Intake looks good. How much flat do you have after the MAF before the bend going into the compressor housing? A minimum of around 4inches is ideal to allow for laminar MAF reading.
If you need a PS pump I have a used one. In fact, I have a whole car I'm parting out. Just let me know.
Wow very nice! Glad you gave that PS pump the business :)
We'll see if it works. But yeah..... I gave it the biz. :) I don't like losing.
Originally Posted by dougyfresh
Intake looks good. How much flat do you have after the MAF before the bend going into the compressor housing? A minimum of around 4inches is ideal to allow for laminar MAF reading.
If you need a PS pump I have a used one. In fact, I have a whole car I'm parting out. Just let me know.
I haven't measured how much there is, but I think it's around 5-6" ....but I plan on trimming about 1/2" off that so I can slide the filter back just a touch. I'll keep you posted on the P/S pump. I'm 90% that my "fix" is going to work just fine.
I haven't measured how much there is, but I think it's around 5-6" ....but I plan on trimming about 1/2" off that so I can slide the filter back just a touch. I'll keep you posted on the P/S pump. I'm 90% that my "fix" is going to work just fine.
Before you go cutting anything leave it alone and check MAF readings at idle and part throttle. If they are jumping around then you are seeing effects from the bend and compressor inlet. I had those problems before I rebuilt my TIP. MAF sensors are sensitive.
I have an entire B6 1.8T being sent to me this week so if you need anything email me and I'll take care of you.
Today I spent most of the night tidying up hoses/lines/wires and hooking up the rest of the wiring harness. I also cleaned up the intake pipe a bit to make sure there were no burrs or anything that could possibly come loose and go through the turbo. I picked up that last 2 fittings I needed to finish up the PCV system as well.
I had to tighten up the coolant return line on the turbo.....which evidently is a complete bitch to get at. I ended up having to remove the compressor housing in order to tighten it. I would have had it in there and tight before, except I didn't know exactly where the turbo had to be clocked and if you turn the housing too much one way or another, it interferes with the coolant hose end.
I installed my testpipe, but ran into a bit of a snag when I found out there wasn't enough clearance to get the bolt into the hole in the flange. I tried cutting some length off the treads but that didn't work. I tried grinding a little material off the diameter of the head.......that didn't work. Finally i got out a ball-peen hammer and have it a smack where the interference was. Problem solved! I am not much of a praying man.......but I'm praying that my downpipe fits onto the test pipe correctly.
Tomorrow I should be able to have everything back together and running!!
Chris,...just noticed your braided coolant line is sitting right on top of your compressor housing. You should shield the braided line with heat proof cloth so the braided line doesn't eat through the compressor due to vibrations.
Intake looks good. How much flat do you have after the MAF before the bend going into the compressor housing? A minimum of around 4inches is ideal to allow for laminar MAF reading.
If you need a PS pump I have a used one. In fact, I have a whole car I'm parting out. Just let me know.
What are you up to NOW Doug?
:)
RAI | MTM Stage II | DSMIC | Fluidampr | FX400 | Vogtlant GT coilovers | B6 S4 brakes | ER TIP | Forge 007 | STaSIS | Stërn | Apikol | JHM trio | Podi | OEM+
You going to run a catch can chris? Lovely new turbo and your going to spit oil all over the inside of it
You should try run the PCV line down under the passenger engine mount and up the TIP. Hide it away from view.
I'll be running a catch can very soon. I'm just sick of my wallet bleeding. Right now I just want to get my car up and running....because I have a wedding to shoot next weekend. I also haven't decided on which can to run yet.
Originally Posted by SleeperAvant
Chris,...just noticed your braided coolant line is sitting right on top of your compressor housing. You should shield the braided line with heat proof cloth so the braided line doesn't eat through the compressor due to vibrations.
I have a silicone/fibreglass sleeve that I'm going to put on there, I just haven't got around to it yet. The way the fitting is oriented, the line doesn't touch the manifold or the housing.
Originally Posted by dougyfresh
probably need a stud on that part of the test pipe.
A hammer solved the problem :)
Originally Posted by Turbavanttro
you're killing me man, i love your build. your car is so clean, and this build is right up there among my favorites.
its refreshing to see a build that isnt all about achieving the most horsepower, or being the fastest 1.8T, etc.
i cant wait to see photos of the "finished" product....(do we ever actually finish...)
Thank you! I'm glad someone is on the same page as me. I don't care about having 600hp. I just wanted a clean setup with a nice amount of extra power.
I don't understand the reason for this AN setup... to me it looks like a silicone T-hose on the back of the VC, then a complex AN fitting... that ends in a barb to go to a rubber line? Why not just a double ended barbed fitting?
Glad to see it's all coming together!
Jon
go > show
Ich liebe mein Audi!
2002 GTRS Avant - Built with love, sweat, bloody knuckles, and pride.
I don't understand the reason for this AN setup... to me it looks like a silicone T-hose on the back of the VC, then a complex AN fitting... that ends in a barb to go to a rubber line? Why not just a double ended barbed fitting?
Glad to see it's all coming together!
It looks clean, it's easy to take a apart, and it's easy to change.
I hate hose barbs, I know this is overkill......but it's only money right?
i went into this kind of detail with my saab 900 and it became an absolute obsession. i wanted to with my b6 build but remembering what all of the awesome plumbing set me back on the saab i decided to avoid that route. but thanks to you, i am completely second guessing my decision realizing that it is alot of fun to put something together that is completely unique and also built to last. All that plumbing is rock solid, and looks as stout as the rest of the turbo hardware does.
Well done. Doesnt it feel great to avoid all of the blue and red anodized plumbing fittings? No offense to those who use them, I just really dont like how they look. I could use a familiar four letter word starting with an R to describe what they remind me of, but I won't.....
i went into this kind of detail with my saab 900 and it became an absolute obsession. i wanted to with my b6 build but remembering what all of the awesome plumbing set me back on the saab i decided to avoid that route. but thanks to you, i am completely second guessing my decision realizing that it is alot of fun to put something together that is completely unique and also built to last. All that plumbing is rock solid, and looks as stout as the rest of the turbo hardware does.
Well done. Doesnt it feel great to avoid all of the blue and red anodized plumbing fittings? No offense to those who use them, I just really dont like how they look. I could use a familiar four letter word starting with an R to describe what they remind me of, but I won't.....
I'm a very detail-oriented person. One of the biggest things that gets me is when people spend a PILE of money on a manifold.....turbo....wastegate......etc, but then when it comes to the plumbing and the electrical, just throw it together in a hot mess. It's such a shame.
I don't mind the red and blue AN fittings on race cars and muscle cars. But when it comes to a classy build that isn't 100% business, I love black....or stainless. Fuck I've spent a LOT on fittings for this build, but I don't regret it a bit.
Originally Posted by Casius
Time for some Rice
How much power do you expect from this setup?
I'm hoping for 300 at the wheels.
Originally Posted by Bische
How does your car run with that intake?
Looks like a HAI to me :)
Having a cone filter right next to the turbo/manifold is NOT a good plan. .....what do your IAT's look like?
Today did NOT go as well as I had hoped. I thought I'd be out breaking in the engine by 9pm. Sadly not the case.
I got hung up on the downpipe to testpipe bolts. I got hung up trying to get the fucking downpipe reinstalled back into the rest of the exhaust. The 034 street density trans mount caused me a LOT of greif. Getting the old mount out was a pain, getting the new mount in was a PAIN. especially after I found out the bolt they supplied me with to bolt the mount to the bracket on the trans was about 3/8" too long and was hitting the tranmission. I FINALLY realized this was the issue after messing around for about 30 mins. I am not impressed. AND the studs they supplied to bolt the mount to the trans crossmember are also far too long. They stick out about 1" below the tranmission crossmember. I'll have to get under the car again tomorrow and cut them off with a dremel.
I managed to get nearly everything else finished though. Engine is full of oil. I re-routed the PCV.
All that's left for tomorrow is to finished putting in the intercooler piping, connect the TB to the cold side of the IC piping, add P/S fluid, install the bumper, headlights, and rig up a connection for my brake booster to the intake manifold. Then I should be good to flash the new software, prime the engine, and roll it over!
The 034 street density trans mount caused me a LOT of greif. Getting the old mount out was a pain, getting the new mount in was a PAIN. especially after I found out the bolt they supplied me with to bolt the mount to the bracket on the trans was about 3/8" too long and was hitting the tranmission. I FINALLY realized this was the issue after messing around for about 30 mins. I am not impressed. AND the studs they supplied to bolt the mount to the trans crossmember are also far too long. They stick out about 1" below the tranmission crossmember. I'll have to get under the car again tomorrow and cut them off with a dremel.
Have you had much luck with that DV/Splitter? Closed systems with a MAF generally do not like dumping to atmosphere. Something like a Forge 007 DV is ideal.
Have you had much luck with that DV/Splitter? Closed systems with a MAF generally do not like dumping to atmosphere. Something like a Forge 007 DV is ideal.
I had no idea. But that's complete bullshit. Oh well. I finally got it in but it was pain in the ass.
I had a 007 and bought a splitter. I was only running it for 2 weeks before I pulled the car off the road, but I had no issues with it so far. It sounds great!
....louder than I expected.
speaking of FMICs... who makes the one on MmmBoost's Avant? did i miss it somewhere? it was not listed in the OP.
BTW: OP, you are a wizzard with both a camera, and the wrenches... when i dig in, by the end of the day im too mad (usually) & tired to bother/care about taking pics. Thus far, you appear to have done a fantastic job of both. ... and your custom CAI came out beautiful.
EDIT: found it in his profile... RaceTec
Last edited by EErie B6; 06-11-2010 at 12:38 PM.
Reason: found it
-John
"get the biggest of everything you can. always. that's a winning combination. everytime. just ask the military." -Dan[FN]WTF
All that was left to do today was finish connecting the IC/DV, topping up the coolant, priming the power steering pump, install the bumper and headlights, and sort out the brake booster. I had things all wrapped up by about 8pm tonight. I managed to get the ECU flashed with the new software after a bit of messing around. The instructions aren't all that clear, but I got it sorted out. After the car was flashed, I cleaned myself up and took it out to break in the engine.
The car was running EXTREMELY lean. It was bucking like crazy. So I ended up adding a lot of extra fuel in the "quick settings" and that seems to have smoothed things out. After reviewing my flash and logs, and having a chat with Chris (bananas) it seems my MAF was set for the stock AMB MAF. So that has now been changed and I'm ready to flash the ECU with a few new changes tomorrow and see how it feels.
I got about 60kms on the engine tonight. 3000-5500rpms for about 45 mins to an hour. Other than the minor fueling thing, the car feels great. The wastegate is set a little low @ 12-13psi.....but even at that the car pulls nice and strong. I can't wait until 23! Tomorrow I'll be hooking up the N75 and starting to tune.
The oil is draining right now and i'll put some fresh stuff in it tomorrow along with a new filter. I think I'll change oil again at about 1500kms. .....or should I do it sooner? thoughts?
I would like to thank EVERYONE who has helped me out throughout this build. It's been a long time planning and an even longer 17 days of hard work, but after tonight's first drive, I know it was completely worth it and it's only going to get better.
And that's why you chain your oil RIGHT after the initial break-in
The oil is draining right now and i'll put some fresh stuff in it tomorrow along with a new filter. I think I'll change oil again at about 1500kms. .....or should I do it sooner? thoughts?
2 things.
1. Nice job with everything. You did an amazing job with the built and your pictures provided us a ton of information.
2. I am also wondering about the old change thing too. SO that crap in your pic is from the first 50km of driving? I am honestly surprised to see that much material. My motor is being built next week so would like info on what oil you used for break-in and what oil was suggested for break-in and how long between the first couple change intervals.
2004 A4 1.8TQ6MT - Dolphin Grey
-Maestro Stage III with a built block
-STaSIS/Ohlin/Swift Suspension w/ H-Sport Sways
-STaSIS/Alcon 355mm Mono4 BBK & 305mm Rear
-STaSIS 4:1 Center Diff & STaSIS LSD Rear Diff
-19" RS10 Forged wheels w/ Nitto NT-05
-Laser Intercepter Dual + Bel STI Magnum 301hp & 331 ft/lb uncorrected on 93 oct
I can't even fathom what this kind of work would cost to have done at a shop (for those of us who's Kung Fu is weak). I'll echo what others have said...its SOOOOO nice to see a build that focuses on attention to detail and elegance rather then extreme HP. That's what I want to do with MY Avant.
RAI | MTM Stage II | DSMIC | Fluidampr | FX400 | Vogtlant GT coilovers | B6 S4 brakes | ER TIP | Forge 007 | STaSIS | Stërn | Apikol | JHM trio | Podi | OEM+
Hey Chris, fantastic job with the build, im glad everything came out nicely, i didn't have any doubts! Can i get a high-res of this picture? lol, what an awesome plate.
Those first few kms would shave a large amount of crud off the engine, I imagine the amount would trail off very quickly after the first few kms, things would probably smooth pretty quick. If it was me I'd probably change it after another 1000 and then do another one after another 2000 or something like that. Not that I've ever done it but that just seems to make sense to me.
Beautiful beast this thing is, nice work
Man who goes to bed with itchy bum wakes up with stinky finger
I can't even fathom what this kind of work would cost to have done at a shop (for those of us who's Kung Fu is weak). I'll echo what others have said...its SOOOOO nice to see a build that focuses on attention to detail and elegance rather then extreme HP. That's what I want to do with MY Avant.
Sent it up to Canadia and I'll sort you out. haha.
I'm glad you enjoyed my build and appreciate what my goal was. I am extremely happy with the results. I can't wait to get this setup dialed in! It already feels great at 15 PSI.
Finally had a chance to get out tonight and do some logging after getting my MAF scaled a little better. I ended up scaling my tt225 MAF by 5% tonight to help even out the fuel delivery. It may have been a tad much. I think i'll try 4.5% and log it again.
For those interested here is a log from tonight. It's a mixture of highway cruising and WOT
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