B8 Aftermarket Sound System Pictures

[Point.Blank]

I can't say for sure on the non-B&O system.....on the B&O sub the colours are Yellow/white (+) and Blue/Yellow (-). It won't really matter all that much anyway because you will more than likely be playing with phase of the sub anyway. My sub sounds much better out of phase but it could be entirely different in the sedan location firing through the seats etc.

I didn't cut the plug off, just spliced and soldered on wire extensions.

I wanted to just cut the plug off and keep it around if I ever needed it again. Then just stick them right into the LC2i but I didnt know if it mattered which wire is left/right. Is this not a good idea? I dont think I quite get what you mean by phase.

Thanks for the help Cory and Jbradle

[cory_can]

I wanted to just cut the plug off and keep it around if I ever needed it again. Then just stick them right into the LC2i but I didnt know if it mattered which wire is left/right. Is this not a good idea? I dont think I quite get what you mean by phase.

Thanks for the help Cory and Jbradle

If you don't cut it off you'll always know where it is.....in the car on the end of the wire :) You'll probably need to extend the wires from the sub to wherever you locate your LOC so I would just splice off the sub wire a couple inches short of the plug and leave the plug on the end.

Setting subs out of phase (reversing +/-) isn't uncommon.....you'll notice that many home theater subs have phase switches. It depends on various things in your environment on (distance from front stage, direction of firing, type of enclosure, configuration of subs in an enclosure etc., size of vehicle). The one that is correct (in phase, out-of-phase) is the one that sounds best.....bass hits when it's suppose to at the correct peak. In the Avant where I have my sub out-of-phase is what works ...Stubek found the same thing in his Avant.

[jbradle7]

On the non-B&O, the sub wires are white/yellow (+) and brown/yellow (-); I've found for my application leaving them in-phase sounds best... I've tried reversing the polarity for grins but it produced an obvious lack of bass.

There is enough room under the rear deck panel (inside the cabin) you could easily mount that LOC near the factory sub wires.

[Point.Blank]

If you don't cut it off you'll always know where it is.....in the car on the end of the wire :) You'll probably need to extend the wires from the sub to wherever you locate your LOC so I would just splice off the sub wire a couple inches short of the plug and leave the plug on the end.

Setting subs out of phase (reversing +/-) isn't uncommon.....you'll notice that many home theater subs have phase switches. It depends on various things in your environment on (distance from front stage, direction of firing, type of enclosure, configuration of subs in an enclosure etc., size of vehicle). The one that is correct (in phase, out-of-phase) is the one that sounds best.....bass hits when it's suppose to at the correct peak. In the Avant where I have my sub out-of-phase is what works ...Stubek found the same thing in his Avant.

I thought you were talking about how you wire the sub to the amp which I was doing parallel to reach 1ohms. And There is enough room in the rear deck to place my LC2i on the right side hidden. Its where the B&O back right speaker would go but we dont have anything there. Seemed like a great spot imo.

[Point.Blank]

On the non-B&O, the sub wires are white/yellow (+) and brown/yellow (-); I've found for my application leaving them in-phase sounds best... I've tried reversing the polarity for grins but it produced an obvious lack of bass.

There is enough room under the rear deck panel (inside the cabin) you could easily mount that LOC near the factory sub wires.

You just beat me to it :P. Thanks jbradle

[Point.Blank]

Did you all use the factory battery terminals? Think I might lay some wire tomorrow along with laying a new 1/0ga from battery (-) to ground. I have ring terminals for my 1/0ga wire will that work out fine? Is there a certain process to working on the battery of these b8 a4's? Cause they have sensors for when you tamper with them so im just making sure. Normally just disconnect the ground but you tell me. Again this is for non-B&O.

[jbradle7]

Aside from having the proper ring terminals for my cables, no special provisions were needed to hook up my power/GND cables. I used 4awg for my sub amp and 10awg for my processor. The 4awg is connected to the drivers side of the battery terminal and the 10awg is connceted at the front... once you remove the plastic covers you'll see. 1/0 might be tight in there but I think you can make it fit. There is a distribution block on the + terminal you might be able to use, if you can find the proper fusible links. I connected my 4awg GND cable to the same stud in the floor that the battery GND is connected to on the passenger side.

I've had no issues resulting from disconcerting the battery negative; no CEL or weird CAN bus induced charging errors.

[Point.Blank]

Think I might lay the wiring tomorrow just to get ready. Do you think ill be fine cutting the factory sub wires and just sticking those into the LC2i?

[Resophy]

I want to wire in subwoofers and amplifier(s), and within the next year replace all of the speakers with new high quality ones and add a couple of amplifiers for the speakers. I went to a local car audio store that specializes in high-end vehicles and they recommend that I purchase a mObridge DA1000. This unit costs approximately $1000 and it will give me the necessary inputs I require. I have a 2009 Audi A4 with Bang & Olufsen sound, and I have MMI 2G.

What difference does it make whether you have stock sound or Bang & Olufsen when it comes to aftermarket audio?

Here is a link:
http://www.mobridge.us/compatibility...13116/29/13169


Thanks!

Cory

[cory_can]

I want to wire in subwoofers and amplifier(s), and within the next year replace all of the speakers with new high quality ones and add a couple of amplifiers for the speakers. I went to a local car audio store that specializes in high-end vehicles and they recommend that I purchase a mObridge DA1000. This unit costs approximately $1000 and it will give me the necessary inputs I require. I have a 2009 Audi A4 with Bang & Olufsen sound, and I have MMI 2G.

What difference does it make whether you have stock sound or Bang & Olufsen when it comes to aftermarket audio?

Here is a link:
http://www.mobridge.us/compatibility...13116/29/13169


Thanks!

Cory

The MObridge is a preamp. It effectively replaces your B&O amp on the MOST bus and gives you a digital output to feed a processor. I've done a lot of research in this area and it's what I would use to feed a BitOne if I ever decide to go to the next level. Right now I'm pretty happy with the factory amp and all my speakers replaced with Hertz Mille's (+sub). I'm just not sure at this point if I want to make the significant next investment to go to the next step, with an unknown improvement. It will be better but will it be ~4-5K+ better? Hard to say. Btw, nice 'handle' :)

[Resophy]

The MObridge is a preamp. It effectively replaces your B&O amp on the MOST bus and gives you a digital output to feed a processor. I've done a lot of research in this area and it's what I would use to feed a BitOne if I ever decide to go to the next level. Right now I'm pretty happy with the factory amp and all my speakers replaced with Hertz Mille's (+sub). I'm just not sure at this point if I want to make the significant next investment to go to the next step, with an unknown improvement. It will be better but will it be ~4-5K+ better? Hard to say. Btw, nice 'handle' :)

Oh that makes a lot of sense, thank you. If I wanted to set up a 1000 watt amp for my subs and use one or two 10" subs is there any other way to do it without using this mObridge **** possibly a more cost effective solution?

[cory_can]

Oh that makes a lot of sense, thank you. If I wanted to set up a 1000 watt amp for my subs and use one or two 10" subs is there any other way to do it without using this mObridge **** possibly a more cost effective solution?

Yes, If you intend on just adding subs and using the factory amp to run your existing speakers (or upgraded) you can use a line output converter (LOC). The one I use and have recommended to others in this thread is an Audiocontrol LC2i. There are also many inexpensive LOCs to choose from but not many accept high input power.

You also don't need to use a MObridge on a B&O system if you intend on building a full system. You can use a line converter to tap off the existing amp outputs to sum a full range signal. The BitOnE is also a LOC in addition to a processor. The JBL MS-8 is another option. The advantage of the Mobrige is cleanliness/ease of install and staying digital.

[Point.Blank]

Do you think ill be fine cutting the factory sub wires and just sticking those into the LC2i?

Does anyone have pictures of upgrading the Big 3? The inside of the hood is quite confusing with the battery being in the trunk. By Big 3 I mean upgrading the power wire to 1/0ga under the hood. There is 3 lines you have to run and the battery(-) to ground is the easiest cause I can just do that in the spare wheel well. The other 2 steps are what im concerned about.

[cory_can]

Does anyone have pictures of upgrading the Big 3? The inside of the hood is quite confusing with the battery being in the trunk. By Big 3 I mean upgrading the power wire to 1/0ga under the hood. There is 3 lines you have to run and the battery(-) to ground is the easiest cause I can just do that in the spare wheel well. The other 2 steps are what im concerned about.

I don't have much advice except that I believe the entire thing is unnecessary. You aren't upgrading the alternator so why bother with a serious PITA that will more likely do more harm than good.

[Point.Blank]

I don't have much advice except that I believe the entire thing is unnecessary. You aren't upgrading the alternator so why bother with a serious PITA that will more likely do more harm than good.

The idea is to create more voltage for your system with an easy upgrade. But if its not going to be "easy" then I might have to settle with only creating a stronger ground. So the alternator is not easy to add a line to it?

[cory_can]

The idea is to create more voltage for your system with an easy upgrade. But if its not going to be "easy" then I might have to settle with only creating a stronger ground. So the alternator is not easy to add a line to it?

No, the upgrade is for current capacity, not for more voltage.

[#1steelerfan]

Some nice setups.. Subscribed...

[Point.Blank]

Alright got a few questions. Im pretty sure I know the answer im just looking for confirmation/advice.

When attaching the 1/0ga wire/ring terminal to the batter where is the best spot? I was thinking the fastening piece in between the factory battery terminal. I put a red ring terminal in the area I am talking about but in between the bolt or factory battery terminal. Then bending the ring terminals like I did should allow the wire to leave without getting in the way.







Is it ok to drill 2 small holes in this ground to fasten the inline fuse holder or should I use adhesive? I took a picture of where I want to place it to secure.





And lastly would I be fine with cutting the factory sub wire and sticking that directly into the LC2i?

[alry23]

hey guys , so im kind of lost maybe you guys can help me out, ive read a lot of the pages but still not quite sure what to do.... i have a 2011 b8 , it is basic sound system, i just want to add an amp and sub instead of having the stock one. my question here is which wire do i tap into for remote? or which wires can i use off the stock amp? i already ran my power wire for the amp and the ground wire so i just nee to finish getting all the wires for the amp... any help would be ery very appreciated !!! thanks again in advanced!!!!
-alex

[jbradle7]

Yep, that is pretty much exactly where I connected my power cable... even bent the terminal in a similar fashion. I would not drill any unnecessary holes in your car; I just used a couple zip-ties to secure the fuse holder to the existing cable which is secured to the car by a clip (just aft of where your fuse holder is pictured above).

You can cut off the factory sub connector and then connect your sub +/- leads directly to your LOC or, as Cory suggested, splice new leads onto the sub wires (leaving your factory connector intact) and then connecting to your LOC.

[jbradle7]

hey guys , so im kind of lost maybe you guys can help me out, ive read a lot of the pages but still not quite sure what to do.... i have a 2011 b8 , it is basic sound system, i just want to add an amp and sub instead of having the stock one. my question here is which wire do i tap into for remote? or which wires can i use off the stock amp? i already ran my power wire for the amp and the ground wire so i just nee to finish getting all the wires for the amp... any help would be ery very appreciated !!! thanks again in advanced!!!!
-alex

I was never able to find a suitable wire off the factory amp that could be used as a remote turn on lead; I'd check the fuses on the passenger side of the trunk to see if any of them is suitable. I used the garage door opener fuse in the front drivers side dash to supply my remote turn on... but this is mainly because I already had my sub installed and didn't want to remove it to check the fuse block in the trunk. BOL

[Point.Blank]

hey guys , so im kind of lost maybe you guys can help me out, ive read a lot of the pages but still not quite sure what to do.... i have a 2011 b8 , it is basic sound system, i just want to add an amp and sub instead of having the stock one. my question here is which wire do i tap into for remote? or which wires can i use off the stock amp? i already ran my power wire for the amp and the ground wire so i just nee to finish getting all the wires for the amp... any help would be ery very appreciated !!! thanks again in advanced!!!!
-alex

you have to lines for speaker (R/L) that you hook to your sub. there is 2 other connections for RCA's that you run to a line output converter. I recommend getting the AudioControl LC2i it seems like the best option to me after some research. This line out converter you can connect directly from the factory sub wires. You can reach the wire from under the back hatch and disconnect it. You might need to look into how you should wire your sub because there is a couple different options depending on your amp.

edit: you can also hook up amp gain and the LC2i has an internal remote control on.

[Point.Blank]

Yep, that is pretty much exactly where I connected my power cable... even bent the terminal in a similar fashion.

Did you put yours between the battery terminal or between the nut?

[jbradle7]

On the outside, between the nut and terminal clamp.

[Point.Blank]

Yo wheres quality_sound been? I wanted to hear what he has to say seems like a guru with this A4 and audio.

[Point.Blank]

Quick question hopefully I can get a quick answer while im working on it...

How did you remove the nuts on the battery terminals? I can unscrew them and take the battery terminal fitting off but I cant take the nut off to place my 1/0ga ring terminals in. I really didnt want to go with spade terminals but it feels like if I force it more I might brake the screw or nut. What did you guys do?

[pf_lewis]

On the non-B&O, the sub wires are white/yellow (+) and brown/yellow (-); I've found for my application leaving them in-phase sounds best... I've tried reversing the polarity for grins but it produced an obvious lack of bass.

There is enough room under the rear deck panel (inside the cabin) you could easily mount that LOC near the factory sub wires.

Thank you for clarifying! That was my next question.

I will be doing the install shortly, putting in an ole JL 250/1 and JL 10w3 into the rear of my '10 non-B&O. Will post pics.

I'm slightly stoked that I don't have to splice into a 12V for the remote on; seeing as my amp has a signal sensing on switch Also, no LOC needed d/t my JL amp having the converter inside of it!! uber stoked on that.

[Point.Blank]

Thank you for clarifying! That was my next question.

I will be doing the install shortly, putting in an ole JL 250/1 and JL 10w3 into the rear of my '10 non-B&O. Will post pics.

I'm slightly stoked that I don't have to splice into a 12V for the remote on; seeing as my amp has a signal sensing on switch Also, no LOC needed d/t my JL amp having the converter inside of it!! uber stoked on that.

Probably why you see so many JL in Audi's...

[Point.Blank]

Small update after laying some wire yesterday. Got the positive power wire down for the amp with the fuse holder. There is no fuse in yet so dont freak out about grounding my car. I found the best place to add the ring terminal is on top of the factory power line to the hood. I ordered 5 ft of red and 5ft of black 1/0 knu fleks boy was I cutting it close. Took every inch but looks like its going to be perfect length once I mount the amp in the factory location.

Still not sure how Im going to run a new ground from the negative battery. The nut to loosen up the battery terminal doesn't seem to come off all the way. How do you get a 1/0ga ring terminal onto the (-) battery?

[jbradle7]

Still not sure how Im going to run a new ground from the negative battery. The nut to loosen up the battery terminal doesn't seem to come off all the way. How do you get a 1/0ga ring terminal onto the (-) battery?

If I recall correctly, the stud may have been peened to keep the nut from coming off all the way... I think I just kept crankin and it came off fine without any thread damage.

I'm not an expert so not sure if it matters, but I just connected my amp GND to the battery GND stud in the floor. The acorn nut comes off very easily and there is plenty of thread there to add your ring terminal.

[Point.Blank]

If I recall correctly, the stud may have been peened to keep the nut from coming off all the way... I think I just kept crankin and it came off fine without any thread damage.

I'm not an expert so not sure if it matters, but I just connected my amp GND to the battery GND stud in the floor. The acorn nut comes off very easily and there is plenty of thread there to add your ring terminal.

I wasnt talking about the grounding connection but that does bring up a question I thought of. I wanted to use the original ground that you can see in the first picture to the right. But I wasnt to sure about the holding piece... It looks plastic and every ground I've done I sand the paint down to make sure I get the best connection.

I guess I'll try and force the nut off if you say its possible. I hate messing with the ground on batteries it scares the living shit out of me every time you connect it and it sparks.

[cory_can]

Thank you for clarifying! That was my next question.

I will be doing the install shortly, putting in an ole JL 250/1 and JL 10w3 into the rear of my '10 non-B&O. Will post pics.

I'm slightly stoked that I don't have to splice into a 12V for the remote on; seeing as my amp has a signal sensing on switch Also, no LOC needed d/t my JL amp having the converter inside of it!! uber stoked on that.

Probably why you see so many JL in Audi's...

My JL amp has a "built-in" LOC as well but it wouldn't cope with the input voltage range of the B&O output. The Audiocontrol LOC's are rated for ~400W inputs.

[Point.Blank]

My JL amp has a "built-in" LOC as well but it wouldn't cope with the input voltage range of the B&O output. The Audiocontrol LOC's are rated for ~400W inputs.

Does the 400w inputs have anything to do with how much watts your aftermarket amp is?

[cory_can]

Does the 400w inputs have anything to do with how much watts your aftermarket amp is?

No, input to the LOC from factory amp, not output to amp/processor.

[pf_lewis]

My JL amp has a "built-in" LOC as well but it wouldn't cope with the input voltage range of the B&O output. The Audiocontrol LOC's are rated for ~400W inputs.

Hmmm, did you play with the input sensitivity and hi/low input range??

[cory_can]

Hmmm, did you play with the input sensitivity and hi/low input range??

Yes, absolutely. The JL you have (250/1) only has a 10V input limit on the hi-level inputs.

[Point.Blank]

No, input to the LOC from factory amp, not output to amp/processor.

Gotcha, was a little confused about what that stood for.

Cory did you touch your ground on the battery? Like did you add any ring terminals to the (-) on the battery?

[cory_can]

Gotcha, was a little confused about what that stood for.

Cory did you touch your ground on the battery? Like did you add any ring terminals to the (-) on the battery?

I used a factory chassis ground lug behind the rear passenger side panel. It was close to my amp mounting location.

[Point.Blank]

I used a factory chassis ground lug behind the rear passenger side panel. It was close to my amp mounting location.

I see. Im trying upgrade the battery ground with a 1/0ga wire because I am grounding a 1/0ga wire from my amp. I guess Im going to have to try and force that nut off wish me luck.

[Point.Blank]

ow my hands hurt... got that nut off but it took a lot of force. Then putting it back on was almost just as hard... the square on the back eventually carved and I couldnt tighten the (-) as much as I would like. I tried shaking on it and pulling it up and it didnt budge but it just doesnt seem tight enough for me. Think I might have to take the nut and bolt out... with allot of force... and replace it with a new one I can properly use. What do you think?