Wow, just read through this thread and your brick has become so nasty...lovin all your fab work and the new holset setup. I've always liked those 2.3 motors since my brother had a few turbo 740's years ago. I'm assuming you still have stock internals unless I missed something; if so, how much power can they support?
Wow, just read through this thread and your brick has become so nasty...lovin all your fab work and the new holset setup. I've always liked those 2.3 motors since my brother had a few turbo 740's years ago. I'm assuming you still have stock internals unless I missed something; if so, how much power can they support?
Thanks man! Yah its all stock, um the pistons and crank limmits have never really been found by anyone. There is a guy making 550 on stock pistons im pretty sure the crank is good for whatever. The rods are the weak link there are two different thicknesses 9mm and 13mm the 9mm rods are weak the 13mm rods will get you to around 300 at the wheels. After that you're pushing your luck.
So the engines are pretty beefy a set of rods and you're good to go really.
Went down to davis ca for a volvo meet this weekend picked up a few parts and got a few autocross runs in. Had fun car ran great its running 13/14psi on this holset. Pulls alright. Seems like it should be faster trying to figure out what i want to do about fuel/spark management i think thats my weak link. Also still cuts out at like 5,800rpm
Thats nice and thanks for sharing your progress. I think i met you a while a ago at thunderhill (i was the guy with the '98 V70 T5M (black)). Now i converted over to an S4 Avant but miss the simplicity, style, ease of working on and the big size of my brick. keep us updated with your project!
MS2
Heres a video i took right after i got it running on MS i had barely tuned it and the idle rpm obviously needed to be increased its running MUCH much smoother now but im posting this video so you can see the lexan rear windows i installed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNb-h...1&feature=plcp
Waiting for lines to put this in
Bought a t5 and got a hurst SST shifter, needed some modifying to fit my car more. I also bought a billet flywheel a stage 4 vw 228mm pressureplate (good for 400+ftlbs) and a clutch disk. Need to build a crossmember and have my driveshaft shortened ballanced and i can put this stuff in.
And a fake cat, i can tune my way around emissions with MS so i dont really need a cat. but WA law states i must have one on the car.
And these are high nickle stainless roll correction/quick steer spacers. They bolt between the control arm and strut to correct my control arm angle from going low. This restores the roll angle and fixes the gemometry in the front suspension from being lowered a lot. The arm has different holes for the TRE i can quicken the steering ratio my moving the TRE closer to the strut (ie the pivot point) this will increase over all steering angle as well. Should be good for drifting too! :)
You can see my current control arm angle here. Ill be sure to take some after pictures. Im hoping its level or at least close to level.
Haha thanks man. I have been really busy. Not a lot of time forum surfing anymore haha just figured i would post some update pictures. Been buying parts but havent been installing them. The car still has not passed emissions im hoping next week i can finally get it to pass. After that i can start driving it to work and doing stuff to it after work and on the weekends
Yah i need to re configure my priorities. Cant do anything until i pass emissions so obviously thats first in line then passing the state inspection and finally registration. Once i get that all settled and i can legally drive it again. I need to deal with a major boost creep problem. My data logs slow im nearing 22psi at the top of 3rd When im running no mbc on an 8psi wastegate actuator. I drilled out the hole in the turbine housing and its about is big as the stock wg puck will support. Still creeps so i ordered a 38mm external and ill be building a full 304l schd 10 header. Ill build a new downpipe and i want to run the exhaust out the back while im at it. THen the car will be legal and ill have a steady boost pressure i can spend more time on tuning. My focus will shift to getting the t5 in and finishing up the other projects i have parts for.
got all the ports welded and blended this morning then added the brace down to one of the motor mount bolts.
steel to stainless steel it works!
So i need to do something about this coolant hose i think...
If i have to ill weld a cast aluminum elbow to it but i had some other ideas that would be cheaper and easier that might still work. wondering what you guys think? I have a feeling A is a little safer but would doing something like B work?
Well, it ran. Then it took all the teeth off third again. Im preparing for a wc t5 swap with a billet steel flywheel drilled bolt pattern for VW 228mm pressureplate rated for 400+ ftlbs. Planning on running a full face organic disc sprung hub.
I made an awesome/retarded decision to run the exhaust up through the floor and out the tailgate.
The heat and exhaust fumes where to much to bare. It was extremely loud on the inside. I had to wear ear muffs.
So im patching the holes and running it under the car.
I think it might be time to go 16 valve, no?
The head is really the choke-point of this engine, and after you replace the con rods and run a getrag(mkii supra's a good donor) there is nothing standing in your way to tune it up to 550+(maybe a new rear end). You allready have done everthing else necessary to prep the car for going with the 16v, and clearly have the mechanical know-how to do, so why not?
I was going to do the conversion on my 89 745 tic-m, but I am going to going to go for a blown m3 instead so I have the parts if you want.
-head, no bent valves
-edis-4 with 36-1 gear
If your not interested that's cool, but just wondering why you haven't allready?
I think it might be time to go 16 valve, no?
The head is really the choke-point of this engine, and after you replace the con rods and run a getrag(mkii supra's a good donor) there is nothing standing in your way to tune it up to 550+(maybe a new rear end). You allready have done everthing else necessary to prep the car for going with the 16v, and clearly have the mechanical know-how to do, so why not?
I was going to do the conversion on my 89 745 tic-m, but I am going to going to go for a blown m3 instead so I have the parts if you want.
-head, no bent valves
-edis-4 with 36-1 gear
If your not interested that's cool, but just wondering why you haven't allready?
Simple really. My goal isnt huge whp numbers its to make a fun affordable beater. The head is a restriction but people make 300-350 wheel with it. And in a 2,500lb car on 225s i think that could be pretty fun!
I want to do all the cool 8v bolt ons and see how much power i can possibly squeeze out of one of these engines. Once i bend all the rods ill build a fresh junkyard engine and throw some china rods in it. Next step would be building an 8v head with a nice camshaft. Which i can reach 400+ with supporting mods.
In otherwords im an 8v fanboy and plan on sticking with it until i cant make the power i want with it.
Oh and for a trans i have nearly all the parts gathered for a ford wc t5 swap. Welding the diff will prevent my spidergears from letting loose. My axles might be at risk with bigger softer tires. But im not planning on doing a rearend swap unless its necessary.
Love it man! Makes me miss my Volvo!
Don't know what area you are in but ipd out of Portland, OR has fantastic support and makes great products, shipping is reasonable too.
Anyways, awesome build!
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