DIY: B6/B7 Replacing stock sub woofer

[jackp311]

To those of you who have done this before: If that sub was 2-1/4" inches deeper, do you think you could still get the enclosure back in? I want to know if I am limited to shallow mount subs.

[405Z]

To those of you who have done this before: If that sub was 2-1/4" inches deeper, do you think you could still get the enclosure back in? I want to know if I am limited to shallow mount subs.

It just barely fits as is, so I think the answer would be no.

I had an Infinity Basslink but it took up too much trunk space, so I decided to try this out. The Infinity had a lot of bass. This comes nowhere close, but that's not surprising since it's only 8" and free air. The problem I have is when turning up the bass, there is a lot of rattling and resonating from the rear shelf. Some bass heavy music sounds terrible because of this. I think I'm going to try adding some Dynamat to see if that helps.

[Club Cheetah]

Barely. It almost wouldn't slide back in and I now have a sub in the way in my trunk if I want to put stuff back there. I don't really have any problems with it but I could see how it could be a PITA.

[Club Cheetah]

So after a few months of procrastinating I finally got around to getting the amp.

Question for the OP...

When you installed it using the speaker line as the input how did you wire it? The amp I got came with a plug with four wires. Which two do I actually use?

[diaftia]

So after a few months of procrastinating I finally got around to getting the amp.

Question for the OP...

When you installed it using the speaker line as the input how did you wire it? The amp I got came with a plug with four wires. Which two do I actually use?

Most amps, to bridge them and run in mono operation, use left negative and right positive. Leave the other two free.

[b spot]

I had a Focal in the trunk for quite a while, I spliced the line inputs to the stock amp to run it. I want the space back though, so I ripped it out.

I just found a used TS-SW841D locally, grabbing it for $75 (They go for $130+ up here. We get ripped off). I'm going to try wire it in to the Bose amp for kicks, and then to my tiny little 160W Coustic and I'll let you know if I notice much difference.

[my1stturbo]

I plan to install that same Pioneer sub with btwn 150-200 watts going to it. I'm still undecided about whether or not i'll be leaving the fronts running off the II+ or if i'll get a 4 channel amp and use 2 channels for the front and bridge the last 2.

[dparm]

Dedicated amp will always sound better.

[my1stturbo]

Dedicated amp will always sound better.

Oh, I don't doubt you for a minute. It's just been trying to find an amp that will power the fronts w/ the recommended RMS wattage (90 at 4 ohms) and then getting the sub it's 200. I've found a few 100x4 amps that I'm considering, just have to settle on 1 or get a mono amp for the sub and revisit the fronts down the line.

[Lefthook]

Hmm. I'm going to have to go pull apart the sub on my Avant and see if it's the same sub just in a different location. This seems like a good cheap quick upgrade to the audio.

[b spot]

So I have no idea how you guys made your silicone seal, so I went a different route. Everything else is the same, but I left the rubber seal that comes with the sub on. Obviously this is too thick to have the bottom bracket clip in, so I drilled 4 holes through the assembly and screwed it together to have a nice sandwich with the rubber seal to dampen it. Any other way I tried it I had crazy vibrations. This picture isn't mine, but here is where I put the screws through, from the bottom to the top:



It sounds pretty good. Definitely has much better range. If you're looking to go showtime with this and crank your gain highschool style, it's going to rattle and not sound that great. That wasn't what I was going for, and within reasonable operating range it sounds much better than stock, with deeper and louder bass.

Also FYI, I'm running this off a tiny little 160W Coustic amp. With the gain turned to zero, it's still louder than stock. I don't think I'd really want to throw much amp at this or else you may have to crank the bass on the HU way down, which will drop a lot of the lower mids upper bass from the rest of your system and sound like suck.

[b spot]

On second opinion I wouldn't do this again. Some songs are brutal because of the rear deck rattling. Any ideas?

[405Z]

On second opinion I wouldn't do this again. Some songs are brutal because of the rear deck rattling. Any ideas?

Same problem here. I tried applying Dynamat to the rear deck but it only helped somewhat, with bass heavy songs still sounding terrible. I eventually removed the sub and went with a Pioneer shallow mount in an enclosure in the trunk. It takes up very little space and sounds great.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ount/TS-SWX251

[my1stturbo]

Same problem here. I tried applying Dynamat to the rear deck but it only helped somewhat, with bass heavy songs still sounding terrible. I eventually removed the sub and went with a Pioneer shallow mount in an enclosure in the trunk. It takes up very little space and sounds great.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ount/TS-SWX251

That's a shame to hear. I was planning on going this route in the spring w/ a few layers of dynamat and some type of padding to account for the rear parcel shelf.

[b spot]

Update:

I spent about 15 minutes shoving rags under the rear deck and have the rattles 90% eliminated. A lot were from the wires leading up to the brake light and trunk light assemblies. I'm actually pretty happy with it now, you can have the bass up pretty loud and it still sounds pretty good, even though normally I don't like to have the sub super loud.

[SacAudi]

trying to decide what is better to do... a shallow mount sub and box wont take up that much room in the trunk and probably cost near the same... i dont want my rear deck rattling...