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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
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    2005 B6 S4 A/C Compressor Issues

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    Hey Guys,
    I was wondering where I can find more info on these direct drive shaft compressor. I think mine is shot and dealer quoted something way more than expected. I know these are not cheap but I think I am still better off doing it myself. The part number they gave me is this 4F0260805AD. Please let me know if there is a good place to buy these and also if there is a nice write up on DIY. I am having a hard time finding anything.

    As always thanks in advance, your input is very much appriciated.

  2. #2
    Stage 3 Forum Advertiser Four Rings Tech/Sales@JHM's Avatar
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    What are the symptoms you're experiencing?

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings tatarin's Avatar
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    my good friends from KY... this is the car that the privious owner over filled the A/C system and it f'ed the internals of the compressor.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatarin View Post
    my good friends from KY... this is the car that the privious owner over filled the A/C system and it f'ed the internals of the compressor.

    RUSSSS find us a nice writeup on this compressor, we need to figure it out.

  5. #5
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    I think tatarin is right, but in addition to that I believe that the shaft has snapped as well. Still needs to be inspected.

  6. #6
    Stage 3 Forum Advertiser Four Rings jaybquick@JHM's Avatar
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    FYI - If your compressor failed you will have to flush the metal out of the condensor and the rest of the system.

    Usually when the compressors fail on these cars they shear the driveshaft as well. So if you go under the car and see it spinning and the front of the compressor is not then it is sheared and the compressor is bad. We have new ones available within a day that are in our online store here -> http://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/ca...h=21_56_61_247

    We can get you any A/C parts you need from hoses to o-rings as well. We can't get the parts available to us up in the store fast enough.

    We also have several used compressors and some used driveshafts as well. Contact us at sales@jhmotorsports.com for more info or call us at 209-968-0077.


    Thanks.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by audi05A8 View Post
    Hey Guys,
    I was wondering where I can find more info on these direct drive shaft compressor. I think mine is shot and dealer quoted something way more than expected. I know these are not cheap but I think I am still better off doing it myself. The part number they gave me is this 4F0260805AD. Please let me know if there is a good place to buy these and also if there is a nice write up on DIY. I am having a hard time finding anything.

    As always thanks in advance, your input is very much appriciated.
    The V8 AC compressors are always driven by the shaft in the back as the motor is turning and I just recently put one in under good will. All I can say is I wish the best of luck because the whole front clip (bumper and lock carrier) along with the driver's side engine mount and support bracket have to come off. I have pictures of the one that I did if you want to see and the shaft on that car was okay but the compressor was leaking from the back bad.

  8. #8
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Yeah I know it is going to bring pain but I have to do it. I am hunting for the parts now but please send any pics that you have.
    Thanks

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I hope that sums it up for the S4 owners with questions about doing the repair yourself. You can see the front of the AC compressor in between the vibration dampener and the frame rail opening on the driver's side and other side is the alternator. The alternator belt is the only belt on the engine and yes we do charge four hours to replace it because you can't even see it with the lock carrier in place.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Here is a more zoomed in picture with a red line around the compressor and it was taken with my cell phone so it is not great.

  11. #11
    Active Member Two Rings
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    I would say there goes my weekend, definitely the worst place for a compressor. I got some of the parts off and I just found out that the shaft in not broken. I guess I should troubleshoot first to determine if it is the compressor.
    Thanks for the pics

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    If the systems low the compressor wont kick on to preserve itself, take it somewhere, have the ac evac'd and weighed to see what was in there. Refill and use dye so you can find the leak

  13. #13
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    How do you separate the compressor from the drive shaft? I am little afraid to pull on it , dont know what thread it is.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings 05UltraSprt's Avatar
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    There are two 6-point nuts you have to put open-end wrenches on at the same time. On is 17mm (shaft side), the other is 19mm. Hold the shaft side wrench in place and turn the compressor side up. Once the shaft is separated from the compressor you can push it back (toward fire wall). That will enable you to wiggle the compressor out of the dumb-ass nest it's squeezed into.

    Edit: Do not turn the shaft side wrench, only the compressor side wrench.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Two Rings 05UltraSprt's Avatar
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    Instead of starting another thread, I figured I'd add to this one Keep all the A/C repair info in one place... Does anyone know what the proper Refrigerant Circuit Pressure is supposed to be?? VAGCOM -> 08-Auto HVAC -> Measuring Block 001. I just did the compressor this weekend and the system pressure seems high. If I leave the A/C on LO with max fan speed at idle, the pressure climbs up to 23 bar. If I'm driving it fluctuates from 7-12 bar.
    If anyone knows the answer, or if anyone would be willing to observe their own system via VAGCOM, I would really appreciate it.

    TIA

  16. #16
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by 05UltraSprt View Post
    There are two 6-point nuts you have to put open-end wrenches on at the same time. On is 17mm (shaft side), the other is 19mm. Hold the shaft side wrench in place and turn the compressor side up. Once the shaft is separated from the compressor you can push it back (toward fire wall). That will enable you to wiggle the compressor out of the dumb-ass nest it's squeezed into.

    Edit: Do not turn the shaft side wrench, only the compressor side wrench.
    You said the compressor bolt needs to be turned up to loosen which means to the right making it regular thread, but I have heard that it is reversed thread. Now I am stuck again and really have to know this before I make my headache even worse.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Two Rings 05UltraSprt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audi05A8 View Post
    You said the compressor bolt needs to be turned up to loosen which means to the right making it regular thread, but I have heard that it is reversed thread. Now I am stuck again and really have to know this before I make my headache even worse.
    Got it straight from my one day subscription to the Audi ErWin repair manual. I just finished the job this weekend myself. I would highly recommend getting yourself a subscription. $35 for a 24 hour period with print rights. Best investment you'll make while doing this job.

    https://www.erwin.audiusa.com/erwin/

    Please just do me one favor... If you do subscribe, please look up the high side pressure specification. I really don't want to blow up the system I spent so many hours repairing. My subscription expired before I had a chance to find that info and don't feel like paying for a third day (already subscribed Sat & Sun).

    Also, turning to the right to loosen is a reverse thread. Normal threads are lefty loosey, righty tighty! <--Edit: Although, now that I think about it, I can't remember which side has the male threads and which side has the female threads, so just ignore that last comment and carry on...
    Last edited by 05UltraSprt; 04-13-2010 at 12:06 PM.

  18. #18
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Yeah I got all confused on the thread part but it all makes sense now. I'll definitely subscribe tonight and let you know about the pressures. I want some free time so I can do some serious printing.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings handyvorb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 05UltraSprt View Post
    Instead of starting another thread, I figured I'd add to this one Keep all the A/C repair info in one place... Does anyone know what the proper Refrigerant Circuit Pressure is supposed to be?? VAGCOM -> 08-Auto HVAC -> Measuring Block 001. I just did the compressor this weekend and the system pressure seems high. If I leave the A/C on LO with max fan speed at idle, the pressure climbs up to 23 bar. If I'm driving it fluctuates from 7-12 bar.
    If anyone knows the answer, or if anyone would be willing to observe their own system via VAGCOM, I would really appreciate it.

    TIA
    2,6 bar to 29 bar is pressure within the permissible range (dependent upon compressor load and ambient temperature)

    A/C High Pressure Switch -F118- Switches off A/C compressor when there is excessive pressure in the refrigerant circuit (approximately 32 bar).

    With engine off, key on, the system pressure (read from high pressure sensor on MVB 1) should be 4,7 bar at 20*C and 5,6 bar at 25* and so on.

    Are you experiencing an issue? How long did you evacuate the system for?
    Joel Baldridge
    Stage 4 Audi Technician (Master Guild Certified)

  20. #20
    Senior Member Two Rings 05UltraSprt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by handyvorb View Post
    Are you experiencing an issue? How long did you evacuate the system for?
    No, everything seems to be working great. The only issue I had was with the high side system pressure. Based on the info you provided, it appears that what I was concerned about really isn't an issue at all. I did not fill the system to capacity with R134a because of the high pressure readings, but again, it appears I have nothing to be concerned about. It is my understanding that 29 bar (~420 psi at 15' above seal level) is much higher than most A/C systems high side pressure. From everything I have learned in the past and/or read recently, a good benchmark is 2.0 - 2.5 X ambient temp. It was about 70 when I was logging, so I was expecting something in the 175 psi range.

    The system was empty due to a faulty O-ring as well, so I didn't have to evacuate any existing R134a. I flushed all the lines & condenser then kept it under vacuum for about 45 min. After I shut the vacuum pump off, I let it sit for another half hour to confirm I had no other leaks.

    Thanks again for this information, I really appreciate it!

  21. #21
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Man what a headache with this AC. Now I am ready to charge the system with a new compressor but the ECON light will not turn off. I am thinking thati it could be the pressure switch and was wondering if I can jump it to get the compressor to kick on.
    Again thanks to everyone for their input I am one step away from having cold air again. At least I hope I am .

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings handyvorb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audi05A8 View Post
    Man what a headache with this AC. Now I am ready to charge the system with a new compressor but the ECON light will not turn off. I am thinking thati it could be the pressure switch and was wondering if I can jump it to get the compressor to kick on.
    Again thanks to everyone for their input I am one step away from having cold air again. At least I hope I am .
    No this means the A/C compressor is shut off to protect it for a reason. One possibility is that the refridgerant is too low, but you need to check the A/C Electronics MVB 1 Field 1 with a VAG-COM to see the compressor shut off reason.
    Joel Baldridge
    Stage 4 Audi Technician (Master Guild Certified)

  23. #23
    Active Member Two Rings
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    That sounds like what it is doing it is not comming on b/c of the pressure but even though i tried to add refrigerant it did not kick in . I'll do the vag com tonight and see what it spits out. I assume the pressure needs to be around 35-40 for it to engage. It also doesn't help that I have an old set of manifold gages that I dont trust any more, so I'll just get a new set today.

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings SquiddyB6S4's Avatar
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    If the refrigerant system is low enough on refrigerant, the ECON light will stay lit, and the compressor will refuse to engage. This is, as stated, a self-preservation control. PLEASE be sure to not only evacuate the system REALLY well, but also inject the proper amount and type of oil into the compressor - IT DOES NOT COME LUBRICATED.
    For the record, my best friend just did mine not too long ago, as he's a God of Audiness. I picked up a brand new OEM compressor itself for under $700, shipped to my door, so please don't pay the stealership what they ask. I also got the drier for I think it was $45. Oh, and don't forget to replace the little filter tube, otherwise you're going to have metal shavings in your brand new compressor.

    As stated previously, it's a bitch of a job, but if you're *very* comfortable working on your car, you'll get it eventually. For the record, the drive shaft had to be torched off of my compressor. And just as designed, when the compressor failed, the safety input connection snapped. You'll know what I mean when you take apart your old one.
    -Jason
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  25. #25
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    Mine is off the car and it is apart. After I took it off I just had to take a look inside and yes it was in pieces. Few of the pistons survived and others were shreded to pieces. Now I can see that the high pressure side is pretty dirty were the low side still looks fine which tells me that the orifice tube and drier definitelly need to be changed. I am getting ready to flush the system tonight.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings SquiddyB6S4's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're good to go then. Just make sure that when you vacuum the system, you really suck the goat balls off of it. You want to get every single drop of moisture out, since moisture will not only decrease cooling performance (make the air out of your vents less cold), but also reduce the life of the compressor.
    Oh, and another reminder to inject the compressor oil, which can be had from Audi. You're going to be REALLY pissed if you have to do this job again so soon. My friend/service tech did this before he buttoned the whole thing up, to make sure it had its oil all inside the compressor for the first time it spun.
    -Jason
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  27. #27
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    Yeah it would suck to have to do it all over again. I got everything flushed and cleaned and the compressor is oiled as well. I got a new orifice tube and drier so it has to be all set and ready to cool. Would you agree if the compressor does not come on lets say about 40psi on low pressure side that would mean that the switch has to be bad?At that pressure it has to kick in but maybe cycle more frequently if it doesn't it could only be the switch. That is the only thing I did not buy , I hope it is good. Anyone know how to jump that thing just to see if the compressor would come ON or is that a bad idea?

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings SquiddyB6S4's Avatar
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    I agree with your logic, but of all of the Audi techs I've talked to before, during, and after my A/C compressor replacement, nobody ever hinted that the switch might be prone to failure, or even common at all. In fact, not a one of them even mentioned that the switch be checked; it just never came up. I think it's just unlikely that the switch and the compressor both failed at the same time. So unless you're really having problems with it after you charge it up, I would assume that it's good. Even the local Audi dealership's shop foreman didn't mention the switch to me.

    I mean, we're talking about a pressure switch here. The compressor has its own internal gizmo for actuation, so you already have a new one of those by default. I'm sure there are several relays and computers that are involved in A/C actuation, including the fan computer (since the compressor won't engage, or won't engage for long if the fan is malfunctioning), and a whole host of them could have problems (in classic Audi over-complex style ), but how about just crossing that bridge if you come to it?

    By the way, good job on doing this yourself. It's daunting, and not everyone would even attempt it
    -Jason
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  29. #29
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Well the idea of a faulty switch just came from reading some fo the AC related threads, some people replaced them and I had no idea if that was a common issues. But here is what happend this morning. I flushed the system cleaned it and pulled the vacuum and also left the system for about 30min under vacuum to see if there are any leaks and fortunetly it held vacuum and no leaks were detected. As mentioned before I've installed a brand new drier and orifice tube as well. Now finally I've tried to charge the system and it will not take charge. The car is running, AC is on max and even now the ECON light went off were couple days ago it would always stay on but now it is off and the tempterature is on 60F and AUTOMATIC and blower is on high.

    I have no idea what to do now, the manifold gage set shows almost no static pressure even after trying to charge the system. While charging the pressure on the low side goes up to 50psi but that is only the pressure of the can itself.

    I am looking at the drier and I know here is no way to install it wrong. Everything looks fine and the orifice tube is installed corectly as well.

    Any ideas please let me know.

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings SquiddyB6S4's Avatar
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    Two things:
    1) What does the low side read, with ECON off, engine idling, all warmed up? Are you saying that this is when it reads 50psi, or it only read 50psi while you had the can open and connected, and it reads something else now?
    2) What does the high side read? You'll need to include a measurement for both sides for me to help you further.

    It's impossible to tell without a high side reading as well, but sounds like it may be the same old diagnosis, "compressor not compressing". I don't have experience with VAG-COM, but the factory machine is amazing and would quickly find the fault if it was electrical. It's really too bad there is no cost-effective mimic of it.
    Where did you get this new compressor from? And is there any chance of doing something really silly, like failing to reconnect fans or not tightening the compressor drive shaft properly?
    -Jason
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  31. #31
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    Ok now the car is running, the ac is on HIGH and ECON light is off. I am using a 12 oz can of 134A connected to the yellow port, the low side is open and high side shut. On the low side I am showing about 55 psi and low side is 0 psi. It does not take the charge at all. Static pressure is zero in the system.

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings SquiddyB6S4's Avatar
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    I think this is more of an electrons problem then. If it were me, I might get under there and confirm that the driveshaft is indeed driving the compressor snout, but you did it, so I assume you would realize if you did something wrong with that.

    It is actually possible that there is a blockage in one of the lines, and I would guess that that is more likely than a failure of one of the electrical components. If you have access to a dealer, I would take it to them and have them check out the A/C system. You'll pay about $120ish for the diag, unless you find a dealership that has gone to 1/2 diag (my local one has), in which case you'll pay like $60ish, and you will know immediately what the problem is, rather than guessing and guessing. I can't really help much from here as far as pinpointing the problem, unless you have the FSM, in which case you could look up the test procedures yourself for each component in question.

    But, moreover, did you buy this compressor new? Or did you buy a used one? Because your symptoms are exactly what a B6/B7 S4 does with a bad compressor.
    -Jason
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  33. #33
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    Lots of great info here Guys...... New to this Forum so any help would be greatly appreciated....

    I'm in the investigation stages of A/C issues. Plenty of system pressure. Cold Air just quit a week ago Sunday.....hottest day of the year of course ....it has suddenly quite before but came back to life the next day with copious right foot action.....which surprised me. This is probably the third time it has quit now but the last 2 times it came back to life quite quickly......

    Anyway I read a lot about the Hi/Lo pressure switch being faulty........Where in the heck is it???? My A/C shop thought it was on the right of the condenser pipe work just under the bottom left had corner of the driver headlight. But doing investigation I believe that's the Thrust Sensor??? We are also looking for the A/C Compressor Regulator Valve...Any idea where that bad boy is??

    So I have no leaks, good system pressure and no cold air. Before i bight the bullet on a new Compressor I want to exhaust all other avenues....

    Thanks in advance for any help or insight you can give.......

    RH, Victoris, BC, Canada
    2005, S4 Avant
    Last edited by ///MPower; 08-25-2010 at 09:11 PM. Reason: Forgot to add info

  34. #34
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    I have the same issue as MPower. Anyone have any suggestions?

    Issue: No cold air from A/C
    Done so far: replaced pressure sensor; checked VAG-COM - found low freon pressue. Shop filled the system but still the compressor won't activate.
    The shop tells me it's a bad compressor but they didn't seem too confident. I'm having doubts since, like MPower, I have had several instances where the A/C wouldn't deliver cold air, and full throttle seemed to cure it.

    Any help is appreciated!! The dealer wants $3,400 (no joke) and the indy shop wants $2,400

  35. #35
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    Reviving this instead of starting another. My car was down back in august for a good 5 weeks. When I finally got the car back the AC no longer worked I got it checked for leaks etc. No leaks and the pressure, freon etc was right where it was supposed to be. I have no ECON light which would make sense since the system shouldnt be over/under filled. Its starting to get warm out so I was messing around with it again to. Got under the car and the shaft is spinning so I assume it didn't snap? Are there any other things I can check before I order one and begin the replacement, I have vagcom if that helps.

    Also it the shaft didn't snap do I still need to flush the whole system or is it possible the compressor just died and didn't send metal shards everywhere?

    To complete this I will need a compressor, new dryer and a few seals correct?

  36. #36
    Active Member Two Rings
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    in the interest of keeping the AC thread together, this is the only one i see that i should post this to;
    the drive gear splines for the drive shaft are apparently sheared off, can someone help me understand where that drive exists?

  37. #37
    Senior Member Three Rings RPMtech147's Avatar
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    I've been working on Audi/Lambo for 4 years + I've done a lot of vw on the side and it really really pisses me off they put this design in anything......The system sucks 2 fold.....1st, Its always on...even when it's not on...the pumps still moving gasses, be it at a much lower pressure, but it's still putting wear on the parts and wasting gas. Secondly.....oil in the system is circulated by gas flow, once the system goes low, theres no more 134 to move the oil around. I recommend servicing this system, or any system at least once a year. Compressors, if maintained and not let to run low last a LONG time. My 1996 E36 has 226,000 miles. On the OE compressor still. Now mind you it doesn't get as Ice cold as it did 100,000 miles Im sure due to wear on the compressor and dirty condenser/evap fins. That's all I've ever done is check the weight in the system the first hot day of the year, top it off to OE Spec, usually less then 3oz. .Mine lasted 1 day after I bought it.....Im sure the old owner thought he was doing me a favor buy putting a quick 12 ounce can in before he sold it, head pressure went up, pop off went off, pressure went down, and stayed down. = )
    2004 S4, Down Pipes + Full Exhaust. GIAC tune w/ rear O2 delete = )

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Three Rings vacsimile's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrh12000 View Post
    in the interest of keeping the AC thread together, this is the only one i see that i should post this to;
    the drive gear splines for the drive shaft are apparently sheared off, can someone help me understand where that drive exists?
    Are you sure?! You're in for a real world of hurt my friend... the driveshaft splines into the PTO assembly. I'm not sure how much of that is available separately, but either way the engine needs to be removed to replace it.

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Three Rings vacsimile's Avatar
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    Oh and in case it hasn't been covered in this thread, the lock carrier does not have to be removed to get the compressor... Service position is all you need.

  40. #40
    Active Member Two Rings
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    unfortunately its for sure sheared/stripped the splines, and yes i understand i will need to pull the engine, but where is that pto assembly is it part of the cam chain drive?

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