There IS a rear camber kit, but it's not necessary. Only our fronts are non-adjustable. I got mine 2 weeks ago for $550 shipped.
I guess I should rephrase my question, and my thought process on the matter. Does lowering 1 to 2 inches on the B8 cause Rear Camber to be out of factory range even with adjustment, and necessitate an aftermarket solution? 3 inches or more?
Thanks for the info. There are even installation instructions on the website too. However, it doesn't advise on the relative lengths that the two upper arms should be adjusted to get a given camber of the wheel.
What I mean to say is, since both upper arms, when lengthened, reduce negative camber. How would you know the best combination to get, say, a degree change in camber?
Thanks for the info. There are even installation instructions on the website too. However, it doesn't advise on the relative lengths that the two upper arms should be adjusted to get a given camber of the wheel.
What I mean to say is, since both upper arms, when lengthened, reduce negative camber. How would you know the best combination to get, say, a degree change in camber?
The arms are delivered in a length equal to the factory control arms. It's up to the alignment shop to work with you in determining an appropriate camber/caster/toe setting to achieve the desired handling, and tire wear you're looking for. There is no alignment spec that works perfectly for everyone, as everyone has slightly different requirements.
These arms allow you to dial in more camber and caster for optimal handling, or dial it out to save tire life.
While we unfortunately can't do a group buy on these, if you're interested in them, give us a call and we'll be happy to help out with competitive pricing.
I only got about 20k on my first tires and believe these would increase the life of the next set of tires by about 10k.
That is honestly not that bad if you don't drive like a grandmother with the factory Dunlops. The front camber is normally not touched because it stays in spec for a long time unless you hit a massive hole or have to have the engine removed since the normal front camber adjustment is sliding the subframe sideways to equalize the front camber.
I say buy some Michelins or Continentals and they should last a lot longer.
Ex-Audi Tech - Looking for sidework. Vag-Com equipped and PM questions.
2004 S4 6MT - Current Fun Car - Wavetrac LSD rear diff, JHM LWFW and St4 clutch, trio shifter, 4:1 center diff, LW crank pulley, USP metal slave cylinder with SS line, Stern race engine mounts, 034 Motorsports race trans mount, Apikol snub mount and race rear diff mount.
2000 A6 2.7T 6MT - Current Daily Driver
2004 S4 6MT Cabrio - Totaled
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