Here it is my first attempt at a DIY write up sorry if I miss any steps
INSTALLING B7 TEST PIPE
1. Remove front oxygen sensor (O2)
2. Remove the top 17mm nuts connecting the cat and the turbo
(I used a 17mm swivel head socket with a 3in. extension on a 3/8 drive ratchet)
3. Disconnect red connector for 2nd O2 sensor located on driver side fire wall next to the coolant tank and follow the harness toward the O2 sensor and cut the ziptie holding the harness
4. Lift the car up on a rack or on jack stands NOTE: if using jack-stands allow plenty of ground clearance to clear the down pipe and cat
5. Remove the bottom 17mm bolts connecting the cat and turbo
(sorry no pic of this but I used the same tools as I used to remove the top ones)
6. Remove the spring loaded bolt holding the down pipe, don't worry the spring will not fly off when unbolting this
7. Remove small cross member (10mm 12piont spline drive bolts) and loosen the exhaust collar nuts (13mm)
8. Slide collar back toward the muffler
9. Now slide the cat downward with the down-pipe and remove from vehicle (This can be a little tricky but it does come down this way you may need to twist and turn it out to come out but don't force it out it should come out fairly smoothly)
10. Now unbolt the cat from the down-pipe (3, 12mm nuts on 3, 13mm bolts) and install testpipe to down-pipe, don't forget to replace the gasket, nuts and bolts
11. and now just follow steps 9-1 to finish installation of testpipe. the finished product
Hint: when reinstalling front O2 sensor twist it 10 times counter clockwise so that when screwing it back in the wires don't get twisted (you'll see what I'm talking about)
Disclaimer:
My self as well as Creative Autoworks is not responsible for any damage or injuries caused by following this write up.
And there it is, hope this helps and I hope it was detailed enough. If anyone has any questions about this install feel free to call the shop and I'll walk you through any steps your having trouble with.
It depends if you can get the car high enough so that when you do step 9 the down pipe hangs pretty low you might need to unbolt it while its hanging like in the pic. and the bottom bolts (17mm) on the turbo side might be a little bit of a stretch if you have wide arms but still very doable. slide under the care from the front not from the side I think its easier that way, that way your facing toward the cat. when your unbolting everything
I was thinking of doing something like this, what i had in mind was just to remove the muffler portion but still keep the cat and resonator so basically purchase a sleeve from audi and then remove the last portion of pipe where the muffler is connected and replace it with this new sleeve and a custom straight pipe hence removing the muffler making the 3.2 engine puuuur.
Does anyone see anything wrong with this?? my fear is loosing back pressure and losing performance
Oh man, I'm in the process of doing this install right now. I'm using my 1.5ton Craftman low-profile jack, and the damn thing doesn't go high enough. I put the catalytic converter back onto the turbo and tried taking off the downpipe bolts, but they're a really tight fit so I gave up yesterday temporarily.
I'm really considering buying a bottle jack that will go higher, but I don't know if it will go high enough... and doing more bolts is going to be a huge pain.
I'm going to try to finish again today, and I'll have some additional tips to add as well.
one thing, i didn't put the exhaust spring retainer back on (pic 3) and now i have a skid control light on (and i can't turn traction control off). i'm going to throw the car back on the lift, but anyone else have this issue?
2007 A4 2.0TFSI Quattro S-Line Tip K&N|Tint|Plastidip Grille|painted reflectors|debadged
one thing, i didn't put the exhaust spring retainer back on (pic 3) and now i have a skid control light on (and i can't turn traction control off). i'm going to throw the car back on the lift, but anyone else have this issue?
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Originally Posted by bagher
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