Project Papa Smurf Version 2.0 - Better, Bigger, Badder

[gearhead1186]

sorry to say but unless ur magneto's long lost cousin, there is no way you are fixing that.

[Angular]

Ouch! Man, that's a tough one. Wish I could tell you how to fix it. I agree the vice/90 deg crush thing would make it worse. Short of getting a new line, I might try pressurizing the line with air and heating it with a torch, but that's easier said than done, requires you have an air compressor, barb fittings, etc., and then the rubber hose crimp may fail if you heat it too much. Way too much of a risk to take. You obviously do not want that line failing after the car is all put back together.

[RONDAL]

so i just superheated it with a torch and shoved the corner in the vice. its not round, but it flows and doesn't leak now. i can hold it up to the tap and it will flow a decent amount through it. there's obviously a bit of restriction.

i know this supplies or take coolant from the turbo for cooling. is this going to be an issue?

i have some people saying on another forum it will be fine, that as long as its flowing and not leaking it will be ok.


i'm gonna ask the audience on this one.

[gearhead1186]

its the coolant feed. unless your on a serious deadline I would pay the small fee and get a new one. im pretty anal tho..

[RONDAL]

haha well i dont have a car and i cant do anything engine wise until that gets hooked up....

im pretty anal too, but if its gonna feed fine, then i'll run it

[Angular]

Just ask yourself this question: if that coolant line fails in two weeks or two months from now, how much work is it going to be to replace it?

[commonrail]

Can you post up a picture of what it looks like now that you've bent it back? You could try to plug the rubber end with a bolt and clamp, then pressurize the other side
with an airgun and a rubber tip to see if its not leaking (I doubt it). I wouldn't be worried about it unless there was obvious damage like a crack.

[wdbdy2000s4]

you can just replace it with a banjo and rubber line. Half of that line is rubber anyway.

If you don't trust me, take some consolation in the fact that the VAST return lines are all rubber.

[RONDAL]

after a night of heavy drinking and some contimplation im not gonna run that line. its not worth risking a turbo and pulling this all out again just to try and save a day.

i'm gonna take it to a local shop, get them to cut the hardline before the pinch and put on a rubber line so i can bend it into place how i need it.



other thought was to go to somewhere like mopac and buy some line and some fire sleeve. that way i can just bend it to where it needs to go.

i'm also debating something similiar on the passenger side oil return line. its a touch too short and isn't lining up right. i've tried clocking the center of the turbo, i've tried loosening the turbo to manifold bolts to get myself some play to hook it up, i've bent twisted and tried everything but its just a touch too short.






i'm thinking of having the hardline cut before the steel braided line and after the braided line before it goes into the oilpan. Put a flexible rubber hose on that can handle the hot oil and pressure.
I dont know exactly what I would need in the way of line and clamps. If people have ideas and where i should go for them let me know.

[RONDAL]

No one?

[coreyj]

hey please tell me you replaced the rear main seal on the crankshaft and not just the gasket for the cover...? i could not source just the rear main seal so i had to buy the whole flange new @$120 plus the $10 gasket.

[gearhead1186]

i'm also debating something similiar on the passenger side oil return line. its a touch too short and isn't lining up right. i've tried clocking the center of the turbo, i've tried loosening the turbo to manifold bolts to get myself some play to hook it up, i've bent twisted and tried everything but its just a touch too short.

try taking the turbo off the manifold, hook up the oil return line and then bolt the turbo back up. its easier to maneuver a big turbo than a small line. i remember mine being a slightly tough fit as well but I didnt need to reclock anything.

[coreyj]

another note ive ran bent coolant lines before and never had a problem as long as they dont leak also it doesnt slow down flow as much as you think, you would be perfectly fine running that line. as far as the oil return DO NOT USE RUBBER HOSE ON IT. if you are going to have to cut it then have an extension welded in it.

[RONDAL]

The problem with the oil return mike is I've loosens the turbo bolts as much as possible. I've loosens the return line into the turbo and into the pan. I'm worried when I go to tighten it's not gonna seal up right even if I get it the bolt to start threading.

[RONDAL]

Yes I replaced whole rear main haha

[RONDAL]

anyone have a pdf showing how to do the JHM shifter linkage upgrade install. their damn video on their website wont work for me

[gearhead1186]

The problem with the oil return mike is I've loosens the turbo bolts as much as possible. I've loosens the return line into the turbo and into the pan. I'm worried when I go to tighten it's not gonna seal up right even if I get it the bolt to start threading.

pull the whole turbo off and fully attach the oil return line. then mount the turbo again. see what happens.

[RONDAL]

got the oil line sorted, it was a 2 man job.

When installing the flywheel does anything special need to be going on with the starter. I know the teeth on the flywheel link in with the starter, but do i need to worry about positioning those now, or when I bolt the rest of the tranny up.

Just dont want to go too far and have to pop things back off again.


also anyone got torque specs on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts? .....and no i dont have a bentley.

[RONDAL]

Also in the mood of "name that part"




They came from JHM. They are either ER intercooler related or transmission related. I'm leaning towards intercoolers but i'd like confirmation if possible.

[lsc2g]

i think thats for your horn relocation andrew.. my RS4s had something similiar which i junked and just set the horns in a open area and was good to go

[cjernigan]

If you need a coolant pump delete kit (034) I have one in my toolbox and can UPS it to you Monday. PM if needed.

[Matt Danger]

Also in the mood of "name that part" They came from JHM. They are either ER intercooler related or transmission related. I'm leaning towards intercoolers but i'd like confirmation if possible.

AC canister and horn relocation brackets. Part of the ER kit. I didn't use the AC bracket, I used a large worn clamp wrapped around the chassis. Kinda hack, but does a better job of keeping the canister from rubbing the intercooler.

[Dutchsider]

Torque specs for the flywheel bolts

Book says tighten to 60Nm then turn another 180 degrees

[RONDAL]

i think thats for your horn relocation andrew.. my RS4s had something similiar which i junked and just set the horns in a open area and was good to go

ok cool.
who is this, i know you're on ED but cant tell username?

cjerinigan i'll shoot you a PM in a bit with address details. Wanna PM me price?

[RONDAL]

Torque specs for the flywheel bolts

Book says tighten to 60Nm then turn another 180 degrees

thank you sir.
while i'm doing that you wanna let me know the pressure plate? i think its 22Nm but just want to double check

[Dutchsider]

yeah, I was just going to post that as well. It is indeed 22Nm

[RONDAL]

spider hose broke when i was taking it off. more like i looked at it and it shattered.
This piece hooks up to the waste gate and actuator.
DOes it hook up to the spider hose as well? i cant tell.




I bought a new spider hose, looking to isntall it. See the two outlet ports on the back of the manifold. DOes it matter which one the spider hose attaches to? What attaches to the other port

[img]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5318690565_1347092165_b.jpg[img]


i just spent 45 minutes writing out what i did today only to have IE8 crash on me.......FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU bill gates.

[RONDAL]

Lets try this again.....

GOt oil line hooked up yay!
Had to take turbo off and get someone to hold it and guide it down while i used some pliers to manipulate the flange into position. THey need to put something in the kits for these the stock lines are so stressed when everything is in final position.



Bolted up the stock drivers side lower intercooler hose



CHecked fitment with everything else




Hooked up actuator and signal lines



Bolted up motor mount. Is there a torque spec on these things?





Since drivers side is all done i put the vitton ring in the inlet pipe and mounted it up




Next was time for the tranny. I dont want sloppy seconds anymore, or the other 5 gears for that matter so i picked up a delrin bushing and a solid weighted linkage. yay notchy gears




Undone off the tranny



Popped the boot off and the washer out



Chopped the bottom off the cup as per spec




Installed new bearing and washer using a socket to evenly bang them down into place




Greased up and reinstalled

[RONDAL]

Opened up the new dual mass flywheel



Installed using Vin Diesel's favorite weapon





New stage 4 endurance clutch



installed



New pressure plate





Popped out the old throw out bearing



Popped the new one in







And thats where we stand.
1 full day of work in the garage left before i gotta go back to my real desk job.
5 days until car has to vacate the garage. Crunch time.

Still to do:
injectors
plumb in all the boost stuff from turbos to the sensors and stuff
spider hose
fix coolant line monday morning
passenger side mounts and inlets
bolt tranny back up to engine
new coilpacks
spark plugs
serp belt
diverter valves
intercoolers
axles
fuel pump
boost gauge
uggghhhhh

[DiscoPotato]

I love this thread reminds me of the build im completeing now.. minus all the extreme goodies.

[DiscoPotato]

Just ask yourself this question: if that coolant line fails in two weeks or two months from now, how much work is it going to be to replace it?

yes.

[gearhead1186]

spider hose broke when i was taking it off. more like i looked at it and it shattered.
This piece hooks up to the waste gate and actuator.
DOes it hook up to the spider hose as well? i cant tell.




I bought a new spider hose, looking to isntall it. See the two outlet ports on the back of the manifold. DOes it matter which one the spider hose attaches to? What attaches to the other port

[img]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5318690565_1347092165_b.jpg[img]

The two larger ports on the back of the intake are for the spider hose and for the brake booster. Doesnt matter which goes where. As long as it all fits.

Here is a diagram of the N75.. green is compressor signal, purple is spider hose or open and gray is for the wastegates.

[RONDAL]

thanks mike
stupid question of the day....and this comes after i've spent the last 5.5 hours trying to get the tranny on and its no closer to being on tahn it was 5.25 hours ago.

Where is the delrin bushing located?




Is it the bushing on the arm opposite the shifter linkage? or is it somewhere else. I eyeballed the size of the bushing on the other arm but its too small for what I have.

[RONDAL]

or is this it?

[Matt Danger]

Where is the delrin bushing located?

It's on the shift linkage stabilizer shaft where it mounts to the trans.



Installed pic:

[Matt Danger]

or is this it?

That's for a DP support bracket.

[RONDAL]

It's on the shift linkage stabilizer shaft where it mounts to the trans.



Installed pic:

Thank you sir.


I was 99% sure that was it, but when you eyeball it, the delrin looks a lot bigger.

I was also 100% sure that other one was a DP support bracket but i figured it was worth asking rather than installing wrong.


if anyone has any magic tricks to bolting the tranny up im all ears.

[Matt Danger]

Put a socket on the front crank bolt and turn the engine over little by little until the input shaft lines up with the clutch splines. It may also help to straddle the trans and jiggle/rotate it back and forth. Took me a while to get it bolted up too.

[RONDAL]

no wonder i couldnt figure this out before....the delrin bushing i was sent is far too big for the arm i have. theres no way its fitting in there.

[RONDAL]

did i maybe get sent an "early" model one? are they slightly bigger than the late model which I have. i'm an 01.5