This is just the fab process, not the finished product homie!
Quick fab pic, might not post another pic till downpipe is finished; manifold has been done.
Very nice Max, awesome.
On a completely different note, I got the downpipes on Wed. Thanks again for the help and the fab work is amazing. Its a shame that you can't see them when they are on the car.
This is just the fab process, not the finished product homie!
Quick fab pic, might not post another pic till downpipe is finished; manifold has been done.
Took a tour of the facilities tonight when I came to pickup my car post 3" dp install , and I must say, you do have quite the office! I love watching this car progess.
you should go with the oem theme and use 1.8t aeb intake runners and a sheet metal (or machined, since you guys are ballers @ 034) ... use BEL engine valve covers that use new coils, 3.0L crank from a 3.0L, the ultimate OEM mashup!!!
The RS4 manifold flows a lot already and I'm not concerned with adding any extra plenum volume over that, since I need some space in the valley for some stuff.
Definitely have wanted to produce a sheet metal or some other type of aftermarket manifold, but the RS4 manifolds have become easier to get ahold of. About the only disadvantage I find with them is the throttle body bolt pattern, but I had about 3 RS4 throttle bodies sitting right here so they aren't that hard to get for cheap either.
Things are being delayed right now, hopefully they get back on track. I'm just itching to pull my motor.
Of course, I think I mentioned before...but right before going single turbo my GT28R's decide to just start working awesome. Car is hauling ass, running really well, so ironic.
Motor is in process of being pulled, GT's are sold, just trying to find some time in the schedule to finish the downpipe. It is a multi radii DP so it's going to take some time.
About to buy an intercooler. I'm itchin for the downpipe to get finished because then I can fabricate all the charge piping and stuff myself; the downpipe is beyond my capabilities.
Here is another teaser pic from awhile back. One of the prototypes. Enjoy.
Is that thin-wall tubing or pipe? Any concerns about durability if it's tube since I'd expect a lot of stress even with that bellows? BTW, if you plan to make one with a T4 flange and want a beta tester let me know. I keep on getting sidetracked with other projects, but see a light at the end of the tunnel to start fabbing on mine and if a hot-side was ready made I'd most likely buy it instead of building.
Chris Sanders
01 Noggy S4
00 BB S4
1993 RX7 w LS1/T56
Going to have my heads checked over, got a bit of oil coming down some valve stems, don't like it. Figure since the motor is out, why not. Also going to install some Supertech high rate valve springs and ti retainers if they need some guides redone, because I only put in new valves and didn't do the full shabang.
Soon as they are back from the machine shop, it will be time to fabricate the charge piping.
Intercooler is a Precision Turbo FMIC, 2.75" in/out, 24x10.5x3 core, giving it a shot.
max, not sure if this was covered or not but do you guys plan on making a twinscroll version of the headers?
No plans of a twin scroll at the moment; the v-band housing should work well with our displacement and budget / design constraints. This won't be the first 2.7t in the world with a 6262 turbo, and the spool characteristics we've seen so far are nice.
That downpipe is going to look massive against those tiny 2.25 true dual catback pipes that it is going to split and neck down to for some people (like my UUC). Thanks for the updates Max!
ehhh i know theres not a lot of room, but that much heat so close to the head, and the manifold merge pipe back there .... im interested to see how all the stuff is dealt with
ps hardline, clutch slave cyl, heater core hoses, wiring to o2, wiring to tranny plugs, ports on the back of the intake manifold, spider hose, fuel ....
a single turbo car built by someone recently literally went up in flames - i assume b/c of lack of provisions to deal with this issue. this is the single biggest obstacle to running single turbo IMO
ehhh i know theres not a lot of room, but that much heat so close to the head, and the manifold merge pipe back there .... im interested to see how all the stuff is dealt with
ps hardline, clutch slave cyl, heater core hoses, wiring to o2, wiring to tranny plugs, ports on the back of the intake manifold, spider hose, fuel ....
a single turbo car built by someone recently literally went up in flames - i assume b/c of lack of provisions to deal with this issue. this is the single biggest obstacle to running single turbo IMO
Your concerns are indeed valid, but that is one of the big advantages of purchasing something like this from a company like us, instead of going at it completely on your own. R&D!
However, a fair amount of the things you mentioned either are not required to relocate or unnecessary to relocate, or they would be included in the kit. I've made several references to the new PS hardline, a low profile VVT connector, that will be offered with the turbo setup, etc.
It has also been pointed out, both here and in the teaser thread in Chatterbox, that this obviously is going to take more initial time and work then installing an Eliminator style kit. The benefit is easier maintenance in the future and much lower cost of replacement parts, etc, so long as you are willing to cut and trim a few things with a grinder, move some things around, but basically do things that have to be done anyways if you were going with a 2868 or 2871 or custom twin kit.
For reference, a well coated or wrapped downpipe and manifold has relatively little heat compared to what you might think in that small area. It is not unheard of to be able to set one's hand on a well maintained coated downpipe right after driving, but of course it is an area of focus for us as reliability is a large goal and concern, hence the requirement of a new coolant reservoir and such. That being said, the stock S4's catalytic converters and turbos (heat shields or not) produce an incredible amount of heat, and I think you'd be quite surprised at the difference you will find in engine bay temps.
This isn't being touted as a road racing setup, as the FMIC is an indication of. Anyone who is interested in road racing or doing 60 minute long autobahn runs @ 175mph should be on K04s or RS6 turbos since they've been proven to be the most reliable and no one needs 600whp on a road course. For daily driving, highway pulls, and dyno shows, the single turbo kit and its associated additional hurdles should be very easy to deal with.
Some fiberglass sheathing here, heat wrap there, heat shield over there, ceramic coating on some key components, and you've got less engine bay heat then a factory car. And yes, I'm very aware of Das General's car, and there will be standard recommendations such as upgrading to a stainless clutch line kit.
However, just remember that there really isn't anything additionally exposed with a single turbo compared to a twin turbo setup. You are just as likely to pop a slave line and spray fluid on your normal 3" downpipes, as you are on a single 3.5" downpipe. The only thing that comes in close contact is the power steering hardline, hence the replacement of it with a new custom 034 unit.
I see very little additional risk of installing a single turbo designed for this car, versus installing a high powered twin turbo setup!
Max is there a reason why you chose to run the down pipe on the left side of the engine bay rather than the right? Seams like the left side might have been a better choice since there might be more clearance. I could be completely wrong, but I was curious.
Max is there a reason why you chose to run the down pipe on the left side of the engine bay rather than the right? Seams like the left side might have been a better choice since there might be more clearance. I could be completely wrong, but I was curious.
Jason
To maintain as much of the factory provisions as we could, such as utilizing the stock airbox location, etc. Basically, the compressor inlet had to be on the passenger side, as there is drastically more room on the passenger side of the engine bay for the air filter and MAF housing, etc. The coolant reservoir and factory fuel rail and ABS on the driverside make it very difficult to fit a cone filter over there and obviously, a stock airbox would be impossible.
There are other items as well, such as the cam chain tensioner (much more finicky then a Cam Position Sensor), etc, that would cause more of an issue rather then just using a new coolant reservoir and being done!
To maintain as much of the factory provisions as we could, such as utilizing the stock airbox location, etc. Basically, the compressor inlet had to be on the passenger side, as there is drastically more room on the passenger side of the engine bay for the air filter and MAF housing, etc. The coolant reservoir and factory fuel rail and ABS on the driverside make it very difficult to fit a cone filter over there and obviously, a stock airbox would be impossible.
There are other items as well, such as the cam chain tensioner (much more finicky then a Cam Position Sensor), etc, that would cause more of an issue rather then just using a new coolant reservoir and being done!
Ahh I didn't even think of that. I was thinking more along the lines this would use a standalone where the factory MAF wouldn't need to be used and you could just put a filter on the inlet of the turbo.
That makes sense though, and is very cool if you can use the stock MAF and such.
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