AWP Block
AWP Forged Crank
JE 83mm 8.5:1 Pistons
Integrated Engineering 144x20 Rods
AEB Head
Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves - Single Groove
Supertech SS Nitride Intake Valves - Single Groove
Supertech Springs and Retainers
Cat 3653 Cams
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
ARP Flywheel Bolts
ACL Coated Rod Bearings + .001
ACL Coated Main Bearings + .001
Turbo
Forced Performance HTA3076R, .63 a/r, Polished Compressor Housing, 3" 4 bolt Exhaust
Full Race Tubular Manifold
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Full Race Downpipe
Fifteen52 Custom 3" DP Back Exhaust w/ 3" Splits and Magnaflow 14819 Mufflers
ER Comp FMIC w/ Fifteen52 Custom Hotside Piping
Tial Q BOV
Turbosmart Eboost2 EBC
Ecode GT30 REVO File w/ 750cc Injectors, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, and VR6 MAF
Bosch 040 Fuel Pump
On to the pictures!
First thing to show today was the dirtiest AEB head I have seen in quite some time!
Fresh out of the parts cleaner and after a few minutes with a deck cleaner ... still needing a little bit of love
Dropping the head off the end of the week for the guides and seats to be checked, depending on the outcome it will either be getting some new parts or coming back to start with the install of the new Supertech components!
Stay tuned, I'll update anything and everything as we go!
You can soak the head in diesel for a few hours if you don't have access to a hot tank. The parts washer doesn't do much for cleaning out the oil passages, unless you are soaking it. That head is incredibly dirty LOL!
And Shawn, this is just friendly advice, please don't take it as anything else. You and whoever can have your own issues, but lets not start that.
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
You can soak the head in diesel for a few hours if you don't have access to a hot tank. The parts washer doesn't do much for cleaning out the oil passages, unless you are soaking it. That head is incredibly dirty LOL!
And Shawn, this is just friendly advice, please don't take it as anything else. You and whoever can have your own issues, but lets not start that.
The machine shop is going to hot tank it for me, I cleaned what I could of it. It really doesn't look bad too bad now in person and the ports/passages are pretty clean, I'm just anal so it will be getting some more love. Wasn't aware of the diesel trick, thanks for the heads up
The machine shop is going to hot tank it for me, I cleaned what I could of it. It really doesn't look bad too bad now in person and the ports/passages are pretty clean, I'm just anal so it will be getting some more love. Wasn't aware of the diesel trick, thanks for the heads up
How'd the journal area of the cam caps look?
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
The oil passages in the cam caps are perfect, weren't even gummed up before it went in the parts washer. The seating surfaces are good as well, no nicks, scars, or markings of any kind
The oil passages in the cam caps are perfect, weren't even gummed up before it went in the parts washer. The seating surfaces are good as well, no nicks, scars, or markings of any kind
thats good. just needs a cleaning. mine looked pretty bad too, but the hot tank and sand blasting made it look brand spankin new.
thats good. just needs a cleaning. mine looked pretty bad too, but the hot tank and sand blasting made it look brand spankin new.
subscribed.
Heads should NOT be bead blasted with any sort of media other than baking soda. Everything else gets into the tiny passages in the head and is near impossible to get all of it out. There is actually a head at my machine shop right now from a shop to be unnamed in NY, it was bead blasted and guess what happened
You may have gotten away lucky, but I very high suggest again blasting a head unless it's soda (in which case you just dunk the head in water).
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
Heads should NOT be bead blasted with any sort of media other than baking soda. Everything else gets into the tiny passages in the head and is near impossible to get all of it out. There is actually a head at my machine shop right now from a shop to be unnamed in NY, it was bead blasted and guess what happened
You may have gotten away lucky, but I very high suggest again blasting a head unless it's soda (in which case you just dunk the head in water).
I don't know exactly what they used, it could have been baking soda (it was really white)
I only saw them doing it on another head, they could have just hot tanked mine since it didn't have any sludge build up, only discoloration.
EDIT: i just pulled out my file w/ all my receipts, and it only lists [hot tank, decking, valve job].
Last edited by A4natomical; 06-16-2009 at 04:05 PM.
I don't know exactly what they used, it could have been baking soda (it was really white)
I only saw them doing it on another head, they could have just hot tanked mine since it didn't have any sludge build up, only discoloration.
EDIT: i just pulled out my file w/ all my receipts, and it only lists [hot tank, decking, valve job].
AWP Block
AWP Forged Crank
JE 83mm 8.5:1 Pistons
Integrated Engineering 144x20 Rods
AEB Head
Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves - Single Groove
Supertech SS Nitride Intake Valves - Single Groove
Supertech Springs and Retainers
Cat 3653 Cams
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
ARP Flywheel Bolts
ACL Coated Rod Bearings + .001
ACL Coated Main Bearings + .001
Turbo
Forced Performance HTA3076R, .63 a/r, Polished Compressor Housing, 3" 4 bolt Exhaust
Full Race Tubular Manifold
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Full Race Downpipe
Fifteen52 Custom 3" DP Back Exhaust w/ 3" Splits and Magnaflow 14819 Mufflers
ER Comp FMIC w/ Fifteen52 Custom Hotside Piping
Tial Q BOV
Turbosmart Eboost2 EBC
Ecode GT30 REVO File w/ 750cc Injectors, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, and VR6 MAF
Bosch 040 Fuel Pump
Ok a few things
1. BADASS Build, no rock was left unturned, looks better than mine
2. Why did you do main studs? Just because?
3. Full Race doesn't make a DP for the B6 (or they didn't used to), do you mean an 034 downpipe?
4. Why the ER Comp? Its way overpriced and IMO too small for this setup
5. Are you looking into other tuning options?
6. If the Ecode pump flows so much more than the Bosch 040, why bother with the Bosch pump?
7. Rerouting the WG or dumping it?
8. Why no V-band out on the 30R?
1. BADASS Build, no rock was left unturned, looks better than mine
2. Why did you do main studs? Just because?
3. Full Race doesn't make a DP for the B6 (or they didn't used to), do you mean an 034 downpipe?
4. Why the ER Comp? Its way overpriced and IMO too small for this setup
5. Are you looking into other tuning options?
6. If the Ecode pump flows so much more than the Bosch 040, why bother with the Bosch pump?
7. Rerouting the WG or dumping it?
8. Why no V-band out on the 30R?
1. Do you feel better now about what Anthony is building?
2. Just because, not too much more than OEM main bolts so why not
3. This I don't know, Greg is supplying the Full Race products for the build, he knows what we need.
4. Has t fit under the stock sport bumper, absolutely nothing bigger will fit
5. The Ecode GT30 file should be more than sufficient
6. Again Greg and Ecode are handling the tuning/fueling
7. Open dump
8. +$175 for V-Band And the downpipe is only available in 4 bolt
1. BADASS Build, no rock was left unturned, looks better than mine
2. Why did you do main studs? Just because?
3. Full Race doesn't make a DP for the B6 (or they didn't used to), do you mean an 034 downpipe?
4. Why the ER Comp? Its way overpriced and IMO too small for this setup
5. Are you looking into other tuning options?
6. If the Ecode pump flows so much more than the Bosch 040, why bother with the Bosch pump?
7. Rerouting the WG or dumping it?
8. Why no V-band out on the 30R?
1. Thanks
2. Shawn's the man to ask. He suggested it and I said why not!
3. But about the Full Race DP, they make one for the B6, it's on their website I believe.
4. I don't think it'll be too small and I'm running stock, non-USP front so I needed something to fit behind there.
5. In the future, maybe. We'll see how the new Eurocode file does.
6. That's what we are going to be doing. I just need to talk to David or Greg about ordering the parts now.
7. Open
8. Full Race DP is 4 bolt.
1. Do you feel better now about what Anthony is building?
2. Just because, not too much more than OEM main bolts so why not
3. This I don't know, Greg is supplying the Full Race products for the build, he knows what we need.
4. Has t fit under the stock sport bumper, absolutely nothing bigger will fit
5. The Ecode GT30 file should be more than sufficient
6. Again Greg and Ecode are handling the tuning/fueling
7. Open dump
8. +$175 for V-Band And the downpipe is only available in 4 bolt
And you're surprised about that? You've been a pleasure to work with on getting a parts list together and getting the ball rolling on the build, I wish every customer made it as easy as you have
1. BADASS Build, no rock was left unturned, looks better than mine
2. Why did you do main studs? Just because?
3. Full Race doesn't make a DP for the B6 (or they didn't used to), do you mean an 034 downpipe? 4. Why the ER Comp? Its way overpriced and IMO too small for this setup
5. Are you looking into other tuning options?
6. If the Ecode pump flows so much more than the Bosch 040, why bother with the Bosch pump?
7. Rerouting the WG or dumping it?
8. Why no V-band out on the 30R?
is that why you chose that monster i saw today at RAI? LOL that thing was HUGE!!!
1. Do you feel better now about what Anthony is building?
2. Just because, not too much more than OEM main bolts so why not
3. This I don't know, Greg is supplying the Full Race products for the build, he knows what we need.
4. Has t fit under the stock sport bumper, absolutely nothing bigger will fit
5. The Ecode GT30 file should be more than sufficient
6. Again Greg and Ecode are handling the tuning/fueling
7. Open dump
8. +$175 for V-Band And the downpipe is only available in 4 bolt
I love how secretive you guys were trying to be. "Whose going 30R? are you buying it?" lol You love your Revo Shawn, hopefully do the trick
I love how secretive you guys were trying to be. You love your Revo Shawn lol, hopefully do the trick
It wasn't a secret, we we're just trying to get together the finalized hardware that met Anthony's requirements for both fitment and cost but included everything that was needed (without a ton of overkill)
I love how secretive you guys were trying to be. You love your Revo Shawn lol, hopefully do the trick
I just didn't want it to be a "My 30 series build thread, here's my idea, I may come through with it, I may not" because I wasn't 100% sure I was going to do the turbo too. It's A LOOOT of money. And you know that more than anyone else here since you're going through it yourself.
But this is something I REALLY want to do with my car and I'm glad that Shawn's helping me with it because I wouldn't have had the slightest clue on some of this stuff. I've already learned SO MUCH by just pulling the motor myself.
Dumb question probably, but why not go with a full 2.0 instead of the 1.9?
AEG crank is garbage honestly (plus they are getting harder to find, therefore value is going up so to properly do a stroker you should use the FSI crank. At ~$800 bucks depending on the source, the extra 100cc comes at pretty good hit to the wallet. 100cc isn't going to make a noticeable difference in either spool or peak power
The AEG crank has been used in many engines that see double the power this engine will have. Nobody even knows what they can handle because none have broke yet even with engines running 600+whp.
~David~
I can help you with your 1.8t work (timing belts, etc)
2.0 Billet PTE 5857 A4
Those who say it can't be done should get out of the way of those who are doing it.
119mph traps w/ 437whp/392wtq dyno jet power on 93 octane and washer fluid injection
527whp/576wtq White Pano E55 AMG 11.69@120mph on street tires
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Originally Posted by 317ssayzarc
but 1 of 150 
. It will look good when it comes out of the hot tank and gets resurfaced.
And the downpipe is only available in 4 bolt
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