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  1. #1
    Active Member Three Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    B6/B7 S4 Valley Pan Gasket DIY

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    This is my first DIY write up so i hope it can help some others in their quest to stop the infamous oil leak from the Valley Pan and Oil Filter Housing Gasket. I searched high and low and could not find a DIY for this so i just dug in and took pictures along the way. I'm sure some parts of the repair are missing and i will do my best to explain what is needed to be done. Feel free to chime in and add to this! Thanks
    THIS POST IS FOR INFORMATIVE PURPOSES ONLY. IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF TO SAVE HUNDREDS/THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS, I AM NOT HELD LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR FOR THE AMOUNT OF BEER YOU CAN BUY WITH ALL THAT MONEY YOU SAVED!! :)

    Common symptoms of a leaking Valley pan gasket and/or oil filter housing to block gasket: Oil running down the front of the drivers or passengers side of the engine.
    First off, some of the parts you will need:

    Valley Pan Gasket
    Oil filter to block gasket/o-ring
    Lower intake manifold gaskets
    Hose Clamps
    Oil and Filter
    Oil Pressure switch(optional, but if you are already in there, why not? its cheap)
    Basic tools (T30 torx, ratchet and sockets, Allen bits, Etc..)

    You do not need to put the car into service position for the repair, however it can help to have a little extra room around the front of the intake manifold. I put my S4 into service position to change the serpentine belt. Besides, it only takes like 10 minutes to get it into the service position, so why not?

    Open Hood:




    Now stand back and admire audi's fine work of shoving that huge engine into the tiny engine bay. Thanks Audi!

    Disconnect Negative terminal on Battery(self explanatory)

    Remove Engine covers:


    You have a few options for disconnecting the Fuel line on the engine. one is the Fuel line going into the fuel rail, the other is leaving the fuel line attached to the fuel rails and just pulling the rail off the injectors. i went with the first option because i didn't know otherwise.



    The other option would be to remove the bolts (10mm i believe) holding the rail to the manifold and pull the rail off of the injectors



    Next you want to remove the Intake Tube. I remove pretty much everything around the area im working on to have more space



    Remove these 2 screws and the "ram air" plastic tube (whatever its called) comes off with just a pull





    Remove the 2 screws holding the half of the air filter box in, and remove the secondary air injection hose from the housing as well



    Make sure to disconnect the MAF plug and any other stuff attached to the intake tube



    Next remove the injector wiring harness. the plugs can be a pita so be gentle



    Now i probably did this wrong, but i removed the upper and lower intake manifolds separately. I believe you can do the job by just removing the whole intake manifold as a unit, but like i said, i didn't have much to go on. The bolts holding the upper intake to the lower intake are Torx bolts and the bolts holding the Lower intake manifold to the block are Allen Bolts. Id love for someone to share with me if it is actually needed to remove them separately.



    Now, you want to remove all the Vacuum lines and electrical connectors from the Intake manifold.



    There are a few Vacuum lines and other relater hoses on the back side of the intake manifold. Some go to the Throttle body and what not. I found that i had to remove a few of them to remove the intake manifold. Exactly which ones, i couldn't tell you.( My back started hurting at this point lol) Just look at the back of the intake and give a little tug, you'll see the ones you need to remove. The hose clamps that Audi uses, just insert a screwdriver into the crimped part that looks like its begging for a screwdriver to be inserted and twist. they come off easily. Just make sure to replace them with high quality ones. You dont want to have to redo any of this because of a hose clamp that failed.
    Something i had to do (not sure if it was needed or not) i removed the throttle body. For some reason the lower intake manifold was getting hung up on the throttle body and the easiest solution i had was to remove the 4 bolts holding it on (allen i believe)
    One thing i couldnt photo was the 4 sensors (cam position or knock sensor, im not sure) that were bolted down under the intake manifold. i believe it was a 13 mm bolt for each. just unbolt them and the intake manifold should come right off.

    MAKE SURE YOU DONT BREAK THESE VACUUM LINES. they are on both sides of the intake manifold



    And we have an oil leak. the red dots are where the sensors were bolted down. So this is where the valley pan gasket lives. Its hiding inside its house.



    Its a good idea to cover the intake ports to prevent stuff from dropping into them. i used shop towels



    The valley pan cover is held in by a million little hex screws. It helps to try and clean up the area in order to see them all. And whatever you do, don't strip them out! lol
    You need to remove the oil filter housing as well. it is held in by 4 bolts. 2 Hex and 2 allen. you can see 2 of them in the photo. one of the allen bolts is hidden behind the filter housing. There is a wire attached to the back of the oil filter housing. Make sure to remove this. It goes to the oil pressure switch.



    Now remove the old valley pan "gasket" aka flat piece of metal with holes in it. Clean up the sealing surfaces that the gasket comes into contact with and replace the gasket. Also clean up the intake manifold gasket mating surfaces and install everything in reverse order. Refer to your service manual and/or internet for the torque specs.
    Drain and fill the oil and replace the oil filter. I like to dump oil into the oil filter housing after doing a job like this. When i remove all the oil out of the filter housing and lines going into the engine, In my opinion it helps with dry starting, but then again, what do i know.

    I hope someone finds this helpful. As i i stated, this is my first DIY, so please dont flame me for my horrible pictures and knowledge. lol
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings bmwpower603's Avatar
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    Nice write up Vinny. You should have done the oil check valves while you were right there. I have read all the DIY's. But don't have the balls to do this one.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Three Rings Brettannica's Avatar
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    Great write up. It’s always appreciated when someone takes the time and effort to support other users on this forum, so Kudos to you.

    ECS Tuning has a step by step pictographic PDF on the bottom of their Check Valve Kit item... but it’s brilliant to have both perspectives.

    http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...llation_R1.pdf
    Last edited by Brettannica; 12-17-2015 at 04:18 AM.
    In The Garage: B7 S4: JHM Tune Carbon Fibre: Vis Racing Hood, Relak Skirts & Paddle Extensions, Blades, DTM Deck Lip : 034 Snub & Bracket : JR Air Filter : H&R Springs : F.I. Catback : Gunmetal 19” 6RS V10’s • B8 A4 Avant: BSR Bling : 19” 4RS V10’s : V-Tech Chip
    Previous Rides: • E32 BMW 740i • E36 BMW 325i • B5 A3S • B6 A4 • Ford Falcon 351 • Triumph TR8 • Vauxall Super Tourer • Saab 9-3 • Saab 9-5 • Toyota Prado 4x4

  4. #4
    Active Member Three Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    I didn't know that. Thanks. Yeah I didn't know about the check valves at the time or I would have. When I go to P&P my intake, I'll do them then.
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings The Guvna's Avatar
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    Awesome write up, to a new owner, stuff like this makes me feel a bit more comfortable working on this engine.
    C4 UrS6. B6 S4.

  6. #6
    Active Member Three Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    Yeah i understand what you mean. I'm always a bit iffy when it comes to doing stuff i haven't done before. The valley pan gasket is basically just a piece of metal with holes in it. They are notorious for leaking on this engine. The filter to block housing gasket/o-ring was rock hard when i took it out of mine. Rubber seals tend to do that over time and is a major cause for oil leaks on cars. Just don't be scared going into the job. Take your time and take a bunch of pictures along the way of everything before it is taken apart. That way if something is amiss or you aren't 100% sure how something goes back together, you can look back into your pictures and pin point the part you need to see. And buy some blue threadlocker, some of your favorite gasket maker/sealant and a torque wrench. The rest is just digging in and doing it. Might want to get a few cans of brake parts cleaner or other grease/grime remover. No point in putting the car back together still dirty if you have come this far. That way you can spot a future leak easier and be able to pinpoint the location faster.
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings DasShane's Avatar
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    about how long did this take you? mine just started leaking.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings Brettannica's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DasShane View Post
    about how long did this take you? mine just started leaking.
    I can update you next week. Going to pull the trigger on Tuesday.
    In The Garage: B7 S4: JHM Tune Carbon Fibre: Vis Racing Hood, Relak Skirts & Paddle Extensions, Blades, DTM Deck Lip : 034 Snub & Bracket : JR Air Filter : H&R Springs : F.I. Catback : Gunmetal 19” 6RS V10’s • B8 A4 Avant: BSR Bling : 19” 4RS V10’s : V-Tech Chip
    Previous Rides: • E32 BMW 740i • E36 BMW 325i • B5 A3S • B6 A4 • Ford Falcon 351 • Triumph TR8 • Vauxall Super Tourer • Saab 9-3 • Saab 9-5 • Toyota Prado 4x4

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings DasShane's Avatar
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    Thanks.

  10. #10
    Active Member Three Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    It took me a few hours. 5 i think...but i was taking pictures, had the front in service position looking for a dropped socket, and i had the coil packs removed to do the plugs. Could easily do it in 2 hours now. I had nothing to go off of. ECS tuning has a good DIY too
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings DasShane's Avatar
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    I just ordered the whole check valve kit from ecs so wish me luck. To add to my issues the charcoal canister is busted and filling my n80 valve with junk and my washer fluid reservoir is cracked and emptied all the fluid onto my garage floor. Probably because all the oil that it's leaking just isn't enough.

  12. #12
    Active Member One Ring
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    Thank You so much! It's on my to do list for the weekend.

  13. #13
    Active Member Three Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DasShane View Post
    I just ordered the whole check valve kit from ecs so wish me luck. To add to my issues the charcoal canister is busted and filling my n80 valve with junk and my washer fluid reservoir is cracked and emptied all the fluid onto my garage floor. Probably because all the oil that it's leaking just isn't enough.
    lol i swear my cars all hate me. you put it very nicely..as if the oil leaking wasnt enough. starting in december 2014 i have owned:... 1997 chevy caviler(oil pressure sending unit blew out pumping all the oil out at highway speed. once i realized it..it was too late) 1997 Volkswagen GTI VR6...dumped over 4 grand into it(timing chain came off at highway speed...bye bye valves), 2005 Mercedes c230(had a burnt valve that needed the head gone through to fix at 70k miles) 2003 Audi RS6 (needed new brakes all around $2300 if i remember correctly, was due for timing belt replacement($3000 at audi) and it needed the DRC system replaced $$$$$) 2010 Audi A4 (replaced the battery and wheel bearings before it was totalled) and now my beloved 2005.5 S4. As if leaking oil wasn't enough... ive done the valley pan gasket(here) and lets see.....power steering leak, Valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, removed the rear sunshade because of a defective regulator, replaced all the stupid small hard vacuum lines, and then a few days ago i noticed the coolant was low...front of the radiator had a nice crack in it "as if leaking oil wasnt enough" and then finding a radiator....lets not go there...ugh got it in today and am going to put it in tonight!!! yay
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings DasShane's Avatar
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    When it rains it pours haha. If it makes you feel any better my seatbelt stopped retracting.

  15. #15
    Active Member Three Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    bwahaha. My rear passenger seatbelt acts up all the time. My daughter cannot for the life of her seem to pull the seatbelt out. I feel your pain! New radiator installed and she's back up and running again....for now!
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings Terry.Reese's Avatar
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    So I guess I should do this also https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_S4--V8/ES2765724/ Thanks again Vinny!
    Last edited by Terry.Reese; 04-20-2016 at 10:46 AM.

  17. #17
    Active Member Three Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    That looks like the kit! ECS also has a very nice write-up similar to this one. probably better lol. best of luck! i'm thinking about re-doing this because i have an intake leak again. yay. im thinking about doing the check valves because i didn't do them when i wrote this, and i'm debating on intake spacers while i'm in there.
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings bmwpower603's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VinnysS4 View Post
    That looks like the kit! ECS also has a very nice write-up similar to this one. probably better lol. best of luck! i'm thinking about re-doing this because i have an intake leak again. yay. im thinking about doing the check valves because i didn't do them when i wrote this, and i'm debating on intake spacers while i'm in there.
    I just did full timing vinny! Car runs mint now. And my s4 was out of time.

    Did the check valve kit. And did NOT torque the valley pan correctly. And have a really bad leak.

    I'm replacing the gasket. And using ecs tuning torque settings.





    Sent from my SM-G900T using Audizine mobile app

  19. #19
    Active Member Three Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    great job! I'm debating on ordering the kit or just waiting for it to blow up so i can either drop something stupid in it like a ls7 engine or go sleeved. haha. realistically, i don't want to dump quite that much money into my money pit, but i might if i decide to keep the S4 for the long haul. I'm tossing around the idea of buying a built S4 and swapping over the engine into mine. it would make more sense to me...
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings 0396's Avatar
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    As usual, congrats on providing such a great write up.
    You guys are talented and had the patience when I was much younger to tackle these.
    Oh, at least I can read up on them 😊
    0396

  21. #21
    Active Member Three Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0396 View Post
    As usual, congrats on providing such a great write up.
    You guys are talented and had the patience when I was much younger to tackle these.
    Oh, at least I can read up on them 😊
    thanks man. i really appreciate the kind words. I have taken sooooo many pictures of my car and doing different stuff to it. I always shy away from writing DIY's. Usually half way through my back starts hurting and i get cranky. haha. For the life of me i couldn't find a good DIY for this (ECS tuning has one i believe that's good--found it afterwards) so that's what prompted me to throw this up)
    Best of luck!
    Vinny
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

  22. #22
    Active Member Two Rings
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    i'm going to start this job tonight, so it's reassuring to see your photos and tips - thanks! between this, the Bentley (awful pictures, kinda light on details), and the ECS instructions (great photos but excessive detail if you know your way around), i'm feeling pretty good. i've had the IM off before, though, so really the only mysterious territory is the valley pan and re-torquing its many bolts.

    however, i'm not worried about the 7.4 ft-lbs. a while ago i got a great deal on a lightly-used compact Snap-On torque wrench that i thought was ft-lbs., but turned out to be in-lbs. i decided to keep it, though, so now any time there's anything under 16 ft-lbs. i think "yeah, I GOT DAT!"

    - emilio

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings Terry.Reese's Avatar
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    So what was the ECS recommended torque setting? I am not getting mine from ECS but from someone who just installed them and is now parting his vehicle out.

  24. #24
    Active Member Two Rings
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    "Install the valley pan onto the gasket, then torque the valley pan bolts in the order shown to 10 Nm (7.4 Ft-lbs)."

  25. #25
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    BTW, should be easy enough to figure out but those valley pan bolts are T30 Torx. Somewhere on here I saw someone say they are T27, but this is just not the case. Yeah, a T27 will work, but you'll really risk stripping them, which is already easy because they are likely to be filled with grit and debris (a small pick is a good idea for removing it). I also used a vacuum to suck up all the crap before removing the cover just to try to keep the area clean.

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