1.8l + PTE5857 = 425awhp?

[Clint@R.A.I.]

So why don't we make a return fuel system? If it'll yield more fuel and more power?

because 98% of people on here don't need it. You need to be making 400+ awhp on 93 octane, which is RARE. Keep in mind race gas makes more with less fuel

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I know my build sucks, you didn't have to remind me


I don't know why you're being all defensive. I wasn't trying to break the bank with my build or make the most power ever, or take your "top dog" crown. I want to just keep it pretty basic and just see how much power it will make.

I didn't say your build sucks. Your car will still make plenty of power the way it is, I was just stating it is nothing fancy and no different really then Sam or Daniel or Shawn, or Winston's original build, etc, etc as far as what it has as a "basic build" but people were talking like it was something way different than what has been seen before.

[Dan[FN]6262]

update lol


rods/pistons are assembled. looking for the trq wrench so that I can install them...

I didn't say your build sucks.

haha I know

[winston@podi.ca]

Winston, you missed one of the biggest ways to get air into the motor, CAMS. Had you put cams in with the small port, you might have cracked 400.

You missed the point here. He wants to make 400 on STOCK cams and I am giving him my feedback.

I'm sure I could have made 600whp doing a whole ton of stuff, but I wanted to hit 400awhp with stock cams and if I couldn't do it putting in aftermarket cams was next.

There is 0 reason that he has to increase displacement. People have made 600whp on 1.8L displacement. The 2L is ~$1500 and that's not worth it to some. Honestly, I don't know why people even do the 1.9L when you can get a crank for $50.

Yeah... lots of people have done it but did they do it with the same fueling issues the B6 has?

Come on Clint... it's not like I don't know what's going on. I'm trying to give him input based on his build criteria and not pulling examples from setups that aren't the same.

[Clint@R.A.I.]

You missed the point here. He wants to make 400 on STOCK cams and I am giving him my feedback.

I'm sure I could have made 600whp doing a whole ton of stuff, but I wanted to hit 400awhp with stock cams and if I couldn't do it putting in aftermarket cams was next.



Yeah... lots of people have done it but did they do it with the same fueling issues the B6 has?

Come on Clint... it's not like I don't know what's going on. I'm trying to give him input based on his build criteria and not pulling examples from setups that aren't the same.

No idea what fueling has to do with displacement. Are you saying that the 25hp or whatever gained from stroking the bottom end messes with the fueling?

[winston@podi.ca]

English is a great language.

I NEVER said anything about fueling and displacement having any direct issues with each other. You all read into it however you wanted and came out with that idea.

What I said

And why you would run massive injectors but keep the displacement to 1.8L doesn't make sense

With the OP stated build criteria of STOCK cams, an upgraded fuel pump and no meth, which I know the limit of what power it can make, I'm wondering why not increase the displacement and even lower the compression ratio to get the extra power since running the 1000s by itself just isn't going to do it.

[Dan[FN]6262]

With the OP stated build criteria of STOCK cams, an upgraded fuel pump and no meth, which I know the limit of what power it can do, I'm wondering why not increase the displacement to get the extra power since running the 1000s by itself just isn't going to do it.

ok, now I understand entirely what you meant. I more or less wanted to run 1000cc injectors for headroom. I am going to do cams, just after I make sure that this all gets running correctly. Also, since the B6 fuel system is static, and loses some fuel pressure as the boost raises, I wanted injectors that will still flow a lot even though there is less pressure.... IDK how to explain it.

example: the static fuel pressure at the rail is, say, 43psi@8k rpms, and your blowing 32psi of boost, you have 32psi of air trying to keep the fuel in the injector that has only 43psi trying to push it out.... so, according to my logic (which is nowhere near as sound as Spock's) if I were to run a much larger injector, there would be more fuel available in said circumstance.

From what Clint has told me (and a couple other people that I cannot remember right now) after 26psi of boost, 830cc injectors really will only flow 630cc (IN THE B6 STATIC FUEL SYSTEM)..... You probably already know this. Fuck it, I'm not going to delete all this after I typed it lol.

[winston@podi.ca]

You got it right.

I did the same thing... use larger injectors to provide the more fuel as the boost increases to compensate for the drop in fuel pressure.

I went from 630 -> 780 -> 830 and while there was some gains it was not enough and IIRC maxed out around 350awhp at 25psi.

Now that we have the Maestro tuning software we could probably have tweaked the file to get a bit more power out of the setup but not 50hp.

With the AEB head we have cracked 400awhp and now we are trying to see if we can tune the setup to run 630cc injectors and still make that much power with a bit of meth.

Why I want to run the 630s? The car purrs like a cat at idle.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Your car didn't idle good on 830s Winston? My car idles as close to excellent as you can get with 830cc injectors.

[7speed]

Yeah my car idles perfectly with my 830's, but I make 50AWHP less than you guys do.

[winston@podi.ca]

Your car didn't idle good on 830s Winston? My car idles as close to excellent as you can get with 830cc injectors.

I am pretty sure the idling issue was due to the spray pattern (narrow stream vs. wide cone) of the 830s we were using back then.

I just like the Siemens 630s and I want to satisfy my curiosity of how small an injector I can run to make the most power.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I had Siemens 630cc injectors and now Lucas 830cc injectors and I would say my car idles identical with both.

Here is my car starting and ideling with it cold with 830cc Lucas injectors, and this is even with a 70mm throttle body as well that I swapped in with my intake manifold and there were no changes made to my tune from the original beta file I was given back in May 2009.

click here

[B6Lovin]

+1

You won't make 400awhp with the AMB head regardless of how much work you do to it as it just doesn't flow enough air. I know as I decided to walk down that path already even though people told me otherwise.

If you are going to do the work do it to an AEB head and save yourself some time and money as head building isn't cheap even if you are doing your own work.

And why you would run massive injectors but keep the displacement to 1.8L doesn't make sense

give me a little bit and i'll see your negative-nancy opinions of the AMB head and raise you one 93octane 400awhp a4 with an AMB head.... just gotta get back to the dyno.



edit - after reading your further criteria, i definitely know i fit your "bill" for stock... so yeah. gimmie a bit on that one.
(p.s. - 361 on a shitty hot day with 630's, and 7400rpm.... you don't think i can make up 40whp with more boost, more fuel, decent conditions, and 8k+?)

400whp is definitely within reach. i don't think people should be such a downer on Dan's goals here

[winston@podi.ca]

give me a little bit and i'll see your negative-nancy opinions of the AMB head and raise you one 93octane 400awhp a4 with an AMB head.... just gotta get back to the dyno.



edit - after reading your further criteria, i definitely know i fit your "bill" for stock... so yeah. gimmie a bit on that one.
(p.s. - 361 on a shitty hot day with 630's, and 7400rpm.... you don't think i can make up 40whp with more boost, more fuel, decent conditions, and 8k+?)

400whp is definitely within reach. i don't think people should be such a downer on Dan's goals here

I know the gas you have back East is hella better than the West coast crap we have here, so I wish you luck hitting 400 but making up 40whp is a lot.

When I put race gas in the car we got to 380awhp without doing any adjustments.

[Dan[FN]6262]

So I was looking over my head last night trying to decide if I wanted to sell it and run an AEB or keep it. I'm gonna keep it.

[Clint@R.A.I.]

lol ok

[Dan[FN]6262]

[MMMB00ST_A4]

give me a little bit and i'll see your negative-nancy opinions of the AMB head and raise you one 93octane 400awhp a4 with an AMB head.... just gotta get back to the dyno.



edit - after reading your further criteria, i definitely know i fit your "bill" for stock... so yeah. gimmie a bit on that one.
(p.s. - 361 on a shitty hot day with 630's, and 7400rpm.... you don't think i can make up 40whp with more boost, more fuel, decent conditions, and 8k+?)

400whp is definitely within reach. i don't think people should be such a downer on Dan's goals here

Was going to post this exact comment but you beat me to it. I have just been listening in on the last few pages of this thread and was scratching my head when Winston said they only reached 350awhp with his setup on pump, "maxed out".

[MMMB00ST_A4]

Keep your AMB head Dan. You can make your 400whp. Dan (B6Lovin) should be close to that mark with 830s, stock cams, and no meth. You also have a little better turbo. Good Luck my friend, and stop second guessing yourself.

[Dan[FN]6262]

Keep your AMB head Dan. You can make your 400whp. Dan (B6Lovin) should be close to that mark with 830s, stock cams, and no meth. You also have a little better turbo. Good Luck my friend, and stop second guessing yourself.

Thanks

[A4 TSCHUSS]

$100 says Daniel doesn't hit 400whp on 93 with his 30r and current mods. You can change to bigger injectors all you want and rev to 9000 all you want too. Aint happening unless maybe you do some research and find the happiest dyno around in your area and go there. 361whp was made and that was CORRECTED for one, so what was the REAL number, like 350? And that was at 29psi so not like you are going to run more boost or anything either. You said it acted up because of your injectors, well with the bigger injectors I say it still isn't happening and will be generous and give you another 15whp to add to your CORRECTED number which still puts you way short and if we use the number you actually made and not a corrected number then you are way off. I feel heartbreak coming in the future.

[MMMB00ST_A4]

$100 says Daniel doesn't hit 400whp on 93 with his 30r and current mods. You can change to bigger injectors all you want and rev to 9000 all you want too. Aint happening unless maybe you do some research and find the happiest dyno around in your area and go there. 361whp was made and that was CORRECTED for one, so what was the REAL number, like 350? And that was at 29psi so not like you are going to run more boost or anything either. You said it acted up because of your injectors, well with the bigger injectors I say it still isn't happening and will be generous and give you another 15whp to add to your CORRECTED number which still puts you way short and if we use the number you actually made and not a corrected number then you are way off. I feel heartbreak coming in the future.

Your argument of corrected vs. uncorrected numbers means nothing. The corrected argument goes both ways. Corrected numbers are the "better" numbers to follow as they are calculated by using a known standard temperature as the article states. It is a better way to keep numbers from different dynos, in different states, at different altitudes, under different conditions (temperature, humidity) somewhat accurately comparable. Colder temperatures will yeild better results, as i'm sure you would already know. And vice-versa for warmer temperatures. Corrected is obviously just a calculation that just takes all the different variables into account and adjusts accordingly. So, if we are going to be "technical", Dan's numbers are accurate, or as accurate as can be pending the conditions of his environment that day. So yes, Dan made 361awhp.

Here is a quote from a dynomometer manufacturer;
"Uncorrected or actual numbers are the power numbers as measured at the atmospheric conditions of the time of the test. (more power on a cool day, less on a hot, humid day)
Corrected numbers are the "as tested" actual numbers with an accepted correction factor applied to normalise the results to those that would be measured at a known standard temperature and pressure."

[A4 TSCHUSS]

First off a corrected number is stupid, because your car didn't make that power. I have "361 corrected whp" but when you drive down the road and it is 85* out and your car really only has 348whp (a number I made up) that is a difference. And he was sure to list his corrected number which you just stated accounts for all the weather variables but then stated it was hot that day along with the other stuff (car sputtered, car misfired, car ran lean, etc) aka excuses for the number he got. It is fine to think you can possibly do a little better but be realistic and jumping to 400 even if he wants to use a corrected number is not realistic in my eyes.

It is like Jordan (Co Avant) going around and saying from his race gas dyno he did in Denver of 38Xwhp that his car has 42Xwhp because that is the corrected number for sealevel, etc. But his car doesn't have that power and if he ran it down a track you would see it doesn't have that when it traps lower than it should.

[MMMB00ST_A4]

First off a corrected number is stupid, because your car didn't make that power. I have "361 corrected whp" but when you drive down the road and it is 85* out and your car really only has 348whp (a number I made up) that is a difference. And he was sure to list his corrected number which you just stated accounts for all the weather variables but then stated it was hot that day along with the other stuff (car sputtered, car misfired, car ran lean, etc) aka excuses for the number he got. It is fine to think you can possibly do a little better but be realistic and jumping to 400 even if he wants to use a corrected number is not realistic in my eyes.

A dyno # is used solely to compare whp #s. I never said anything about his car making 361awhp on the street. Clearly, 2 cars in the same place at the same time with the same variables on the same dyno would be an accurate comparison of whp #s, but that doesn't happen here on AZ or anywhere else really for that matter. And that is what corrected #s are for, to get as close to an accurate comparison as possible using a constant set of values for temperature, humidity, etc. So you are telling me that corrected #s are stupid because they are accurate? That sounds stupid to me...

[Haenszel20v]

Ok, just saw this thread. Time to jump in.

So, what are we fighting about? cliffs?

[MMMB00ST_A4]

Ok, just saw this thread. Time to jump in.

So, what are we fighting about? cliffs?

LoL, nothing really. We're both bored at work i bet haha. Atleast i know I am

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I guess you didn't read my post. They are stupid because they are MADE UP. Your car didn't make that number. I edited my post so you can look at that for an example but I will say it again.

Pretend you go and dyno at 3000ft elevation and it is 95* and you made 300whp but the correction for sealevel and 70* and whatever else some correction may take in to account for said you had 400whp. You then went down the street to the local 1/4 mile and ran 25 times and the best trap you could get on all perfect runs was 105mph, well that shows clearly you DO NOT have 400whp because if you did then you would be running say 115mph traps instead not 105. So therefore the corrected MADE UP number is stupid because plain and simple your car DID NOT MAKE THAT POWER! PERIOD!

[Haenszel20v]

LoL, nothing really. Were both bored at work i bet haha. Atleast i know I am

so am I. Thus my wanting to jump in. hahah.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Ok, just saw this thread. Time to jump in.

So, what are we fighting about? cliffs?

Cliffs:

Daniel aka B6lovin said he is going to make 400whp with his current setup on 93 octane since he changed from 630cc injectors to 830cc injectors and is going to rev to 8000+ instead of 7200 or whatever. He made 361whp (which was a corrected number and not what he really made btw) but he is going to jump 40whp by changing his injectors and revving another 1000rpm on his .63 ar gt3076r using stock cams which he was running 29psi on already on his last dyno of 361whp corrected. Oh and I said corrected numbers are stupid because you didn't make that number.

[MMMB00ST_A4]

I guess you didn't read my post. They are stupid because they are MADE UP. Your car didn't make that number. I edited my post so you can look at that for an example but I will say it again.

Pretend you go and dyno at 3000ft elevation and it is 95* and you made 300whp but the correction for sealevel and 70* and whatever else some correction may take in to account for said you had 400whp. You then went down the street to the local 1/4 mile and ran 25 times and the best trap you could get on all perfect runs was 105mph, well that shows clearly you DO NOT have 400whp because if you did then you would be running say 115mph traps instead not 105. So therefore the corrected MADE UP number is stupid because plain and simple your car DID NOT MAKE THAT POWER! PERIOD!

You must not have read my post either. I said nothing about traps, or anything related to drag times or streetable whp. I am talking solely comparing dyno #s (which is irrelivant anyway). Corrected numbers are the accepted numbers for pretty much every scene other than AZ, or maybe just you i guess, because it keeps the NUMBERS that are being compared, not drag times or any other bullshit, on the same scale as far as calculations go to keep the "It was hot that day", or "Well you dynoed and it was only 20* outside so your #s dont count" shit out of the equation.

[MMMB00ST_A4]

So in conclusion, the corrected number equation exists solely for people like you that say "Who cares what temps were when you dynoed, you didn't make the power" (even though you use the same reasoning when you fall short at the track) "Temperatures at the track were XX* so the car was doing this or that" They also exist for the people that say "Oh, well if it was 60* instead of 90* i would have made 400awhp". The corrected number equation eliminates the excuses and gives a realistic number found to be accurate after many hours of testing on different dynos, at different temps, and altitudes so that the equation helps to keep comparisons at a level playing field..

I also see where you are coming from which is why i also stated that it has nothing to do with how much power you make ON THE STREET whereever you might live where altitude, temp, and humidity will all be a factor. I am just stating that corrected numbers are fair when comparing DYNO NUMBERS, and only dyno numbers.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

All dynoes read so far off from each other that you cant even really remotely compare one to the next so thinking that you can because it is a corrected number is rediculous. And unfortunately people are all fixiated on a dyno number instead of the actual performance of the car how it drives down the road (or track), you know the real world performance. And I wouln't say drag times (actually speaking of traps, I don't care about the time) are "bullshit" considering they don't lie about the real performance of a car, but dynos do.

[Ray@R.A.I]

hey winston, when you were running the small port head did the car have quicker torque vs the big port? I have never been able to do back to back comparisons on the same car. But i would assume the small port would have better boost response (loaded acceleration) , and better off boost driving characteristics. any chance you can email the dyno's to me. im gonna search for you build thread and read up on it.

Dan, i think you can have fun with the small port. Dont get caught in the cycle of adding stuff mid build that just cause delays and adds cost. Get the project done, collect data and form your own conclusion of the setup. If you fell then like you need to improve then go for it. Once the car is running it will be easier for you or any diy'er to troubleshoot and maximize with less variables thrown into the equation. Not every build needs to set dyno or track records. For most including myself its all about how the car drives.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

So in conclusion, the corrected number equation exists solely for people like you that say "Who cares what temps were when you dynoed, you didn't make the power" (even though you use the same reasoning when you fall short at the track) "Temperatures at the track were XX* so the car was doing this or that" They also exist for the people that say "Oh, well if it was 60* instead of 90* i would have made 400awhp". The corrected number equation eliminates the excuses and gives a realistic number found to be accurate after many hours of testing on different dynos, at different temps, and altitudes so that the equation helps to keep comparisons at a level playing field..

I also see where you are coming from which is why i also stated that it has nothing to do with how much power you make ON THE STREET whereever you might live where altitude, temp, and humidity will all be a factor. I am just stating that corrected numbers are fair when comparing DYNO NUMBERS, and only dyno numbers.

I think you are confusing me for Daniel for saying why he only ran a best of 12.59 instead of an 11 even while running race gas mixed to help counter act temps of the track I don't really need "excuses."

Only "excuse" if you want to call it one I "used" was my clutch slipped and my transmission doesn't shift for shit. But I showed multiple in car videos of it happening so I think that is pretty valid, but I never said I was going to do better than I did with the condition the car was in, so it was more of showing the conditions I ran in and not an "excuse" of why I didn't do better because in fact I said I had no plans of running an 11 before I went to the track. And since day one people have always second guessed me in regards to my car and time and time again, I proved every last one of them wrong because I know what it and myself were capable of. People didn't think I could run 12s with a gtrs, well I did and I did it on 19s and made the second fastest time ever in the U.S. (.12 slower) behind Mike Hood who everyone pretty much considers a pro driver and the car was running better fuel than I used also and had lightweight smaller wheels on it. They then said I couldn't run low 12s when I said I was going to while building my car, "why don't you not claim stuff since you haven't done it" and to make it more shocking there were some that didn't even think I would do better than my best gtrs time which was plain rediculous. I said I would do it on race gas no doubt, well I went and did it several times not even using race gas and several times also with a screwed up clutch and tranny to boot! Some said nobody would hit 400whp without race gas which included me how I run my car, well I did and on a dyno dynamics which everyone knows is not a high reading dyno, but quite the opposite. I don't need excuses because I know what my car does and doesn't do and I don't get caught up with hopes and dreams of stuff that isn't so realistic.

And while I am at it, I will make another "claim" for people to doubt. When I get my current car issues sorted out I WILL run 11.8, so people can doubt that one too for a while Then once again they can eat their words WHEN (not if) it happens and it will be on 19s like always and full interior, no stripping seats and installing small lightweight wheels like others.

[Ray@R.A.I]

I think you are confusing me for Daniel for saying why he only ran a best of 12.59 instead of an 11 even while running race gas mixed to help counter act temps of the track I don't really need "excuses."

Only "excuse" if you want to call it one I "used" was my clutch slipped and my transmission doesn't shift for shit. But I showed multiple in car videos of it happening so I think that is pretty valid, but I never said I was going to do better than I did with the condition the car was in, so it was more of showing the conditions I ran in and not an "excuse" of why I didn't do better because in fact I said I had no plans of running an 11 before I went to the track. And since day one people have always second guessed me in regards to my car and time and time again, I proved every last one of them wrong because I know what it and myself were capable of. People didn't think I could run 12s with a gtrs, well I did and I did it on 19s and made the second fastest time ever in the U.S. (.12 slower) behind Mike Hood who everyone pretty much considers a pro driver and the car was running better fuel than I used also and had lightweight smaller wheels on it. They then said I couldn't run low 12s when I said I was going to while building my car, "why don't you not claim stuff since you haven't done it" and to make it more shocking there were some that didn't even think I would do better than my best gtrs time which was plain rediculous. I said I would do it on race gas no doubt, well I went and did it several times not even using race gas and several times also with a screwed up clutch and tranny to boot! Some said nobody would hit 400whp without race gas which included me how I run my car, well I did and on a dyno dynamics which everyone knows is not a high reading dyno, but quite the opposite. I don't need excuses because I know what my car does and doesn't do and I don't get caught up with hopes and dreams of stuff that isn't so realistic.

And while I am at it, I will make another "claim" for people to doubt. When I get my current car issues sorted out I WILL run 11.8, so people can doubt that one too for a while Then once again they can eat their words WHEN (not if) it happens and it will be on 19s like always and full interior, no stripping seats and installing small lightweight wheels like others.

I dont know a ton on the details of your car (i will look it up later), but i do know once you get the tuning done it will be pretty dam legit to say the least.

[winston@podi.ca]

hey winston, when you were running the small port head did the car have quicker torque vs the big port? I have never been able to do back to back comparisons on the same car. But i would assume the small port would have better boost response (loaded acceleration) , and better off boost driving characteristics. any chance you can email the dyno's to me. im gonna search for you build thread and read up on it.

Dan, i think you can have fun with the small port. Dont get caught in the cycle of adding stuff mid build that just cause delays and adds cost. Get the project done, collect data and form your own conclusion of the setup. If you fell then like you need to improve then go for it. Once the car is running it will be easier for you or any diy'er to troubleshoot and maximize with less variables thrown into the equation. Not every build needs to set dyno or track records. For most including myself its all about how the car drives.

The car was more responsive with the AMB head on the street/highway but on the track at the higher RPM (6000+) the power felt flat which also showed up on the dyno as you can see the tq curve drop sharply.

With the AEB head above 6000rpm the car just doesn't want to stop accelerating. I kept running out of road before I ran out of steam. The last track day at PIR I was just shy of 250kph/155mph in 4th gear around 7000rpm and the car was still accelerating (I have 8500rpm limit) before I chickened out and lifted. I did this four times in a row before my instructor asked me WTF I was doing. I told him that I got spooked as I never felt my car accelerate lke that before in its previous configuration (AMB head)

Off boost I didn't notice much difference between the AMB and AEB setups.

I'll dig up the dyno charts when I get back to the office but they should all be posted in the build threads I made.

[HTA A4]

I'm gonna have to agree with Ray here. Who gives 2 shits how much power your car makes compared to the next guy? Or how quick your car goes down a track? I didn't build my car to become king of the mountain by any means. I built it because I have a passion for cars, specifically Audi's and I wanted to gain knowledge and enjoy it for what it is. A fast car that has AWD is tons of fun for me because I know I'll always have traction. That's why I did my build.

/End of dick measuring contest

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I dont know a ton on the details of your car (i will look it up later), but i do know once you get the tuning done it will be pretty dam legit to say the least.

Tuning is an unfortunate hurdle I have since I can't get Unitronic to help me for shit anymore. I got a beta file for my 2003 A4 in May last year working with a rep named Adam and then got together with him when he made a trip to me for the day. We did one revision to increase my rev limiter and remove codes for sai, N249, mafless so I had no check engine. We did 1 or 2 more revisions and something happened where the car started acting funny so we went back to an original revision thinking that was the issue and were suppose to meet again. It never happened and he is no longer a rep. I talke to Mike Z on the phone once about 2 or 3 months ago and he said working on the 830cc file for the A4 was on the bottom of his list (other than what you guys got done for Clint's 2002). I have also sent multiple emails to different people trying to get somewhere, especially now that I have lean conditions after switching to the PTE 5857 from my Gt30r.

Mods are:
2 liter (83mm bore) Supertech 9.1:1 compression pistons, Pauter rods
AEB Head, cat valve springs, supertech valves, Schrick 252/260 cams
Apikol intake manifold with 70mm throttle body
atp log manifold (shitty, yes I know) PTE 5857 journal bearing
3" exhaust to the split in the rear which is what is left of my original Neuspeed exhaust
Converted to b5 A4 style return fuel system with 4 bar regulator in the rail and Lucas 830cc injectors, -6an line from fuel pump to fuel rail. I could easily disconnect the vacuum line to the regulator and make it 4 bar static like a stock B6 fuel system just with the upgraded line size.
Bosch 046 fuel pump which according to testing done at RC Engineering flowed quite a bit more than a bosch 040 and also more than a bosch 005.
Precision 600hp core with 2.5" piping
Snow Performance methanol injection with a 625cc nozzle spraying about 8" from the throttle body.
Clutch Masters FX400 6 puck ceramic clutch and Clutch Masters steel lightweight flywheel which is currently slipping a little bit depending on how I drive (think this was due to a jacked up resurface job done to the flywheel and pressure plate by a local shop after I replaced the disk from it being ruined from oil leaking out of bad rear main seal).

Think that is it.

Currently running 12.1 air/fuel at 26psi and around 12.7 at 28psi and 13.01 at 30psi with the said above fuel system using 93 and spraying 0*F washer fluid for the meth injection.

[Ray@R.A.I]

The car was more responsive with the AMB head on the street/highway but on the track at the higher RPM (6000+) the power felt flat which also showed up on the dyno as you can see the tq curve drop sharply.

With the AEB head above 6000rpm the car just doesn't want to stop accelerating. I kept running out of road before I ran out of steam. The last track day at PIR I was just shy of 250kph/155mph in 4th gear around 7000rpm and the car was still accelerating (I have 8500rpm limit) before I chickened out and lifted. I did this four times in a row before my instructor asked me WTF I was doing. I told him that I got spooked as I never felt my car accelerate lke that before in its previous configuration (AMB head)

Off boost I didn't notice much difference between the AMB and AEB setups.

I'll dig up the dyno charts when I get back to the office but they should all be posted in the build threads I made.

i think for a street car using a small port with nice extrude hone opening the overall geometry 20-40 percent (gotta really think this out??) would be sweet. Fortunately i have a customer/friend with there car in the shop now we will be doing some block and turbo experiments with to grab that fine line between fun to drive and dyno queen lol, unfortunately we wont be doing anything with the current small port other then the already complete supertech components. i read through one of the threads i think i need to find the one before the #4 drama.

edit: thanks for the info i will be in contact for moar!!!

[Ray@R.A.I]

Tuning is an unfortunate hurdle I have since I can't get Unitronic to help me for shit anymore. I got a beta file for my 2003 A4 in May last year working with a rep named Adam and then got together with him when he made a trip to me for the day. We did one revision to increase my rev limiter and remove codes for sai, N249, mafless so I had no check engine. We did 1 or 2 more revisions and something happened where the car started acting funny so we went back to an original revision thinking that was the issue and were suppose to meet again. It never happened and he is no longer a rep. I talke to Mike Z on the phone once about 2 or 3 months ago and he said working on the 830cc file for the A4 was on the bottom of his list (other than what you guys got done for Clint's 2002). I have also sent multiple emails to different people trying to get somewhere, especially now that I have lean conditions after switching to the PTE 5857 from my Gt30r.

Mods are:
2 liter (83mm bore) Supertech 9.1:1 compression pistons, Pauter rods
AEB Head, cat valve springs, supertech valves, Schrick 252/260 cams
Apikol intake manifold with 70mm throttle body
atp log manifold (shitty, yes I know) PTE 5857 journal bearing
3" exhaust to the split in the rear which is what is left of my original Neuspeed exhaust
Converted to b5 A4 style return fuel system with 4 bar regulator in the rail and Lucas 830cc injectors, -6an line from fuel pump to fuel rail. I could easily disconnect the vacuum line to the regulator and make it 4 bar static like a stock B6 fuel system just with the upgraded line size.
Bosch 046 fuel pump which according to testing done at RC Engineering flowed quite a bit more than a bosch 040 and also more than a bosch 005.
Precision 600hp core with 2.5" piping
Snow Performance methanol injection with a 625cc nozzle spraying about 8" from the throttle body.
Clutch Masters FX400 6 puck ceramic clutch and Clutch Masters steel lightweight flywheel which is currently slipping a little bit depending on how I drive (think this was due to a jacked up resurface job done to the flywheel and pressure plate by a local shop after I replaced the disk from it being ruined from oil leaking out of bad rear main seal).

Think that is it.

Currently running 12.1 air/fuel at 26psi and around 12.7 at 28psi and 13.01 at 30psi with the said above fuel system using 93 and spraying 0*F washer fluid for the meth injection.

pm sent i jacked the shit out of this thread. sorry dan