This is my first DIY write up so i hope it can help some others in their quest to stop the infamous oil leak from the Valley Pan and Oil Filter Housing Gasket. I searched high and low and could not find a DIY for this so i just dug in and took pictures along the way. I'm sure some parts of the repair are missing and i will do my best to explain what is needed to be done. Feel free to chime in and add to this! Thanks
THIS POST IS FOR INFORMATIVE PURPOSES ONLY. IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF TO SAVE HUNDREDS/THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS, I AM NOT HELD LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR FOR THE AMOUNT OF BEER YOU CAN BUY WITH ALL THAT MONEY YOU SAVED!! :)
Common symptoms of a leaking Valley pan gasket and/or oil filter housing to block gasket: Oil running down the front of the drivers or passengers side of the engine.
First off, some of the parts you will need:
Valley Pan Gasket
Oil filter to block gasket/o-ring
Lower intake manifold gaskets
Oil and Filter
Oil Pressure switch(optional, but if you are already in there, why not? its cheap)
Basic tools (T30 torx, ratchet and sockets, Allen bits, Etc..)
You do not need to put the car into service position for the repair, however it can help to have a little extra room around the front of the intake manifold. I put my S4 into service position to change the serpentine belt. Besides, it only takes like 10 minutes to get it into the service position, so why not?
Now stand back and admire audi's fine work of shoving that huge engine into the tiny engine bay. Thanks Audi!
Disconnect Negative terminal on Battery(self explanatory)
Remove Engine covers:
You have a few options for disconnecting the Fuel line on the engine. one is the Fuel line going into the fuel rail, the other is leaving the fuel line attached to the fuel rails and just pulling the rail off the injectors. i went with the first option because i didn't know otherwise.
The other option would be to remove the bolts (10mm i believe) holding the rail to the manifold and pull the rail off of the injectors
Next you want to remove the Intake Tube. I remove pretty much everything around the area im working on to have more space
Remove these 2 screws and the "ram air" plastic tube (whatever its called) comes off with just a pull
Remove the 2 screws holding the half of the air filter box in, and remove the secondary air injection hose from the housing as well
Make sure to disconnect the MAF plug and any other stuff attached to the intake tube
Next remove the injector wiring harness. the plugs can be a pita so be gentle
Now i probably did this wrong, but i removed the upper and lower intake manifolds separately. I believe you can do the job by just removing the whole intake manifold as a unit, but like i said, i didn't have much to go on. The bolts holding the upper intake to the lower intake are Torx bolts and the bolts holding the Lower intake manifold to the block are Allen Bolts. Id love for someone to share with me if it is actually needed to remove them separately.
Now, you want to remove all the Vacuum lines and electrical connectors from the Intake manifold.
There are a few Vacuum lines and other relater hoses on the back side of the intake manifold. Some go to the Throttle body and what not. I found that i had to remove a few of them to remove the intake manifold. Exactly which ones, i couldn't tell you.( My back started hurting at this point lol) Just look at the back of the intake and give a little tug, you'll see the ones you need to remove. The hose clamps that Audi uses, just insert a screwdriver into the crimped part that looks like its begging for a screwdriver to be inserted and twist. they come off easily. Just make sure to replace them with high quality ones. You dont want to have to redo any of this because of a hose clamp that failed.
Something i had to do (not sure if it was needed or not) i removed the throttle body. For some reason the lower intake manifold was getting hung up on the throttle body and the easiest solution i had was to remove the 4 bolts holding it on (allen i believe)
One thing i couldnt photo was the 4 sensors (cam position or knock sensor, im not sure) that were bolted down under the intake manifold. i believe it was a 13 mm bolt for each. just unbolt them and the intake manifold should come right off.
MAKE SURE YOU DONT BREAK THESE VACUUM LINES. they are on both sides of the intake manifold
And we have an oil leak. the red dots are where the sensors were bolted down. So this is where the valley pan gasket lives. Its hiding inside its house.
Its a good idea to cover the intake ports to prevent stuff from dropping into them. i used shop towels
The valley pan cover is held in by a million little hex screws. It helps to try and clean up the area in order to see them all. And whatever you do, don't strip them out! lol
You need to remove the oil filter housing as well. it is held in by 4 bolts. 2 Hex and 2 allen. you can see 2 of them in the photo. one of the allen bolts is hidden behind the filter housing. There is a wire attached to the back of the oil filter housing. Make sure to remove this. It goes to the oil pressure switch.
Now remove the old valley pan "gasket" aka flat piece of metal with holes in it. Clean up the sealing surfaces that the gasket comes into contact with and replace the gasket. Also clean up the intake manifold gasket mating surfaces and install everything in reverse order. Refer to your service manual and/or internet for the torque specs.
Drain and fill the oil and replace the oil filter. I like to dump oil into the oil filter housing after doing a job like this. When i remove all the oil out of the filter housing and lines going into the engine, In my opinion it helps with dry starting, but then again, what do i know.
I hope someone finds this helpful. As i i stated, this is my first DIY, so please dont flame me for my horrible pictures and knowledge. lol