DIY S3 K04 Kit (under development)

[Satummoo]

I wonder if we all contacted BW, if they would produce a k04 for our engine type. The only thing they would need to do is change a few minor things.

[baldy]

Ok, so a little progress update...

I updated the parts list on the previous page and removed a few items not neccessary (can't be used, or don't apply) but added an oil line. We tried to bend one of the oil lines and it just wasn't worth chancing it as it needs to be bent quite a bit.. All in all, I removed about $50 in parts from the list, but added $89 (39 difference) for the oil line..

The intake valves were a bit of mystery. Cylinder 1 was fairly clean with bare metal about half inch showing around the edge of the valves... Cylinder 3 was the same, but slightly more on the stems.... Cylinder 2 was covered a little more, but mainly around the stems, and cylinder 4 was the worst with one of the valves being completely caked. That being said, I bought a product from my local GM dealer called CLEENS... Sprayed in, and let the valves soak for 4 hours (removed the metal reeds and let them soak out of the engine).. The carbon on the reeds was loosened to the point i was able to wipe it off with a rag. The valves got almost fully clean using a nylon pipe brush (used for cleaning paint guns), with the remainder being cleaned with a rounded right angle pick tool (using rounded barrell, not the sharp tip)...

Also replaced the fuel return valve with the RS4 valve, and replaced the N80 while I had everything apart.

Using the Stasis instructions, everything went without a snag minus loosening the turbo support bracket bolt on the turbo itself. Needed to use oxy-acetylene torch to heat it up to loosen it.

All in all, just shy of 10 hours total so far, with about 3.5 or so hours running around to pickup the missing oil line, brushes, cleaner, and 2 coolant line washers.

Monday, she's off to get the downpipe, turbo inlet T-pipe, throttle body T-pipe, and HFC flange welded on.. One thing to note, is the the inner bottom ear of the manifold needed to be trimmed down for the manifold to clear the engine mount. Simplest way to explain how much to trim is to cut the manifold hole off, and drill a new one... The post on the first page by solaris (http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/audi-s4...-progress.html) shows you which ear to cut.

It looks like it's possible to machine the manifold to fit our flanges, but would need to fill 3 of holes for the studs and move them inwards about half an inch or so.. Either way, welding a new flange on isn't the end of the world.. I'll post some pics up in the next few days...

[solaris10]

Ok, so a little progress update...

I updated the parts list on the previous page and removed a few items not neccessary (can't be used, or don't apply) but added an oil line. We tried to bend one of the oil lines and it just wasn't worth chancing it as it needs to be bent quite a bit.. All in all, I removed about $50 in parts from the list, but added $89 (39 difference) for the oil line..

The intake valves were a bit of mystery. Cylinder 1 was fairly clean with bare metal about half inch showing around the edge of the valves... Cylinder 3 was the same, but slightly more on the stems.... Cylinder 2 was covered a little more, but mainly around the stems, and cylinder 4 was the worst with one of the valves being completely caked. That being said, I bought a product from my local GM dealer called CLEENS... Sprayed in, and let the valves soak for 4 hours (removed the metal reeds and let them soak out of the engine).. The carbon on the reeds was loosened to the point i was able to wipe it off with a rag. The valves got almost fully clean using a nylon pipe brush (used for cleaning paint guns), with the remainder being cleaned with a rounded right angle pick tool (using rounded barrell, not the sharp tip)...

Also replaced the fuel return valve with the RS4 valve, and replaced the N80 while I had everything apart.

Using the Stasis instructions, everything went without a snag minus loosening the turbo support bracket bolt on the turbo itself. Needed to use oxy-acetylene torch to heat it up to loosen it.

All in all, just shy of 10 hours total so far, with about 3.5 or so hours running around to pickup the missing oil line, brushes, cleaner, and 2 coolant line washers.

Monday, she's off to get the downpipe, turbo inlet T-pipe, throttle body T-pipe, and HFC flange welded on.. One thing to note, is the the inner bottom ear of the manifold needed to be trimmed down for the manifold to clear the engine mount. Simplest way to explain how much to trim is to cut the manifold hole off, and drill a new one... The post on the first page by solaris (http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/audi-s4...-progress.html) shows you which ear to cut.

It looks like it's possible to machine the manifold to fit our flanges, but would need to fill 3 of holes for the studs and move them inwards about half an inch or so.. Either way, welding a new flange on isn't the end of the world.. I'll post some pics up in the next few days...

Hi baldy, I found the best way to do the turbo flange was to trim back the ear and retap the hole for the stud as per my progress thread link on your post. With regards to the down pipe, get hold of the k04 flange modify the same ear and weld it to the down pipe. I used the RAI 4" to 3" down pipe and asked the guys not to weld the turbo flange on but insted send me a k04 flange.

[xULx]

Holy shit Solaris. I read you entire thread on the other site, and watched your car get tuned. Great job and sexy car! Keep this going guys, its BA, despite the fact the only Audi in my stable soon will be FWD CVT

[baldy]

k04 + custom 3" DP + Unitronic chipped = SMILES EAR TO EAR...

...details and pics to follow

...pricing edited on first page...