This is a 06 A4 quattro B7 2.0 FSI motor on awd dynojet with the stg1 I just finished developing, stock exhaust, diverter valve update kit and that is about it. I will be doing the test pipe to see how that helps, then the exhaust and stg 3 development and then maybe the gt28rs and think that will be about where I put a stop to it for a while. Have done lots of gt3071wg turbos on the Saabs and love that too, but looking for a good compromise of spool and power. Have heard the k04 is not worth messing with
and only delivers a small gain, so think I will go right to the gt28rs disco potato :-)
Hmm, so if I do the math on the 3.2 dyno that means that at an ideal 255 CHP at sea level, if we take an average of 215 AWHP, the corrected driveline loss is 17%. If it was taken at elevation then the percent loss gets even smaller. Wow, maybe I should tell this to all the guys who go to the dyno with a BAT setup and try and apply a 25% correction factor because they're butthurt about not getting the numbers that they wanted. But ahh, but what do I know.
I see no matter where you go, the ol Sae elevation argument is always there and its almost always from people that live at sea-level and go off theory. I do live at elevation and have dyno after dyno after dyno to compare real world data and have over 10 dyno sheets showing almost identical numbers in sae in Denver and at Sea-level and I have had this argument on other forums for years. I don't want to have that argument here, will just say compared it to other name brand tunes and the numbers were right in the ballpark with the best, one was higher by 3bhp and one was lower by 2bhp and one was exactly the same.
From some of my latest test, sea-level sae car with the same tune made 11bhp more than the sae numbers at elevation, the smaller turbos just cannot make the same boost and or airmass at elevation, they have to work harder to make the same power, they make more heat and the stock ic is less efficient and then the dynamic llosses and the heat dissipation and the list goes on and on and there are many variables that you do not normally thing of when running a car at elevation. I like to look at the end result and compare to other cars on the same brand of dyno at lower elevation and draw some conclusions from that.
As you probably know, dynos can read different too, its only a guide :-)
The drive-train loss can also be argued, many are using 21% and many of the top name brand dynos posted here are also using over 20%, so what is the real number? Only an engine dyno would tell you exactly what the loss is, so the only fair thing to do is to use the same loss that other tuners use, even if the numbers are not dead on accurate.
Will be testing the cat test pipe soon to see what kind of gains are there and it also looks like my maf may be bad.
I put a Cat Test pipe on the 06 A4 Quattro and put it back on the dyno after I tuned it again. I held the torque back a little down low and it seemed to help it run much stronger up top and it really takes off at 4k and pulls hard up top on the road, will probably lean it out just a little bit past 6k. Put down 235whp and 270wtrq, that would be 290bhp and 335 ft-lbs with AWD 20% drive train loss. It feels very strong and it handles so much better than the Saabs I usually tune :-) Its a rocket ship now. Next step will be front mount and probably right to the disco potato :-)
Just had a Unitronic Stage 1+ tune done at Swift Performance Automotive in Norwich, CT. Temps were in the 40s. 93 octane fuel. Dyno was a Dyno Dynamics.
Stock A4 B7 2.0T auto dyno'ed stock at 175 whp and 175 wtq. We were surprised to see these numbers, especially with the car at 69,000 miles.
Stage 1+ dyno'ed at 177 whp and 216 wtq, which I felt were low, but the torque and horsepower gains were +46wtq and +31whp respectively, right where I can use them. Tapering off above 5000 rpm was attributed to possible carbon buildup on the intake valves. Also, the tiptronic forced us to dyno in 3rd gear.
The car pulls much harder than stock, and acceleration on the highway is very quick. I'm looking into cleaning the intake valves and getting an intake or exhaust. I'm pleased with the mod, even if the numbers aren't dramatic...
A little disappointed in Unitronic lately. What exactly is 1+, as opposed to just 1? Don't worry about an intake at all, exhaust is all you need to go stage 2. Have you gotten a boost gauge yet?
Wow, really awesome! So what mods besides tuning were on that car when you made 235 whp? I like that number, guessing there has to be exhaust. See, I have amazing numbers for stage 2, I mean, I put down bigger numbers than the APR 2+ dyno above, and my torque spike is awesome. I love it. But your tune is the first (I'm guessing on this) "Stage 2" car I have ever seen with more HP than mine. Granted, they were all different dynos. Who cares. Just go with it.
The 1+ tune is for 93 octane gas. Here in Massachusetts it's difficult to find 91 gas, so I've been using 93 since I bought the car. I figured for an extra $50 (over stage 1) I might as well get tuned for the higher octane fuel I'm using anyway.
I do not have a boost gauge - I'm trying to keep it as stealth as possible in case I need to go back to the dealer (their intake valve cleaning was about $300 less than the speed shop). Would you recommend - if so, what's the best place for it?
Here are all three of my runs- if you noticed my car never boosted past 15.4 or so psi at all. This is because of the timing issues I am having from unitronics software.
godspeed fmic, bsh pcv stg1, custom exhaust, test pipe, cai,
Btw, I guess photobucket does not want to rotate the damn imagines even though I told it to and saved it 10 Fing times!!!!!! F photobucket piece of shit site!!!!
Btw, I guess photobucket does not want to rotate the damn imagines even though I told it to and saved it 10 Fing times!!!!!! F photobucket piece of shit site!!!!
Your doing it wrong! :D Drew where them graphs at -_-
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