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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

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    This is very easy, and should take a first timer no longer than 30-40min. After that, you should be able to do it in 15 min. When people modify their turbocharger, the stock diverter valve will need to be upgraded to either a Bosch 710n or one of the many aftermarket units. The stock dv is not capable of handling boost pressure above stock settings and will rip. It is not a question of "if", it is a question of "when". In most cases, it does not last more than 2 weeks. The upgrading of the diverter valve is needed even if it is just the stock turbo being flashed/chipped for more pounds of pressure.

    In this DIY, I am servicing my Forge 007 DV. This diverter valve needs to be serviced at least once a year, along with all other Forge diverter valves. Others don't. But this guide will show you how to replace your stock one if necessary.

    On a scale from 1-5 (5 being the hardest), this is a 1

    Tools:

    Flathead screwdriver
    Screw Clamps
    Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease (or any Lithium or Lithium based grease if using servicable dv)
    Clean rag (if cleaning dv)
    Zip Ties

    First, you want to be able to raise the front end of your vehicle. I was doing other work on my car, so I had all 4 corners on jack stands. A Rhino Ramp would work just fine. After you get the front end raised, take off your belly pan. (No pics for removing the belly pan, but it is not that difficult. If this is your first time doing it, you will come to know how easy it is).




    The diverter valve needs to be reached from the bottom of the car. It is located on the passenger's side, attached to the intercooler plumbing. You really can't miss it.


    Loosen the clamps. [note: If it is still the stock unit, pry off the stock clamps just to make the tubes loose enough for the dv to slide off. Apply silicone spray/WD-40 if needed. For the vacuum line, just cut above the clamp and don't even worry about that clamp. That 1/4" of vacuum line will not even be missed.]. After you loosen the clamps, you can slide the dv out. Also remove the vacuum line by removing whatever is clamping it down (I use zip ties for mine). You can loosen the intercooler rubber piping and move it to the side if you need more working room.


    You will be left with this


    If you are just replacing the stock dv with a 710n one or an aftermarket unit which does not need servicing, just reinstall new dv. Use new screw clamps where the OEM ones were and zip tie the vacuum line to the nipple of the dv in place of a clamp. If you need to service your dv, continue........

    If this is the first time you are installing your Forge dv or any other unit which requires servicing, you should grease it up before intitial install. Forge Motors says that you don't need to at first, but that is not true. It will cause you issues in a mater of months from not being properly lubed. You will also need to service your dv at least once a year (I do it twice).

    Here are the spring settings for the Forge DV (use the proper spring):

    Green - 5-15 PSI
    Yellow - 15-23 PSI
    Blue - 23-30 PSI
    Red - 30 + PSI

    Here is what you are working with (I am using the yellow spring)


    If you are servicing your dv, you want to take it apart and wipe the entire unit down with a rag. Now it is time to regrease the unit (for first time installers, the same thing applies here). You want to apply a thin layer of Mobil 1 synthetic grease (a lithium or lithium based grease will work just fine)to the entire inside walls of the dv. Then you would also want to apply the same amount on the outside of the piston of the dv. After that, a very small layer on the top rim of the dv (usually, you can just spread the excess grease after you place the piston back in).


    Now, place everything back together.


    Reinstall the same way you took it out. Use clamps where necessary and zip tie the vacuum line to the nipple of the dv.


    *Disclaimer: Neither I, Audizine nor any of it's members are responsible for any mishaps which may incur with this DIY.
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings gotboost's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    I think you might have a huge oil leak?
    2003 A4 GT2871r 303 AWHP 291 AWTQ- SOLD
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    I was thinking that too, but there is no leak. I checked the oil return line (dry), oil feed line (dry), and there is no oil leaking from the valve cover. There was an oil leak on the back of the block by the half moon dip a while ago, but I fixed that with replcing the gasket. No leak on the block. My thought is it is the Mobil 1 Synthetic grease evaporation residue.

    Just noticed in the pics where the camera flash picked up what my naked eye couldn't. The grease/oil build up has a tint to it that resembles the same color of the Mobil 1 synthetic grease. I may have placed too much grease, but I will continue to do so. It did not have that much grease on it from the factory when Forge states that it does not need to be greased when you first install it. The grease dired up on me, piston could not move, hoses popped off, car stalled on me on the side of the road (luckily, maybe 1/8 mile from my house, so I just walked home) and I was absolutely clueless on what to do (eventually, I figured out it was my dv and the devestation that little bastard dv can cause. but I was clueless). This is when I first purchased my vehcile and have thus learned more about my vehicle, though. Now, I check things periodically before it happens. Well, try to anyways.
    Last edited by Seerlah; 09-23-2009 at 11:47 AM.
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings Fukenfast's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    Thanks for the picture! I have a question just to clarify, the bottom of the diverter valve goes into the tube thats coming down from the engine and the side of the valve goes into the tube (short one coming off the pipe) right? I hope this makes sense, thanks again for the post!

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    If you have a Forge unit, it does not matter. Forge actually says to install it the other way around from how I have it in my pic. When there was a 710n installed (PO had that on there), the side of the dv was installed in the intercooler piping. That is how I installed the Forge unit, but Forge recommend to have it installed the other way around.
    Last edited by Seerlah; 09-22-2009 at 06:17 PM.

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings Fukenfast's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    Cool thanks again! I have a Forge type of diverter valve





    I put it on my car and the check engine light went on a couple months later, I thought it might be the DV so I replaced the stock one and the check engine light was still on. Turns out it was the MAF, so I replaced that. The check engine light is off now, but the DV is making a pshhhh sound. Sounds like I have a BOV on there, so I think I might have put the stock one on backwards. I'm planning on greasing up the forge like one and putting that one back on tomorrow, so I'm just making sure I'm doing it right this time hah. Again thanks a lot!

  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    Are there after market DV's that do not require servicing? What are the symptoms of a DV needing service?

    Thanks

    J

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    I think Forge is the only unit on the market which does require it. Personally, I would go with a Samco one if I were you. GB Thread. If I didn't already have the Forge unit, I would go with that one.

    Not servicing your DV can cause issues. When mine was not greased enough, the dv piston got stuck, would not move, and the pressure made the IC piping pop off. Made me run lean, car cut off, and I was stranded there. Luckily it was maybe 1/4 mile from my house, so I just parked it and walked home. But I had no idea what was the issue, and it was the damn dv not being properly greased. This was a couple months into ownership. And the main reason why I know that Forge statement of not needing to grease your Forge unit upon initial install is straight crap. Another reason why I apply a healthy amount of lubricant on it, now.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings Oceanside's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    yay AWM <3

  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings A4-Achtung's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    ^ AMW!!
    2001.5 B5 A4 QTM - AVIC F700BT Mod'd 3.0 - GIAC-X Tune - Bailey DV36 - 3 in. TestPipe 2.5'' Back- Blacked Out Everything - 6000k DDM HID Headlights And Fogs - Slotted and Drilled Rotors - HAIL DAMAGE!!! -

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Diverter/Bypass Valve (Forge) Removal, Install, and Cleaning for AWM

    ^AWM

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings
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    what lower grill inserts are those?
    01 Audi A4 1.8t AWM Quattro - AWE Boost Gauge, 18" Avus S4 Rims, 8000k HIDs, 3000K HID fog light mod, Pioneer Double DIN, Krauto Interior LED Kit
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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    DIY
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch

  14. #14
    Active Member Two Rings alexvanlewen's Avatar
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    What vacuum line do you use? there is not one attached to the stock so where do i get it from?
    3oh!3 'Ziner

    2000 Audi A4 BEAST5 1.8tqm 20v, APR Stage 2 ECU Tune, FrankenTurbo F21L, FT Manifold, CAI Cone Filter, Forge 007, 034 HFC, B6 Sport 17's, SPEC-D Halo Headlights, Audi 4-Ring Taillights, M3 47" Carbon Fiber Trunk Lip

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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Use 3mm silicone from anywhere. Ebay will do just fine.
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch

  16. #16
    Active Member Two Rings alexvanlewen's Avatar
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    no shit haha i mean what line feeds into that part. Is it from the intake manifold?
    3oh!3 'Ziner

    2000 Audi A4 BEAST5 1.8tqm 20v, APR Stage 2 ECU Tune, FrankenTurbo F21L, FT Manifold, CAI Cone Filter, Forge 007, 034 HFC, B6 Sport 17's, SPEC-D Halo Headlights, Audi 4-Ring Taillights, M3 47" Carbon Fiber Trunk Lip

    Next up: Bumper Lip, 550cc Genesis II's, Volcanic Heat Shield, 3" Exhaust, S4 Skirts, Motoza Hybrid Tune, EVO FMIC

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Oh, yeah. Not sure if you have an n249 valve on the bottom of your intake manifold, but that is where the line to your dv would come from (goes from your IM to n249, then DV). If you don't have one, then directly from the little nipple on the front of your intake manifold. Your FPR uses the other one.
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch

  18. #18
    Active Member Two Rings alexvanlewen's Avatar
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    I do have the N249 with my ATW. I got the hose attached to vacuum nipple, I just need to attach the hose from my IM to the N249. Where can I find a new house and clamp?
    3oh!3 'Ziner

    2000 Audi A4 BEAST5 1.8tqm 20v, APR Stage 2 ECU Tune, FrankenTurbo F21L, FT Manifold, CAI Cone Filter, Forge 007, 034 HFC, B6 Sport 17's, SPEC-D Halo Headlights, Audi 4-Ring Taillights, M3 47" Carbon Fiber Trunk Lip

    Next up: Bumper Lip, 550cc Genesis II's, Volcanic Heat Shield, 3" Exhaust, S4 Skirts, Motoza Hybrid Tune, EVO FMIC



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