I got that long stroke...(2.1 95.5mm build)

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Coil pack upgrade and some wiring rework:

[SpeedWorksAuto]

More wiring done.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Next wewekend will be bleeding the clutch and brakes, throwing some oil in it, hopefully have the body side connectors figured out.......first start.

[michael66899]

Jealous, cant wait man. How long has it been down now, my stupid blue car hasn't been driven in over a year.. not cool.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

I got about a year too.

[michael66899]

A buddy of mine, on his way up to his house stopped by and took me for a spin in his stg 3 s4. Ya, I see now Imma have to start saving up for a 6 speed and some tires. That thing was rediculous. Then he launched it....!

Oh and I don't know if I ever showed you this but here's a quick pull without all the weight and some cooler air..

[SpeedWorksAuto]

The finishing phase of the wiring is kicking my butt. Mostly due to the part that I dont have the 1.8t Bentley in front of me. I have been on the phone all day gettting pin outs from the home PC that I have the software loaded. I really wish I would have got the paper manual and not the disc. Wiring pinouts on previous page have been updated mostly for plug T10AR.

Right now I am trouble shooting why I dont have power to fuses 28 fuel pump, 29, 32, 34 ecm. I traced them all to see what they have in common. There is a "relay plate" shown in my Chiltons that all these fuses one way or another get their power from. I need to dig deeper to see where this relay plate is, and whats going on with it.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

The swap runs. I just filled it with oil and hoped for the best. I couldnt figure out why the three fuses linked to the fuel pump relay wouldnt get power. last night I was digging around some more and I noticed a few people saying when the fuel pump relay went out they were getting results like me. I took the cover off of the fuel pump relay and closed the circuit by hand, voila all the fuses linked to it had power. I thought about it some more, and tried to turn it over....CLICK.....fuel pump relay closed...??? I never knew a fuel pump relay to close the circuit while cranking. I have always had them close with a key on, before the crank to prime the fuel system for the start. I kept cranking until it started and boy was it rough.



I thought I needed to move wires around because the throttle body wasny moving at all. I traced the wires a few more times and nothing needed to be moved. With the throttle unplugged it ran better, but still pretty crappy considereing it was at WOT. I bolted my 1.8t throttle to the intake with one bolt and centered it as best I could. The car ran a little better still since it wasnt as big of a vaccum leak. I still didnt have any throttle control. I unhooked the ECM to check a few of the pins. When I plugged it back in the throttle started to hum. I guess it needed to be reset. I now have a working temporary throttle solution.

[michael66899]

Sooo awesome!!

[SpeedWorksAuto]

For some reason my clutch line won't go far enough into the slave to engage the retaining clip. I thought I had it in until I bled the system and a good three pumps later it blew off. I sown over an hour trying to get it to go. No luck. Ordering something new tomorrow.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

And......we have no compression on one cylinder. I would assume tests the main reason it ran so rough. Actually I pulled all the coils from that bank and the idle didn't change at all. The other two cylinders had good compression.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

I pulled the head and found something stuck in between a intake valve and the seat. I am so glad it was lodged in there really good. It left a few nicks on the top of the piston, but nothing to really worry about.

Bryan @ Audis4Parts helped me out. He sent me a complete head so that all I had to do is bolt it on, retimethe motor and go. Turned out to be a bit more work than that, But I cant really complain now that its all back together.

After all that work this is where we are at now:

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Check engine light is on becaue I have the MAF unplugged. I have the FMIC pretty much done, just turns out most of my t-bolts clamps wont work. Hopefully I will have them tomorrow and I will actually be running boost.

I drove it up and down the street a few times and it ran pretty good.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

I had to rework the coolant overflow tank location in favour of the charge piping:

[jaychen]

I had to rework the coolant overflow tank location in favour of the charge piping:
]

go before show.

well done so far mate. thing must haul arse

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Quick vid of "Muhammed Ali" driving my car while trying to make a vid:

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Never noticed that the speedo isnt working.

[Sales@RAI]

Hey, do you know how the FP relay primes for accessory? Still trying to figure this out on my project. I know pin 65 on the ECU triggers the relay by grounding itself but not sure how it knows the difference between acc and cranking.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

I beat myself up over just that one aspect of the swap for over two weeks. You probably already know this, but I am going to say it anyhow for other people. The fuel pump closes the circuit to power a bunch of engine related electronics. Meaning if the fuel pump relay doesnt click over you wont have power to about 3-4 fuses in your panel. It was a nightmare to troubleshoot why there wasnt any power to some critical fuses. I know that any other setup I remember the fuel pump relay priming the pump when the key goes into the ACC position. For some reason, on this swap it just didnt. I took the cover off of the relay with it in its spot just to see if it would kick close the circuit and it wouldnt.

Long story short my ecm isnt sending the signal until I am actually cranking. I went through the wiring a bunch of times, got fed up, tried to crank the car becasue I didnt care anymore, the relay clicked shut (cover still was off) and the car just started. With the car running I verified power to the fuses and it was all in order.

[Sales@RAI]

I beat myself up over just that one aspect of the swap for over two weeks. You probably already know this, but I am going to say it anyhow for other people. The fuel pump closes the circuit to power a bunch of engine related electronics. Meaning if the fuel pump relay doesnt click over you wont have power to about 3-4 fuses in your panel. It was a nightmare to troubleshoot why there wasnt any power to some critical fuses. I know that any other setup I remember the fuel pump relay priming the pump when the key goes into the ACC position. For some reason, on this swap it just didnt. I took the cover off of the relay with it in its spot just to see if it would kick close the circuit and it wouldnt.

Long story short my ecm isnt sending the signal until I am actually cranking. I went through the wiring a bunch of times, got fed up, tried to crank the car becasue I didnt care anymore, the relay clicked shut (cover still was off) and the car just started. With the car running I verified power to the fuses and it was all in order.

Weird. Seems no one can figure out the answer to this because I've looked through the wiring diagrams about 100 times and I can't see what wire would tell the ECU the difference between ACC (priming) and cranking, and how it would shut off after a second in priming mode. Oh well, I'm close enough on my swap, might as well just give it a shot

[SpeedWorksAuto]

I thought that since my setup was mostly plug and play(to get the motor to run), it would operate like it did in the donor. I only moved two wires at this point for the whole swap. Neither of which are before the relay...one wire I moved because I needed power to the coils....before I traced the the power back to the FPR not priming on ACC . I actually can move that wire back to its original spot, and then the only wire moved would be a power feed to the ECM.

So, since I never really paid attention to a S4, do they even close the relay when on ACC?

[Sales@RAI]

I thought that since my setup was mostly plug and play(to get the motor to run), it would operate like it did in the donor. I only moved two wires at this point for the whole swap. Neither of which are before the relay...one wire I moved because I needed power to the coils....before I traced the the power back to the FPR not priming on ACC . I actually can move that wire back to its original spot, and then the only wire moved would be a power feed to the ECM.

So, since I never really paid attention to a S4, do they even close the relay when on ACC?

not sure hah. I only have the B6 to work off of. However, it would make sense because the only way that the fuel pump gets power is by closing the relay and sending the power through fuse S228 to the FP

[Sales@RAI]

Ok when you crank, does the ECU make pin 65 on the ECU a ground to complete the circuit? I can't figure out why mine isn't working (or working well I should say)

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Ya, it sends the signal to ground when I crank. Did you pop the cover off of the relay so you can phsically see if it was working?

Stupid question but I gotta ask, do you have pin #3 IIRC connected to constant power ? I only ask because that was a problem I was having. I thought where I had it was constant but turned out to be switched.

[Sales@RAI]

Ya, it sends the signal to ground when I crank. Did you pop the cover off of the relay so you can phsically see if it was working?

Stupid question but I gotta ask, do you have pin #3 IIRC connected to constant power ? I only ask because that was a problem I was having. I thought where I had it was constant but turned out to be switched.

Nah I wired it like the 2.7T. I actually had to put an external relay in the ECU box but it's triggered by switched power and goes to T10AR (orange) pin 5 which goes into ECU pin 3 and powers all the injectors at the same time. For some reason my ECU isn't grounding that wire. I ordered a new FP relay (the old one said it was made April 03 so it might be time) it's sitting here next to me so maybe I'll try that later

[SpeedWorksAuto]

When I popped my open I actually manually closed the switch inside to see if everything would work like its supposed to. Fuel pump came on, injectors and coils had power with the switch closed. I then found out what pin was supposed to ground at the FPR relay socket and hooked a test light to it making sure it was grounding.

I hooked my constant power to the white connector. Well, its the connector that piggy backs it. On the 1.8t harness there was a larger gauge red wire that looked like it powered the SAI or whatever. I took the pin/wire/fuse link from the 4cyl harness and put it in my 2.7t harness. Maybe I should wire up a relay to it like you did. I really didnt think about it since there are so many other small issues I have to address. I do know that there is a constant drain on my battery, and logic is telling me the way have the ECU powered is the culprit.

I am trying to think through it. Maybe I will find the motronic power supply relay in my 4cyl harness and adapt it to the 2.7 setup. Where is the constant power coming from on your relay? I know on my T10AR all the powered pins are switched.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

I finally got around to fabbing up a inlet to the turbo. Its really close to the brake/clutch res and I couldnt get something in there that goes from 4" to 3.5" while making a quick shift and a awkward turn at the same time in metal. This part will be made of fiberglass.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Still cleaning it up:



I am just have a few more things to relocate the wires for. I am also going to run a vacuum block to get rid of the lines running all over the intake mani.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

I have been driving it around the neighborhood on my inital tune. My setup didnt like the tune at all. I flashed to a stg 2++ tune and there was a night and day difference. I road around on that for a few more days, until I felt confident that I had most of the mecanicals and wiring hooked up right. Friday I went to a stage 3 tune, and now its getting interesting. The tune needs some work so it will be tailored to my setup, but its pretty damn fast right up until the throttle cut.

There some maps that need some revision apparently. It only really happens when I am at part throttle and the car is building too much boost. If I go WOT it will accel uninterupted. I also am only getting to 15 psi, so I am sure I will have to massage the PID some also.

I cant really complain yet. Boost is similar to the 2.1 I built. Spool around 2.5, full boost like 10rpms later. J/K I really havent seen when full boost hits since I only went WOT and let it go like 3-4 times. I do know that once it starts spooling it is pretty brutal how fast it gets to the rest of the boost. I think my load tables are going to end up looking pretty awkward.

[M-Hood]

Doesn't that oil feed line hit the hood?

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Hmm...I think I meant to swap that out and forgot all about it. I dont think it is pinched by the hood just pushed a little bit.

[bmx_a4]

This is all looking freaking awesome man. I can't wait to see when you get it tuned and ripping!

[SpeedWorksAuto]

More cleaning this weekend:

[Sales@RAI]

love this thing. Did you see the single kit 034 is working on?

[bmx_a4]

I've always wanted a 2.7t, but couldn't justify it given that I have no place readily available to do the major maintenance (turbos, clutch) without laying in dirt lol. This project really has my interest peaked.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

I did. Funny thing is my buddy gave me a set of the 2.8 manifolds when I started the swap. I keep them as a back up just in case my manifiolds decide to fall apart.

You running yet Clint?

[SpeedWorksAuto]

I've always wanted a 2.7t, but couldn't justify it given that I have no place readily available to do the major maintenance (turbos, clutch) without laying in dirt lol. This project really has my interest peaked.

If you dont do a single turbo swap, and just keep it twin turbo, this swap is relatively easy. I am sure it depends on if the car you are swapping into is the late B5, and if you decide to keep the 5 speed like I did. The wiring is VERY similar, almost plug and play, everything bolted right up as far as I remember. You might need to get creative with the drivers side tranny mount if you are 1.8t. You can do like the Russian with the 4.2 swap and get rid of those mounts an use a DTS bar.

[bmx_a4]

Awesome man! I'm definitely gonna keep checking in on your project here, cuz this thing is gonna be a monster when you finish it!

[Sales@RAI]

I did. Funny thing is my buddy gave me a set of the 2.8 manifolds when I started the swap. I keep them as a back up just in case my manifiolds decide to fall apart.

You running yet Clint?

It's right there, got the fuel pump relay to close (needed a crank position sensor). Just need to do some plugs and charge the battery

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Really? I swear these cars are wired so weird. Out of the Blue My car doesnt want to crank and start with the clutch pressed in. I have taken apart the relay thath the clutch switch and ignition switch is wired to and manually closing it while turning the key to start the car. Its a BIG PITA, but I havent had time to really nail it down yet. I clutch switch seems to be in order. Its gotta be getting the signal from the ignition switch if it starts...I hope. But I have bigger things on my palte right now.