I'm looking forward to seeing this thing finished too. It's consuming my life and my wallet......
Minor setback today...... I was unable to locate a new oil pump chain tensioner in the city today, so the soonest I can get one is tomorrow morning. I was hoping to have the engine all back together tonight, but that's not going to happen.
So I guess the focus of the evening is going to be oil and coolant lines. Maybe design a new wastegate bracket and rod extension.
Not gonna lie.......today was a pretty slow day for progress. I really didn't get a whole lot accomplished. Getting the lines routed around this manifold is no small task. It's such a compact setup that it makes getting the oil/coolant in and out very tricky. I think I've spent a small fortune on AN fittings. I had planned on coming straight out of the turbo oil return and then going to a -10AN braided line with a straight fitting, but after getting the manifold fit up with the turbo, there was no way I would be able to get the hose end screwed on. Maybe if I cut the heat shield? I already had to smash the crap out of it with a hammer to get it out of the way. So I think what I'm going to try is a 45° npt-10an adapter and then a 45° hose end. It will zig-zag much like the OEM oil return.
After a LOT of fucking around tonight, I finally was able to find a way to route the coolant return line so that it is constantly traveling upward. I didn't want any dips or downward angles to negatively impact efficiency of the thermal siphon effect after the car is shut off. Garrett recommends about 25° of tilt from vertical....mine is around 23-24°. (measure with my iphone.....so how close could it be) I had originally purchased two M14x15 - 6AN adapters but there was no way i could get the line out from behind the turbo without running into the manifold or the side of the compressor housing. What finally worked was going from a 45 out of the turbo to a 45 hose end.
I got the intake all cleaned up and put back on. New injectors put on using the IE fuel rail spacer kit since the injectors are much taller than the OEM ones. Got the upper coolant pipe put back on with a few hoses attached.
PS....... making stainless steel lines is a PAIN in the ass. They look pretty.......but such a pain. I think I'm finally getting the hang of it though.
Chris, are you running street density motor mounts? What is that piece in the very last pic?
It's a piece of stainless hose that has been cut. The black it tape, that is how you cut them (tape then hacksaw through the tape). My guess is that he cut it once and it frayed like mad, so he cut it again an inch down the line...? I've got to make some of those today myself, dammit.
They are annoying to cut, especially the smaller hoses. Effing metal wires poking out and sharp as hell.
Originally Posted by davkav
I remember reading somewhere that oil can turn to crystal like substances due to excessive heat? Maybe its down to that?
They are magnetic. My only guess is that they are leftover from some part of the manufacturing process and were not properly removed/cleaned out. Super weird.
Jon
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Ich liebe mein Audi!
2002 GTRS Avant - Built with love, sweat, bloody knuckles, and pride.
I'm running 034 Street Density motor mounts and transmission mount. Hopefully they stiffen things up a bit more than what I've got right now. I'm hoping that shifting under load gets smoothed out. Right now things can get a little sticky. I'm not sure if it's my linkage, motor mounts, or the actual shifter.
Well I don't mind a bit more vibration. I'm sure my female passengers won't mind either.
I wondering if it's my shifter that's causing the issues. I'll see if the mounts help. If not I think I'm going to replace all of the linkage bushings and shifter.
I have the full 034 street density mounts (motor/trans) and an APR snub and have no vibration at idle. I also have an AMS short shifter but never replaced the linkage underneath the car.
It's all in the install. Loosen the trans, motor and snub, then rev the motor a few times (once it's running of course lol) and tighten the trans, then motor, then snub. I've also found that when the temperature shifts dramatically the snub can cause vibrations, I think the motor mounts contract slightly in really cold weather and it pulls the snub down closer to the bottom edge of the cup so a snub realignment is necessary between seasons.
Jon
go > show
Ich liebe mein Audi!
2002 GTRS Avant - Built with love, sweat, bloody knuckles, and pride.
I'm running 034 Street Density motor mounts and transmission mount. Hopefully they stiffen things up a bit more than what I've got right now. I'm hoping that shifting under load gets smoothed out. Right now things can get a little sticky. I'm not sure if it's my linkage, motor mounts, or the actual shifter.
It'll smooth out all right with less jolting up front. Then u might want to try out an Apikol Rear Differential Upgrade (ARDU).
With all of that power (heck even with chipped power) u will notice the rear diff part of the drivetrain moving around back there. I am finicky and noticed it on stock power with all of the Street Density mounts. If u haven't already check the DIY for my writeup and pics.
U are working a lot faster than I ever could dream of (especially given my lack of experience). Best of gud luk on the build. U most certainly have ur eye solidly locked on the ball.
MODS
Do u have the Bentley or Dealership Manual & Tools it takes to work on YOUR car properly? Or...
Are u just going to continue to wing it & keep expecting manna to fall from AZ?
Apikol>Snub/Diff APR>ExhTIP-TB hoses,Stg3 AWE>DV
JHM>ShortShift-the works
Misc> 18x8x9 235/265;HSport S4 barsTT225;Bosch-F6DTC;CarbonioV2+V6Intake Inlet;HFC;Podi-P2;ATP mani;GPopK04;034mounts
SPEC>Stg3+,LWFW
STaSIS>328/305mm,40/60,SL
Personal Motto>Walk Softly Carry a Big Stick
I picked up my new oil pump chain tensioner and dipstick tube today. I also stopped off and got a few more fittings to help finish off the lines. I managed to work out the oil return line with the use of a 45° adapter out of the turbo drain flange to a 45° hose end. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out....In fact, I'm pretty happy with how all of the lines look. I spent almost 2 evenings on them, but they're done now :) So with my new parts I was able to finally compete the bottom end and put the pan back on. The motor is now all sealed up and ready for oil!
While I was putting some of the coolant hoses back on I noticed a bit of a rattle on the tube that comes out of the thermostat. I knew exactly what it was! More of those little fucking steel balls. I now am 100% sure they are the cause of my intermittent thermostat issues. I seriously feel like writing Audi an email asking them what the hell that shit was doing in my block.
and now for the goods......
One of the most expensive bolts I've ever had the pleasure of installing
I'll snap some more photos of the oil feed line tonight. i'm still trying to find a -4an black fitting for my feed line so I can shorten it up a bit. 48" is about 4-6" too long.
Are you the 1st owner of this car? I'm assuming not. Looks like the previous owner tried shot peening the motor for who knows what reason...
The factory would have no reason to shot peen the motor. Google it, 'shot peening.' Might also be the reason your rod bearing was chewed up as well.
Clean ALL that out before reinstall. Flush, flush, flush.
Are you the 1st owner of this car? I'm assuming not. Looks like the previous owner tried shot peening the motor for who knows what reason...
The factory would have no reason to shot peen the motor. Google it, 'shot peening.' Might also be the reason your rod bearing was chewed up as well.
Clean ALL that out before reinstall. Flush, flush, flush.
I know what shot peening is. I really don't think those are from shot peening. What possible reason would someone shot peen their coolant passages?
I believe they are from -as someone stated earlier- pellets used to clean the engine blocks after they are cast.
I test fit the engine today. Things look like they're going to fit just nicely. the stock airbox, however, looks like it's going to have to get tossed. There is interference with the flange and bolts on the wastegate block off plate. I took the heat shield off to see if the situation got any better and it was, but it is still WAY too close for my likings. 1500°F manifold 1/2" away from a plastic airbox = bad news. So I have decided to just ditch the box and go with a cone filter of some sort.
I snapped a few photos of the clamps I used to hold down my oil lines.....and I've ordered some stainless hardware to replace the green plated OEM bolts.
Since a ridiculous storm rolled through tonight, I had to yank the motor back out so I could work on it a little more. At the moment I've got the manifold and turbo sitting right next to me so I can work on fabbing up a new wastegate bracket and rod extension. I made my hose from the valve cover to the oil cooler. So the last things I need to sort out are the intake elbow with the diverter valve and PCV nipples, and the PCV connection from the pancake valve to the intake elbow.
I have a feeling your going to have a 30 series turbo and a Tial wastegate sitting on that manifold within a year. Good work Chris, very clean.... it will be running in no time.
I have a feeling your going to have a 30 series turbo and a Tial wastegate sitting on that manifold within a year. Good work Chris, very clean.... it will be running in no time.
This is the truth. Just wait until the 2871 feels a bit slow, and you've got everything else already in place for the 30 series... it'll happen. lol.
Jon
go > show
Ich liebe mein Audi!
2002 GTRS Avant - Built with love, sweat, bloody knuckles, and pride.
This is the truth. Just wait until the 2871 feels a bit slow, and you've got everything else already in place for the 30 series... it'll happen. lol.
Considering I think I'm going to have to ditch the stock airbox anyway......I might as well. haha! All I need is a new manifold, a new turbo, a wastegate and a new downpipe. That's it! lol
For the intake I was considering putting on some gold heat reflective film, but I still have to modify the box to accept my larger MAF housing.
Yeah, no way could I fit a factory airbox. Especially with a topmount manifold, you could never cram one in there. That photo is before the motor was actually really hooked up on the car, even less room now.
Heres a better one:
Today was a pretty slow day for progress. I spent the entire night messing around with the wastegate bracket.
I came up with a concept, made a template. Things looked good so I decided to go ahead and make the real deal out of aluminum. Well after getting things all finished I bolted it up and realized that it might just barely fit........but if I had to clock the compressor at all it might not work. So it was back to the drawing board. 2 more versions later I finally got it sorted out. I think it's going to work, but I won't be able to tell until I get my wastegate rod extension finished. So tomorrow I'm going to take the rod of 3/8" Stainless I bought and have the machine shop tap one end 1/4-28 UNF. Me trying to do that on a drill press would be a NIGHTMARE. I'll get someone with a lathe to do it.
If it's not pouring tomorrow, I might take the afternoon off. Get the clutch installed and then put the motor back in for good!. PS....... does anyone know what to torque the bolts supplied with the 240mm flywheel and FX300? got them from Ringer. They are not the standard OEM bolts.
Version 1 Template
Version 1 Fabbed Piece
Doesn't look like the rod was going to line up very well. V1 got scrapped
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