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  1. #1
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Spring Maintenance

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    The time has finally come for some much deserved spring maintenance on the S4. I figure I would post a bit of progress because I enjoy working on my car, sharing some pictures and I already have some questions.

    The car started the typical intake flapper rattle last year which kind of spawned all of this. As part of removing the intake, I am taking the opportunity to install JHM spacers, oil retaining valves, oil filter housing seals, valve cover gaskets, PCV, powder coat some things, spark plugs, clean, JHM 6 rib auto tensioner conversion, et cetera.

    The spread of parts :)


    First time ripping the bumper/rad off myself, pretty straight forward:


    I take it these are the revised coil packs? 077 905 115 T


    Looks like the VC gaskets were leaking since the show room


    Theres a clean engine under there somewhere... I'll find it


    Oil filter housing wasnt leaking, that helps with the cleaning:


    Once I removed the intake there was some build up of sand around the intake ports, should I be concerned if anything fell in?


    I obliterated this plastic hose:

    Whats are you guys doing to replace these? They are kind of bent into a specific shape, are these a dealer only thing? Or is it just a typical tubing that forms to a shape over time due to being forced into a position and being heat cycled?

    As it stands today:


    This is my first time really digging into a European car, I am much more apt to America nuts and bolts, where a 1/2" ratchet can be used for everything. This thing has a lot of tight spots! I seriously need to revise my tool arsenal. I made out okay for the most part but will need some nice torx and triple square bits. I was overwhelmed at first, but surprisingly this thing is rather easy to wrench on.

    So far loving every minute of it!
    Last edited by Gosser; 05-03-2015 at 05:49 AM.
    2004 S4

  2. #2
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Nice work sir! But uhhhhh...what's with the skill saw?

  3. #3
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VR6OhMy View Post
    Nice work sir! But uhhhhh...what's with the skill saw?
    Impromptu PCV hose cutter. ;)
    And thanks!

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings
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    i'm about to do the same thing but only to hunt down a leak in the front.
    My 2004 S4 B6 Youtube Videos <-- Click me!
    My Ruroc RG-1 ICE Helmet Review <-- Click me!
    My 2002 E46 M3 <-- No videos yet.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    It might be your oil filter housing 8-ring:

    Everyone that digs down this far seems to have this one fail, which creates a leak all down the face of your engine.

    Looks like my oil check valves are still doing their thing :)
    Last edited by Gosser; 05-04-2015 at 03:34 AM.
    2004 S4

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Mr. Corey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gosser View Post

    Once I removed the intake there was some build up of sand around the intake ports, should I be concerned if anything fell in?


    I used a little vacuum with a straw at the end to get in and clean any debris that might of fell in.
    B6 Nogaro with lots of mods

    Photography Website www.coreymaywalt.com

  7. #7
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Thanks Corey, I'll definitely be doing that, but worried about grains making it past the valves... Especially with the walls being so sensitive from the sounds of it.

    Valve covers stripped and ready for some color :)

    The original coating was flaking off just looking at it:

    IM separated, and ready for some color too:


    I noticed some gasket material here, are people just using RTV sealant to reseal?

    I know RTV is used to reseal the halves, but is there another product to use in this thin area?

    2004 S4

  8. #8
    Active Member Two Rings
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    I just put mine back together and used rtv across the entire bottom, basically connecting the bottom of the rubber piece. Should be sealed up nicely.

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings jakeoboy67's Avatar
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    Man , you're really making me nervous about my valve covers flaking that badly on the inside

  10. #10
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    I was thinking the same thing vr6.
    As for the valve cover coating, I'm surprised this wasn't recalled, and plastic covers swapped in. But maybe they think it won't do much of any damage if left as is.

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings jakeoboy67's Avatar
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    oil pump pickup strainers don't really like these flakes ,
    I wanna get a borescope down in there and check the screen, if possible(just for peace of mind)

  12. #12
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Your right jakeo... and after removing my valley cover, this made me think even more about the pick up tube:


    This is also closer oil retention valves which I've seen get jammed once with VC coating. Hopefully the majority of this is in the filter or in a oil drain bucket. Its all pretty flaky, more so than the valve cover coatings. Which brings me to my next update.

    I got a call from the powder coating shop this afternoon, stating that the covers are all chewed up, pitted and falling apart after being blasted! I was worried and shot out there to review what was going on. I also verified before proceeding what media they used, which is 120 grit aluminum oxide at 40psi. They assured me it was plenty safe for magnesium. When I got there it wasnt as bad as I expected:







    The OEM coating is rock solid, its the magnesium that seems to be spalling/delaminating from its self which creates the bubbling we all experience. Some locations you can pick the magnesium off with your finger... He was worried the outside was going to look like shit, but he'll try to sand it smooth, and the textured finish should hide most of it. I'll also take a dremel to anything on the inside that looks loose and grind it out. Hopefully they are ready this Friday!
    The shop foreman said he has never seen anything like this for valve covers, no wonder they switched to plastic.

    Off to do some more cleaning
    2004 S4

  13. #13
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Found out where some of the coating on the oil valley gasket was residing:

    I am wondering how easy it is to remove the oil pan in the current service position I have the vehicle in, just to check that screen.

    Before and after cleaning:



    One of the three main ingredients required for owning this vehicle:


    Next up, cleaning the front of the engine
    2004 S4

  14. #14
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Made some good progress today. Valve covers werent painted in the wrinkle finish, instead they used a wet paint instead of powder... Apparently they were afraid the heat would cause more spalling. Caught me off guard, and I would have risked it, but they still look nice.



    Intake done in a bright silver:

    Almost there, another day and it should all be back together. Cant wait!
    2004 S4

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Wow very nice Grosser. That looks like a ton of work. I know where I'm going for my spring maintenance, Ottawa baby lol.
    Black B7 S4 6MT

  16. #16
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Thanks! It is certainly an undertaking. Most time consuming part is cleaning, here is a quick photoshop before/after

    I still have some more to do, but the majority of it is done.
    2004 S4

  17. #17
    Senior Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    What did you use to clean the front of the engine?

  18. #18
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Scraped with wire brush to remove heavy grim.
    Hit it with spray nine, let it soak for 5 minutes, used a plastic bristle brush and mushed around all the grease.
    Then hit it with brake cleaner, it came out clean as a whistle. Wipe with paper towel.
    Make sure you start top down. For all the little crevasses, I used Q-tips to loosen the grease then blast it with brake cleaner and move on.
    I went through two cans of brake cleaner so far. All to be covered up and out of sight...

  19. #19
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Finished up with this the other night. Had a bit of a scare when the low oil pressure light came on. Shut it down and came here. Consulted with Slickfix because he seemed to have the same issue. He mentioned getting a oil pressure test kit, and thats when it clicked, I never plugged the oil pressure switch back in... There were a few sleepless nights because of it, but now all is good.

    Took it out last night to stretch its legs after a month of being under the knife and its buttery smooth. I dont know if it is the LWCP or the snub mount or the combination, but rev matching is effortless now. Start up rattle is still there, as I suspected, given that the old valves were still retaining oil, even after a week of the car sitting.

    Happy to be back on the road again. Just need to sort out why the new depo have a dipped headlight warning light...
    2004 S4

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Glad to hear Gosser.

    After putting in my snub my 1st to 2nd shift is definitely so much better. I still have my blips here and there, and other gears still isn't 100% smooth, still seem to have some "rough shifts".

    I wish I did some more research before my maintenance in April, I probably would have went with the LWCP as well.

    Do you got pics of it all put back together? (If you attached some above I can't see them on this PC and I'll have to check later)
    Black B7 S4 6MT

  21. #21
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    I always thought that the slight clunking from shifting was my doing. It feels like it should now.

    As for complete pictures, I was waiting to get a wash, and managed to do so this weekend. Here are some befores and afters:





    Really digging the e-code depos as well:



    I spent way to long on this project, I missed driving it and I cannot get enough. If only my neighbourhood wasnt under construction, then I'd be able to keep it this clean for more than a day.
    2004 S4

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Looks great man, good job!
    Black B7 S4 6MT

  23. #23
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Thanks Danky.

    I figured after a few pms, I might as well update my thread to help keep the information available.

    For cleaning products, here is what I sourced:

    Key products are the brake cleaner and the plastic wire brush on the left.
    The primary grim was removed with a steel wire brush. Then for the secondary layer I used a combination of brake cleaner pictured and the left plastic brush. I think it was a rim detailer brusher or something, but the brushes are on a wire which were relatively stiff allowing it to jam into tight spots. The mixture of brake cleaner and scrubbing turned it all into a black mush which was enough to loosen everything and then one quick pass with the brake cleaner blew it away.

    I just noticed that I only have the french label of the three bottle pictured! hah all brake cleaner is the same right?

    Here are some pictures of the intake manifold being resealed with RTV Ultra-black after installing the lower half and torquing it down:

    I tossed in a thin bead along the inner port, there was something there before(seen pictured in previous post). I could not locate any information on this if it was supposed to be sealed here or not, but it could not hurt I figured.


    Keep in mind if you install the JHM intake spacers, that you NEED to remove the rear driver side engine hoist bracket, permanently. The top half of the IM will not seat with this in the way and you will bugger up all your RTV sealant if you dont take it out.

    I also cheated the JHM throttle body coolant by pass. Instead of installing the supplied coupler barb as such:

    You can cut the hose leaving the passenger side coolant hard pipe and install it directly to the Y check valve:

    You save all this this misc hose running around for nothing, but can not go back to stock as easily.

    Does absolutely nothing, but I prefer less connections at all time and have no intentions of going back to stock.

    So far I have close to 3000km and enjoying every second.
    Last edited by Gosser; 06-23-2015 at 05:11 PM.
    2004 S4

  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Wow, that's great work on the coolant line delete

    I'd like to do the same thing, but potentially just replace the hose instead of cutting the oem one. It looks like you cut the hose which led to the front of the throttle body, and tapped it straight into the y-connector just below your vin# in the picture above... right?

  25. #25
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VroomTT View Post
    Wow, that's great work on the coolant line delete

    I'd like to do the same thing, but potentially just replace the hose instead of cutting the oem one. It looks like you cut the hose which led to the front of the throttle body, and tapped it straight into the y-connector just below your vin# in the picture above... right?
    You got it. I was thinking the same thing as you were, by replacing the hose with a generic straight hose, but the other end is unaccessible.
    See part number#7

    Which connects to the rear coolant hard pipe, its pretty tight between the firewall and that pipe. I cut that one in half and connect it directly to the Y fitting, which is not shown in the diagram above for some reason but is in the next diagram.
    Part number#40 is essentially what you are making:


    Despite the source saying the 2nd diagram was a 4.2 S4 coolant diagram, its somewhat inaccurate. unless warmer regioned S4s are like this and colder regioned S4s are not. I think you know what you are doing anyways.
    Last edited by Gosser; 06-24-2015 at 06:35 AM.
    2004 S4

  26. #26
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Thanks for the info! I agree, those diagrams seem like neither is exactly like our S4's.

    BTW, where did you source these diagrams?

  27. #27
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    What was the mileage at the start of the rebuild?

  28. #28
    Established Member Two Rings DarrenOman's Avatar
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    Gosser, I live in the Middle East and have a GCC spec B6 S4 and have diagram layout #2. No TP pipe connections for pre-heat from the coolant system.

  29. #29
    Senior Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VroomTT View Post
    Thanks for the info! I agree, those diagrams seem like neither is exactly like our S4's.

    BTW, where did you source these diagrams?
    Those ones were from here:
    http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/
    There was another spot that I located some randomly, similar to above, but cannot seem to find it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Concavitor View Post
    What was the mileage at the start of the rebuild?
    93,900km/58,600miles

    Quote Originally Posted by DarrenOman View Post
    Gosser, I live in the Middle East and have a GCC spec B6 S4 and have diagram layout #2. No TP pipe connections for pre-heat from the coolant system.
    That makes sense given the seasonal temperature differences. Whats your 'winter' like over there? 5*C? The ones with the TP pre-heat is probably apart of a winter package or something.

    Here is a quick photoshop of what my OEM setup looked like, kind of the above two combined:

    Part#6 is completely removed from my system and #7 is the one I cut to tap into the Y.
    Last edited by Gosser; 06-24-2015 at 04:52 PM.
    2004 S4

  30. #30
    Established Member Two Rings DarrenOman's Avatar
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    Gosser, 5*C Hell no, thats way too cold. Winter is great although with the thinned out blood running through the veins, we do need to wear jeans and a hoodie. Winter temps are low 20's during the day and low teen's at night. Now can probably be compaired to Arizona, mid 40's in the day and high 30's at night. You do get used to it, but the hi humidity is tough for us and the AC's

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