I think mine is a Stage 5+. But it's a little and I emphasize a little, hard for the street. Heavy pedal, grabs low and it's kinda on and off. But only a pussy would complain, or an Old Guy with a bad knee.
If I get a new clutch, I would definitely go Clutch Masters this time. I didn't run into any troubles with my Southbend but I would rather run a puck clutch and everyone seems to that the CM.
Is my clutch going to be able to hold my up-coming setup?
The one you posted? Most likely not. Esp since you launch the car.
Originally Posted by dirtybrd
I think mine is a Stage 5+. But it's a little and I emphasize a little, hard for the street. Heavy pedal, grabs low and it's kinda on and off. But only a pussy would complain, or an Old Guy with a bad knee.
Well... It doesn't matter since your car just sits on jackstands.
Nah don't worry about it dude. I saw you were going spear gun fishing or something lol Not a problem! What time should I call you? I work from 11-9 YOUR time tomorrow.
Nah don't worry about it dude. I saw you were going spear gun fishing or something lol Not a problem! What time should I call you? I work from 11-9 YOUR time tomorrow.
I'll be at the shop from 8 till around noon, whenever you get a chance you know how to get me
AEG crank is garbage honestly (plus they are getting harder to find, therefore value is going up so to properly do a stroker you should use the FSI crank. At ~$800 bucks depending on the source, the extra 100cc comes at pretty good hit to the wallet. 100cc isn't going to make a noticeable difference in either spool or peak power
Then what is the point of going 1.9 vs 1.8 if that 100cc isn't going to make any difference? lol
For extra clearance for the rods, this 100cc isn't going to cost much but the next 100cc is $800.
Yeah I understand the cost part, for you guys its just much cheaper to go 1.9 vs adding the extra stroke to get 2.0. For the 058 its not all that more expensive to go 2.0 since the cranks are cheap.
For the dump I would go down and then under the frame with a slight bend to point it back and down. The longer the better so that its harder for air to get sucked back up into the wg.
I find it funny how everybody is so concerned about Anths build. Some of this energy should but used for those interested to getting their own cars running...
I find it funny how everybody is so concerned about Anths build. Some of this energy should but used for those interested to getting their own cars running...
Car runs perfectly fine, SB clutch just will not handle any torque...not going to bag on SB right now...
I have a ton of maintenance shit to get to next week, all fluids, figure out a intermittent misfire, full detail, repolish wheels, refinish calipers, fix broken seatback, fix broken Bose speaker grill, make new CF pillars, replace peeling window switches and hosing on passenger door, install my new A3 RNS-E knobs.
I am going to have to pay somebody to install my FX850...all of this shit needs to get done while I am home for 9 days, I go under the knife on the 17th of next month...
I find it funny how everybody is so concerned about Anths build. Some of this energy should but used for those interested to getting their own cars running...
For extra clearance for the rods, this 100cc isn't going to cost much but the next 100cc is $800.
Extra clearance for rods? What does that mean? Boring the block/honing costs at least 300, and pistons aren't cheap either... That's why I suggested AEB pistons with new rings, but I digress...
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
The block I bought needed to be bored out either way. And I just wanted to have a little more peace of mind that my rods will clear the cylinder walls on the stock stroke. Necessary- probably not. I wanted to do it anyways. But to shell out $800 for another crank didn't seem necessary. Benefits didn't out-weigh costs there for me.
The block I bought needed to be bored out either way. And I just wanted to have a little more peace of mind that my rods will clear the cylinder walls on the stock stroke. Necessary- probably not. I wanted to do it anyways. But to shell out $800 for another crank didn't seem necessary. Benefits didn't out-weigh costs there for me.
Rods dont come close to the cylinder wall, if they did on a 1.8 crank the rods would completely hit on a 2.0 crank since the rods would be further out at 90 degs. Going 83mm and lower CR increased volume, that will help with the HTA30 since I dont think you will be maxing that turbo on the street on anything less then 30psi.
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