Yeah dude if they are selling it as a part of a kit to work with the spa mani then they should own up and get you something that fits or your $ back.
custom fabrication ftw
My sentiments exactly… while I have had a few issues with the quality of 034's work, so far they have been more than willing to make it right. Which I really appreciate…
And again, I can't say enough good things about Joe @ Axis Motorsports. I highly recommend anyone looking for performance parts to give him a call. While his website leaves a bit to be desired, he can get most anything for your build at great prices and most likely with free shipping!!! Not only that, he doesn't bail on you once the sale is complete... which by far is the most important element to a great company!
Hope I didn't sound to much like a commercial there. I am just very happy with the service and support from someone who doesn't know me from Adam, but still seems to care about my build and it's success.
I'll see the pics when I get home tonight. LOL with the dremel catching fire. Can you get an exchange?
Yeah... It's funny because I don't have a very good sense of smell, and my Hetro-Life-Mate steped out into the garage and said it smelled real bad, like somethings burning. I figured it was the paint or steel I was cutting...
So I marched on... I was using the bendy extension thingy so I didin't have my eyes on the Dremel tool itself. Then all of the sudden the dremel started to slow and tons of smoke came out of the thing!!! Needless to say, it won't even turn on now.
It's under a manufactures warranty, but I don't want to wait. I'm going to try and exchange it tonight at my local big box store where I bought it.
Here are the drawings I made for the catch can bracket. It's nothing special, but it does work and could save you a little time if you're thinking about doing the same thing. PM me for PDF's if interested...
I have the drawings for an alternate design (shown below), but decided not to use it due to the fact that the 034 catch can already has a simple flange welded to the can for attachment.
I did make a prototype to hold a 4" diameter can (1" to big for my setup) if anyone is interested? I'll put up a picture tonight.
I mostly use Solidworks and Mastercam, but I am on the other end of the process. You=Engineer?....Me=Machinist.
Omnia? I am using the Mr.Capcom ROM right now. I also have Manilla loaded so I can switch to TouchFlo just to make people jealous. Stoopid damn Iphone..
I am too lazy nowadays to do anything on a manual mill for the simple fact that I hate cleaning up a half mile radius of chips. I will do almost everything on a CNC.
I also have a arsenal of water jets at my disposal. Thats what I used to cut the clamp. I would say from design to jet cut parts to CNC finished part was ~20mins. Our anodizer takes about a day or two, and my company lets me throw stuff in since we anodize so much stuff anyhow.
Does that blazingwolf use the Titanium GUI? link? <------NVM, you go to the same place I do apparently
Last edited by SpeedWorksAuto; 12-04-2009 at 11:49 AM.
Reason: add
I am too lazt nowadays to do anything on a manual mill for the simple fact that I hate cleaning up a half mile radius of chips. I will do almost everything on a CNC.
I also have a arsenal of water jets at my disposal. Thats what I used to cut the clamp. I would say from design to jet cut parts to CNC finished part was ~20mins. Our anodizer takes about a day or two, and my company lets me throw stuff in since we anodize so much stuff anyhow.
Does that blazingwolf use the Titanium GUI? link? <------NVM, you go to the same place I do apparently
I wish I had that kind of access to equipment... I'm a little jealous!
Last edited by A4DRIVR; 12-04-2009 at 12:14 PM.
Reason: Removing unnecessary off-topic jibber jabber
So I didn't get much time to work on the beast this weekend... I have a feeling with all of the family and holiday activities planned for December, I may not get a whole lot done.
Anyway, so last night I torqued (as best as I could) the motor to the bell housing. Routed most of the wiring harness and plugged it in. Yoinked out the faulty 034 downpipe.
I took some comparison shots... the one on the left with the exhaust wrap is the old one:
So this isn't a scientific comparision... but you can obviously see that there is some difference. There was still some minor misalignment between the flanges upon initial bolt up, but everything clamped down just fine... at least so I think. We'll find out once the car starts up!
I did have one last issue with the downpipe... now that everything up top bolts down, the exhaust hanger attachment at the bottom no longer lines up. Not nearly as big a deal... that is something I can deal with on the car. I'll have the shop who creates my exhaust adapter, alter this to fit correctly.
So... i haven't touched the car since Sunday. But I have been mulling over my vacuum routing for both the N75 and the BOV.
In my haste to get the intake manifold out for powder coat, I pulled out two of the vacuum ports and plugged them with standard set screws. Well, now I realize that I need those vacuum taps for both the N75 and BOV!!!
Looks like I'm going to have to pull the intake manifold off and tapp out the holes with an NPT style tap and insert barbed fittings. Sucks... I hate doing things twice, and the only person I can blame is myself!
Last night a spent a couple hours trying to figure out a better way to route the oil and coolant lines on the turbo. I probably took the turbo on and off about 20 times!!!
So.. since 034 didn't include any photos of how to install the lines, you pretty much have to guess. You obviously can figure out which are coolant versus oil, and even the coolant lines are pretty much self explanatory on which fittings go where. However, the handfull of fittings you are given for the oil drain line can be assembled in multiple configurations! So I had three goals, First to clock the turbo in a manner which provided the most vertical orientation of the oil supply, second to reroute the coolant supply line so as not to be an eye sore to the engine compartment (or touch the air filter), and last was to configure the oil drain line to avoid contact with the exhaust manifold as well as provide maximum ground clearance.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
I think I did figure out 034's intentions for the oil drain line... It turns out due to shape of the exh. manifold, the oil drain line determines just how your are going to clock the turbo. The fittings just barely fit around the compressor side of the turbo, and barely clear the exhaust manifold. Previously I had placed a 45 degree fitting between the turbo and oil drain line, then attached the non-rigid end to this, which worked fairly well, but did interfere slightly with the compressor housing. This also meant that I was using the straight adapter on the bottom of the line at the oil pan. This simple fact reduced my ground clearance ever so slightly, but still remained a valid concern to me. Therefore, I flipped the line and fittings, placing the straight NPT adapter in the turbo housing to the rigid (pre-bent hard line) end of the drain line. Clearance is a maximum of 1~2mm from the exhaust manifold, but since this is the rigid end, should not ever touch. Then I placed the 45-degree NPT adapter into the oil pan adapter and connected the drain line. I feel much better about this orientation.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to secure the SS lines together? Should I add additional heat protection to these lines?
I also started to install the FMIC, but due to the time I didn't get very far. It was to late to fire up the compressor and whiz wheel, might of had some angry knocks on my door!
We also had to swap out the straight npt with a 45 for the oil pan drain fitting. Not sure why they would not just kit them correctly. Second vendor to do that I see.
Original plan was to add a BOV to the cold side of the FMIC, which would require purchsing an expensive Tail BOV and having a flange welded to the hard pipe. This added some expense, as well as time and material (since I would have to take it somewhere to have it welded). I think this is still my final plan... but for now, to keep the ball rolling:
I have decided to purchase a Forge DV004 BOV which will fit in the 034 hotside pipe I already have. ECS has a killer deal on them new right now and included free shipping. I needed a few other items from them as well... so I placed the order this morning.
With this minor detail behind me I can move on to other important aspects of the build...
I just picked that up that same one from Forge yesterday! What spring did you get? The yellow one is good for up to 23psi and the blue one is 23-29 psi.
Well... I test fit the 004 BOV valve in the 034 hot side pipe.
The port on the silicon tube is pointing directly at the front of the car which places the BOV snuggly against the core support. Not sure if I like this... I'm going to have a look at my hot side piping layout to see if I can fix this. I'll post up some pics in the very near future...
Here's a shot of the car from the "hot side" so you can get an idea of how the 034 pipe is routed:
Last edited by A4DRIVR; 12-23-2009 at 11:07 AM.
Reason: Add pic of "Hot Side"
Do you have enough room to remove the filter without having to take off the from end? Hard to tell with the picture but it sure does look close.
Easily.... NO!
I think I will be able to flex the base of the filter enough to remove it. Just not exactly sure how I will get it back on. It definately won't be easy.
I've always accepted little nuances like this to be par for the course for custom applications... If it becomes a huge headache, I'll start investigating a shorter filter element.
Becarefull when selecting a shorter filter. I may run into this when on the dyno but the filter needs to be big enough to flow the hp you are looking for. too small can restrict the flow. That is why I picked that green one to begin with but unfortunatly did not realize how big it was in the bay without having the engine in it.
First, I removed the intake manifold and tapped a 1/8 NPT in the place of the factory vacuum port I removed (duhh!).
After reinstalling the manifold... I moved over to the passenger side of the engine compartment and installed the catch can.
I used 1" silicone hose to attach the catch can to the modified factory hard line. What I did was cut off the remainder of the hard line, then used a small piece of 3/4" (ID) hose to space out the OD of the hard line to match up with the ID of the silicon hose. Worked like a charm.
I also plumbed in the N75 valve... using the port I put back in the intake manifold (shown above). If you look in the previous picture, you can see how I utilized some of the OEM hard vacuum lines and bracket to route the lines for the N75 connections.
I also used a section of 1/2 heater hose to eliminate the molded rubber section of hose just before the suction pump.
Then something else worth mentioning... the small formed rubber hose which leads from the suction pump down underneath the intake manifold and connects to the crankcase vent system was toast. A replacement from the dealer was $40 plus dollars, and most internet site it was 25 plus shipping. SO I went to my LAPS and browsed their replacement preformed hoses until I found something that had the bends I needed, and whala! I just trimmed out the section of the preformed hose that worked and Im in business... not to mention, the hose was only $14.00.
I just keep chipping away at it!!!
Now all I think I have left is:
1) Plug bottom of catch can;
2) Fix downpipe attachment at transmission;
3) Fab exhaust adapter;
4) Re-fabricate hot-side FMIC plumbing (didn't like original routing, and had to order more parts)
5) Install fuel pump (need to borrow or make special tool);
6) Top off oil;
7) Install valve cover and gasket;
8) Fix some cosmetic crap (not so important right now)...
Heres my new dilemma same as Lou's
Well heres the HKS super mega flow fail. Guess Im going to have to figure out what to do for an intake too, Lou you want to sell me some of your filter so I dont have to shred my K&N aswell?
so the issue is that the hks requires a coupling to mount it? I think thats a decent idea, it allows you to fit the length of the mount to each application.
I've just realized that I hooked my N75 valve up incorrectly... I need to tap into the intake tract before the throttle body!
Not sure what just made me think of this... but glad I did!
I'm currious to see how you could pump out 400whp with the n75 hooked up. It would be pretty cool if you did!
Originally Posted by Oceanside
Heres my new dilemma same as Lou's
Well heres the HKS super mega flow fail. Guess Im going to have to figure out what to do for an intake too, Lou you want to sell me some of your filter so I dont have to shred my K&N aswell?
lol. You don't even have the headlight on yet! You got PM.
Originally Posted by Lou_B5
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