So it has officially begun as the GT2560's (aka GT28r's) have arrived! The motor was already out as I was doing the JHM trans rebuild, Vast stage 3 clutch, and JHM solid linkage/shifter upgrade. Now it's turned into a bit more than that....I'm going to be doing the turbos with custom inlets and custom exhaust, 63lb injectors (already installed as of yesterday), 90mm MAF, and probably custom diy ecu tuning.
I know, I know, why am I not tearing into the motor like I should be... I dont have the additional cash at the current time as it was difficult enough to fund what I've done so far. I plan on rods, bearings, headwork, etc... maybe in a year or two. I'm sure that even on conservative lower boost I'll have an acceptable power increase over my K03's!
Im really excited and had to make a thread to let everyone in on my project. I'll keep you posted as I make progress... So here are some pictures of the progress from the past few weeks!! Dont laugh at my homebrew wooden engine stand. I needed a small platform to work on so I made this thing real quick!
Any issues hooking up the new oil and water lines?
Oil and Water lines have not presented any major issues so far. The eliminators come with new braided stainless oil line that is flexible and able to be routed as you see fit. Water lines are easy too and use silicone hose. I didnt re-use any of the stock lines except the oil return. I'll try to post a few pictures later in the day.
Nice! Trust me when I say you're going to be kicking yourself for not doing rods while you had it out. I know you're low on cash because of all the stuff that you bought, but if it were me I'd wait and save a little longer and do just rods and new bearings, leave the head and everything else stock. The labor you're doing is worth a couple of thousand dollars to pull everything, and those are big turbos that'll kick in later and kick in hard. Wrong turbo selection IMO if you're going to run those de-tuned at KO4 levels, unless for some reason you want to drive laggy KO4's and enjoy pulling the motor a second time if/when you do rods/etc. Just my opinion though.
And you've already installed all the oil/coolant lines that they supplied for the turbos and there was zero issues on length or anything else? Just double checking cause I've got the same lines and the other people that have installed the eliminators had to modify their lines.
And you've already installed all the oil/coolant lines that they supplied for the turbos and there was zero issues on length or anything else? Just double checking cause I've got the same lines and the other people that have installed the eliminators had to modify their lines.
Im working on the oil/coolant lines right now. I have had issues with length of the coolant lines. The passenger side was too long and had to be cut back about 3 inches (not a problem as its just silicone hose). The driver's side is a bit too short and I'll need to lengthen it by a few inches. Not difficult stuff...i've got a few feet of various size silicone tubing on the way that should get the job done. Also, the passenger side turbo/wastegate actuator is really close to the starter! I actually had to turn the compressor housing a few degrees to get clearance.
Originally, I was going to do this build on the stock s4 internals without upgrading the rods. I've decided that while the motor is out, apart, and I have the time, I should do rods, bearings, rings, and inspect/replace things as needed. So today, I spent a few hours tearing further into the disassembly than I've ever gone before! Here are some pictures.
Those of you that have installed connecting rods, do you have any words of wisdom? Any problems that you encountered with your engine or things to watch out for?
Lastly, what connecting rods would you recommend? My first choice is probably IE, but i've been looking at the Pauter's and Carrillo's. Are they worth the extra cash? Has anyone had problems with their IE's (I've yet to hear of any issues with em)?
fuel rail and intake manifold are easy once the wiring harness is off. Probably only took 30 minutes to remove em. Just unbolt the fuel rail and wiggle it out with all the hoses attached, then unbolt the manifold and it comes right off, pretty straight forward. Just be careful not to drop anything in the ports or injector holes!!!
I remove parts with as few disconnections as possible so that when you're assembling things weeks or months later it's easier to remember where things went and in what order. Plenty of notes, plastic baggys, labels, and pictures on my cell phone too!
So I sent an email to carrillo to see how much a set of rods would cost for the 2.7t. Their website said rods for this engine are considered a "custom" build. I got my reply today...$399 PER ROD with a 5-6 week wait. Needless to say, I don't think I'll be placing an order for those! So after looking at the rest of the available options I've decided that IE's will be fine. Placed my order today.
The engine is just about completely apart. I'm waiting on my poly drive tool from snap-on. I cant get the heads off till I have it.
Nice! Trust me when I say you're going to be kicking yourself for not doing rods while you had it out. I know you're low on cash because of all the stuff that you bought, but if it were me I'd wait and save a little longer and do just rods and new bearings, leave the head and everything else stock. The labor you're doing is worth a couple of thousand dollars to pull everything, and those are big turbos that'll kick in later and kick in hard. Wrong turbo selection IMO if you're going to run those de-tuned at KO4 levels, unless for some reason you want to drive laggy KO4's and enjoy pulling the motor a second time if/when you do rods/etc. Just my opinion though.
not necessarily true.
he could tune these turbo's to 450whp on (guesstimate here) 18psi and with the later torque spike he wont be in any danger of snapping a rod. the only thing he would need to worry about is making sure the tune is spot on as to not run into any sort of detonation in the higher rpms.
he would be making more than k04 racegas power and he wouldn't be ragging out the turbo's/intercoolers like you do on k04's at ~24psi.
but OP, great job in deciding to do rods at this point. trying to hold back your power thurst is almost impossible when you know with the turn of a knob there could be more.
Finally got my bearings, gaskets, bolts, and etc... for the rod swap/engine rebuild. My IE rods should be here by Monday! Once I have everything here I'm dropping off the rotating assembly to be balanced.
The last week or so has been slow. I couldn't do to much till the parts arrived. Soon the reassembly will begin. I'll post some pictures when I'm putting it all back together.
he could tune these turbo's to 450whp on (guesstimate here) 18psi and with the later torque spike he wont be in any danger of snapping a rod. the only thing he would need to worry about is making sure the tune is spot on as to not run into any sort of detonation in the higher rpms.
he would be making more than k04 racegas power and he wouldn't be ragging out the turbo's/intercoolers like you do on k04's at ~24psi.
but OP, great job in deciding to do rods at this point. trying to hold back your power thurst is almost impossible when you know with the turn of a knob there could be more.
What's not necessarily true? What I said was an opinion, so it can't be objectively true or false. If it were me, I'd be kicking myself later down the road if I didn't rods with these big turbos when he had it apart already, considering the money he's already spent for the power. If you're saying that it's not necessarily true when I said, "Wrong turbo selection IMO if you're going to run those de-tuned at KO4 levels, unless for some reason you want to drive laggy KO4's and enjoy pulling the motor a second time if/when you do rods/etc. Just my opinion though," again, it's my opinion and I do believe that if one's intent is to run a GT turbo on a stock block at KO4 racegas level, then he made the wrong turbo selection. I'd have gone with the GT2554 instead if that were the case because there's no point in using bigger turbos that are laggier with higher power potential if you're just going to cap that power anyways. GT2554's will make 450whp on a stock block, and much sooner than the 2560's. I'm glad the OP decided to do rods now though, cause it just makes sense to do it now when you've already done $2k+ worth of labor alone.
And BTW, I'm not saying that what you described isn't true or possible, just restating my opinion that if one were to go that route with these turbos, it'd be a waste IMO because now he'll likely see over 500whp by being able to use these turbo's at their potential with the upgraded rods.
Got the rods!!! My rotating assembly is being balanced now, should be done sometime next week. Pictures during the install!
QUESTION!!! I have 63lb injectors. I was originally thinking pump gas... What injector size would I need for E85???
Much bigger than the 63lbers. I'm hoping I will be able to run the 83lb EV14 injectors with E85 on my GT2860-7 setup (smaller turbo than yours), but I'm afraid I'll prob have to go 1000cc.
this is an awesome build, can you estimate the cost of this? i am trying to save up for a build like this one day.. get my engine back to 0 miles lol
Hmmm...a part of me doesn't even want to know what the total is so far!
Trans rebuild - $1200
New clutch - $750
GT Eliminators - $3400
Fuel Injectors - $350
IE Rods - $850
Main and Rod Bearings - $350
Bolts - $150
Seals, Head Gaskets, misc Gaskets - $350
Rotating Assembly Balance - $350
Intake piping, couplers, clamps - $300
Total so far ABOUT $8100.
Remember these are just off the top of my head estimates on what I've bought so far. I've done EVERYTHING myself, so no labor costs (except balancing the rotating assembly)! I will still need to purchase more also. I expect about another 1-2k should finish it up. Tuning would add more also.
Hmmm...a part of me doesn't even want to know what the total is so far!
Trans rebuild - $1200
New clutch - $750
GT Eliminators - $3400
Fuel Injectors - $350
IE Rods - $850
Main and Rod Bearings - $350
Bolts - $150
Seals, Head Gaskets, misc Gaskets - $350
Rotating Assembly Balance - $350
Intake piping, couplers, clamps - $300
Total so far ABOUT $8100.
Remember these are just off the top of my head estimates on what I've bought so far. I've done EVERYTHING myself, so no labor costs (except balancing the rotating assembly)! I will still need to purchase more also. I expect about another 1-2k should finish it up. Tuning would add more also.
Yeah, the small stuff adds up for sure. Just for reference for other people looking at that list, other stuff you'll need/want if you're going from stock are intercooler(s), cat-back, downpipes, new engine/tranny mounts, and you'll need to flesh out the fueling kit (MAF, tune). Crazy how expensive these cars are to build even if you're doing 99% of the labor!
Yeah, the small stuff adds up for sure. Just for reference for other people looking at that list, other stuff you'll need/want if you're going from stock are intercooler(s), cat-back, downpipes, new engine/tranny mounts, and you'll need to flesh out the fueling kit (MAF, tune). Crazy how expensive these cars are to build even if you're doing 99% of the labor!
OH yea, almost forgot bout the motor, trans, and snub mount. I already have a jhm fmic, forge dv's, and I'm custom making a full exhaust system. Just think how cool its gonna be when it's all done!!! haha
since i have a new tranny , stage 4 clutch , stern track mounts, 034 snub. ect ec.t cat back ... and shitting test pipes to gutted dps.
i would want new intercoolers , 3 inch dps and all the other stuff on the list..
ugh like 10k would be a good loan :) .. i would try to do this myself also.. how much labor would u be looking at for a build from like EPL tuning?
probly pretty close to $5k. It's around $2000-$2500 for motor pull/turbos, plus you gotta pay for the labor to build the motor.
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The motor was already out as I was doing the JHM trans rebuild, Vast stage 3 clutch, and JHM solid linkage/shifter upgrade. Now it's turned into a bit more than that....I'm going to be doing the turbos with custom inlets and custom exhaust, 63lb injectors (already installed as of yesterday), 90mm MAF, and probably custom diy ecu tuning. 
I dont have the additional cash at the current time as it was difficult enough to fund what I've done so far. I plan on rods, bearings, headwork, etc... maybe in a year or two. I'm sure that even on conservative lower boost I'll have an acceptable power increase over my K03's!
So here are some pictures of the progress from the past few weeks!! Dont laugh at my homebrew wooden engine stand. I needed a small platform to work on so I made this thing real quick! 
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Originally Posted by S4NORICE
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