thinking it was just a metal cover. But since it seems critical to the operation of the adjuster, I'd say it's a good idea to replace it also. I wish I could use my bentley manual, but it won't load on Win7
This is awesome, great work!!!!!!!!!!!! Just curious what mileage your at when your cam adjuster failed?
Thanks! I bought it with the need of a cam adjuster replacement, for reference the mileage at purchase was 125k.
Originally Posted by S4iowa
Thanks. I didn't understand the purpose of that part, I was thinking it was just a metal cover. But since it seems critical to the operation of the adjuster, I'd say it's a good idea to replace it also. I wish I could use my bentley manual, but it won't load on Win7
No problem and yeah its as critical as the adjuster itself.
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Originally Posted by beemercer
, respect man..hows your back and forehead btw?
with some mods
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