Oil Change DIY

[Blake P]

My dealer (Keyes Audi in Van Nuys, CA) REQUIRES me under my lease to get all maintenance done at their shop. I'm due for the first service now at the 5000 mile mark and I believe it is like $400. I am pretty sure they are going to do the same thing my local shop will do for $60. Has anyone found a way out of this problem?

The 5k service is supposed to be free.

[jbradle7]

My dealer (Keyes Audi in Van Nuys, CA) REQUIRES me under my lease to get all maintenance done at their shop. I'm due for the first service now at the 5000 mile mark and I believe it is like $400. I am pretty sure they are going to do the same thing my local shop will do for $60. Has anyone found a way out of this problem?

Read my previous post (#28)... I'm pretty sure what they are doing is illegal. Any lawyers onboard feel free to chime in here.

[Sevalley]

I read my manual and saw the free 5k service from Audi. I am taking my car to Rusnak in Thousand Oaks next week for the service. I'll just continue dealing with them instead of Keyes. Thanks.

[gamer2k]

All of the oil cap codes are the same right? Just bought a B cap to remove my filter with and it's refusing to get a tight fit onto the top of the filter even after a few knocks with a wrench... going to let the car cool down a bit and try again.

And thank you for the DIY, very helpful.

[gamer2k]

All of the oil cap codes are the same right? Just bought a B cap to remove my filter with and it's refusing to get a tight fit onto the top of the filter even after a few knocks with a wrench... going to let the car cool down a bit and try again.

And thank you for the DIY, very helpful.

finally got it to work with a shop towel wedged in the cap, whew.

[eaniemeanie]

FWIW the Porsche 996 oil filter wrench is metal and is the same size as the Audi filter. You can find it cheaper than this place linnked, I was just looking for a photo of it.
Wrench

[DavidB8]

I believe the proper socket is 74mm and 14 flute.

[jbradle7]

All of the oil cap codes are the same right? Just bought a B cap to remove my filter with and it's refusing to get a tight fit onto the top of the filter even after a few knocks with a wrench... going to let the car cool down a bit and try again.

And thank you for the DIY, very helpful.

Try a different brand wrench, my cheap-o wrench from Autozone works just great... "B" is 76mm, 14 flute. You really should not need to use a wrench to tighten the filter though.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=153158_0_0_

[DavidB8]

You never use a wrench to tighten a filter. Always hand tight until it's snug then a quarter turn more.

Oh and always make sure you oil the O ring around the filter as well. Just dip your finger tip in the oil and wipe it around the seal.

[jbradle7]

Found another nice link, for those who can never have too much information.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=6003180

[Seerlah]

That is proably the most conveneient of places I have ever seen an oil filter placed on an automobile. I would personally just get an oil extractor, cheap AutoZone oil filter wrench, and not even stress over an oil change. You guys even have like a built in funnel on your fill hole.

[DavidB8]

My understanding is the oil changes are done with an extractor. Something like this http://cgi.ebay.ca/Oil-Extractor-Ble...item51965442c0

Talk about making it easy. I think our filters also have a gate that closes to prevent oil from spilling out when you remove it.

[Seerlah]

I picked mine up from here. Pela 6000 for $55 shipped and holds ~6quarts. I don't have a B8, but purchased because I placed a skid plate on my car. I don't really plan on taking it on and off everytime I need to do an oil change. And I can take off the filter from my engine from the top, like you guys. Just not nearly as easy.

[DavidB8]

I need to get one of those soon. It just feels like such a waste though. I only have 3000km on my last oilchange but I am going to lapse in time not milage. I bet the oil I take out is better than most start with using dino oil.

[Seerlah]

It is more of a cop out for the lazy man. I used to always drain my oil from underneath, but placed on a metal belly pan when I dropped my car this summer. I have not used my oil extractor yet, but am not looking into removing my metal belly pan everytime I need to do an oil change, so this is my cop out from the extra work. I also placed on a magnetic drain plug at same time, because I really don't plan on touching it again unless I absolutely need to. The nice thing about items like this though, is you can always resell it (purchase for $55 shipped, resell for $40 shipped if you no longer want it. but I don't think that will be the case..........lazy man syndrome is spreading)

[userbbc]

Drive around the block til the oil gets up to temp, then park the car in the garage for 10-15 mins while you setup the oil extractor in order to let the oil drain out of the filter. Stick the extractor tube down the dipstick tube and start the extraction. Unscrew the oil cap to let air in and help the extraction process. Pump the extractor every once in a while to keep it going. You can probably unscrew the oil filter during extraction but I waited until it was done. Btw when the extraction is done, adjust the tube in and out and pump the extractor to see if the end of the tube was indeed at the very bottom of the pan.

Put the new filter on and fill'er up. Pour the old oil from the extractor reservoir into the empty jug of new oil so you can take it to any place that does oil changes; they will properly dispose of it. Shoot some brake or carb cleaner into the extractor tube to clean it out.

First time using the extractor went extremely well. Second time had some issues where only about half the oil was extracted via the extractor before it started sucking out air (even after multiple adjustments of the tube to make sure it was hitting the bottom of the pan.) I can't remember how long I waited before starting the first time, but perhaps I didn't wait long enough on the second oil change?

Is waiting 10-15 minutes generally enough time for all the oil to drain out of the filter (and I'm assuming the engine) into the pan?

[ItsDubC]

Hmm... not quite sure why only half of the oil came out during extraction. Even if you were able to setup the extractor and start the process quickly, I would think more than 10-15 mins would have passed since you stopped the car by the time it started sucking air. You mentioned making multiple adjustments to the tube so I'm fairly confident that you were indeed at the bottom at some point. You unscrewed the oil cap during extraction, correct?

[userbbc]

you know what, not sure if i did unscrew the oil cap... i have some motul that should be arriving today, will give it another go making sure the oil cap is off to equalize the pressure. Thanks for the input.

[ItsDubC]

^Good luck man. O btw I missed your previous post about the Lubro Moly not being full synthetic. Yes, that particular kind is not full synth. I can't remember exactly, but I thought I read something about the original Voll-synthese variety being full synth and then the formula changing, or maybe it was that the full synth Voll-synthese is only found in Europe. I dunno, my memory sucks [:P] There are quite a few sites selling Lubro Moly that show the image of the true Voll-synthese jug on the order page but the delivered product is different. Which Motul did you go w/?

Unfortunately, I'm not quite sure what the long-term effects of using full vs partial synth are. Any experts care to chime in on this?

[userbbc]

^Good luck man. O btw I missed your previous post about the Lubro Moly not being full synthetic. Yes, that particular kind is not full synth. I can't remember exactly, but I thought I read something about the original Voll-synthese variety being full synth and then the formula changing, or maybe it was that the full synth Voll-synthese is only found in Europe. I dunno, my memory sucks [:P] There are quite a few sites selling Lubro Moly that show the image of the true Voll-synthese jug on the order page but the delivered product is different. Which Motul did you go w/?

Unfortunately, I'm not quite sure what the long-term effects of using full vs partial synth are. Any experts care to chime in on this?

Started off with dealer oil Castrol Syntec then an oil change at a local shop switched me over to LubroMoly and I had that possibly placebo effect of increased smoother power delivery. Incidentally, that impression faded after a few thousand miles which was when I bought the oil extractor and switched to Motul x-max 5w40. Stuff worked great...smooth quiet engine with what I again thought was increased power for the life of the oil. Was going to run a UOA at the end but ran into an issue where my motul online order didn't arrive in time to top off the engine before a long trip (low oil pressure light already on). So ended changing the oil with Mobil 1 0w40. Engine ran a little rougher and power seemed to decrease (might also be due to the warm muggy weather) but my overall impression was that I liked motul better.

Issue now is that x-max 5w40 is now discontinued. Performanceoilstore supposedly has a good amount of stock left but I wanted to find something that would be a little more consistently available. Supposedly x-max was a group IV/V mix with a decent amount of esters.

This time I ordered motul x-clean 5w40 to get some further seat of pants impressions and maybe run a UOA at the end (though unfortunately mixed with whatever leftover Mobil is in the engine)
Not an expert myself, but generally compared oils looking for a clean running oil that would stay in grade. From what I gathered, there were some notes that to an extent, esters would act as a natural detergent which I supposed would be helpful for our DI engines (even though during my recent intake manifold replacement, the techs said the valves were pretty clean....though they did forget to take photos as I requested)

[ItsDubC]

^Some good info there. Thx!

[speedtrip]

just wanted to give a shout out to the OP as I used this DIY to complete a 15k oil change on my '10 B8. I used Castrol Syntec 5W40 and a MANN filter and magnetic drain plug w/ copper washer from ECS tuning. Since I'm APR stage II and wanna give love to my stock turbo, I'll be doing the changes myself every 5k miles.

I'll let the dealer rotate the tires for $30 and clear the stupid 'Service due' message that only a dealer or VAG COM can clear. #bunchabullshit

[redwagonhood]

Yes, a big thanks to the OP for the write up. This is a very easy car to change the oil on. The engine under tray is the biggest hangup and it is quite easy to remove. Beats my old WRX by a long way in this regard.

drive up ramps
remove tray
drain oil
replace filter
refill oil
install tray
done in 15 - 20 minutes

[keeva381]

I'm at 13K miles, should I be changing every 5K (and not waiting till 15K as recommended in the manual)?

Also, I used to rotate my wheels every oil change on my old car, since they were high performance tires and wore out quickly. If you change your oil every 5K, do you also rotate/balance wheels?

[jbradle7]

I'm at 13K miles, should I be changing every 5K (and not waiting till 15K as recommended in the manual)?

Also, I used to rotate my wheels every oil change on my old car, since they were high performance tires and wore out quickly. If you change your oil every 5K, do you also rotate/balance wheels?

You'll prob get a lot of dif opinions on both of these topics.

My opinion in regards to the factory oil change interval is that their recommendation for 10k oil changes is most likely based on cost of ownership/maint cost figures, rather than engine longevity. Oil is relatively cheap while engines and turbos are not... I plan to keep this car 10yrs and then possibly give it to my boys to drive, so it makes me feel better changing the oil every 5k miles. If you only plan to keep your car for 3-5yrs than I don't think it really matters, go with the factory recommended intervals.

Check this link out on the tire rotation question, this was regarding Bimmers but still interesting. I don't rotate my HP tires but will rotate my winter and AS tires to increase tire life... but like I said, you'll get 100 different opinions on this topic.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...5034827AAuMXEy

[keeva381]

6.) Install Drain Plug
a. Discard old drain plug seal (mine would not come off so I used diagonal pliers to cut it off).

So I took my audi to Just Tires (yes, they do oil changes). I've known the owner for probably 8 years and never had any problems. Does the rotate and balance for me too. I get home and 1 day later find this in my garage (car has 20K miles on it):



Obviously I took it back. They said the oil pan plug was causing the problem and as soon as they turned it the oil came gushing out. They DID NOT replace the old plug seal, and said they couldn't get it off if they tried. Now I saw where the OP had to cut their's off? Is this really what we need to do EACH oil change? And where do you get the new seal? Just curious because I think (and hope) that this was the problem. All threads looked fine.

Any help would be much appreciated. I now have to probably redo the oil change myself.

[jfo]

The crush washer does not come off the drain plug. It's designed to replace the whole plug. I suppose you could cut it off. You can buy the plug/washer for about $2 or source a separate plug, like the magnetic plugs and just replace the washers. Either way, it's small change.

Concerning tire rotation, it 's a good idea to rotate but you don't need to re-balance. I tend to rotate mine about every 8k km and do it myself.

[jbradle7]

I only had issue with the washer coming off first oil change (from factory) and have not had an issue since.

No need to replace your drain plug every time.

And FYI... even if they did re-use the old washer, there should not be any leakage like that, unless they just plain forgot to tighten the plug or stripped it out completely. Either way, that little issue would make me seriously question ever letting them work on my car again.

[grnfool]

And FYI... even if they did re-use the old washer, there should not be any leakage like that, unless they just plain forgot to tighten the plug or stripped it out completely. Either way, that little issue would make me seriously question ever letting them work on my car again.

+1 I didn't replace my washer and 4000 miles later I'm still leak free.

[jfo]

Well, that depends on how many times it's been re-used. I've re-used them too, but it's aluminum and does indeed crush and deform, so at some point it may no longer seal.

[audirings4]

I bought myself one of these and a set of 10 crush washers.



http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_S4-...n_Plug/ES5385/

[jbradle7]

I decided to ditch the drain plug all together
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...alve-Installed

[grnfool]

Well, that depends on how many times it's been re-used. I've re-used them too, but it's aluminum and does indeed crush and deform, so at some point it may no longer seal.

Yes you're correct there. On my previous car, I used the same washer for ~4years (~40K miles and ~8 oil changes) before I noticed a very small leak. The leak was no where near the Exxon Valdez leak that Keeva had, maybe a few drops a week.

Now I'm not saying that you should go X number of miles before changing the crush washer, I'm just agreeing with jbradle that re-using a crush washer should not lead to the mess that Keeva has, who only has ~20K miles on his car.

[jfo]

Yes you're correct there. On my previous car, I used the same washer for ~4years (~40K miles and ~8 oil changes) before I noticed a very small leak. The leak was no where near the Exxon Valdez leak that Keeva had, maybe a few drops a week.

Now I'm not saying that you should go X number of miles before changing the crush washer, I'm just agreeing with jbradle that re-using a crush washer should not lead to the mess that Keeva has, who only has ~20K miles on his car.

I understand , but for .20 for a washer, why would you even think about re using it and risking a leak?

I used the Fumoto valve that jbradle installed for years on previous cars and it's great. But now my mileage is so low that I don't mind grabbing the wrench every 9mths or so to change the oil.

[Liquid Smoke]

if i change the oil using an extractor and dont go near the oil/drain pan at all, i dont still have to replace the drain plug and washer right? as long as i dont open it and doing it all from under the hood, can i just leave that original plug/washer in the oil pan? or does it like wear out over time or something?

[jfo]

if i change the oil using an extractor and dont go near the oil/drain pan at all, i dont still have to replace the drain plug and washer right? as long as i dont open it and doing it all from under the hood, can i just leave that original plug/washer in the oil pan? or does it like wear out over time or something?

No, it will not wear out over time if never removed.