1998 A4 1.8TQM GT3071R build starting

[John Gutmannnn]

Right now the parts are:
-ECS Ultimate Timing belt kit
-GT3071R .63 a/r
-Tial 38mm WG
-SPA Exhaust Manifold
-Godspeed FMIC 20"x10" core
-Cx racing 2.5" FMIC Piping set
-Euro-Dyne 630cc tune from PPT
-Custom ss oil lines
-Siemens 630cc High-Z Injectors (thanks to LowandSlow4now)
-Audi V8 MAF
-3 bar FPR
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump in ATP housing
-CTapp Eurodyne Stage 3 Tune
-034 Catchcan Setup
-[undecided] Stage 4 clutch & single mass flywheel

To do:
-Run coolant lines
-install injectors and FPR, put fuel rail back in
-bolt down turbo setup
-Run FMIC Piping
-Install dv, intake, maf
-Install Catch Can
-order/install chipped ecu
-order/install clutch
-install boost gauge
-order more gauges/pillar pod
-install new spark plugs
-put headlights back on

I got this car from a friend who really wanted it gone, it had an exhaust leak where the cat pulled out of the flange on the turbo side. I began looking at things on here and decided to go BT, then decided on BAT. I got the car for $1000 and a $5 tow.

[Seerlah]

I do hope you plan on adding rods to that engine. I would also go with a quality intercooler when pushing that much hp. I would not trust an ebay intercooler past maybe 400chp. Even though it may be rated for it, I would still assume the fin design would still permit heat soak after a couple pulls. I would suggest something like a Precision core with custom piping, if you don't want to go with proven ones such as ER. Also, GIAC does not do BT tunes for the ME5. They only have BT tunes for the ME7, and they are weak sauce. Go with Unitronics or Eurodyne (CTapp).

[John Gutmannnn]

Bump for me needing info.

Few questions: How do I regulate boost because the WG and DV both have springs for pressure release but then I have heard of people using a MBC or EBC to set boost levels. As well as I have read some things about getting a tune for the n75 to control it or a mbc/ebc to control it. What do I need to specify for my tune.

Also official build will be starting weekend after Christmas so I am hoping to have everything including a chipped ECU in my hands by then! and hopefully will have it fired up before 2010!!

@Seerlah I will be adding rods eventually. I will not be cranking up boost too much right now. In WNY there should be about 3 feet of snow here by sunday night so last thing I need in the winter is tooo much power.

-John

[TighTT]

I have an extra brand new ford MAF if you need one.

[Seerlah]

Use a boost controller to regulate boost. EBC is better than an MBC. Do some research on which ones work best. The most popular used on here is the Greddy Profec B, but that is not the best unit. I read the HKS EVC4 is a very good unit.

[jrock]

Greddy Profec B just posted...
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/...=26396&cat=all

[John Gutmannnn]

Am I able to run w/out on and then put one in all on the same tune? I am jw because I am trying to get it running for as little $ as possible and then fine tune everything.

Made a deal on a Ford MAF, MAF harness, walbro fuel pump, 3 bar FPR, Custom TIP w/ filter and Tial 38mm WG.... :)

Now....what else do I need? I feel like I need a DV, exhaust mani studs/nuts, exhaust mani gasket and then i am done with buying parts...

[jrock]

Its gonna be a hell of a lot safer runnin something to control the boost so youre not overboosting or anything. After spending the amount of money you have so far you mind as well shell out a little bit more to protect your investment.

[John Gutmannnn]

So is there any functionality difference between an MBC and EBC? Or is it just how the pressure is set? With an MBC how do you know what boost level you are setting it to?

BTW, I have the money to spend on either if needed I am just trying to run simple and cheap right now to get it running. And if I start simpler I can understand the system better. So if I need one I just need to decide between the types.

-John

[John Gutmannnn]

So say I have a 10 psi (whatever bar) spring in the waste gate how would I regulate down to about 5 psi? I guess you can regulate above it but I am not sure about below. I want to take baby steps with this....small tiny baby steps...I have no clue if there are maintenance items with the car or not.. so if possible I want to run it with barely any boost at first.

I have personally driven the care about 20 miles since buying it...haha

-John

[lowandslow4now]

You cant regualte boost below what the WG spring is. With some EBC you can set boost dependant on gear and also set high and low boost settings. With a MBC you just set it and forget it. With a 3071 you should be fine for 10 psi.

[John Gutmannnn]

You cant regulate boost below what the WG spring is. With some EBC you can set boost dependent on gear and also set high and low boost settings. With a MBC you just set it and forget it. With a 3071 you should be fine for 10 psi.

Even on a stock clutch? (flame on....I know) I don't need to DD the car until august so I am not worried if it burn it out..If it is in good condition when I remove it I will just sell it.

Was looking at things and forgot I still need the IC so it prolly won't be started until about the end of January now. :( Depends I need to track down people who owe me money.

[lowandslow4now]

I am still on a stock clutch I keep saying I will replace but I havent had a need to. I am running 20psi on a t3/t4 setup with no slippage. I just won't launch hard on it.

[John Gutmannnn]

Ok...NOW everything is started. Got the timing belt about 90% done today just gotta do a few quick things and then put it back together. Then I think I may run to the stealership tomorrow to pick up some coolant. Or would somewhere like napa have it. I have read things on here about napa having it but it having too much water or something.

As well as finishing the timing belt job tomorrow I want to start to tear apart everything to get my turbo mounted and run my lines. Just got a few n00b questions. If I refill w/ coolant will I have to empty it to run lines? And I am guessing i need to drain the oil to run lines for those too, correct?

Thanks and should have pics up tonight!

-John

[Seerlah]

You need to drain all fluids, install lines, then place new fluid in. Upon restarting, be sure to prime turbo by cranking the engine a few times for roughly 3 min with the fuse for the fuel pump removed (you don't want the engine to turn over). Also, leave a couple seconds between cranks and only crank for a few seconds each time. You don't want to burn out your starter. Plug the fuse for the fuel filter back in and start her up. Now, you can properly bleed the coolant system, check for any leaks, make sure she is running fine, etc.

[John Gutmannnn]

Awesome. Should be started within about 3 weeks! Just need to order a few more parts and a tune..

-John

[John Gutmannnn]

There is a black metal line on the top left of engine which is mounted to the valve cover if I remember correctly. I dunno what this line is for but was curious as to if I could move it somewhere else to clean things up?

-John

[Seerlah]

You referring to the PCV piping? You can remove it altogether and install a vented catch can setup. Use the search function to find out how people set their up. There are a couple threads on it. Since you are installing a full frame setup, you would want to remove the pcv system altogether and run a custom intake (boost controller in place of n75, but still keep it electronically plugged in and have the pcv valve removed). Then have a vented oil ctahc can setup, mounted properly.

[John Gutmannnn]

Oh wow^ alot more to that then I thought.

Here is another N00b question but I can't find any pics any where, I tried looking in lou_b5's thread but couldn't find anything....I have a couple flanges to put on the turbo/oil pan on is a female one is a male, they are the -4 AN flanges for the oil line, which one goes where? I forgot to look this part of installation up!

I still have pics on my digital camera to be uploaded, I am taking more and more everyday to show progress! Hopefully they will be up soon, thanks for the help especially Seerlah! I am so deep into this now and it seems difficult but easy to do at the same time.

So far I have the Timing belt job done! Just didn't change the thermastat yet, my mechanic helping me said I should be able to replace it from the outside of the water pump housing no problem.

The k03 in the car was a royal PITA to rip out. The thing was FILTHY! and it was a mess in there. Now I have the turbo hardware all mocked up, just need a 38mm gasket for the wastegate and will be ready to bolt things together for the last time.

Another question is about the washers that are on the stock exhaust manifold, they are extra thick washers and need to know if they are of a certain importance, and if I could get some from autozone or somewhere.

Thanks all!

-John

[Seerlah]

I am not sure about the AN fittings, I am still learning tings myself. You can maybe ask that in the regular section and recieve more resposes, if you could not find it from searching. I would get new washers from the dealership. Washers play a very important role. In this case, not for leaks as the gasket will take care of that. But you don't want the nuts to become seized to the manifold itself (plus you want the nut to spin the washer and not the manifold). And it will lay flat on the manifold without washer vs having the bolt lay on it to prevent cracking. You could resuse the washers if you want, but they should not be too expensive from the dealership. Also, use high temp antiseize on metal to metal areas (don't use a gasket on the "wastegate to manifold" and "turbo to manifold". they are known for breaking due to the heat and having peices fly into the turbo. maybe just apply a very small amount of gasket maker to create a seal). If you fear any bolts coming loose, check them periodically and eventually the anti-seize won't be so potent to loosen the bolts due to movement of the engine. You could also invest in locking tabs. Solid mounts are also a very good way to prevent bolts/nuts from coming loose (or not). Not to mention the you really want less drivetrain movement as possible.

Edit: Send a PM to A4Rob and he can move this thread to the proper section. Main mods now, the the build forum once you get the ball rolling with pics.

[Lou_B5]

Hey John,

Arnold will hook you up. Just give him a shout. He came through for me when I needed fittings for the turbo in a pinch.

In a nut shell you need these:

Oil Drain:(from turbo to oil pan)
- GT drain flang kit (drain fitting for turbo, gasket, bolts, & adapter to -10an.)
- appropriate length -10an ss braid hose for the spa mani turbo location with 2 -10an hose fittings.
- -10AN to 1/2 NPT 45 degree fitting for the oil pan.

Oil send:(from oil filter to turbo)
- 1/4NPT to -4an oil filter adapter fitting
- appropriate length -4an ss braid line to run from oil filter to turbo with 2 4an hose fittings.
- -4an oil restrictor fitting for gt28-35 turbos

Everything above can be put into a "kit" from Arnold. If it's just some pieces you need, just call and ask for the ones you need.

Good luck!

Get this thing moved over to the projects section pronto!

[John Gutmannnn]

Thanks for the list Lou! ^ But I already have all the fittings etc, its just a matter of where they go. The issue is i have 2 -4AN flanges, one male, one female and not sure which one goes where though I am sure is doesn't matter. I will try to get pics up ASAP and just found out I left my camera at the shop, and don't feel like doing work right now >_<.

Oh and Arnold is the Shit, since I can't go MAFless he says he has a new tune using the Audi V8 MAF.

-John

[Seerlah]

For your sig

Edit: Just realised, you should get a BOV (maybe the Forge 004) and mount it on the cold side piping of your intercooler.

[lowandslow4now]

Tapp is not using the lighting MAFs anymore?

[John Gutmannnn]

Here first to help with my question....for the 2 on the left, which one goes on the turbo which one goes on the oil pan? Thanks!



Now for some pron....

[Lou_B5]

looks to me that the one on the left goes on the turbo and the 2 on the right are for the oil pan.

[John Gutmannnn]

Ah! True...never thought about looking at it by just saying the oil pan needs the angle fitting! Thanks. I just need to get into the shop now.

Another question, can I rotate the compressor housing on the turbo to have the IC Piping go down more directly.

-John

[Seerlah]

There is a proper way to clocking the turbo. You are supposed to loosen the 6 bolts (do not remove) on the compressor housing and the 6 bolts on the exhaust housing to the point that you can turn them with your fingers. Then you can clock the turbo to how you want it and tighten the bolts back up.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections...ArticleID=1146

[John Gutmannnn]

Awesome thanks! I just found out I cannot get into the shop today, which means I can't work on her til friday! So, I guess I am stuck making a huge list of things to do and things to buy. >_<

-John

[John Gutmannnn]

1 question I got reminded of today is how do I run an rs4 bumper? and where is the cheapest place to get 1? I don't know what needs to be done with the IC piping that supports the snub mount.

This seems fundamental but I have never seen anything on how to.

-John

[A4Rob]

Moved to projects and builds for you John

Another question, can I rotate the compressor housing on the turbo to have the IC Piping go down more directly.

-John

John- I would not clock the turbo straight down because you will not have any room for your intake. That is why I had mine going on the outside of the frame rail.

1 question I got reminded of today is how do I run an rs4 bumper? and where is the cheapest place to get 1?n

You can try to find one here in the classifieds, or get one from www.lltek.com
This is assuming you just want a replica bumper. For OEM, go through www.achtuning.com

Good luck with the build!

Rob

[John Gutmannnn]

Thanks rob, I realized that after my question was answered, I saw its harder to reroute a 4 inch pipe. Does your intake go straight down rob or what?

So because of my pay schedule I need to send the ecu for tuning on the 18th :( but this gives me 2 more weekends to get everything set.

I am sure I wont have too much time to be on here, so for this weekend I will be trying to simplify the vacuum system to delete the PCV. I have read through both of the major threads on doing this but the only thing I am not too sure of is what to do to vent the crank case. And do I need a catch can for anything? I am sure you know all of this Rob.

Next will be mounting everything up (turbo, mani, wg, dv, injectors, maybe fpr) and maybe swap in a new fuel filter, any other maintenance items in this area?

Oh and I need a vagcom or cable or whatev it is. I understand what vagcom is I just don't know specifics, I could couldn't find anything helping me on google, any help here? I know I am gonna have TONS of issues getting this running strong because I have no clue if there we any issues before I tore this apart. Also, what about tests should I run while getting ready to start up or what to check when I do start it up to make sure everything is to par. I think I will change my plugs too, but while they are out I figure I can do a compression test (thats where you access the cylinders from right?) too.

What plugs should I run, I remember reading things about a bosch or ngk i think.

I know this is a big post, so thanks for any help or even reading it, I am kind of throwing everything in one place for myself as well so I can read back through.

Thanks!
John

[Seerlah]

I am no expert, but the simplest way to install a vented catch can setup in place of the pcv sustem. Instead of having the blow by gases rerouted into your intake system, you simply filter it and have it vent into the atmosphere, via vented catch can setup. You would get rid of the pcv and system altogether. Also, no n75 bung in your custom intake, but you would instead be using a boost controller (keep n75 plugged in electronically). THere are various places that sell ctach cans, but you need to get one that our cars like. Not all catch cans are really universal. You can send a PM to Issam@034, and he should help you out with anything related to your build that you would need help on. Really good person.

I did a quick search, but can not find it. There is a thread where people posted up pics of their catch can setups. If you can find it, it will give you an idea on how you may want to route it, mount it, etc.

As for the VAG Com, it is a software made by Ross-Tech. It is a diagnostic tool that permits you to do many things, like look up fault codes, recode the ECU, log blocks, etc. I have an ebay cable and the 311 software from Ross Tech. I would suggest you get the actual cable from Ross Tech and you can download any of their programs you want. This link should answer all your VAG questions. If you need to know which block to log and so forth, it can be found on this website. Along with many things, like the fault code def, how to diagnose them, etc.

Read here on how to ptoperly conduct a compression test. And yes, you acess the cylinders from the spark plug sockets.

[CrtchRktRcr]

your springs suck! i hate them

good luck with your build

[Gaberossi]

is it me or is that green coolant on the ground

[John Gutmannnn]

is it me or is that green coolant on the ground

Yea, there was a leak somewhere I think because I got the car with a bottle in the trunk. I am hoping no serious corrosion was caused, I never thought to check on that, but how would I check?

Seerlah do you know if I would be able to just hook a hose up to the crank case to get it running? I wont be driving the car for a while. I still need a clutch and need to do something about my syncros in second. I don't know if I just want to get a new tranny and take a $700 short cut or if the 2nd gear is at the top of the stack and easy to get to. Anybody good with these trannies? Could I pull a whole shaft assembled and ship it somewhere?

-John

[PoormansA4]

is it me or is that green coolant on the ground

lol i noticed that too

[A4Rob]

Thanks rob, I realized that after my question was answered, I saw its harder to reroute a 4 inch pipe. Does your intake go straight down rob or what?

Yes my intake went straight down. Search Chris Tapp intake and you will find a whole thread dedicated to it.

And do I need a catch can for anything? I am sure you know all of this Rob.

I ran mine off the block to the 034 vortex can.

Oh and I need a vagcom or cable or whatev it is. I understand what vagcom is I just don't know specifics, I could couldn't find anything helping me on google, any help here? I know I am gonna have TONS of issues getting this running strong because I have no clue if there we any issues before I tore this apart. Also, what about tests should I run while getting ready to start up or what to check when I do start it up to make sure everything is to par. I think I will change my plugs too, but while they are out I figure I can do a compression test (thats where you access the cylinders from right?) too.

Pull your spark plugs out. That is the easiest way.

What plugs should I run, I remember reading things about a bosch or ngk i think.

NGK BRK7e or the Bosch Tri-electrode plugs (034 has them)

[John Gutmannnn]

Thanks Rob looks like I will be making an 034 order soon.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235116

Rob few questions about your vacuum system, in the link about how did you connect the "vacuum generater in exhaust"? And I have read things about when you remove the charcoal canister your car will smell like gas fumes or smell like something, does yours?

OR

Can I simply run a rubber hose to the PCV from the crank case breather? since I need to remove the hardline in the following picture, thus eliminating the need for me to delete the system, and I can do it later when things run correctly.



BTW I may have mentioned but this WILL have to be a DD by august at the latest.

Anybody know anything else I should order at the same time? Not to sure all I'll need but this will be probably my last order before I start the car.

Heading to the shop in about 3 hours lets see what gets done...

-John

[A4Rob]

Since you are a 98, you do not have SAI or the vac in exhaust. I pulled everything out. capped the evap ends and just run a crankcase vent to my catch can. I removed the gas tank check valves and ran it vented. I do not get a gas smell when the car is on.

The only code I throw is open circuit for evap system. No biggie

Since I do not have emissions testing here in MN it does not matter if I run a CEL.