Not really. I'm saving up for the engine + all engine building materials. Once I have that, I'll probably pick up the fueling and ICs. I'm still on the fence for the IC situation...FMIC or AWE/ER. Just can't decide.
Also, I want 3" DPs, but just really don't want to spend $1,000, and still want a main cat. Suggestions appreciated ;)
DxC and I will be comparing my VAST RS6s with some chinese ones he has, just to judge quality difference.
so your building the motor? if you need pistons let me know i have a set of stock pistons that are basically brand new and i have a set of new 2.8L forged and coated pistons
Big thanks to jason@AMD.
It's not about what you have, it's about what you give to the community. Let's take on the AZ attitude stereotype, and put it to bed.
so your building the motor? if you need pistons let me know i have a set of stock pistons that are basically brand new and i have a set of new 2.8L forged and coated pistons
Yep, building the motor. All the parts should be alright on this one, except for the heads (maybe). If any of the pistons are burnt or otherwise messed up, sure I'll let you know. I don't need any forged pistons probably... since I'm just doing RS6s and don't plan on going bigger. I might do 2.8 heads if mine are no good, but I'm not sure of the benefits of 2.8 forged pistons for my application.
If doing a fully built engine, what else is necessary besides rods and pistons? So far I was planning on doing just rods, cleaning up the rest of the stock parts, and replacing all of the bearings, etc.
Also - anyone that KNOWS how to build motors and lives around here - feel free to stop by, give advice, and help out, haha. I literally have no idea what I'm doing. It's all for the learning experience.
Updates: Started taking apart the motor. Intake Mani, wiring harness, and drivers side turbo are off. Taking off all of the cooling lines, passenger turbo, and heads soon!
Buying the motor parts this week.
I play on bringing it down to Jake @ DoWerk for machining, balancing, and help with assembly.
Other news:
I am looking for buyers for me VAST RS6 turbos, inlets, and hardware. Totally brand new - just thinking about going BIGGER.
Label everything in bags. It's not necessary when you're just doing a quick job but since you will probly be waiting over a month for parts to arive and the motor to be machined you will forget where things go. Building these motors is a little more difficult than building an LSx, especially when they are in peices for a long time.
Frimmel: i only speak when i have something negative to say.
Grah4m: i lost to a giraffe. be careful out there.
ThirdStrike:leave your feelings at the keyboard
Label everything in bags. It's not necessary when you're just doing a quick job but since you will probly be waiting over a month for parts to arive and the motor to be machined you will forget where things go. Building these motors is a little more difficult than building an LSx, especially when they are in peices for a long time.
Yep - I've been crazy with labeling. I'm taking pictures from several angles of every bolt, numbering them, labeling the bag, etc.
RS6 turbos will be leaving me today. I will be going with some VAST GTs, hoping to make some more power to take better advantage of the built (bottom end) motor.
I have stripped the motor down to the block/rotating assembly and will be bringing it to Jake @ Dowerk soon for machining. A few weeks after that, I'll be joining Jake at the shop for reassembly.
I am picking up engine parts this week. I have already ordered the piston rings, oil pump, and oil pump chain. Plenty more items to get, but that should all happen this week.
Man it was fun taking that motor apart! Everyone that has the opportunity should go for it! Little bit of classic rock on the radio, some nice craft beers, and some 2.7T dis-assembly makes for a nice relaxing evening.
Then
2.7 and 2.8 Heads
Small pile of parts
Pile of hoses
I like this view.
Also, anyone privvy to how to get that main pulley off? It seems like I need to get it by the massive center shaft, but lord knows that I don't have a socket big enough for that.
You just undo the hex bolts around the crankshaft, you don't have to deal with the crankshaft itself (though if you do want to rotate it, I believe it's a 22mm 12 pt socket, but don't quote me on that.) You might have to tap it with a mallet to get it loose, but it should come right off.
** GT2860R-7 S4 Build Log--
LOOKING FOR:
--BROKEN SPIDER HOSES
FOR SALE:
--ULTIMATE B5 S4 LAPTOP (DELL, i5, 8gb RAM, BENTLEY, ETKA, REAL VAG COM CABLE, LOGGING SOFTWARE, TUNER PRO)**
--JHM DELRIN SHIFTER STABILIZER BUSHING (LATE STYLE)**
--RS4 AIRBOX--
--FIKSE FM10-LIGHT WHEELS - 17x9 et55 & 17X8 et57 - WORKS ON AUDI W/ ADAPTER
You just undo the hex bolts around the crankshaft, you don't have to deal with the crankshaft itself (though if you do want to rotate it, I believe it's a 22mm 12 pt socket, but don't quote me on that.) You might have to tap it with a mallet to get it loose, but it should come right off.
Thanks! I loosened those up but it didnt seem to budge. I'll give it a little beating.
That block will clean up real nice. Stripping a motor for the first time is so fun, glad to hear you had a good time. Lemme know when you're wrenching again if you wanna shoot the shit.
Frimmel: i only speak when i have something negative to say.
Grah4m: i lost to a giraffe. be careful out there.
ThirdStrike:leave your feelings at the keyboard
That block will clean up real nice. Stripping a motor for the first time is so fun, glad to hear you had a good time. Lemme know when you're wrenching again if you wanna shoot the shit.
I'm wrenching every day, man! Any time. Me, BostonBlkS4 (Matt) and MikeyB (Mike) hang out and wrench on the cars every once in a while. We just put meth into Mikes car this weekend before I finished up taking the motor apart.
I'll let you know next time I'm doing anything worthwhile. Now that this is basically ready, I'm going to bring it down to Jake (Sat, 6/19) and expect it back on 7/3 or 7/10. So sometime in July I'll start bolting it all back up!
excellent. ill be watching closely!!! do you have any goals?
500whp was the goal...now I'd like to see 550 whp. Lofty, but not unattainable. With Meth, the manifolds, 3" DPs and 2.8 heads I think it should be achievable...
500whp was the goal...now I'd like to see 550 whp. Lofty, but not unattainable. With Meth, the manifolds, 3" DPs and 2.8 heads I think it should be achievable...
Yep. I still expect them to help a bit up top even though they aren't tubular.
I've toyed with the idea of going with 2860s and tubular manifolds, but I really don't want to spend the extra cash building out the top end of my motor. I'd be looking at quite a bit more to do that....hah - you know how much it is...
2560s should be perfect and will hopefully meet the numbers...
VAST was kind enough to give me a set of low mileage OEM valves freshly pulled. These will do nicely once they're all cleaned up:
Random things not picture-worthy:
OEM Bearings:
Stern Firm Mounts:
HUGE thanks to Scotty@Advanced Automation and Prince/Mike @ VAST. Both vendors were EXTREMELY helpful on both helping me decide what to buy AND on price.
Scotty went out of his way to recommend specific products and get the best price possible for me - even ordering parts from overseas AND shipping them 2 day air to get to me on time.
Mike hooked me up with a set of low mileage valves AND they did some pretty fantastic pricing for me. Shipping is always super fast with VAST....
For anyone interested, I created a pretty comprehensive excel spreadsheet for rebuilding motors. It includes just about everything you might need, along with tagging for "must do" if you're rebuilding or not. There are a few pretty sweet pivot charts hooked up to it, too.
I've toyed with the idea of going with 2860s and tubular manifolds, but I really don't want to spend the extra cash building out the top end of my motor. I'd be looking at quite a bit more to do that....hah - you know how much it is...
Those exhaust valves and springs will be enough to rev out your motor to 8000. I don't see a problem with the 2860s.
Frimmel: i only speak when i have something negative to say.
Grah4m: i lost to a giraffe. be careful out there.
ThirdStrike:leave your feelings at the keyboard
It's another grand for those turbos and manifolds. Don't they max out the fuel lines too?
I'd say the $1000 for the bigger turbos is much more of an issue than the fuel lines. You'd be maxing out stock fuel lines around 600whp, but bigger lines are only 200-300 dollars if you get a little creative. Even a full braided stainless setup from the tank to the motor would be under $400.
Obviously all of these "litle" fees add up to a difference of $1000-2000. Ijust didn't want you to feel liek your heads were a limiting factor (although I'm sure you researched enough to know this).
Frimmel: i only speak when i have something negative to say.
Grah4m: i lost to a giraffe. be careful out there.
ThirdStrike:leave your feelings at the keyboard
I'd say the $1000 for the bigger turbos is much more of an issue than the fuel lines. You'd be maxing out stock fuel lines around 600whp, but bigger lines are only 200-300 dollars if you get a little creative. Even a full braided stainless setup from the tank to the motor would be under $400.
Obviously all of these "litle" fees add up to a difference of $1000-2000. Ijust didn't want you to feel liek your heads were a limiting factor (although I'm sure you researched enough to know this).
Ah, I see. Yeah it's not the heads that would stop me. Its the cost. The fuel lens is ne, the pistons are another. Lots f little things add up. I'm very excited for the modified 2560s and I think I will be very happy with them. At this point, I'd rather do what I'm doing right and not have to wait lnger or try t cut a corner.
Originally Posted by AudiSportB5S4
Looking good Rich!
Any expected completion date/month?
Well I have another update soon, but basically the motor is at the shop. It should be done in 2 weeks and the plan is to put it n the car smetime in august...
Off to Jake's it goes! I will be down there with him in around 2 weeks (7/24) for assembly and then to take it home!
Also, while getting ready to go down there, I found an easy way to make 500bhp in the S4 without much work!
Though, I still need to work out how to hook it up to the drivetrain... At any rate, I think this is the closest to being a 911 that my S4 will ever get.
Haha, so who else has put an engine, 2 sets of heads, and a few thousand $$ worth of new engine parts in the trunk of their S4 at once?
off topic but i love those wheels and the stance is great.
Thanks man. Its not normally that low in back. While it would look cooler lower, it's just impractical around here and I already rub in the front when I autoX. I have to get the front fenders rolled...
I couldn't be happier with the wheels. 18 or 19 lbs each and I got them at a ridiculously low price.
Turns out my 2.8 heads were missing the cam caps. The machine shop/guy doing my heads is very adamant about ONLY using the cam caps that come on that particular set of heads, but others (VAST included) suggest that its fine to use the 2.7 cam caps on the 2.8 heads. So, I'm having the shop measure all the tolerances and just make sure that they fit fine. Hopefully it wont be too much of an issue, but it has set me back by at least a week.
Ceramic coating is also going to take longer than anticipated, so it looks like I'll get the parts sometime at the end of Sept. The good news is that as soon as I have them, I'll be ready to get it all in the car!
Anyone have any input on what to do about my spider hose? I have the old style OEM one, which supposedly is prone to breaking. I'd like to fix that problem...plus I should probably have some kind of upgraded oil catch setup.
Turns out my 2.8 heads were missing the cam caps. The machine shop/guy doing my heads is very adamant about ONLY using the cam caps that come on that particular set of heads, but others (VAST included) suggest that its fine to use the 2.7 cam caps on the 2.8 heads. So, I'm having the shop measure all the tolerances and just make sure that they fit fine. Hopefully it wont be too much of an issue, but it has set me back by at least a week.
Ceramic coating is also going to take longer than anticipated, so it looks like I'll get the parts sometime at the end of Sept. The good news is that as soon as I have them, I'll be ready to get it all in the car!
Anyone have any input on what to do about my spider hose? I have the old style OEM one, which supposedly is prone to breaking. I'd like to fix that problem...plus I should probably have some kind of upgraded oil catch setup.
What to do without spending big dollaz?
I would get another set of OEM 2.8 heads unless your going to do a line bore, but either way it is never recommended to use another set of cam caps
I would get another set of OEM 2.8 heads unless your going to do a line bore, but either way it is never recommended to use another set of cam caps
He can sell me a set for $400, but that's a pretty significant cost considering I already spent a few hundred on this set. I dont understand how everyone disagrees on whether or not its OK.
If someone wants my 2.8 heads without cam caps for 2 or $300, then I can consider it.
Sold my 2.8 cams to recoup most of what I spent on those heads, got new heads, machine work done.
Date set to pick up the motor and reassemble it. Second weekend in September.
Last payment sent for GT28R turbos, VAST Manifolds, and Downpipes! Also getting a nice little surprise from VAST that I'm pretty excited about.
Sending payment for clutch today! I'm going with a Southbend Stage IV 6 or 8 puck ceramic unless anyone has a compelling reason not to.
Still need to work out an INEXPENSIVE solution for the PVC system/oil catch can. That's pretty much the last thing I need to work out. Not sure what I'm doing with that...
Fueling will come just a few weeks after install, while I'm still breaking everything in. Until I get that I'll just be on my APR software.
Can anyone recommend a decent inexpensive temporary garage to setup for the motor swap thats happening in around a month?
Sold my 2.8 cams to recoup most of what I spent on those heads, got new heads, machine work done.
Date set to pick up the motor and reassemble it. Second weekend in September.
Last payment sent for GT28R turbos, VAST Manifolds, and Downpipes! Also getting a nice little surprise from VAST that I'm pretty excited about.
Sending payment for clutch today! I'm going with a Southbend Stage IV 6 or 8 puck ceramic unless anyone has a compelling reason not to.
Still need to work out an INEXPENSIVE solution for the PVC system/oil catch can. That's pretty much the last thing I need to work out. Not sure what I'm doing with that...
Fueling will come just a few weeks after install, while I'm still breaking everything in. Until I get that I'll just be on my APR software.
Can anyone recommend a decent inexpensive temporary garage to setup for the motor swap thats happening in around a month?
Any reason to go with the stage 4? I'd do stage 5 and just forget it. i wouldn't risk that clutch not taking the abuse in a year or so and having to pull it all apart again. just go with a stage 5 ceramic 6 puck and call it a day, you'll love it!
as for running on apr software, i'd double check that with mike. i imagine you already did that and since you're not going to get on it during break in it may not be an issue but i wouldn't risk it
Originally Posted by B5stgIII
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