Coming home feature on non-light sensor models

[DavidB8]

Nope still waiting on Matt.

[haroulli]

Are you still waiting on Matt :P

Not that you don't have better things to do!

[Daze513]

Wanna bring this back up! Any luck on you guys doing the retrofit. I'm really interested in doing this. Thanks guys!

[DavidB8]

I recently received a couple of VW sensors that I am going to test on my car. I don't have a lot of time but should only take a few minutes to swap out the VW and Audi sensors to see what happens.

[NPuter]

I recently received a couple of VW sensors that I am going to test on my car. I don't have a lot of time but should only take a few minutes to swap out the VW and Audi sensors to see what happens.

Awesome David, I am stil pretty motivated to do this retrofit. Would you be able to offer a kit? (Like you did for the advanced key retrofit.) Or would it just be easier to source the parts myself?

Thanks for your continued research

[DavidB8]

Well once I figure it out kits are always a possibility. Hasn't been a good week...

I got laid off this week and suffered some nerve damage to my face last week that is going to take a few months to heal. So Audi kits and research will be taking priority soon. I just have to get my car together belongings sold and get my ass back down south.. Going to be busy for a bit.

[NPuter]

Well once I figure it out kits are always a possibility. Hasn't been a good week...

I got laid off this week and suffered some nerve damage to my face last week that is going to take a few months to heal. So Audi kits and research will be taking priority soon. I just have to get my car together belongings sold and get my ass back down south.. Going to be busy for a bit.

Sorry about all that David Please do not feel pressured by all this car stuff - there are much more important things in life...

[haroulli]

Just updating this thread as per David's findings.

I tried the VW light sensor on my car and it just threw and error. So that's out for those that where thinking about trying to use the VW sensor.

I'm pretty sure the only way to do this is with the OEM sensor.

[DavidB8]

Yeah I even got an aftermarket kit for the VW's and some Audi's that is supposed to be able to take place of the sensor (yes I did look into other options) but as luck didn't have it, it's doesn't fit our plugs and is wired differently. There may be a solution down the road but our cars are still to unique in it's wiring for a mass produced solution.

[dracolnyte]

okay so the next step would be, how much is the OEM light sensor and what is the part number?

edit:
Rain Sensor: 8K0 955 559
Adhesive kit: 4E0 955 609
Plug: 1C0 973 119 B
Wires: 1K0 973 333 x2
Switch: 8K0 941 531 (AL, AS,??)

will this work? if only they ship to NA
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/250956695430?...84.m1423.l2649

[Daze513]

There has to be a way we can get something to work. Im really interested in this one.

[haroulli]

edit:
Rain Sensor: 8K0 955 559
Adhesive kit: 4E0 955 609
Plug: 1C0 973 119 B
Wires: 1K0 973 333 x2
Switch: 8K0 941 531 (AL, AS,??)

will this work? if only they ship to NA
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/250956695430?...84.m1423.l2649

Its the right part number, so yeah it will fit. You can get the wiring from Kufatec, it might be easier then trying to source it from Audi.

There has to be a way we can get something to work. Im really interested in this one.

With this I think it comes down to actually experimenting and doing the research. I think if Kufatec is putting out a wiring you can do it.

[TexasEric]

With this I think it comes down to actually experimenting and doing the research.

Anyone know how to interpret the Audi wiring diagrams?

Pin 1 - Goes to "109" ??
Pin 2 - Goes to "355" ??
Pin 3 - Goes to "Connection 11 in the Main Wiring Harness" or maybe Pin 2 of 16 in the Vehicle Electrical System Control Module.

I can read it, I just can't figure out what it means.

[TR464]

Anyone know how to interpret the Audi wiring diagrams?

Pin 1 - Goes to "109" ??
Pin 2 - Goes to "355" ??
Pin 3 - Goes to "Connection 11 in the Main Wiring Harness" or maybe Pin 2 of 16 in the Vehicle Electrical System Control Module.

I can read it, I just can't figure out what it means.

The line in the diagram had to be virtually splitted to avoid junction; search for the same number tag within the wiring diagram and you'll see where the line continues.

[Peeet]

Anyone know how to interpret the Audi wiring diagrams?

Pin 1 - Goes to "109" ??
Pin 2 - Goes to "355" ??
Pin 3 - Goes to "Connection 11 in the Main Wiring Harness" or maybe Pin 2 of 16 in the Vehicle Electrical System Control Module.

I can read it, I just can't figure out what it means.

PIN 1 goes to, fuse carrier ST2, fuse number 12
PIN 2 goes to, earth
PIN 3 goes to T16b PIN 2 (J519)


T16b you can find that connector under your steeringwheel, the brown connnector.



ST2, left hand drive car


Peet

[TexasEric]

PIN 1 goes to, fuse carrier ST2, fuse number 12
PIN 2 goes to, earth
PIN 3 goes to T16b PIN 2 (J519)

Peet

OK, I am thoroughly impressed ... Those two numbers (109 and 355) in my previous post just connect to the long non-descript line at the bottom of the page; 355 is on another page. So, it makes sense that 355 is earth (ground). But how did you better track down where pins 1 and 3 actually connect to??

[haroulli]

OK, I am thoroughly impressed ... Those two numbers (109 and 355) in my previous post just connect to the long non-descript line at the bottom of the page; 355 is on another page. So, it makes sense that 355 is earth (ground). But how did you better track down where pins 1 and 3 actually connect to??

This is a translated version of the German Kufatec Wiring loom for Rain, Auto Dim and Light Assist guide. If anyone has an adjustments they want to make let me know.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/926407/37140Guide1.pdf

[franktdi]

im not sure if u got got the ch/lh to work yet, i just came across your thread. i have a 2012 golf and i was able to get the ch to work without the euro switch. email me if i can be of any help.

[dracolnyte]

im not sure if u got got the ch/lh to work yet, i just came across your thread. i have a 2012 golf and i was able to get the ch to work without the euro switch. email me if i can be of any help.

we know that in VW cars, a simple tick of a box in VAG can activate CH/LH function in cars without auto switch by switching to low beams.
unless you discover something else, please share. thanks

[haroulli]

I think we decided that the rain sensor is necessary since it has the light sensor in it. Unfortunately I have not been able to get this working and my VCDS cable is on the fritz. I have one on order.

You can follow my progress or add any comments that may help here http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...g-VAG-COM-Help!

[TexasEric]

This morning I stopped by a local auto glass shop to get their thoughts on taking the basic mirror-mount off the windshield. The guy said he could take it off in 5 minutes with a 20% chance of cracking the windshield, but that really depends on how tight it is stuck to the glass. He said he would be able to tell pretty quickly if it was doable and could stop if it looked to difficult, so I let him try. First thing he did was to grab the grey post sticking from the class and twist 90 degrees real hard. The whole mirror and post came off with his hand leaving only a metal nub. He then took a pair of pliers and a portable blow-torch to the nub left on windshield. I kind of freaked out about the blow torch. He said the heat from the blow torch was not going to be a problem as long as he kept it moving. He wiggled the metal nub and said it was pretty tight, but he felt good he could do it. 30 seconds later, the metal nub was off. He quickly took a flat razor and scraped off the remaining glue. The nub and glass were very hot. So... long story short (too late)... I have a perfect windshield with no rear-view mirror attached. If anyone is in the Dallas area and wants to give this a try, contact Adren at Titan Auto Glass. Great guy and great service.

[haroulli]

This morning I stopped by a local auto glass shop to get their thoughts on taking the basic mirror-mount off the windshield. The guy said he could take it off in 5 minutes with a 20% chance of cracking the windshield, but that really depends on how tight it is stuck to the glass. He said he would be able to tell pretty quickly if it was doable and could stop if it looked to difficult, so I let him try. First thing he did was to grab the grey post sticking from the class and twist 90 degrees real hard. The whole mirror and post came off with his hand leaving only a metal nub. He then took a pair of pliers and a portable blow-torch to the nub left on windshield. I kind of freaked out about the blow torch. He said the heat from the blow torch was not going to be a problem as long as he kept it moving. He wiggled the metal nub and said it was pretty tight, but he felt good he could do it. 30 seconds later, the metal nub was off. He quickly took a flat razor and scraped off the remaining glue. The nub and glass were very hot. So... long story short (too late)... I have a perfect windshield with no rear-view mirror attached. If anyone is in the Dallas area and wants to give this a try, contact Adren at Titan Auto Glass. Great guy and great service.

LOL thats a story! How do you intend to mount the new mirror? If so where you going to get the mount from?

[TexasEric]

LOL thats a story! How do you intend to mount the new mirror? If so where you going to get the mount from?

I have already ordered a bunch of new parts from genuineaudiparts.com including the mount (701845543) and the adhesive (D000703A1). Only down-side is that I will be without a rear-view mirror for a week.

[haroulli]

Eric, what about the Rain/Light sensor, you know thats required to get the CH/LH functioning right? I guess thats phase 2 of your project. I'm doing it the other way around.

[TexasEric]

Eric, what about the Rain/Light sensor, you know thats required to get the CH/LH functioning right? I guess thats phase 2 of your project. I'm doing it the other way around.

You are correct... First, I will get the proper mirror installed and run the wires. In the future, I will change my headlight switch and add the sensor. The sensor is very expensive so I want to spread this out over time. When I am done with this first step, I only want to have to mess with a few wires in the switch and pop in the sensor when the time comes.

I will post some pictures and DIY tips when I get started. The parts are supposed to arrive some time this week. My first question is about how the windshield will look from the outside. I am estimating that the black dot on the windshield will be covered by the mirror, but I am also thinking I will get a small bottle of black model paint and paint the glass underneath the new mirror parts.

[haroulli]

Yeah there is actually a black cover that goes on the inside of the mirror wire channel. You will also need the clip that will hold the sensor in place. You can find the sensor on ebay.de

[DavidB8]

yeah the cover is two parts, one rests against the glass and the wires run through it the one you see from inside the car snaps over it to cover them.

[haroulli]

I got mine from ECS but if you need the Part numbers let me know and I can see if I have the packaging.

David, I hope your well did you relocate ok?

[TexasEric]

I have already ordered a bunch of new parts from genuineaudiparts.com including the mount (701845543) and the adhesive (D000703A1). Only down-side is that I will be without a rear-view mirror for a week.

FAIL... Just got my parts in and these are not correct... The mount and adhesive I mentioned above are the mount and adhesive for the plain mirror--yes, the same ones I had a glass-guy remove from my windshield. I may be screwed here because the mount that I need does not have a part number and is marked in ETKA as "Retaining plate not a spare part". If anyone is looking at ETKA, check illustration 845-00. Anyone else know where to get a part number? And then, which adhesive? My adhesive is marked as "glass-metal" and I am betting that the retaining plate I need is plastic. UGH!!!

[TexasEric]

Wires: 1K0 973 333 x2

Careful, people.... This part number is not for wires, but for a connector that looks like the female-end to the 1C0973119B plug. If we are truly looking for wires, the correct part is: 000979009E.

[dracolnyte]

any updates on this? lets say if i buy the light sensor, the harnesses and all the wires, where do i plug them in? and is it going to be plug and play?

[TexasEric]

any updates on this? lets say if i buy the light sensor, the harnesses and all the wires, where do i plug them in? and is it going to be plug and play?

I am still trying to source the proper windshield mount.

The proper wiring will take you across the top of the windshield, down the driver's A pillar and to the fuse box. If you only want the power mirror (and not the sensor), you can tap the front dome light. As for the sensor, from what I am seeing, it does not look like that it can be installed in the non-sensor glass and look OEM (even with the proper mount). I have not yet confirmed it, but I believe that if we were to put the sensor up in the OEM location, it will sit directly under the quarter-sized black dot inside the basic windshield glass. That dot pretty much makes the sensor useless in that location. I hope to know more shortly.

[dracolnyte]

I am still trying to source the proper windshield mount.

The proper wiring will take you across the top of the windshield, down the driver's A pillar and to the fuse box. If you only want the power mirror (and not the sensor), you can tap the front dome light. As for the sensor, from what I am seeing, it does not look like that it can be installed in the non-sensor glass and look OEM (even with the proper mount). I have not yet confirmed it, but I believe that if we were to put the sensor up in the OEM location, it will sit directly under the quarter-sized black dot inside the basic windshield glass. That dot pretty much makes the sensor useless in that location. I hope to know more shortly.

im just doing it purely for the coming home/leaving home functions, so essentially what youre saying is, i can store the light sensor in the fuse box, leave it dangling there and hook it up somewhere in the fuse to get it working?

[TexasEric]

im just doing it purely for the coming home/leaving home functions, so essentially what youre saying is, i can store the light sensor in the fuse box, leave it dangling there and hook it up somewhere in the fuse to get it working?

Sorry, I may have been confusing. The sensor wires connect to the fuse box AND the headlight switch (yeah, I forgot to mention that one). The sensor itself has to be attached to the windshield somewhere without it being blocked by anything.

[dracolnyte]

Sorry, I may have been confusing. The sensor wires connect to the fuse box AND the headlight switch (yeah, I forgot to mention that one). The sensor itself has to be attached to the windshield somewhere without it being blocked by anything.

thanks you just saved me a ton of research. i am not looking for functioning auto lights, i just want the CH/LH come on every time i put the light switch into "auto". Since I already have the light switch, all i need now is the light sensor and wires to hook them up to the fuse box and headlight switch, am i correct?

[dracolnyte]

i just went through all the threads again including haroulli's and i think i might have came up with an idea for my solution. the light sensor consist of three connections
PIN 1 goes to, fuse carrier ST2, fuse number 12 (power)
PIN 2 goes to, earth (ground)
PIN 3 goes to T16b PIN 2 (J519) (communication)
so is the T16b the module that the light sensor feeds its signals to? and since it only differentiates between day or night = on or off = 1 or 0 = power or ground, couldnt i just ground T16b pin 2, put my car on auto and test if its either always xenon on or always off? if it was always off then I would just need to directly feed ST2, fuse 12 to T16b for my constant "night" mode. but not sure if fuse 12 might provide too much voltage, so I will have to either hook it up to a resistor or get the actual light sensor to get the correct voltages going.

[Calister]

i just went through all the threads again including haroulli's and i think i might have came up with an idea for my solution. the light sensor consist of three connections
PIN 1 goes to, fuse carrier ST2, fuse number 12 (power)
PIN 2 goes to, earth (ground)
PIN 3 goes to T16b PIN 2 (J519) (communication)
so is the T16b the module that the light sensor feeds its signals to? and since it only differentiates between day or night = on or off = 1 or 0 = power or ground, couldnt i just ground T16b pin 2, put my car on auto and test if its either always xenon on or always off? if it was always off then I would just need to directly feed ST2, fuse 12 to T16b for my constant "night" mode. but not sure if fuse 12 might provide too much voltage, so I will have to either hook it up to a resistor or get the actual light sensor to get the correct voltages going.

Hi, Grounding or pulling T16b Pin 2 up to 12V will not work. This connection is the car network signal it is not a simple on/off signal. The car network signal is used by the calculator to "communicate" with car's elements. The rain/light sensor is one of them and it includes a processor allowing it to send information to the calculator such as OK status at power up, rain and light levels.
The only way to have CH/LH and/or autolight and/or autowipe working is to connect a rain/light sensor to this T16b Pin2. If the sensor is stored in the fuse box it'll consider it's night and no rain all the time. So your head lights will remain on all the time if the switch is on Auto and your wipers will not work in cadenced mode (wipers cadence being set by rain level). However the wipers will work in permament modes only.
Hope that helps.

[dracolnyte]

Hi, Grounding or pulling T16b Pin 2 up to 12V will not work. This connection is the car network signal it is not a simple on/off signal. The car network signal is used by the calculator to "communicate" with car's elements. The rain/light sensor is one of them and it includes a processor allowing it to send information to the calculator such as OK status at power up, rain and light levels.
The only way to have CH/LH and/or autolight and/or autowipe working is to connect a rain/light sensor to this T16b Pin2. If the sensor is stored in the fuse box it'll consider it's night and no rain all the time. So your head lights will remain on all the time if the switch is on Auto and your wipers will not work in cadenced mode (wipers cadence being set by rain level). However the wipers will work in permament modes only.
Hope that helps.

yes this helps! thanks for confirming.

[haroulli]

I'm still waiting on my VCDS cable so I've not made any more progress but yes 16b pin2 is for communication etc.

[dracolnyte]

I'm still waiting on my VCDS cable so I've not made any more progress but yes 16b pin2 is for communication etc.

what a coincidence, my vcds cable just bricked, where did you purchased yours?