This is something that should be learned by any car owner. It is fairly simple and takes no more than 30 min to do. My advice for anybody doing their own oil changes is to use Full Synthetic Motor Oil (Group IV) and a relaible filter. Also, you should make it a habit to change the motor oil no longer than every 5,000 miles.
On a scale from 1-5 with 5 being the hardest, this is a 1
Tools Required
4.3 Quarts of Motor Oil (my car takes 4 exact)
1 Oil Filter
Filter Tool
Flathead Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
3/4" wrench (AWM; not sure if the AEB bottom end uses a different size)
New Drain Plug Washer
Something to Catch the Oil
Jack Stands and Hydraulic Jack/Rhino Ramps
First, you will need to raise the front end. You will also need to have the car level with the ground to get out as much oil as possible. After you do this, take off your belly pan (you will need the flat head screw driver for this).
Get all your stuff ready
Locate the drain plug on the oil pan (on passenger's side of oil pan)
I forgot to take a picture of this step, but you will need to do the following (I will replace this step with a pic upon my next oil change): Remove the crankcase cap (make sure nothing enters the crank case), place whatever you will use to catch the oil with underneath the drain plug (note that it will intitially shoot out maybe 6 inches from the pressure then slow down), remove drain plug (3/4" wrench) and drain oil. Let it sit for maybe 10 min to get out as much as possible.
Locate your coolant resevoir and the 3 phillip's screws that hold it in place. You will want to unscrew those, gently move the resevoir to the right side (make sure not to rip any hoses) and unclip the coolant level sensor from underneath the resevoir.
Removing the filter from the top is the easiest way to do it, but you need to move the coolant resevoir to make room to get to it. Take your filter tool and remove the oil filter. Use the tool to loosen it, then undo the rest by hand (I place a couple rags under the filter to absorb any spilliage which may occur). This can be done while the oil is draining.
Place new washer on the drain plug and tightly place the drain plug back. Replace the oil filter (prime the oil filter by filling it 3/4 way full before installing and lubricate the top portion on the threads and around the rubber seal). Place the filter on by hand till you can't turn it anymore, tighten it fully with the filter tool, then loosen it 3/4 turn. Then fill the crank case with 4 quarts of motor oil. Then add more as necessary to reach the desired oil level (mine takes 4 exact). Make sure that you have the crank case cap on before cranking the car
Place bellypan back on and you're done. Oh yeah, I know my engine bay can use a nice cleaning.
*discalimer: Neither I, Audizine, nor any of it's members are responsible for any mishaps which may incur when following this DIY
Last edited by Seerlah; 08-06-2009 at 05:46 PM.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Your welcome. That is the main reason I made this DIY, for people to learn to do it on their own. Better to have a DIY than have someone be called a noob when they ask.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
i find it impossible to get the filter off without spilling. ive tried from the top and bottom and wrap it in bags but it always spills out
Jack up the passenger side of the car (only) to get the top of the filter at a better angle. Jack the other side up or lower the car and use an oil extractor to drain/remove your oil once the old filter is removed.
Current '08 A6 Avant S-Line
Former '99 A4 Avant 1.8t
Make sure to put oil on the filter seal to make removal easier next time.
Also you can just put filter back on hand tight.
One more thing, if who ever did your oil before you bought the car or before you did it yourself put the filter on way to tight and you break the filter removal tool before it comes out. Stick a screw driver through the filter and twist, messy but it works.
Hopefully this stops all "HELP how do I change my oil" threads
Make sure to put oil on the filter seal to make removal easier next time.
Also you can just put filter back on hand tight.
One more thing, if who ever did your oil before you bought the car or before you did it yourself put the filter on way to tight and you break the filter removal tool before it comes out. Stick a screw driver through the filter and twist, messy but it works.
Hopefully this stops all "HELP how do I change my oil" threads
I just added the oil on the seals of the filter. Forgot to add that. And everytime I don't use the tool, the filter leaks on me.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Jack up the passenger side of the car (only) to get the top of the filter at a better angle. Jack the other side up or lower the car and use an oil extractor to drain/remove your oil once the old filter is removed.
youre saying lift the passenger side and then remove it or remove it after both sides are lifted? use the oil extractor where? down the dipstick tube? how would that empty the filter?
This is what I do when I change my oil. First jack up the passenger side of the car only. Remove the old filter. Then I lower the car and use my oil extractor through the dip stick tube to remove the oil. This takes around 10-15 minutes or so and during that time I install the new filter and check/clean up the engine bay.
If I didn't have the oil extractor I would jack up the drivers side as well once the old filter was removed and take off the skid plate and drain the oil.
Current '08 A6 Avant S-Line
Former '99 A4 Avant 1.8t
I am rather timid to spray my engine bay with water. That is the only thing holding me back. I would bring it to a professional to do it, but I have a feeling they would f*ck my car up. But yes, my engine def needs a good cleaning. It is not that special as of right now, so I will just spray it with engine degreaser and lightly spray it away. Then hand wipe the valve cover. Might do that next week or so.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Amsoil (where I purchase mine from with preferred customer pricing) is my personal preferance. I have thier tranny fluid and rear diff fluid also. When I run out of Mann filters (one more left), I am going to start using their oil filters also. I would sugest either Amsoil, Motul, Redline, Elf, Mobil 1 Euro Blend, or Royal Purple for motor oils. Castrol Edge also claims to be full synthetic, but I have not read any reviews on it yet on the A4.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
i clean mine ever 3 months.. then winter comes i clean it come spring..
What process do you use when cleaning your engine bay? The carbon deposit build up in my engine bay is rather ridiculous.
Edit: What do I need to do? I was going to cover the valve cover and alternator, just spray the engine bay with degreaser, then lightly sprinkle it clean with the garden hose. Then had wipe the valve cover with degreaser on a rag. I have read where people go to town though. Using a scrub brush and all, but I think non-dilluted engine degreaser will suffice. I don't own a show car.
Last edited by Seerlah; 08-07-2009 at 07:20 AM.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Cleaning Engine Bay = No Touch Tire Foam, sit for 20 minutes, light mist spray with the hose to rinse it off. Everything will look brand new guaranteed.
That my recipe for years, never had a problem. Now if you try to hose off a hot manifold or try to wash out you alternator and coils, well, your just asking for it.
I take an empty 1gal milk jug and cut the top off so the filter drops into the jug. Since the container is plastic, you can push and get it into the engine bay without any issues.
You can sit the milk jug in the engine as you take the filter off. Then removal just requires you to slowly pull the jug out. Even draining the oil is easier!
If we drive like we're in Colin McRae's rally car is hand tight good enough?
(serious question, I don't really slow down on speed bumps, oops.)
Yes it says right on the oem filter to tighten it by hand. That way when its time to change it you don't have to hack it up with pliers you can just use your hands.
Yes it says right on the oem filter to tighten it by hand. That way when its time to change it you don't have to hack it up with pliers you can just use your hands.
Thanks, yeah the shop that changed my oil before had it on so tight I thought the wrench was going to break long before I got that thing loose. Eventually I go it though, the screw on the oil pan was damn near impossible too. Stupid air compressor tools mechanics have. Haha.
Amsoil (where I purchase mine from with preferred customer pricing) is my personal preferance. I have thier tranny fluid and rear diff fluid also. When I run out of Mann filters (one more left), I am going to start using their oil filters also. I would sugest either Amsoil, Motul, Redline, Elf, Mobil 1 Euro Blend, or Royal Purple for motor oils. Castrol Edge also claims to be full synthetic, but I have not read any reviews on it yet on the A4.
what grade of oil do you use on your 1.8t? because in the maintenance manual it says to us a 0w-30 and that seems kinda rare for me to find.
I personally use Amsoil 0w30 (Signature Series) in the winter and 5w40 (Euro Blend) in the summer. It's really about preferance, though. The motor oil I use isn't even Audi approved.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
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