SUPPLIES
Hayden Trans-Cooler (part# 242009) $24
2 metal barb connectors $6
2 small screw clamps $2
New steering fluid (large container)$20
3/8 rachet
10mm socket
torx bit set
scissors or box cutter
ramps/jackstands/lift
catch bucket
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-29
1. First, you must raise your car and remove the front bumper. I won't go into this procedure since it's already covered here on Martini's site. This pic below is a pic from A4mods because I forgot to take one on this point. Here you can see the steering cooler circled.
By manhertm, shot with Canon PowerShot A520 at 2009-04-26
2.The first thing to remove is the shroud/duct leading to the intercooler. It can either be tilted out the way or totally removed, like I did. It is anchored by the same bolt for the rebar. Just pull it off the bolt.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
3. You can see where the steering cooler lines lead to. This pic is taken from under the car, where the steering cooler connects to the rubber hoses. The hoses are held in place by one time use hose clamps. The clamps can be remove with a flat head.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
4. Pull the rubber hoses off the steering cooler pipes and grab your catch bucket.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
5. While the steering fluid drains, you can move on the the 10mm bolt pictured here. It secures the steering cooler in place.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
6. There is also a temp sensor attached to the steering cooler, it can be remove by simply pulling it out of the its holder.
By manhertm, shot with Canon PowerShot A520 at 2009-04-26
7. Here is a pic of the OEM steering cooler next the the new Hayden cooler. You can easily see why the Hayden cooler is much superior.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
8. Now, you can prepare the Hayden Trans-cooler.( I won't go into every single detail about the parts included in the Hayden kit, because it's self explanatory in the instructions included.) First place the secure tabs through the cooler were you want them to be. I would suggest at each corner as pictured here. Also now is good time to attach the hoses to the cooler. Cut the supplied hose in half with your scissors or box cutter. Attach both hoses to each pipe on the cooler with the 2 screw clamps supplied in the kit.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
9. Here's a pic from the other side of the cooler, with the cushion pads in place. The sticky side faces out.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
10. Now lay the Hayden cooler aside. For those with a FMIC, you can skip this step, since the most logical place for the new cooler would be in front of your intercooler. The picture below has the 4 torx screws to remove the ac condenser circled. It's good idea to first mark the 4 holes where the tabs on the Hayden cooler will go through the ac condenser. Remove all the screws.
By manhertm, shot with Canon PowerShot A520 at 2009-04-26
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
11. Now holding the ac condenser in place(it's still connected to lines), put the secure tabs on the Hayden cooler through the predetermined holes. I place my cooler at the bottom of the ac condenser and centered. Here a pic of the secure tabs from behind the ac condenser.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
12. After this step, you must now attach the securing connectors that attach to the tabs included in the kit. After the securing connectors are on, cut the excess with a pair of scissors or wire cutters. Now the ac condenser can be screwed back on.
13. With the ac condenser back on and the Hayden cooler in place, run the hoses through the same opening that the OEM cooler hoses when through. Place the the 4 other screw clamps on each hose,(2 for the cooler hoses and 2 for the OEM hoses) Now connect the hoses with the 2 barb connector. Here is a pic with the hose connected. There are only 2 clamps shown here. More on that in a minute.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
14. With all the lines secure, you can now fill the resovoir with new fluid. Fill the fluid to the recommend line and then check for any leaks as you fill. The fluid should recide after a minute or two. Now fill the fluid back to the line again.
By manhertm, shot with iPhone at 2009-04-26
15. Now start you car to let the new steering fluid circulate throught the systems, while turning the steering wheel left and right( not full lock). Check for any noises or leaks. (At this point, I discovered, I need 2 more hose clamps. The pressure of the pumps was too strong with clamps. I had to drive to nearest parts store, which was about a mile away, all while my steering sounded like a howling banshee
.16. After everthing is checked OK with no leaking or noises, you can now attach the temp sensor to a new location. I simply ziptied it to the cooler for now. I'll probably leave it like that until, I get a FMIC, it really doesn't bother me though.
By manhertm, shot with COOLPIX S560 at 2009-04-29
By manhertm, shot with COOLPIX S560 at 2009-04-26
*edit* Don't forget to bleed the system to get all the air out, the procedure can be found here
Sorry for the mostly crappy iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiphone pics.
I'd like to thank Martini for his excellent bumper removal DIY.
Papachristou for the info on where to get the cooler
My mama
and God for lettin' me write these gangster-ass lyrics, oh wait............
MY CAR IS ON AN EBAY BUDGET!! DEUTSCH REIS!
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