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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 21 2005
    AZ Member #
    6192
    Location
    Alpharetta, GA

    Coolant leak from turbo line, is it really neccesary to pull the motor?

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    I tried searching on this, but found little information.

    So I have a leak from the turbo coolant line at the junction between where it becomes a metal and rubber hose. The shop I dropped the car off at is telling me the only way to get to that hose is to pull the motor. They said they called the dealership and they confirmed this process. Is this really the only way to get to the line?

    Also if it is, while the motor is out, is there anything else I should consider replacing now, spending so much on labor JUST to replace a hose just aggravates me.

    Car is an 02 2.7T allroad

    Thanks
    -Jordan
    2001.5 VW Passat 1.8T Rest in Pieces
    2002 Audi allroad 2.7T Sold
    2006 Audi A6 4.2 S-Line SOUTHRNFRESH Feature

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings jeffp477's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 09 2009
    AZ Member #
    43521
    My Garage
    1983 Toyota Supra MKII/ 2000 Audi C5 A6 2.7t Q/2003 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4.7
    Location
    temecula,ca(socal)

    ^^turbo coolant line? are you leaking coolant ? or oil? i know 2.7t's are tend to leak coolant cause of the secondary aux pump, that leaks down on the back and drips to the exhaust manifold, turbos, and anything under it.
    -jeff-
    c5union
    SoCal
    DIY Audi
    Audi Tech and tips
    psn:jeffp0477 gt5 whore

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 21 2005
    AZ Member #
    6192
    Location
    Alpharetta, GA

    I am leaking coolant, and unfortunately it is not the aux pump which is pretty common. It is the line that runs along the rear firewall to the turbo. It is rubber on the coolant side and metal braided on the turbo side to a banjo bolt on the turbo, I believe. It is apparently leaking where the rubber and metal meet.
    2001.5 VW Passat 1.8T Rest in Pieces
    2002 Audi allroad 2.7T Sold
    2006 Audi A6 4.2 S-Line SOUTHRNFRESH Feature

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings jeffp477's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 09 2009
    AZ Member #
    43521
    My Garage
    1983 Toyota Supra MKII/ 2000 Audi C5 A6 2.7t Q/2003 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4.7
    Location
    temecula,ca(socal)

    well its gonna be really hard to fix that without removing the engine, cause there's no space to work with, you might be able to really squeeze in there and take it out, but your gonna have a pita putting things back properly. as far as parts, check everything that is leaking, check turbo's, oil lines, cam plugs. i might be forgetting something else..
    -jeff-
    c5union
    SoCal
    DIY Audi
    Audi Tech and tips
    psn:jeffp0477 gt5 whore

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings jeffp477's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 09 2009
    AZ Member #
    43521
    My Garage
    1983 Toyota Supra MKII/ 2000 Audi C5 A6 2.7t Q/2003 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4.7
    Location
    temecula,ca(socal)

    can you see it here?
    -jeff-
    c5union
    SoCal
    DIY Audi
    Audi Tech and tips
    psn:jeffp0477 gt5 whore

  6. #6
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Sep 19 2012
    AZ Member #
    100758
    Location
    hawaii

    i have the same issue with my 03 allroad. #16 in the diagram, turbo coolant return line. i need to get the damn thing out but cant seem to get to it. any writeups or DIYs would be useful. i dont have the bentley manual, so im doing this blind...

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 05 2007
    AZ Member #
    23135
    Location
    Hong Kong

    Any update to this? Omg I ran into the exact same problem. Really need to pull the motor to get this coolant line out? I am exhausted.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 18 2007
    AZ Member #
    17386
    Location
    ny
    Items for Sale

    Yeah those lines are a pain even with the motor out. Good luck!!
    6 Speed--EPL--034--SPEC--ER--AquaMist--Forge--RS4--RS6--K04 --RNS-E--DTS--PSS9's
    SOLD

    Greg
    C5UNION

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 11 2009
    AZ Member #
    47633
    Location
    NE

    I replaced #16 on my car without pulling an engine.... it was a pita but doable. A set of walmart short metric 12 point wrenches is your friend as well as set of offset ones as well. And you might have to custom bend them to access stuff... And remove anything that might be in your way around there, starting with heat shield, egt sensor, etc.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 05 2007
    AZ Member #
    23135
    Location
    Hong Kong

    Re: Coolant leak from turbo line, is it really neccesary to pull the motor?

    Wow! Thanks for the reply. Any idea of how much this job should be charged if i take it to a shop to replace #16 ?

    Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 11 2009
    AZ Member #
    47633
    Location
    NE

    if it is a competent shop that is willing to not go by the books, I would say 3-4h of labor. I replaced my hose in about 2h, 1h of it swearing like a sailor. Coming to think of it, this wrench (I think it was 19mm) was instrumental in removing the bolt:



    I think I "skinned" the wrench my grinding material off where needed to fit in hole and allow to turn. There is very little space in there but you can access the bolt and have a space to turn one teeth at a time with offset wrench. The other side is just a simple spring clamp securing the hose on water hard pipe nipple.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 05 2007
    AZ Member #
    23135
    Location
    Hong Kong

    Quote Originally Posted by julex View Post
    if it is a competent shop that is willing to not go by the books, I would say 3-4h of labor. I replaced my hose in about 2h, 1h of it swearing like a sailor. Coming to think of it, this wrench (I think it was 19mm) was instrumental in removing the bolt:



    I think I "skinned" the wrench my grinding material off where needed to fit in hole and allow to turn. There is very little space in there but you can access the bolt and have a space to turn one teeth at a time with offset wrench. The other side is just a simple spring clamp securing the hose on water hard pipe nipple.
    Thanks for your reply Julex:

    I think I need to start to do it myself since my garage keep telling me they need to pull engine.
    So, you do it from the top or from the bottom to get the chance to touch those bolts?

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 11 2009
    AZ Member #
    47633
    Location
    NE

    Quote Originally Posted by blitzjza80 View Post
    Thanks for your reply Julex:

    I think I need to start to do it myself since my garage keep telling me they need to pull engine.
    So, you do it from the top or from the bottom to get the chance to touch those bolts?
    Top. remove intake stuff, egt and o2 sensor, push the heat shields as far down as possible so that they don't interfere and have fun... since you'll be essentially lying on the engine for quite a while, make sure to put several blankets on it for your comfort. And remember... I managed so it is doable just make sure you have an angle grinder available so that you can skinny down the wrench as needed. As soon as you start it, maybe 1-2 turns up, you should be able to rotate with fingers. This speeds up the process a lot.

    It might even be possible to access it with normal socket but it would have to be definitely sacrificed and ground down so that outer diameter is less than what they come as


    Cheers.

  14. #14
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Nov 07 2013
    AZ Member #
    128909
    Location
    yorba linda, ca

    I know this is an old thread, but I would like to contribute to the information posted about the repair. Recently a customer came into the shop complaining of a sizable coolant leak from the front of the car. Pressured tested it and found coolant pouring from the valley under the intake. Upon closer inspection we found the o-ring for the heater hose leaking at the front of the valley on the driver's side. The customer also had coolant seeping from the two turbo coolant hoses at the joint where rubber meets steel line. The book says 17hours to pull the motor + parts, but that wasn't in the customer's budget. So after reading this post we decided to go for it and replace the lines from the top without pulling the motor. With the intake off and the coolant pipe at the back of the motor running from head to head pushed back there was very little room if any at all to replace the lines. With the customer's permission we ground the crimp fitting off, with a small die-grinder and small carbide bit, and replaced just the hose with high temp silicone and FI clamps, there were barbs present on the metal lines so the clamps worked well. We also replaced all 5 o-rings and buttoned her up. Pressure tested the system after all connections had been made and the system held pressure for 10+ minutes. Vacuum filled the system, checked for leaks and shipped the car. Customer was very appreciative that we attempted the repair while trying to save a little money in the process. I know, windy response but I just wanted to let people know that the repair was possible without pulling the motor or attempting to remove the lines at the turbos.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 11 2009
    AZ Member #
    47633
    Location
    NE

    Quote Originally Posted by sierraca37 View Post
    I know this is an old thread, but I would like to contribute to the information posted about the repair. Recently a customer came into the shop complaining of a sizable coolant leak from the front of the car. Pressured tested it and found coolant pouring from the valley under the intake. Upon closer inspection we found the o-ring for the heater hose leaking at the front of the valley on the driver's side. The customer also had coolant seeping from the two turbo coolant hoses at the joint where rubber meets steel line. The book says 17hours to pull the motor + parts, but that wasn't in the customer's budget. So after reading this post we decided to go for it and replace the lines from the top without pulling the motor. With the intake off and the coolant pipe at the back of the motor running from head to head pushed back there was very little room if any at all to replace the lines. With the customer's permission we ground the crimp fitting off, with a small die-grinder and small carbide bit, and replaced just the hose with high temp silicone and FI clamps, there were barbs present on the metal lines so the clamps worked well. We also replaced all 5 o-rings and buttoned her up. Pressure tested the system after all connections had been made and the system held pressure for 10+ minutes. Vacuum filled the system, checked for leaks and shipped the car. Customer was very appreciative that we attempted the repair while trying to save a little money in the process. I know, windy response but I just wanted to let people know that the repair was possible without pulling the motor or attempting to remove the lines at the turbos.
    Good to know. Having barbs inside the hose certainly makes the repair much easier and definitely cheaper as one only needs a piece of hose and some good clamp instead of $100+ piece of hardware. Good stuff.



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