so people understand the differences for our B7's.
You should follow the above with my B7 updated picture here:
1) Remove torx screws (sorry typo in the picture)
2) Pull off the wiring/hose off the clamp to allow better mobility
3) Push the plastic wire container and the coilpacks together as it helps loosen up the locking tab mechanism for easier removal.
4) Pull down on tab to unlock the connection. You might here a click but sometimes you just have to tug between the coilpack and the wiring to see they have been disconnected. As the other DIY says you can leave the wiring plugged into the coilpack. I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THAT. Since the old DIY has soft wiring. This is hard plastic or metal and makes it impossible to maneuver all coilpacks out still attached. I tried it, I was able to get the front 3 out, but the 4th was difficult and I ended up cracking the harness connector. Luckily it still works for me but just one or 2 tabs of that connector broke off. The wiring is still in intact. A buddy recommended using the right hand to hold the coilpack and the left hand holding the harness with your left thumb on the tab pushing down . With one strong pulling motion you should be able to pull it apart. I have soft skin (teheheee) so I used a flathead screw driver... may not be a good for your tabs.
5) With a strong grip pull the coilpack straight out. Some people say these click in and out. On mine that was not the case. They slid in and out very tightly but actually should click onto the spark plug itself.
6) Follow the rest of the steps in the above DIY. I took the advice of putting anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs and putting a very thin layer of dielectric grease on the plug end (not the ignitor side. DO NOT touch this side at all except with gapping tool. (I verified each spark plug was gapped to factory spec of .028 since I also used OEM spark plugs). I recommend wiping off the grease of the gap tool as my brand new one came with it greased probably to avoid corrosion etc.
Other tips:
*Make sure you use the 5/8" spark plug socket and make sure the rubber washer is still in the socket, otherwise you will not have any other way of safely removing the old plugs and putting in the new plugs without dropping them.
*When inserting new plugs, be sure to SLOWLY place the plugs in. You don't want to drop the plug or have it hit the wall or mess up the threads or tip in any way. You can break the tip and if that happens you will risk dropping that broken piece into your engine while having to pay for another spark plug or you may end up changing the gap. I don't think you want to risk it... so be careful.
*When torquing the plugs, I recommend you start with a smaller torque (15 ft-lbs) and slowly move up on it to the recommended 22 ft-lbs of torque. When trying to get the torque wrench to click, apply pressure to it very slowly as there is still chance of overtorquing. (I'm a little OCD, but this is how I like to do it)
*Like I said, I'm a little OCD so I made sure I put the coilpacks in to whichever one it came from.
Re: Spark plugs for Dummies DIY - update for B7 A4's
very nice. you didnt wanna try ngk one step colder plugs?
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Re: Spark plugs for Dummies DIY - update for B7 A4's
Great DIY. One thing though. I would not use a screw driver to remove the wire connectors to the coilpacks. Or to "make them click".
All you have to do (and I told this to a friend with a 1.8T, but of course he did not listen and broke a tab). Is push the connector towards the coilpack, using your thumb pull the lever towards you and then pull the connector toward you, in one motion. SUPER easy.
Re: Spark plugs for Dummies DIY - update for B7 A4's
Originally Posted by Quattro
going to add to FAQ.
can you maybe upload those photos to the AZ gallery, so we can keep those in the system?
-randy
Sure! I'll upload right now and relink the pics
Originally Posted by Tusin
Great DIY. One thing though. I would not use a screw driver to remove the wire connectors to the coilpacks. Or to "make them click".
All you have to do (and I told this to a friend with a 1.8T, but of course he did not listen and broke a tab). Is push the connector towards the coilpack, using your thumb pull the lever towards you and then pull the connector toward you, in one motion. SUPER easy.
Good call... my coilpacks were stuck in the socket pretty bad and I did break the tab... but inserting the screwdriver on the wrong side I'll update the DIY as well with your suggestion.
Re: Spark plugs for Dummies DIY - update for B7 A4's
Originally Posted by RedS-line
very nice. you didnt wanna try ngk one step colder plugs?
I should have... but I wasn't sure on what the gap should be on those. People had their own recommendations for the gap and kept me uneasy as I don't want to risk myself getting stuck in 0 degree weather as Chicago has tons of those days.
I also heard that the stock plugs are superb from my AZ research.
Re: Spark plugs for Dummies DIY - update for B7 A4's
Originally Posted by Brillo
very nice. you didn't wanna try ngk one step colder plugs?
Perhaps I missed something. What is the reason to consider going with a colder plug. Are folks having pre-ignition problems?
None unless your car is modded and the car runs hotter due to it. So people with mods that increase boost or internal temps then its better to use, but I think foul much more quickly in normal driving. At least that is what I read in other forums.
Re: Spark plugs for Dummies DIY - update for B7 A4's
You've definitely saved a lot of "B7" owners a lot of fruitless research, anguish, and restlessness on this DIY. Definitely saved this for use and will save me hundreds of $$ by doing this project on my own--confidently.
RLo
Formula 1 window tint Premier Series, RS4 Reps, PSS9s, Velocity Snub Mount
Re: Spark plugs for Dummies DIY - update for B7 A4's
Originally Posted by Sanjman
I should have... but I wasn't sure on what the gap should be on those. People had their own recommendations for the gap and kept me uneasy as I don't want to risk myself getting stuck in 0 degree weather as Chicago has tons of those days.
I also heard that the stock plugs are superb from my AZ research.
I just went APR 91 with full exhaust and TP. I asked APR what plugs to run with that and they said stock and stock heat range at .030 gap.
Of course I then didn't listen to that and bought ngk iridiums 1 range colder. Now I'm thinking I should have stuck with their reco.
Re: Spark plugs for Dummies DIY - update for B7 A4's
Originally Posted by rlopez
You've definitely saved a lot of "B7" owners a lot of fruitless research, anguish, and restlessness on this DIY. Definitely saved this for use and will save me hundreds of $$ by doing this project on my own--confidently.
Thanks for this DYI.I plan on doing my plugs soon.There is no mention of WHICH PLUG to use???Can someone help out with this please? (2008 A4 2.0T w/TIP).Thanks.
HIS: 2010 A4 2.0L 6MT Premium W/18 Inch Sport PKG Ibis White
HERS: 2008 A4 2.0L Quattro Tiptronic Premium Ocean Blue
Thanks sanj.Great write-up BTW.I was able to get NGK Iridium plugs for $7.90 from my local parts store.I'll try them and if they don't do OK then I'll go with the BOSCH.-Andy.
HIS: 2010 A4 2.0L 6MT Premium W/18 Inch Sport PKG Ibis White
HERS: 2008 A4 2.0L Quattro Tiptronic Premium Ocean Blue
Current Set-Up:
Custom Intake w/K&N Cone
APR TIP
GFB WRX Hybrid BOV
Custom 2.5" Exhaust - Magnaflow Race Muffler & Thermal R&D Rear Mufflers
Slotted Rotors up front & Slotted/Dimpled in the rear w/EBC Redstuff all around
RS4 Rear Sway
How many turns is 22 ft lbs? I don't have a torque wrench and will be attempting this soon.
I've done countless plug swaps without one, not to worry. 22 ft/lbs is "snug" if that makes sense. Don't crank the heck out of it, just seat the plug and crush the washer, and maybe another 1/4 turn.
2007 Audi A4 S-Line 2.0T FSI - APR Stage II+, APR HPFP, JHM 4:1 Center Differential, Carbonio (APR) intake, AWE Tuning FMIC, 034 Motorsport turbo inlet pipe, BSH catch can, OEM "D" DV, APR test pipe, Neuspeed exhaust, H&R coilovers, ECS Stage 4 BBK with Pagid pads, RS4 rear sway bar, Neuspeed short shift, Neuspeed snub mount, Defi MeterBF gauges with Defi-Link, Vag'd, de-badged, Huper Optik tint, RS4 grille, EU amber tails, 19" Hartmann RS4 replicas and H&R Trak+ wheel spacers
How difficult is to swap out the spark plugs on our engine? i ordered new Sp and CP, should be in by tuesday or wed this coming week. I will be trying this for the first time, wish me luck lol
As of Right Now: Vorsteiner CF Hood, E-Code Bi-Xenon, Stasis SS Coils, RS4 Rear Sway Bar. CC Mod, 20% tint,, Febi-Bilstein Control Arm Kit, APR Fuel Pump, Unitronic Stage 2, Custom Quad 3" turbo back exhaust (3" Tp, 3" DP, 3" straight Pipe), DTM Front & Rear Bumper, VMR Vent Boost Gauge
Not difficult .you just need a t20 torx to remove the ignition Wire the coil packs just pull out and a Sparkplug socket. I just did mine in my schools parking lot took 20 minutes.
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06 A4 2.0T, Quartz Gray, Quattro Tiptronic.
APR Stage 2,RS4 Rear Sway bar, Carbonio Intake, Smoked tails,
Thanks for the DIY! Just did it today and I am kinda surprised at how much force is required to disconnect the coils from that rail....I used a flat head to hold the tab down and pulled with all my strength on the rail to try to detach it. I don't know about others, but my 3rd one was VERY difficult to detach...I had to reconnect all of them, disconnect it first, then do all the others
Also, looks like a coil blew in chamber 4 people it had a bunch of dried oil residue but the car did get the coils replaced under the recall so I am not too worried...
p.s: to get the coils out of the chamber, life is easier if you use 2 flat head screw drivers, engage them in the top part of the coils, and pull up with equal force on both sides
2006 A4 2.0T 6 SPD MT // Dolphin Grey on Black // Sport + Premium Package // Quattro
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